gt32 @ 14psi on a Mustang Dyno

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oes
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gt32 @ 14psi on a Mustang Dyno

Post by oes »

Well took my car to get it tuned on high boost this week and it of course didn't work out so well. The most boost achieved successfully was 14psi which made 304whp and 298tq.

Once it was turned up to 17-18psi, it seemed like the spark was starting to blow out around 5k. Also had some weird noise coming from the dump tube that the tuner said he's never heard before. It was triggering the knock sensor which was throwing everything off, so i was unable to get a tune for high boost done.

I am now looking into all of my problems.

- AEM wideband gauge and AEM EMS read two different AFR. The tuners dyno read in between both of my readings.

- Figure out why its blowing spark out on high boost. (stock ignition, taylor wires)

- Find the noise setting the knock off!

My setup:
gt32
65lb injectors
aem ems
stock ignition
etc
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Post by ka24detsx »

The stock ignition is fine unless your wires are toast for some odd reason. What are you plugs gapped at? I would go with .028 for 17-18lbs..
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Post by oes »

They are gapped at .025.

BKR7E's too btw.
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Post by pr0digy1 »

At 14psi those are some nice numbers for a mustang dyno. Can you post your graphs?

Is GT32 much bigger than T3/T04e 50trim? It would be hard to hit those numbers with T3/T04.
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Post by ka24detsx »

oops..wrong thread
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Post by halftherotatingmasska »

I had that same problem syncing the aem a/f with the uego a/f.

Some things to check....

- Make sure your Uego Wideband "white wire", the o2 signal wire, is wired correctly into the aem...
- Make sure you leave your stock o2 sensor Unplugged.
- In AemPro, go to : Configure > Untis, and make sure you have "Gasoline" selected as your AFR units.
- Use the AemPro "O2 sensor wizard", to make sure you are setup for the correct O2 Sensor.
- Check ALL of your grounds, especially Engine to Chassis grounds, I've seen them do some funky things....

Keep us Updated.

Good Luck.

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Powered by a 57 trim, strapped to a JGS Manifold, and controlled by an AEM EMS. ~ 312 whp 316 ft. lbs. @ 13psi.... DIY is the best way to go!
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Post by oes »

I will see if the tuner can send me the dyno graph so I can post it. I don't have a scanner :(
halftherotatingmasska wrote:I had that same problem syncing the aem a/f with the uego a/f.

Some things to check....

- Make sure your Uego Wideband "white wire", the o2 signal wire, is wired correctly into the aem...
- Make sure you leave your stock o2 sensor Unplugged.
- In AemPro, go to : Configure > Untis, and make sure you have "Gasoline" selected as your AFR units.
- Use the AemPro "O2 sensor wizard", to make sure you are setup for the correct O2 Sensor.
- Check ALL of your grounds, especially Engine to Chassis grounds, I've seen them do some funky things..

By white wire being correctly wired do you mean into the right pin?

My stock O2 sensor plug is still on the car and dangling around my master cylinder. Would that constitute as being plugged in? :)

The AFR Units is set to the correct thing for sure.

In the wizard, it is set the AEM (Gauge). I have always assumed that was right?

Will double check all grounds, especially ECU grounds.
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Post by rn240sx »

Im running BKR7E's also gapped at 28 and i push 22-23 psi with no blow out. Stock distributor, oem nissan wires.
Is GT32 much bigger than T3/T04e 50trim? It would be hard to hit those numbers with T3/T04
AFAIK.....they are about the same, but im not the pro here on turbo's... GT32 is just much more $$$
But if u ask me, 304 on 14 lbs is kinda low especially when most people with that size turbo out there are putting down ~400+ whp on 18-22 lbs... as well as on the T04E
Another thing, there are MANY T04's... T04B (smalllest & what i have now), T04E, T04R & T04S...
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Post by pr0digy1 »

rn240sx wrote:Im running BKR7E's also gapped at 28 and i push 22-23 psi with no blow out. Stock distributor, oem nissan wires.
Is GT32 much bigger than T3/T04e 50trim? It would be hard to hit those numbers with T3/T04
AFAIK.....they are about the same, but im not the pro here on turbo's... GT32 is just much more $$$
But if u ask me, 304 on 14 lbs is kinda low especially when most people with that size turbo out there are putting down ~400+ whp on 18-22 lbs... as well as on the T04E
Another thing, there are MANY T04's... T04B (smalllest & what i have now), T04E, T04R & T04S...
many ppl do put down those numbers but on dynojet dyno which reads quite a bit higher than mustang dyno
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Post by rn240sx »

pr0digy1 wrote:many ppl do put down those numbers but on dynojet dyno which reads quite a bit higher than mustang dyno
im not sure what dyno their on, but all i know is that those r the #'s they r putting down.. So what is the difference # wise between the 2 dyno's....?? The last time i dynoed was 2 yrs ago and it was on a dynomite.... not sure how accurate those r....
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Post by turbo240ka24det »

rn240sx wrote: So what is the difference # wise between the 2 dyno's....?? ...
copy and paste from a G35 forum, pretty simple explanation:

Dynojet
The Dynojet chassis dyno is referred to as an inertia-type dynamometer, because large drums provide an inertial load to the drivetrain instead of a friction brake. The working end of the Dynojet includes two 48-inch diameter drums that are mostly below the surface and driven by the vehicle's drive wheels. In the photos of the Dynojet, notice how the rear wheels are centered on the drums and there is one drum per wheel. This will become important later.
The vehicle is typically run in the transmission gear closest to 1:1 (Forth gear for manuals and Third gear for automatics) to or a variable load that maintains a preset engine rpm or vehicle speed. This feature is ideal for forcing the vehicle to operate at certain loads for tuning. The Dynojet can also measure air/fuel ratio while testing.


Mustang
The Mustang chassis dyno uses an Inertia load as well as an eddycurrent brake load to simulate the "actual" load (combined aerodynamic plus rolling frictional load) that the vehicle would experience when in motion. Notice in the photos how the rear wheels sit between two smaller 10.7-inch diameter rollers. There has been some discussion about the tires getting "pinched" between the rollers and creating more rolling friction, but no substantial evidence of this could be found. However, Mustang has a dyno (MD-1750) with a single 50-inch diameter roller per wheel that alleviates the wheel-pinch concerns. The internals of the Mustang dyno are composed of an eddy current brake to provide a variable load and an inertial disc to provide a fixed load. Mustang claims because its dyno loads the vehicle as it would be on the road, you can perform 0-60 mph, 0-100 mph, and quarter-mile measurements on its chassis dyno. Speed Nation has obtained quarter mile times within 0.1 second of actual runs at the track. We're not sure how the launch dynamics are simulated on the Mustang dyno, which
includes weight transfer, acceleration, jerk (the derivative of acceleration - how fast the acceleration occurs) and some other variables. The Mustang dyno can also measure the air/fuel ratio while testing.



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Post by adamky »

pr0digy1 wrote: So what is the difference # wise between the 2 dyno's....??

The conversion factor I hear tossed around all the time is 18%.
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Post by ka24detsx »

whoa whoa whoa its definitely not 18%... try 5-10% tops..
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Post by adamky »

ka24detsx wrote:whoa whoa whoa its definitely not 18%... try 5-10% tops..

WHOA WHOA WHOA WHOA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


SOrry, I just wanted to do that too. You are correct. The 18% factor was told to me by a local dyno shop, but I checked and it turns out they have a Dyno Dynamics dyno. ANd apparently, those read even lower than a Mustang dyno, hence the 18%.

Differences between Mustang dyno and Dynojet is said to be around 11-12%. Sorry for the confusion.
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Post by ka24detsx »

why do people give a flying **** what the numbers are between one dyno and another?? mustangs are far better tuning tools but people have to be sure to post the equivalent dynojet numbers for what reason? you made 300whp who cares.. i made 330whp on a mustang @ 13 lbs for reference so sure its a little low..but dont do the whole conversion crap just stick with the same dyno for consistency... go back over your setup and when you've cleared everything up go back and dyno and leave it at that..
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Post by oes »

And for those who care;
my initial tune was done on a dynojet

@ 9psi I made 267whp/251wtq on the dynojet.

Baseline on the mustang dyno at 9psi put down 255whp/251tq

*shrug*
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Post by ka24detsx »

sorry for my rant earlier but were having a similar discussion on my local board and i cant figure out why people make such a big deal about it.. if people dont get the numbers they wanted on a mustang dyno they blame it on how it reads lower and try and play it off like that.. a dyno is a tuning tool and each will read differently so use as such.. dont bounce around from one dyno to the next looking for an extra 20whp to make you feel better about your setup.. all ive ever done is make sure i stay on the same exact dyno in between mods to see what kind of gains I made.. sure i could go over to a dynojet and make slightly higher numbers but for what purpose?
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Post by oes »

I changed tuners/dynos because the first one I had was a douchebag. lol
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Post by rn240sx »

for what it means, the last time i dynoed it was on a dynoMITE, which "according" to the owner was more accurate than a mustang & dynojet...
and i agree with some above statements.. the difference is prob ~20 whp, which isnt much to brag nor argue about. and going from one dyno to another to see 20 more whp is just rediculous and ignorance.
i can understand a 75whp difference between dynos but then we would all sit here and say there is something wrong and something needs to be done...
all my concern now is getting rid of my puny turbo and getting something larger...
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Post by smracing »

There is nothing better than a mustang dyno. It allows you to see things that other dyno's do not. It works very well for figuring out which convertor you need. There are some downsides for using it on my drag car. The minimuim laod the dyno can apply is 2500lbs. My car is around 2000. This means a dyno pull is mucher harder on the motor and drivetrain than a pass down the strip is.
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