Wideband wiring into megasquirt DIYPNP?

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mattheripper
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Wideband wiring into megasquirt DIYPNP?

Post by mattheripper »

What I"m wondering is can I wire everything from my wideband controller (Innovate LC1) to the DIYPNP? Like can I take 12V switched power from the break out board? Use GRD for both grounds on the LC1 instead of running them straight to the block? And obviously the analog output goes to the O2 Sensor pin. The grounds I can just ground to the block unless it makes no difference going through the ecu. But I really don't want to find a 12V switched source and then splice into it. Any suggestions out there would be awesome. Thanks in advance and I did try to search for the answer first.
R32 KA24DET HE341 MEGASQUIRT DIYPNP S13 suspension 18x10/12
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wheelman
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Post by wheelman »

Its best if you don't try to pull the 12V source from the ECU, the sensor heater can pull a lot of current which the ECU may not be able to handle. It's also better to run the grounds directly to the block, that way there is the least amount of resistance that can cause a bias in the readings from the sensor.
Wheelman

1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.

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mattheripper
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Post by mattheripper »

Okay perfect reply wheelman. What do you suggest using for the 12volt source? Or should I just find something with the volt meter? Also just for curiosity what ground is best? I was looking at the area at the top back of the head above the rear most exhaust manifold bolt, looks like I have 2 ecu harness grounds there anyway. Thanks a ton dude.
R32 KA24DET HE341 MEGASQUIRT DIYPNP S13 suspension 18x10/12
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wheelman
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Post by wheelman »

mattheripper wrote:Okay perfect reply wheelman. What do you suggest using for the 12volt source? Or should I just find something with the volt meter? Also just for curiosity what ground is best? I was looking at the area at the top back of the head above the rear most exhaust manifold bolt, looks like I have 2 ecu harness grounds there anyway. Thanks a ton dude.
Just find a 12V source thats hot in run and crank. Those ground spots are the exact locations I used.
Wheelman

1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.

DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
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airman
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Post by airman »

I used the 75A main engine source for my LC1. Plenty of power and it turns on with the key.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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mattheripper
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Post by mattheripper »

Where is that exactly airman? Thanks guys.
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airman
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Post by airman »

Let's see - it runs through the main harness. Maybe an 8ga white wire or something of that size. It supplies the 12V to the MAF, coil, other sensors, etc.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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mattheripper
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Post by mattheripper »

Got my clutch in this weekend and finally got most of my wiring for this layed out. Just one question really. Do/can I give both the megasquirt diypnp ecu and db-16 gauge the analog out 2 signal via the brown wire? The diagram on the LC-1 manual says to give ecu the brown wire (output 2 wideband signal) and give the gauge yellow wire (output 1 narrowband signal). However the DB-16 guage instructions say to take the analog 2 signal from brown..
I'd like to do it via the diagram and then I use up all the wires and don't have to tape it up to keep it safe. And I remember reading that you can change the settings on the analog out 1 to have the wideband signal. Thanks for the help.
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airman
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Post by airman »

I'm fairly certain that if you are using a standalone, you don't need to hook up the narrowband - the ECU won't use it. At least I didn't need it for my MSPNP2 / LC1 setup.

The yellow/brown wire can be customized using the LC1 software. I forgot what it's called, but you can customize the outputs/scale/etc. If I remember correctly, I had set both outputs to be wideband 0-5V. If I didn't do it that way, I would have shared the connection between gauge and ECU on one wire - but I don't think I would have done it that way.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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mattheripper
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Post by mattheripper »

Thanks airman. Yeah I'd rather my standalone have it's own dedicated wideband signal wire. And have the gauge on that separate wire, as that's secondary in importance in my eyes.
R32 KA24DET HE341 MEGASQUIRT DIYPNP S13 suspension 18x10/12
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wheelman
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Post by wheelman »

I wired them up separately just to avoid any possible electronic interference between the gauge and the ECU. Airman is correct, the software provided with the LC1 can be used to setup both outputs exactly like you want them. You can even setup one with immediate response and the other with a smoothed response. I had mine setup that way for a while but changed them to be identical, made it easier to compare what TunerStudio was reporting to the gauge readout.
Wheelman

1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.

DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
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