subframe upgrade
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subframe upgrade
Has anyone done subframe bushings, control arms, traction bars etc to there subframe in a S13 and seen improvement in there 60ft or et/trap. I'm considering doing it just would like to know if its worth the $300-$500 and how much I can pick up. Im doing 1.47 60ft but the camber is bad the top of the tire goes inward and at the top end the back goes side to side petty dangerous at 130+mph. Any brand to invest in megan, xcessive etc. Thanks guys[/i][/u]
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What tires are you running all around?
2012 - S14 KA, Nismotronic, GTi-R T28 12psi, Meth, PSM HMIC, DW550cc, N62, S15 HLSD, Spec 3, Fidanza = 12.4 @ 110
2013 - 9.0 Wiseco/Manley, Nismotronic, GT2876R 23psi, Meth, PSM HMIC, 850cc, N62, S15 HLSD, Z32 Spec 3, D21 Fidanza = ??.? @ ??? 440whp/380wtq
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I'm going to be doing subframe bushings and all rear bushings and ruca for alignment purposes to get more tire contact.I started getting bad wheel hop before I started my new build that's why I'm doing bushings to hopefully eliminate it.are you running bias ply tires you may be feeling the bias ply wobble up top at high speed.1.47 is a great 60 ft wiyh a manual trans I think I read somewhere that the lowest in a s13 was 1.3x.
New turbo setup build in progress-11mm headstuds/cometic head gasket/jwt cam gears added,prec. 6266,gato mani,prec.46mm wg,bigger fmic,mspnp2,z32 trans,spec twin,q45 rear,full energy bushings. Still need injectors,and a few other small things
Old setup-ka24de-wiseco 9:1 pistons,eagle rods,arp studs,jwt s1 cams,brian crower springs and retainers,jgs log mani,t3 57trim .63 a/r,tomei 740cc,38mm turbonetics evolution wastegate,synapse bov,ebay fmic,nistune,j30 lsd.5 speed swap,z32 brakes F&R.
Old setup-ka24de-wiseco 9:1 pistons,eagle rods,arp studs,jwt s1 cams,brian crower springs and retainers,jgs log mani,t3 57trim .63 a/r,tomei 740cc,38mm turbonetics evolution wastegate,synapse bov,ebay fmic,nistune,j30 lsd.5 speed swap,z32 brakes F&R.
- wheelman
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I don't drag race so take what I say with a bit of a grain of salt but here are some thoughts.
1. The S13 rear end has a lot of anti-squat built into it's geometry, you might consider swapping in an S14 rear subframe.
2. If you move the S13 subframe relative the body space it further away, not closer. Moving the subframe closer to the body increases the anti-squat geometry.
3. Adding adjustable arms makes it possible for you to dial things in to how you like them but won't magically fix any problems. You have to adjust them.
4. Coilovers with softer springs in the rear might help with traction, allows more squat, but this is an area where I'm totally inexperienced so am not sure it's the way to go.
I auto-cross so my setup is very different from what you want but I struggle with getting the power down exiting corners. This is due mostly to the anti-squat nature of the S13 rear setup. I swapped all the rear arms and adjusted them to set camber, caster and toe the way i wanted and it helped a lot.
Bottom line to this is adjustable parts give you the ability to tune the setup but won't automatically fix anything. In fact things will probably be worse the first couple runs while you dial in the setup.
1. The S13 rear end has a lot of anti-squat built into it's geometry, you might consider swapping in an S14 rear subframe.
2. If you move the S13 subframe relative the body space it further away, not closer. Moving the subframe closer to the body increases the anti-squat geometry.
3. Adding adjustable arms makes it possible for you to dial things in to how you like them but won't magically fix any problems. You have to adjust them.
4. Coilovers with softer springs in the rear might help with traction, allows more squat, but this is an area where I'm totally inexperienced so am not sure it's the way to go.
I auto-cross so my setup is very different from what you want but I struggle with getting the power down exiting corners. This is due mostly to the anti-squat nature of the S13 rear setup. I swapped all the rear arms and adjusted them to set camber, caster and toe the way i wanted and it helped a lot.
Bottom line to this is adjustable parts give you the ability to tune the setup but won't automatically fix anything. In fact things will probably be worse the first couple runs while you dial in the setup.
Wheelman
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
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- eazye2000
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I'm going to say I had the best launches with stock springs/struts, with solid subframe mounts and a few upgraded suspension arms. She was squishy, and bit pretty good when she hooked up.
After I got coils, every arm replaced, etc.... I noticed it was harder to hook up. But then again, I never knew how to adjust or align for straight line racing, so keep that in mind.
I don't have time to dig right now, but I'll find some before and after video's for you to look at.
After I got coils, every arm replaced, etc.... I noticed it was harder to hook up. But then again, I never knew how to adjust or align for straight line racing, so keep that in mind.
I don't have time to dig right now, but I'll find some before and after video's for you to look at.
- sdaigle240
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Re: subframe upgrade
it would be cool to do some experimentatioon with the rear raction rod, seeing that theres no spec for it and it greatly effects camber. disconnect the coilver and take camber mesurements at various levels of compression to formulate a camber curve. find the curve with the least variation and go with that traction arm length.
my entire rear is poly and heims. dont drag race but real happyi did it.
my entire rear is poly and heims. dont drag race but real happyi did it.
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
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