Calum / CalumRT Discussion

Discussion about ECU Tuning Products and Theories
coolkat
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Post by coolkat »

i run 93 octane pump gas. 12.5 ohms
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Post by frankist »

have you tried leaning out that portion of the map? i was in the same boat and ended up leaning that portion of the map. are you basically in the same tp/rpm column area as you were na? i noticed on my car that it was dipping to low 11's at idle, but fine everywhere else. i found out that my timing values were retarted due to the car attempting to keep the rpm at 700. out of the idle tps circuit, timing values corresponded to my ign map. after that i just leaned up the area where it would idle and worked out fine. i never saw those columns being used again during cruise/wot/accel in my logs so i thought it was fine, even in colder/warmer weather. if anyone else encountered this, chime in, im still wondering if what i did was correct.
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coolkat
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Post by coolkat »

yeah i leaned it out alright. as a bandaid fix i put really low values in the idle area of the map. i have like -40's to get the right afr at idle! thats stupid.

im not sure i understand what you said that you did to "fix" your proplem.

my idle is too high and i guess it could be trying to correct somewhere. i never thought of that. is there a table/map that i should be looking at for that?
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Post by Alonso »

Wow I always have the map zeroed out in the idle area...
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Post by sdaigle240 »

yeah, theres a base idle map as a function of coolant temp, just decrease em till your happy.
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Post by coolkat »

yeah i wish mine would work that way but it dont. :? somthing is obviously wrong somewhere i just cant figure out where or what.
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Post by coolkat »

thanx sdaigle240 ill look into that when i leave work for lunch
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Post by sdaigle240 »

np, sorry im not in fornt of my personal comp to provide the location, but im sure its on all xdf's. i have a self learning ecu so it always eventually hoans in on 14.7 but i did notice when i droped my rpms from 1200 to 900 the idle afrs definitely changed. lower them and then readjust your k/lat, and with any luck it might get you back to "zeros" in the map.. probably not but worth a shot!!! a good example is when you flick your ac compressor on, your afrs change a few points. not sure why as the entire region is zero'd or in my case set to 14.7 (s14 ecu) but it happens.
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Post by frankist »

were you able to figure it out.
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Post by coolkat »

i played around with the idle maps without much luck with the afr's. i did get it to idle where i wanted though. its still very rich till i hit the gas.
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Post by thesandman4444 »

Coolkat, what is your timing at idle? I'm having the same problem because of a bad iacv. The ecu pulls timing to 9* when it tries to adjust the idle down and it goes rich. As soon as my timing goes back to 20 the afrs are fine. Try forcing the timing to 20* with the consult test and see if it makes a difference.
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Post by MTX450 »

I think this has been clarified before, but I'd like to stress again how important it is to make sure your car is in absolute top running condition before you tune. No vaccum/boost leaks, no fuel injectors leaking, no turbo seals leaking, ect.... So many people have problems and we all go into depth trying to help when then after a few days it's "figured it out, i didn't have gas in the car".

PS. I miss my car. Turbo's are sweet.
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Post by frankist »

mtx thats a good solid point, i ran in circles for a long period of time, untill really looking back at the motor. tuning a car with issues to begin with is no fun.

im still attempting to figure this out, ill let you guys know once something comes up.
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Post by coolkat »

i do have a couple of very small boost leaks. they are so small you cant hear them. i used soapy water to find them. one is on the on my FPR at the adjustment screw and the other is on the BOV at its adjustment screw. at 20 psi it took like 20-30 seconds for a 1' diameter bubble to form.

i would think that a vac leak at idle would make it leaner, not stupid rich as it is

ill look at the timing in NDS while at idle and report my find

i guess it could be possible that its a leaking injector. how would you go about checking top feed injectors? when i tried before i took a bath in fuel when the fuel pressure pushed them out of the rail :oops:
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Post by frankist »

you pretty much have the same set up as me. i remember doing a leak down test, almost pissing out the injectors because i forgot i had a topfeed rail which didnt have clips to secure the injectors from flying out. i just held each injector while someone else priming it up. doesnt take much. does your aeromotive pressure regulator have a gauge on it? does your hold constant rest pressure?
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coolkat
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Post by coolkat »

yes I have a gauge on the side of my FPR. the pressure will drop after i turn the car off. i guess i was thinking that the FPR was letting it bleed down . i never thought that it was a problem, I thought that's just what they did lol. So i guess that means that i got leaking injectors?

that might explain another little symptom that iv been having with the car "sputtering" at idle intermittently. it goes lean on the wideband when it does it <--that should prolly be it a different thread though.
t3/to4e, JWT S1 cams, CP pistons .020 over, UR pully set, z32 mafs, RC-750's, Walbro255, Aeromotive 1:1 fpr, CalumRT, Innovate lm-1
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Post by 8-bit »

lets please not get too far sidetracked from tuning discussion here.
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Post by frankist »

edit, sorry 8bit. =)
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Post by R33E8 »

Is it ok to remove the front o2 sensor and replace it with a wideband for tuning? My down pipe has a hole in the flex joint right before the wideband o2 sensor so it doesn't read right.. Will the ecu just run in open loop and ignore the o2 sensor missing?
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Post by UNISA JECS »

R33E8 wrote:Is it ok to remove the front o2 sensor and replace it with a wideband for tuning? My down pipe has a hole in the flex joint right before the wideband o2 sensor so it doesn't read right.. Will the ecu just run in open loop and ignore the o2 sensor missing?
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Post by R33E8 »

UNISA JECS wrote:
Well fix the damn thing then!.....lol JFWU......

haha i know right.. talk about bad timing to ask this question.. im going to make a new downpipe but i don't have a welder and material yet..
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Post by 8-bit »

i put my plx-300 in there and it outputs a narrowband signal that you wire to the ecu as well. i'd recommend getting a wideband that can do that if you don't own one yet... that way you can go the way you're suggesting. It seems I drove for over a year with my wideband. Worked awesome.
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Post by R33E8 »

That is great. I actually have the plx m-300 so it should work too...
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Post by emo_tactical9 »

8-bit wrote:i put my plx-300 in there and it outputs a narrowband signal that you wire to the ecu as well. i'd recommend getting a wideband that can do that if you don't own one yet... that way you can go the way you're suggesting. It seems I drove for over a year with my wideband. Worked awesome.
And I've been running the very same sensor and controller as a narrowband since I bought it from you ~ 2 years now. No issues yet.
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Post by R33E8 »

nvm
Last edited by R33E8 on Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by 8-bit »

R33E8 wrote:Another question.. I'm using a bikirom ecu but maybe you guys can help.. With some of the KA24de base maps i loaded, the map trace shows me as running max load at idle, when I rev, and when I drive.. I thought it was just a bug or something but when driving around the car bucks and runs super rich under light throttle.. I didn't drive more than 100ft before changing the map back to something that worked. But does anyone know why this might happen?
Please make another thread about your problems with bikirom. But so you know, there is a chance you loaded a tune that was not intended to be used on your setup, adjusted something like the K value, and now the TP values are far too low...
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Post by MTX450 »

Does anyone that might speak to Calum on a more regular basis then me know if any developments have been made on OBD2 stuff?
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Post by diegs88 »

okay have searched and read it before just a little confused unsure. i know in fuel and timing maps rpm is on the left and the top is tp correct? what is tp? how is it calculated?
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Post by ppctx »

From here http://www.ztechz.net/id10.html
TP is Theoretical Pulsewidth, and the Maps also have a scale based on calculated TP to determine access points for the Maps 16 columns. As the engine sucks in air it registers on the MAF, the MAF emails a 0-5.1v signal back to the ecu, the ecu matches the voltage up on the VQ Table, pulls a number from its anus, and then after a mathematical formula and a smoke break, calculates the TP.
also, % changes in k value also needs the same % change to your TP values, IIRC increase 10% on K, YOU need to increase TP values by 10%. Coolest thing I've observed with TP is that you can interpolate between two TP values coresponding to the respective psi that produced them and find any other TP/psi relation. ie if 0psi = 50, 5psi = 60, 10psi = 70, you can calculate that 7.5psi will be 65 and 15psi will be 80. Biggest thing to keep in mind when doing it is to make sure you run rpm high enough to reach max TP when finding your first two points.
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Post by UNISA JECS »

Damn this thread just died didn;t it.
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