Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

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supakat
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by supakat »

supakat wrote:My went to throw his up and the passenger you can get a nut and bolt but driverside no go. I have xcessive plate and I have all holes with brackets to use. He said the driver side bolt to block from adapter plate pulled out and damaged threads.
He put a nut and bolt to lock down the plate to motor and issue resolved. Not sure if the others had the same issue.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

duncan351 wrote:
adamky wrote:I've got the Dakota speed signal converter. Took a while to figure out the correct settings to use, but now it's dead on, verified by GPS
Hey Adamky can you share with us your how you set your Dakota converter and your settings if you don't mind?
Sorry, I just now saw this. I'm sure you've figured it out by now, but if not, see the bottom of this post: viewtopic.php?p=522799#p522799
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

Just some feedback on the Z32 swap. Don't use any other shifter except stock or a Z1 short shifter. NIGHT & DAY difference on Z1 and Mazworx or ebay short shifters. They are straight up terrible. Z1 well worth the money and doesn't rattle. As for using the Dakota Digital SGi-5 you want to use Output 1 and when calibrating the speedometer you must hold the Down or Up button down while driving and you can watch you speedometer need slow down or speed up to get your speedo calibrated. Also there are two different Red/Yellow wires. You want to use the wire that is grounded as that is the output from the sensor before it goes through the cluster. Using Output 3 only got me within 6-7mph but couldn't get any closer. Output 1 is the actual output that you can fully calibrate. The others have a fixed output and it will get you close but to be exact just use 1 and be good.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

I hate to bring back an old thread however I am having the same problem as BoBack with my Z32 Mazworx swap. My clutch pedal does the EXACT same thing as BoBack. I'm starting to wonder if the Z32 tranny swap has a clearance issue BUT I'm not sure about that because If I turn the boost down to 14psi I do not have this problem. Its definitely a hp issue which equates to more heat being produced then you throw in the variable of longer gears compared to stock tranny. Anyone figure out a fix?
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

Do you have the trans-to-engine brackets installed?
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

Yes, both of them. Just had to drill new hole on driver side bracket. Passenger side bolted right up.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

I'm running the Xcessive oil pan which prevents me from using the brackets. I was thinking of cutting off that part of the pan that bolts to the trans and putting the brackets back on, but clearly that isn't the issue, so I guess I won't bother.

Reading back through the thread, you weren't having this issue before. Has anything changed in the drivetrain between now and then? Or is power the only difference?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

It's load problem. So gearing and horse power are the contributing factors. I've thought about the problem and working on a solution when I get a chance. I will report back when get everything fabricated together
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

I'm curious what your idea is..?
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

I know this is an old post but this is the most appropriate place to post the clutch hydraulic problems for high powered KA's. So here is my fix to the clutch pedal problem.

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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by supakat »

Hmmm...good idea. I go through quite a bit of slave cylinders. Wonder if this will fix my issue.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

So the issue is with the pedal itself? Where did you get the spring?


supakat wrote:Hmmm...good idea. I go through quite a bit of slave cylinders. Wonder if this will fix my issue.
How many have you gone through? I've been on the same Nismo slave cylinder for over 6 years now.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by supakat »

About one every 1.5 years. Cheapo $16 autozone reman ****. I wanted to get a nismo one but the price spiked up so bad, But if lasted 6byears, worth the investment.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

I just run factory Nissan Slave. I have seen too many people with trouble out of the cheapo's. I refuse to spend the money they want for a Nismo. From what I can tell the problem is hydraulic. As stated before at high power levels (Above) in 3rd and 4th gear on a Z32 tranny these are long pulls. The pedal will start dropping to the floor just as Boback described. At first I thought it was a unique problem go him. Then I did my upgrades and making more power and experienced the exact same problem. What I did figure out was if I kept my foot under the pedal not allow it to fall during these pulls my clutch worked perfectly. If I didn't then you have to pump the pedal to get the pedal to come back to normal position.This kit is actually designed for the Vette clutch pedal. I had to add 1/4" thick piece of metal plate (its very small) to use as a shim to place between the "U" that goes around the pedal and the set screw. Also I drilled a small hole on the edge where the spring is hooking through in the picture under the dash. I needed a 90* drill to pull this off at least for me. Its very simple and easy. With this installed there is still smooth engagement and disengagement. The only difference is the pedal a little more firm.
Here is the link where I bought the kit http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L36 ... 4i45zVZrIU
Like I said "You have to add a 1/4" thick shim to work on the 240 clutch perfectly the keep the "U" square. The U is just too big to use without it and expect it to work perfectly in my opinion.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

At what power level did it start to happen, approximately? You made 530 or so whp for years without issue, correct?
Excellent work figuring this out! I would have never guessed that this was the fix.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

Correct. At 530 WHP never experienced the issue. At 599whp on the street I had the problem. I also believe the longer gearing of the z32 Tranny is a contributing factor along with my 3.69 diff.
adamky wrote:At what power level did it start to happen, approximately? You made 530 or so whp for years without issue, correct?
Excellent work figuring this out! I would have never guessed that this was the fix.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

duncan351 wrote:As for using the Dakota Digital SGi-5 you want to use Output 1 and when calibrating the speedometer you must hold the Down or Up button down while driving and you can watch you speedometer need slow down or speed up to get your speedo calibrated. Also there are two different Red/Yellow wires. You want to use the wire that is grounded as that is the output from the sensor before it goes through the cluster. Using Output 3 only got me within 6-7mph but couldn't get any closer. Output 1 is the actual output that you can fully calibrate. The others have a fixed output and it will get you close but to be exact just use 1 and be good.
Are you running a stock diff with 4.08 ring and pinion? Output 3 was almost dead on for me.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

No, I'm on 3.69 ring
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by adamky »

Ok, just checking. The output wire came out when I was putting the dash back together today, so I was trying to figure out how I had it setup before. I didn't realize that output 1 was the only one that could be adjusted properly.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by s14nep »

I had issues with my pedal sinking in on me. For some weird reason i completely removed the larger hard line that goes to the slave cylinder from the small hard line from the clutch master cylinder and just hooked up the slave dirrect to the smaller hard line and i was able to fix my issue. My car was automatic so i dont know if that helps.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by TreadSlayer »

Sorry to bring back from the dead. How did y’all modify the crossmember?

Attempting to install the Mazworx swap but their transmission crossmember ain’t lining up. I’ve been able to get 3 bolts in with a great amount of struggle (everything loose and supported the engine with a hoist) but the 4th bolt is way off.

When I called Mazworx they said they’re kit is perfect and to not mess with the alignment
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by duncan351 »

So are you running a actual Mazworx kit( not a knock off) & did Mazworx do the machine work on the Z32 bell housing? Mazworx is correct I've done multiple cars over the years and never had an issue unless the car was in a bad wreck also make sure your engine mounts are on the correct side. There is a Right and left. If the aren't oriented correctly that will throw the offset off.
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by TreadSlayer »

Yea I sent my bellhousing in and all that a couple years ago. Couldn't line it up then, can’t line it up now. I believe the engine mounts and brackets are on correctly. Some other people mention the same issue in this thread. Was hoping someone can share what worked to make the trans bracket mount up flush and aligned before I go hack up this mazworx crossmember

Defworx sells a trans mount bracket that fits any trans to s-chassis. Makes me think I could drill a few slots on the same plane as the existing bolt holes
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by TreadSlayer »

Got er in. Drilled a hole on the side of the bracket. Bolted other sides in and ratchet strapped that bi*ch to my rear subframe. Hope she’s straight. Thank you Duncan for the response🙏
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Re: Mazworx z32 trans swap users help needed.

Post by importdude »

As a reference
Its most likely your engine mounts Its suppose to be offset.
If you have any mounts that are straight thread from bottom to top that will make you not line up. Also if you put the wrong sided offset
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