New Project: Mild build

This is for all those PICTURE THREADS ONLY. Motor installs, product writeups, showing off your car, put the thread in here.
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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I'm beginning to think that the reason for this strange wheel "pull" into full lock could be a few things, but I'm strongly leaning towards the caster being the main reason. Okay, so this is what I'm thinking (pardon the poor analogy), but if one has a round lollipop and one half is bitten off on the side of the stick (simulate more weight on the front side of the wheel where the caliper sits), the heavy side is naturally going to want to be under the lighter side, right?!
This would also explain the self-steer characteristics of increased caster.

Image



I dunno, just brainstorming.

If this is the case though, this would mean that my original proposed plan to move the strut tops out and forward may not be the best idea.

Here's why:

As the wheels steering progresses until full lock it slowly gains positive camber (on the leading wheel? or both?; wheel rolls over onto it's sidewall; less tire contacting road surface). Increasing caster (for self-steer and steering stability) exaggerate the positive camber gain through full lock. To help offset this, more negative camber is added.

-more positive caster (strut top behind hub of leading wheel), more self-steer, more positive camber gain progression until full lock

-deceasing caster (more positive) at strut top mount (coilover more vertical/ perpendicular to the ground) would help reduce positive camber gain progression until full lock

-decreasing camber (more negative) at strut top mount would decrease positive camber through full lock


• So, maybe the best thing would be to just move the strut top only forward to decrease the caster and leave the camber aspect alone? :eusa-think:

Its too bad cars cannot be tuned like they can in video games with instant feed back haha



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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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These are the GKTech "budget" strut tops, that were mentioned to move the caster/camber at the strut top location (most of the hardware shown is from McMaster; these do come with hardware though):

Image

They do not fit certain coilovers; unfortunately I did not read well enough before these were shipped. They fit everything on the Teins, except the threaded holes in the spherical bearing plate for camber adjustment don't line up. So the original plan was to just turn the plate 90 degrees and then redrill and tap, but the plate doesn't have enough material on the one side to make this work.

Image

Thinking maybe we'll see how the current setup works and if its unbearable, look into this strut top option.

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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I've been wanting to share this pic for a,while. I'm not sure whose this is, but someone I know took this photo; prob not towing the boat, but maybe?! :mrgreen:

Image

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by street_240sx »

cleantune wrote:.
So a local performance shop did the alignment; still working on tweaking some settings; the front caster on one of the sides will need to change since they are fairly different. This is what the specs are after the first alignment:

Front driverside / passenger side:
camber= -4.7 / -4.69
caster=5.82 / 6.53
toe= 0.13 /0.13

Rear driverside / passenger side:
camber= -1.28 / -1.29
toe= 0.08 / 0.04
:]


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Add more caster. We have the same lowers and my coils are just ksports.

Camber i run -7 which is a little much but i like it for now and 9 degrees of caater, with your current setup you have less than oem caster
03 evo8 gsr: stroker 2.3 ;)

04 evo8 gsr: totalled

96 integra gsr: sold

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Thanks for the tip.
That may explain some of the "twitchiness" that was felt in the steering wheel. I was trying to avoid tubs for the wheel wells, but maybe after adding more caster it would be enough to just air-hammer the front of the wheel well?

The given range for caster on the alignment machine for this chassis was 6-7 degrees, so you're right. If I get a chance, I'm going to check this out tomorrow.

I'm kinda kicking myself now because I'm pretty sure the one rose joint spun on me one of the times I took off the FLCAs and shortened/lengthened that side, so I had to readjust the tension adjustment..... In hindsight, Should have just remeasured all of the rose joint lengths before install.

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by street_240sx »

I dont have to tub mine yet but i want to cut the inner fender out since i want to go lower and run something wider than a 215/45/17. Im still waiting on my gktech sway bar and i want those knuckles!
03 evo8 gsr: stroker 2.3 ;)

04 evo8 gsr: totalled

96 integra gsr: sold

89 s13 coupe: stock dohc, gt3076, megasquirt

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by street_240sx »

My car was twitchy when i ran low caster and when drifting i was doing alot more work than others, everyone asked me why i wouldnt just let it go and steer itself out but low caster it was return to center as easy
03 evo8 gsr: stroker 2.3 ;)

04 evo8 gsr: totalled

96 integra gsr: sold

89 s13 coupe: stock dohc, gt3076, megasquirt

started 3/15/08, running 1/18/09, finally turbo 2/9/14 lmfao
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Good to know. There isn't a whole lot of info out there yet on these as far as how they feel driving; at least not that I know of.

The front suspension really is a balancing act that needs to be tailored for the driver. Caster is interesting because it helps in some areas (like the self-steer), but then it also reduces tire contact patch progressively through steering lock (gains progressive positive camber)....hah and what is the common solution...more camber! ...which causes another issue with the tire contact of the front wheels when straight, reducing grip for braking. Absolute madness haha.

If I remember correctly, Wisefab kits have the hub itself (on the knuckle) relocated forward to give the self-steer characteristics of increased caster, with reduced effects of positive camber gain through full lock.

I heard running low offset wheels in the front or large spacers can help exaggerate the affect caster has on the self-steer characteristic.

I also forgot to mention, the front wheels are 17x9 +10.

Street_240sx , if you don't mind me asking what width/offset did you have on the front when you were experiencing the twitchiness?

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

cleantune wrote:I had the 240 BMC in with the front and rear z32's and I remember reading somewhere that this combo may have even worse pedal feel than the OEM brake system (very little pedal travel/ ability to "modulate" braking pressure),
240 BMC (manual booster) with f/r Z32 should give a very spongey feel. The smaller cylinder has to travel further to move the calipers than a larger cylinder could. My pedal was super stiff with very little travel. That's why I decided to switch to the 1".

I'm still bedding in the pads, so no hard stops yet, but I so far I like the pedal feel.

cleantune wrote:The front suspension really is a balancing act that needs to be tailored for the driver. Caster is interesting because it helps in some areas (like the self-steer), but then it also reduces tire contact patch progressively through steering lock (gains progressive positive camber)....hah and what is the common solution...more camber! ...which causes another issue with the tire contact of the front wheels when straight, reducing grip for braking. Absolute madness haha.
Indeed!
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by street_240sx »

Right now i run a 17x8 +30 with a 32mm spacer, actually i found out ive been running different spacers on left vs right but never felt weird. I think when i had twitchiness i had 17x9 +17 but very low caster caused me to be twitchy and have bumpsteer going straight and in drift i would never let go of the steering wheel, i had to work it to make the car react as i wanted.
03 evo8 gsr: stroker 2.3 ;)

04 evo8 gsr: totalled

96 integra gsr: sold

89 s13 coupe: stock dohc, gt3076, megasquirt

started 3/15/08, running 1/18/09, finally turbo 2/9/14 lmfao
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

adamky wrote: 240 BMC (manual booster) with f/r Z32 should give a very spongey feel. The smaller cylinder has to travel further to move the calipers than a larger cylinder could. My pedal was super stiff with very little travel. That's why I decided to switch to the 1".

I'm still bedding in the pads, so no hard stops yet, but I so far I like the pedal feel.
Thanks for the input. I'm curious to see if a real difference can be felt between the 240 oem brakes and z32; havent't even had a chance to do an initial bedding of the pads though. You just reminded me about this though, I totally forgot about bedding the pads, thanks! Its something like to or three 0-60 then 0 slow gradual stops or something like that I think right? I think we're running the same pads too maybe? Hawk Hps?
street_240sx wrote:Right now i run a 17x8 +30 with a 32mm spacer, actually i found out ive been running different spacers on left vs right but never felt weird. I think when i had twitchiness i had 17x9 +17 but very low caster caused me to be twitchy and have bumpsteer going straight and in drift i would never let go of the steering wheel, i had to work it to make the car react as i wanted.
Great info, thanks for sharing that. So I guess the wheel spacers/ lower offset really has more effect on the "self-steer" as the caster is "lowered"(wheels further forward)? maybe?

--

Started changing some things; embracing the wheel gap (for now at least):

Image

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

This is pretty much what I am doing: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/tec ... ?techid=85.
It comes down to just heating them up slowly and trying not to come to a complete stop on hot rotors.

I was running Hawk HPS but wanted to try something different this time so I went with Stop Tech Sport pads.


Those wheels are killer. And gold lug nuts too!
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

adamky wrote:This is pretty much what I am doing: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/tec ... ?techid=85.
It comes down to just heating them up slowly and trying not to come to a complete stop on hot rotors.

I was running Hawk HPS but wanted to try something different this time so I went with Stop Tech Sport pads.
Thanks for the link. I was using stoptech pads on the rear (forget what model) on the OEM calipers and they were great from what I remember; grabbed super hard without a lot of noise. Was there anything you didn't like about the HPS?
adamky wrote: Those wheels are killer. And gold lug nuts too!
Thanks man! hah, yeah I hope the gold lasts a little longer- it's been starting to chip off on me with how often the wheels have gone on and come off. They are steel, extended, keyed, and fairly inexpensive compared to other lugs; which is really all that I cared about at the time. The finish was a bonus though :mrgreen:
It's kinda funny (and kinda not), but many of the parts that are being installed (including the lugs and wheels) were acquired months or a year or more in advance and just now finding the time to install them....ugh, just not enough time in the day!

Anyways, keeping with this theme, about 2 years and still cage is not painted hah; I really need to get on that since its showing signs of surface rust. Also, I had ordered a bumper and had it delivered to a shop like maybe a year or so ago and just now getting around to the install (in last pic posted).

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Some updates:

The steering feels "heavy". My guesses as to why:
-shorter ackerman arms (connect to tierod end) on the GKTech knuckles= less leverage= heavier than OEM steering feel
-more than OEM caster=heavy steering feel (exaggerating the effect of the shorter ackerman arms)

Possible fixes:
-reduce caster at strut top, since the wheel is already fairly centered in the wheel well (possibly with the GKTech strut top plates)

*plan is to see how "undrivable" it is to drive with the heavy steering feel, then correct if necessary by moving the strut top forward more.

Aaannd back to the bumper story.....

So, to support the new bumper and to add some safety to the front (the "hacked-up" 5mph bumper was not really doing too much), a front "bash bar" was designed and created by a local performance shop, who are very professional and do great work. I am truely grateful for their willingness to work with me throughout the fabrication projects on this and I can't thank them enough for their hard work and patience.

The FMIC inlet and outlets as well as the end tanks were blocking access to the frame rail (where the bumper bar was meant to mount to so another project developed :icon-neutral: .

The FMIC was flipped with new mounts and two cast aluminum 90's were welded to either side. The old, long, steel, equal diameter piping was replaced with shorter, aluminum piping that goes from 2.5" (hot side) to 2.75" (coldside) to help maintain airflow velocity in the direction of the throttle body. The steel HKS-style adapter and synchronic HKS bov adapter was replaced with a synchronic aluminum adapter that goes directly from the pipe to the BOV (no adapters). The BOV location was also moved to the "coldside" right before the throttle body. A 90 deg was welded to the bottom of the compressor housing for a more secure coupler connection and the AIT sensor was moved over to the new piping.

**BOV setup not pictured below**

Image

I'm sure everyone who sees this is wondering "why soo low?!". The front bar setup was built for the bumper. When the bumper was chosen, I had no idea that this particular bumper was made to be low. This is why there is prob about 2" of wheel gap in the front now haha- it had to be raised in the front and the rear too; which also helps with possible fender rubbing. If it is really in the way, a slip fit design, secured with two through bolts allows for removal.

Going to have to work on the fender situation too; I really don't like how much the tires stick out in the front.

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Installed the turn signals the other day. They are just held in with one screw :icon-eek: (through predrilled pilot hole in fiberglass).

Image

Just a "heads-up" for anyone doing this turnsignal conversion for the first time:
The USDM bulbs DON'T fit in the JDM signal housing..or I think they call them "winkers". The signal bulb and the three-point base is too large. The other USDM small bulb side marker may fit though (didn't check, but seemed small enough to work).

There is also nothing "winky" about these signals. after installing the "JDM signal conversion harness" to the USDM side marker electrical plug an obvious problem was noted- constant "on" without signal function.

The JDM harness's bulb sockets are smaller to fit into the two bulb slots on the back of the signal lights.

So, the larger bulb (that came with the lights) was wired into the previous signal wires and the other bulb was left connected to the constant "on" from the previous side markers.

This seems to work normally. So for now: daytime running lights on the outside of the signals and front blinker bulbs function only when the signals are switched on.


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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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The front suspension setup is so much more of a balancing act than I had originally imagined. As it turns out the scrub radius may be playing into the strange steering as well, due to the angle of the "kingpin" (main pivot point of the front knuckles). For those who don't already know, when looking fron the front of the car, if one were to draw an imaginary line through the pivot point of the steering knuckle and then drew another imaginary line through the center of the wheel width; "scrub radius" is the distance between these two lines where the tire contact the road surface. Then depending on sidewall flex, when under lateral load, the tire contact patch can shift slightly from side to side, increasing or decreasing the scrub radius.

http://www.hrsprings.com/technical/scrub_radius

Image
http://white-smoke.wikifoundry.com/page ... g+Geometry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUDMEd1bMZI

...and these scrub radius settings go back to toe settings:

•positive scrub radius = toe in under braking
•negative scrub radius = toe out under braking
•zeroscrub radius = undesirable because can cause instability during braking

* The aim is to set settings close to zero though, so that the toe change is not dramatic (effort to maintain consistency in suspension geometry). This toe change, in regard to the suspension compression under braking conditions, is opposite for the rebound of suspension and can help control/ predict "bump steer".

Super overwhelming stuff hahaha.
I'm definitely NOT going to be measuring everything! This stuff will be kept in mind though when trying to diagnose or setup any other suspension setups.

Oh and one more link for toe settings:
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ ... r-Toe.aspx

The rear suspension is somewhat set, since the knuckles are OEM in the rear. I was reading an article about the traction rods and supposedly these affect the toe change during what MotoIQ called "forward roll"; assuming this is suspension compression under acceleration? and supposedly the longer these are the less toe change during "forward roll". If anyone has messed with this setting please let me know; I'd be interested to know if the affects are really noticeable.

Hoping to have a pretty solid alignment setup by the end of next week.

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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More updates!

I don't think the "alignment "issue" was completely related to the alignment. Everything was aligned again and it felt better driving, but something is still off. The shop owner kept talking about a "death wobble" and I had never felt this driving; although, I did observe it in one of the test drives. This "death wobble" is a violent, continuous left to right reciprocating movement of the steering wheel, traveling only a few degrees in either direction. One will feel it in their wrists after trying to maintain control of the steering wheel.

Also, it doesn't happen all the time, can occur when driving straight or turning, and is not always triggered by uneven road surfaces or steering too sharply.

There were three factors that were noted during the assembly of the front end that could potentially be responsible:
1. steering rack brackets were moved
2. the passenger tie rod end threading was not perfectly through the middle (bare;y noticable; very tiny/minute distance off center; earlier version unmarked tierod hardware piece; maybe not even brandname steel threaded sleeve)
3. one of the front hub bearings*



Everything in the font is tight, no play in the wheels either The "death wobble was intermittent and was not always triggered in similarly comparable conditions. The steering rack brackets are welded and the tie rod ends were tight and do not have to be absolutely, laser positioned perfectly in the center to be effective- as long as the walls are not too thin and the structural integrity is present.

So rack doesn't move (welded w/ stiff bushings). Tie rod end doesn't move (tight). So its looking like this is coming back to haunt me....

Image

^I dont know why this picture is so GIGANTIC, I guess for emphasis, hah

When trying to fit the hubs on an earlier version knuckle the inner race of the hub bearing stuck on the spindle and needed a gear puller to get it off. I was able to be placed back in the bearing, but it never sat the same - always stuck out a little bit. I thought that this wouldn't matter because the pressure fron the spindle nut would push this shield back in place.

Found out the other day too that s14 front bearings are NOT meant to be replaced and WILL MOST LIKELY FAIL if replaced. Supposedly ONLY the rear bearings for an s14 are replaceable and the front hub/bearing assembly is meant to be replaced as a whole unit. I've heard s13's have a different protocol.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by MRLuke »

I had the same problem (completely different car) where the wheel bearings had died and damaged the hub slightly. Even with brand new bearings there was too much play. The installed bearing felt fine on the ramp but the car would start pulling side to side, like the back end was breaking loose even though we were still travelling in a straight line. My problem was rear hubs but could see you getting the same symptoms for front failures.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

MRLuke wrote:I had the same problem (completely different car) where the wheel bearings had died and damaged the hub slightly. Even with brand new bearings there was too much play. The installed bearing felt fine on the ramp but the car would start pulling side to side, like the back end was breaking loose even though we were still travelling in a straight line. My problem was rear hubs but could see you getting the same symptoms for front failures.
man, sorry to hear that; thanks for sharing though. I'll keep this in mind while trying to diagnose this mystery "wheel shake".

So, today I did some more exploring (with an open mind) into what the wheel shake could be caused by. I decided to put the key in the ignition to take the "security wheel lock" out of the equation and jack up the front end, leaving enough pressure on the wheels to provide some resistance for the steering. Here is a video of the sound/ play:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39WT-O_Zix0

The noise is much louder in the video, but this is pretty much how much the steering wheel moved and what it sounded like during these "wheel shake" moments during driving.

I'm trying to narrow down the problem by feeling for vibrations and where the vibrations are stronger in the steering components, when moving the steering wheel like in the video. I know the PBM inner tierods have a limited range of motion, due to the thicker tierod portion near the ball joint, so I'm wondering if this current "monster truck" height may have put them out of this range. I remember someone taking about what the steering was like when one of their front ball joints were bad and it seems very similar- wheel would vilently shake fron side to side in small increments.

So as of now, looking at these components as the problem:
-inner tie rods (bad ball joints?)
-outer tiers (where the "shank" goes into the knock; may need to add some shims under the castle nuts to tighten
-wheel bearing (inner race never sat right after it came apart after getting stuck on another pair of knuckles)

*I'm starting to lean away from the wheel bearign beign the problem because there isn't play in the vertical axis, which I would think there would be after spinning the wheel and checking for play in multiple points of the wheel rotation.

Quote from PBM's site:

"The downside of the spherical bearing or pillowball joint is that it cant be used on OEM type strut and spring because the range of motion is 30 degrees, thats about half of the OEM tie rod range. The OEM suspension has tons of down travel which is where the tie rod needs to have a lot of droop. Some Coilovers like KW that are not full tap coilovers have a lot of droop too, like stock, but for almost everyone whose coilovers have 50% or less travel than stock suspension, this is no problem at all!"
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Well that was quick, think this may be the problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWzUNVfV9oQ


Some updates:

Looking to extend the bump stops or maybe wheel spacers?

Image

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Trying to decide what color to paint the interior. Originally I was thinking black, then white, then gray; still unsure. Thought a tan color may look good as long as it wasn't light enough to look like an "aged" white color. Also trying to take heat and sunlight reflection into consideration; for example: black obviously would heat up interior faster than white, while white would give more potential sunlight glare. I dunno. If I do paint the interior it will most likely be a "single stage" paint and most likely a solid color gloss.

What do you guys think?
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MRLuke
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by MRLuke »

Looks like you've found the problem!
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Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=53366
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

^ fingers crossed, really hoping it was just those bad bearings.

The shop I took the FLCAs to to replace the bearings did something when they installed the new bearings that made the bearings tight; a lot tighter than the new bearings were too. The new bearings would move when light pressure was applied. After the shop pressed them in, they were very difficult to move by hand (which is a good thing!). I ended up putting this side on first and then using the body of the flca as leverage to move the other bearing ends in place (normal flca point and tension rod point.

Also discovered that the jam nuts on most of the point of these flca/tension rod combo arms,were not tight. I ended up changing some of the lengths as a result. Using the longacre toe plates it seems,to have about 1/8" toe out in the front, but prob should be re aligned.

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adamky
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

I think I would go with a darker color for the interior just to cut down on sun glare. I can't imagine that the temp difference in a white vs black interior would be that significant, could it?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

Thanks for the input, I'm leaning towards the darker color as well. I would hope temp diff wouldn't be much different. Ideally, I'd like to paint it a dark matte black color for both glare and to improve visibility outside of the cabin; I'm just stuck because some people I talk to say that it would make the cage blend with the interior (what I want, hah) and hide all the hard fabrication work and care with the welds.

Also, someone recently suggested after prep, instead of spraying the interior, they suggested using a brush or foam brush to brush on the automotive paint. They said it would be less messy and if it is quality paint, the brush strokes should smooth out.. just an option. In the meantime, I'm still trying to find a paint booth to rent/use this winter.

Also, kind of sorted out the alignment...for now at least. It still feels kind of strange driving/steering. The PS pump may be under too much load near full lock too, since the engine seems to always stall when the wheels are turned too sharply in a parking lot (just at rolling speed- 5mph or less).

going to have to find a new online image host site because my photobucket account keeps getting a bunch of spam ads on it, often kicking me off the site (reason no pics lately).

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Bumper fiitted. Unfortunately the bumper has been scraped many times already (not on purpose of course; and even with the "monster truck" ride height). The bottom of the bumper bar rests tightly against the inner surfaces of the front bumper (top and bottom) though, so this has helped preserve its structure. The good thing is frame rails and everything else is actually a lot higher off the ground than they were before this was installed.

I kept forgetting that the suspension has "droop" in it, so even if the ground causes the front end of the car to lift, as long as it doesn't lift more than the "droop" or down-travel of the suspension the front wheels will stay planted on the ground for steering control. **STATING THE OBVIOUS** haha

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Still haven't mounted the skirts. I'm still trying to decide the most non-invasive way to do this; any suggestons are welcome : ]

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hooligans661
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by hooligans661 »

Awesome build brotha. And very informative. Keep them coming!
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

hooligans661 wrote:Awesome build brotha. And very informative. Keep them coming!
^thanks! :D
One of the goals of this thread has been to share new ideas and document various obstacles and their solutions, in hope that if anyone else comes across a similar problem or is interested in a particular part that is used, they can use this as a reference. As always, if there is anything in this thread that one would like more info on, please feel free to ask.


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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Just wanted to see how 2F Performance 50mm overs fit... couldn't get the tape to hold the bottom against the body, so in the picture the bottom edge is out away from the body a few inches. Everything lines up very well with the body and the fender is thin, so it's very lightweight and flexible if one ever wanted to "pinch" the bottom in to gain some added width.

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street_240sx
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by street_240sx »

2fperformance is awesome, i know the owners. I cant wait til i can buy a super doof kit
03 evo8 gsr: stroker 2.3 ;)

04 evo8 gsr: totalled

96 integra gsr: sold

89 s13 coupe: stock dohc, gt3076, megasquirt

started 3/15/08, running 1/18/09, finally turbo 2/9/14 lmfao
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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The weather isn't ideal for painting at the moment, so to keep the momentum going, figured I'd start mapping out the plumbing and mounting locations for the accusump. Most of the "main" components are shown below and consist of:

-Canton Racing 3qt accusump (w/ 1/2" NPT female thread)
-MAX (PBM) oil filter relocation (w/ block adapters and male -10 AN fittings)
-Manual shut-off valve (1/2" NPT female threads on either end w/ 1/2" male thread adapter
-Canton Racing check valve (1/2" female NPT threads)
-Canton Racing "T" fitting w/ 1/2" male NPT and two male -10 AN threads)

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I'm looking to use the same Earl's oil cooler that was pictured earlier in the thread and find a suitable 4-port thermostat to accommodate it.

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