Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors* :-D
- Walperstyle
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Gorgeous paint job.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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- schmauster920
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Thanks, I can't take credit for it thou as it was the last owner before me who painted it
Can't remeber what colour he said it was will try to find out, but im pretty sure it was a Nissan colour.
Tok my old car for this seasons first testdrive last night driveshaft seems to work fine! But after driving a while the z32 gearbox begins to rattle a bit, only in 4th and 5th gear i think... Not much to do about it I guess..
Iv'e replaced the old 1680 bosch injectors with some new ev14 2200cc and it's amazing how good they are! with the old injectors I could only choose like either lambda 0.75 or 1.05 on idling. And I had to have the idle set to 1300-1400rpm and it still died on me when the coolingfan turned on etc...
But with the new 2200cc it's idling better than ever before, you just set the lambda for whatever you want to It's now idling at like 950rpm and doesn't die when the fan turns on. And low rpm driving are so strong and steady compared to before!
After hearing al the talk about how good they new ev14 injectors are, they still managed to surprise me
Can't remeber what colour he said it was will try to find out, but im pretty sure it was a Nissan colour.
Tok my old car for this seasons first testdrive last night driveshaft seems to work fine! But after driving a while the z32 gearbox begins to rattle a bit, only in 4th and 5th gear i think... Not much to do about it I guess..
Iv'e replaced the old 1680 bosch injectors with some new ev14 2200cc and it's amazing how good they are! with the old injectors I could only choose like either lambda 0.75 or 1.05 on idling. And I had to have the idle set to 1300-1400rpm and it still died on me when the coolingfan turned on etc...
But with the new 2200cc it's idling better than ever before, you just set the lambda for whatever you want to It's now idling at like 950rpm and doesn't die when the fan turns on. And low rpm driving are so strong and steady compared to before!
After hearing al the talk about how good they new ev14 injectors are, they still managed to surprise me
- all shal perrish
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those injectors are SICK, i love mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlNZ8H4BzUI ( on 92 octain NOT corn like you, lucky man )
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlNZ8H4BzUI ( on 92 octain NOT corn like you, lucky man )
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Ok, so did a little bit of tuning and testing.
I had to try some Iphone G-tech.
Went something like that, 380whp. I think my base boost pressure is about 0.9bar and then it creeps up to 1.1bar in third gear.
I didn't have road enough to push it to the rev limit.
Spark angle at is about 21degrees at 1.1bar, good or could it be more?
I had to try some Iphone G-tech.
Went something like that, 380whp. I think my base boost pressure is about 0.9bar and then it creeps up to 1.1bar in third gear.
I didn't have road enough to push it to the rev limit.
Spark angle at is about 21degrees at 1.1bar, good or could it be more?
18 secs 1/4 huh......i guess u didn't double clutch and granny shifted the car huh! heheheh
21 degrees sound like alot for 1.1bar, but then again you are running E85.
21 degrees sound like alot for 1.1bar, but then again you are running E85.
Last edited by TheOne on Tue May 01, 2012 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Forgive me, you have a long thread - are you running E85? I can only assume so with those huge injectors...
21 degrees at 1.1 bar would probably be more on the aggressive side for regular petrol but with E85 I'm sure you could run more!
I love the paint job myself.
21 degrees at 1.1 bar would probably be more on the aggressive side for regular petrol but with E85 I'm sure you could run more!
I love the paint job myself.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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Haha, nevermind the times The 60' was 7 sec. Maybe i happend to trigger it a bit early... And in second gear i get massive wheelspin, thats why it looks so low on power there.
I'm not quite sure how much the car weights thou, I just put in 1350kg like the registerpaper says. Could be a like +-50kgs i guess. I have removed stuff like sparewheel, AC, Stereo and I have coilovers instead of oem shocks and struts...
But on the otherhand I have replaced the CA18det with the heavier ka24de and added a turbo and exhoust manifold thats heavy as hell and a z32 gearbox, z32 brakes al around and a fuel catch can.
I'm running E85
I'm not quite sure how much the car weights thou, I just put in 1350kg like the registerpaper says. Could be a like +-50kgs i guess. I have removed stuff like sparewheel, AC, Stereo and I have coilovers instead of oem shocks and struts...
But on the otherhand I have replaced the CA18det with the heavier ka24de and added a turbo and exhoust manifold thats heavy as hell and a z32 gearbox, z32 brakes al around and a fuel catch can.
I'm running E85
More timing!Niclas_AB wrote:I'm running E85
By the way try running VirtualDyno to get calculated dyno plots. If your logs are good and you fill in all the data correctly, it gives you pretty accurate numbers. All you need is a data logger
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
- mattheripper
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Got the boost controller sort of working now, still needs alot of tuning tho. But It's up to about 22psi now. Seems to be about what it can hold in third gear, tires brake loose sometimes and sometimes it's ok.
I have tried virtual dyno but been getting wierd results and for the moment I'm having logging issues, the computer seems to be disconnected everytime I go WOT on higher rpms
Have to figure out the problem, running sparkplugs without resistors now, could that be the problem? or maybe I need to look for a new USB/seriell converter?
Dynolicious says about 435whp now
I have tried virtual dyno but been getting wierd results and for the moment I'm having logging issues, the computer seems to be disconnected everytime I go WOT on higher rpms
Have to figure out the problem, running sparkplugs without resistors now, could that be the problem? or maybe I need to look for a new USB/seriell converter?
Dynolicious says about 435whp now
Great! I hope to be there soon.
I would try running some BKR7E or any plug with resistors and see if the logging goes kapooey. I am sure you know this but running plugs without resistors gives off RFI, which could disrupt your ecu, pc, or whatever else. I had issues connecting to the MS with a cheap converter. I bought the DIYautotune converter and no issues.
I would try running some BKR7E or any plug with resistors and see if the logging goes kapooey. I am sure you know this but running plugs without resistors gives off RFI, which could disrupt your ecu, pc, or whatever else. I had issues connecting to the MS with a cheap converter. I bought the DIYautotune converter and no issues.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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Well, not much happening. But I made some small improvements
I remade the pressurepipe from the turbo, mad my own V-band with a O-ring that fitted the outlet of the compressor. Hope it works, looks alot better than my old pipe that was kind of horrible. Now it also clear the chassie
Then I also made a hole in front of the front wheel to put the airfilter down there to get some nice cold air, but hte new compressor housing was 106mm instead of 100mm so the hose I bought didn't fit
So until I have time to buy a bigger hose I just mounted a piece from the front so I it might get a little bit better
I remade the pressurepipe from the turbo, mad my own V-band with a O-ring that fitted the outlet of the compressor. Hope it works, looks alot better than my old pipe that was kind of horrible. Now it also clear the chassie
Then I also made a hole in front of the front wheel to put the airfilter down there to get some nice cold air, but hte new compressor housing was 106mm instead of 100mm so the hose I bought didn't fit
So until I have time to buy a bigger hose I just mounted a piece from the front so I it might get a little bit better
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Did some driving yeasterday, put my old sparkplugs in and the loggin problem is gone
Seems like there is a bit of difference with the new compressor cover aswell, full boost is just as late as usuall but it seems like i see positive pressure a bit earlier(0.1bar before 2000rpm!) and it also wanted to boost higher than before?
As you can se in the log the overboost protection at 1,7bar steps in...
And another thing aswell, the injectors see 60% DC at 1,7bar, quite alot of fuel If my fuelsystem works as it's supposed to......
Did some highway pulls with a freinds volvo 740 and they were equally fast, he has 500whp
Seems like there is a bit of difference with the new compressor cover aswell, full boost is just as late as usuall but it seems like i see positive pressure a bit earlier(0.1bar before 2000rpm!) and it also wanted to boost higher than before?
As you can se in the log the overboost protection at 1,7bar steps in...
And another thing aswell, the injectors see 60% DC at 1,7bar, quite alot of fuel If my fuelsystem works as it's supposed to......
Did some highway pulls with a freinds volvo 740 and they were equally fast, he has 500whp
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Now I've upgraded to a villager alternater at 110amp. Definitly wasn't bolt on.
Had to drill, cut and grind on the alternator and both brackets to make it fit.. also needed a new belt, a 803mm long instead of 775mm.
But it seems to do a better job than the old one. Got hold of an DC amp meter and checked som stuff out.
With enginge off, lights on and the fan fully on it draws about 12amps.
The walbro pump in the tank tok about 5amps at idle.
My catch tank with dual walbro copies in it took 25amps at idle has to investigate that a bit, seems to be way to much....
But anyway the alternator still managed to produce 3-6amps more than everithing used on idle so it should be fine I guess ..
Also fitted adjustable arms to the rear and did an 4 wheel alignment. Made quite some difference for gripp and handling Still puts the power to the ground in third gear now even at 1,7bar boost, well, most of the times atleast
Had to drill, cut and grind on the alternator and both brackets to make it fit.. also needed a new belt, a 803mm long instead of 775mm.
But it seems to do a better job than the old one. Got hold of an DC amp meter and checked som stuff out.
With enginge off, lights on and the fan fully on it draws about 12amps.
The walbro pump in the tank tok about 5amps at idle.
My catch tank with dual walbro copies in it took 25amps at idle has to investigate that a bit, seems to be way to much....
But anyway the alternator still managed to produce 3-6amps more than everithing used on idle so it should be fine I guess ..
Also fitted adjustable arms to the rear and did an 4 wheel alignment. Made quite some difference for gripp and handling Still puts the power to the ground in third gear now even at 1,7bar boost, well, most of the times atleast
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
Hello Patrik,
I'm actually here once in a while but i'm extremely bad at updating on what's going on.
Cause even thou I'm not updating the thread the build is continuing al the time
I will try to do an update with what has been going on since my last update.
How is you're build going?
I'm actually here once in a while but i'm extremely bad at updating on what's going on.
Cause even thou I'm not updating the thread the build is continuing al the time
I will try to do an update with what has been going on since my last update.
How is you're build going?
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
I did replace my front brakes last year with 330mm disc and Hi Spec callipers. I will try to find ome pictures of stuff later.
I also redid pretty much the whole fuel system. I ditched my catch can and went for one walbro 450lph Intank pump, together with AN8 teflon fuellines, steel braided ofcourse. Al the way from the tank to engine and back.
Also replaced my FPR to an aeromotive one since my old were acting a bit strange. The pressure went down by 0,5bar when the fuel got hot.
I also found a skyline 4.36 diff so I replaced my old diff with that, I think it's from an R33, atleast I hade to get new driveshafts aswell but othe than that it was pretty much bolt on.
I also found some 18inch rims for cheap that i bought, to put track tires on if the car ever wants to work for more than a week or two.
Actually it seems that 285mm tires will fit in the rearend without any modification except for coilovers, pretty cool i think
So that was last year, i'm sure I forgot some things but let's move on to this year.
My goal for this or maybe next year is to get the car streetlegal.
For that I need to have a bit smaller turbo so i'm putting on a Holset HX40 now.
I'm also building a new 3,5" exhaust from the turbo and al the way back. I need to connect the wastegate screampipe to the exhaust and have a Cat to pass MOT.
But that is almost done now, to be able to get good ground clearance I had to make a new gearbox bracket.
I also discovered that one of my motor mounts was completely F..cked. Luckely I had already bought some new stiffer ones that i mounted. I was al glad that i fixed it.
Until i discovered that the engine now sits higher up. That made my wastegate hit the brakebooster
So I hade to modify my exhaust manifold by cutting the wastegate of, shorten the pipes and weld it back at a different angle....
Turned out nicely thou with massive space to the brakebooster.
Wich I really need since I baugth a bigger master cylinder and brakebooster from a Z32 that i'm also mounting now.
While I had al things gone anyway I decided to fabricate myself a new Stearing rack bushing out of aluminium that now is fitted.
Oh yeah, almost forgot, had some engine problems as usual at the end of last season, the engine pushed out water again
So I took it apart, again, put back the Cometic MLS headgasket again and this time I'm using headbolts from a Ford Mondeo Diesel. Will be interesting to see how that goes. They are strecth bolts so I shouldn't have to re-torque them.
That's about it I think. Will try to ad pictures tomorrow.
I also redid pretty much the whole fuel system. I ditched my catch can and went for one walbro 450lph Intank pump, together with AN8 teflon fuellines, steel braided ofcourse. Al the way from the tank to engine and back.
Also replaced my FPR to an aeromotive one since my old were acting a bit strange. The pressure went down by 0,5bar when the fuel got hot.
I also found a skyline 4.36 diff so I replaced my old diff with that, I think it's from an R33, atleast I hade to get new driveshafts aswell but othe than that it was pretty much bolt on.
I also found some 18inch rims for cheap that i bought, to put track tires on if the car ever wants to work for more than a week or two.
Actually it seems that 285mm tires will fit in the rearend without any modification except for coilovers, pretty cool i think
So that was last year, i'm sure I forgot some things but let's move on to this year.
My goal for this or maybe next year is to get the car streetlegal.
For that I need to have a bit smaller turbo so i'm putting on a Holset HX40 now.
I'm also building a new 3,5" exhaust from the turbo and al the way back. I need to connect the wastegate screampipe to the exhaust and have a Cat to pass MOT.
But that is almost done now, to be able to get good ground clearance I had to make a new gearbox bracket.
I also discovered that one of my motor mounts was completely F..cked. Luckely I had already bought some new stiffer ones that i mounted. I was al glad that i fixed it.
Until i discovered that the engine now sits higher up. That made my wastegate hit the brakebooster
So I hade to modify my exhaust manifold by cutting the wastegate of, shorten the pipes and weld it back at a different angle....
Turned out nicely thou with massive space to the brakebooster.
Wich I really need since I baugth a bigger master cylinder and brakebooster from a Z32 that i'm also mounting now.
While I had al things gone anyway I decided to fabricate myself a new Stearing rack bushing out of aluminium that now is fitted.
Oh yeah, almost forgot, had some engine problems as usual at the end of last season, the engine pushed out water again
So I took it apart, again, put back the Cometic MLS headgasket again and this time I'm using headbolts from a Ford Mondeo Diesel. Will be interesting to see how that goes. They are strecth bolts so I shouldn't have to re-torque them.
That's about it I think. Will try to ad pictures tomorrow.
- ChicagoS14T
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
Projets looking great! Hows everything? Ever use that engine I brought over? Theres a guy in Spain that needs the KA24De intake manifold his coolant pipe on the intake cracked from being too old. Shipping an intake manifold from the USA to Spain is too much money. Do you or anyone you know have any extras?
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
Hey How is everything with you?
I'm doing pretty fine, a lot of work as usuall so I'm having a hard time putting the car back together at the moment. But hopefully it will be done within a few weeks. I will get my modded ECU back next week, it will alow me to hook up the 300zx speed sensor to my VEMS EMS. I will also be able to connect a 10" tablet throu bluetooth to the EMS and it will allow me to choose from al the sensors that the EMS have. Wideband lambda, EGT, RPM, boost, coolant temp, fuel pressure, oilpressure voltage or anyting else I would like to connect.
So I will pretty much use the tablet instead of the OEM instrument
I actually haven't used your engine yet. I't was pretty much only the block that was ok. The crank and rods where to damaged for rescue. The head to. But I keep it for spares.
Does he need the whole intake manifold or just the part closest to the head? I'm Pretty sure I have something.
Going back to europe at any point? If you haven't visited "Gatebil" yet you should
I'm doing pretty fine, a lot of work as usuall so I'm having a hard time putting the car back together at the moment. But hopefully it will be done within a few weeks. I will get my modded ECU back next week, it will alow me to hook up the 300zx speed sensor to my VEMS EMS. I will also be able to connect a 10" tablet throu bluetooth to the EMS and it will allow me to choose from al the sensors that the EMS have. Wideband lambda, EGT, RPM, boost, coolant temp, fuel pressure, oilpressure voltage or anyting else I would like to connect.
So I will pretty much use the tablet instead of the OEM instrument
I actually haven't used your engine yet. I't was pretty much only the block that was ok. The crank and rods where to damaged for rescue. The head to. But I keep it for spares.
Does he need the whole intake manifold or just the part closest to the head? I'm Pretty sure I have something.
Going back to europe at any point? If you haven't visited "Gatebil" yet you should
- S14wayz
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
keep us updated, I`m keeping a close eye on this reallly really interested in how the hx55 works out for you
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
I will try to, I'm very close to starting up now. Probably at the weekend. Just need to change the firmware in the VEMS engine management.
But I have already been using the HX55 for 2-3 years, so I'm actually replacing it with a HX40 now
But I have already been using the HX55 for 2-3 years, so I'm actually replacing it with a HX40 now
- S14wayz
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
Thats awesome good luck. Oh crap really! How did you find it was it streetable? Im curious when you got into boost and I'm assuming your swapping to a hx40 due to lag?Niclas_AB wrote:I will try to, I'm very close to starting up now. Probably at the weekend. Just need to change the firmware in the VEMS engine management.
But I have already been using the HX55 for 2-3 years, so I'm actually replacing it with a HX40 now
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Re: Swedish KA-T *Now with new Bosch 2200cc EV14 injectors*
So I fired her up tonight. Went pretty smooth. The speed signal seems to work good but ofcourse needs to be calibrated.
The bluetooth also worked, will try to make a short movie or some pictures of it .
The HX55 worked pretty good but was a bit laggy on lower gears.I think there are som graphs earlier in the thread.
I think the car will be more fun to drive with the HX40 and still have enough top end power.
But I will find out pretty soon
The bluetooth also worked, will try to make a short movie or some pictures of it .
The HX55 worked pretty good but was a bit laggy on lower gears.I think there are som graphs earlier in the thread.
I think the car will be more fun to drive with the HX40 and still have enough top end power.
But I will find out pretty soon