Junkyard Power steering delete brackets
Junkyard Power steering delete brackets
For all you guys who eliminated your power steering, this is a simple/cheap way to run a single belt for both your water pump and alternator.
parts needed:
SOHC Lower Alt bracket
SOHC Upper Alt bracket
SOHC water outlet (DOHC hits belt)
35" 3 rib belt
the water pump pulley and the outer most crank pulley are 3 rib but the alternator is 4 rib so you need to run it on the inner most set of ribs (as shown in the pics)
You'll need to use a spacer between the alternator and the upper alt. bracket. I used a exhaust manifold washer and it worked perfectly. you will also notice the belts will hit a certain spot on the upper alt bracket, but its nothing very minor grinding wont fix, you can see the spot on the 7th picture down.
The factory lower hose also lined up fine.
tested it to 8k+ rpm, with no issues.
Big thank you to my buddy Anthony (1991silvia), who is the one who figured out this setup.
parts needed:
SOHC Lower Alt bracket
SOHC Upper Alt bracket
SOHC water outlet (DOHC hits belt)
35" 3 rib belt
the water pump pulley and the outer most crank pulley are 3 rib but the alternator is 4 rib so you need to run it on the inner most set of ribs (as shown in the pics)
You'll need to use a spacer between the alternator and the upper alt. bracket. I used a exhaust manifold washer and it worked perfectly. you will also notice the belts will hit a certain spot on the upper alt bracket, but its nothing very minor grinding wont fix, you can see the spot on the 7th picture down.
The factory lower hose also lined up fine.
tested it to 8k+ rpm, with no issues.
Big thank you to my buddy Anthony (1991silvia), who is the one who figured out this setup.
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To line up correctly to the other belts, it needs to be on the ribs closest to the motor. Ive been meaning to see if the sohc crank pulley has a removable outer pulley like the twin cam one, and if it does, see if its 4 rib. If thats the case, you can make it a true 4 rib design also, just swap the water pump pulley to a SOHC one. Ill have to check it out.Craving4Boost wrote:hell yeah nice write up! but instead of grinding down the upper bracket...can't you juse use the outter most ribs of the alternator pulley? That would shift the belt towards the right correct? Unless that slight angle would not be fit for high rpms?? regardless...THANK YOU
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- 1wheelwonder
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sorry to bump an old thread but I just wanted to say I finished doing this today and it works great. The engine bay is so much cleaner now. I didn't get a chance to drive it much because the car is stuck behind a bunch of other cars. But I did move it back into my garage at very slow pace and the steering doesn't even seem that bad honestly. We'll see when I give it a spin tomorrow.
Only bad thing I can say is that I had to drain the coolant to change the water outlet. I was worried the RTV wouldn't harden if the housing was still moist. If your motor is already out then obviously you don't have to.
I would post up pictures but r@mon's pics are pretty clear cut.
Only bad thing I can say is that I had to drain the coolant to change the water outlet. I was worried the RTV wouldn't harden if the housing was still moist. If your motor is already out then obviously you don't have to.
I would post up pictures but r@mon's pics are pretty clear cut.
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also I weighed everything in this ghetto bag and it weight around 20-25lbs without the fluid. I also did not include the hardlines. This wasn't a very good scale neither so I'm not sure how accurate it is. I know wikipedia and stuff has the numbers also but I just wanted to give my input as well.
Going to be taking out my spare tire and jack tomorrow. Who needs a spare tire when you have cell phones
Going to be taking out my spare tire and jack tomorrow. Who needs a spare tire when you have cell phones
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Also, for the long bolt that connects the alternator to the lower bracket, the normal locking nut gets in the way of the bottom bolt of the bracket. If you guys see in r@mon's 8th picture, he uses a slimmer locking nut. I personally was lazy and just didn't put a 3rd bolt in. You guys think it will be ok? the 2 bolts holding it in feel really solid enough but damn the alternator is heavy....
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- rob 2fast4u
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what do you do to the lines of the steering rack? do you just conect the pressure and return lines together ?
fully built:
supertech 8.6:1
eagle H-beams
272BC cams
BC Dual springs
has t3/t04e 60trim need a bigger one for 25psi ???? s366 maybe
custom exh & intake manifolds
ebay ssqv bov
2.5"hotpipe, 3"coldpipe, Blow through MAF
AEM FIC,Zeitronix wideband, z32 maf
Bosch 1000cc inj, Twin walbro's, -8AN feed line,.... and lots more
supertech 8.6:1
eagle H-beams
272BC cams
BC Dual springs
has t3/t04e 60trim need a bigger one for 25psi ???? s366 maybe
custom exh & intake manifolds
ebay ssqv bov
2.5"hotpipe, 3"coldpipe, Blow through MAF
AEM FIC,Zeitronix wideband, z32 maf
Bosch 1000cc inj, Twin walbro's, -8AN feed line,.... and lots more
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- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
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the hard lines on the steering rack I took off 2 of them. I only took off 2 of them because those were the only ones I really had to take off. The extra 2 behind the steering rack didn't really bother me. When I took off the first 2 lines, I just found 2 fittings that were close enough. i don't really worry much about leaking because I drained it pretty much completely.rob 2fast4u wrote:what do you do to the lines of the steering rack? do you just conect the pressure and return lines together ?
Make sure you don't mess up the thread trying to find fittings because you never know when you're going to put it back in.