Supakat's Thread

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:49 am

I'm looking to spend a grand+ for a very good turbo that will last and give me 5-600. Later on I may wanna throw it on a mustang and add another to make twins. I saw those comp turbos. I haven't seen how the oilless turbos are holding up.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:33 am

My old school turbonetics t3t4 spins the same LENTH of time after the engines shut off. I don't think it would spool any easier. If the oil less units spin as good as my old school journal bearing, then any type of comp with any type of bearing should do pretty Damn good. I'd like to compare comp with the turbonetics low drag turbo and see witch one spools the easiest

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Fri Nov 07, 2014 10:44 am

Yea, comp's main pro is tbb. Read it up. http://compturbo.com/spotlights/oil-less
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Sat Nov 08, 2014 10:27 am

Thanks alonso. The auto crossmember worked like a charm. It was a bolt on affair. I only used some open ended stubby lug nut as washers between the member and body. I took the car around for a quick pull and tranny shift felt normal. Until tonight when I make a video, am I going to really test it out.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by adamky » Mon Nov 10, 2014 9:33 am

adamky wrote:I'm always confused when I hear about so many thermostat issues on these motors. I guess I've just been lucky, but I've only replaced my tstat 2 or 3 times in 13 years of ownership, and have never had an issue where I felt I needed to mod mine in any way. Does this become necessary with the extra heat from turbo components?
supakat wrote: What made me gut mine was the air pockets we generally see when we first startup after cooling system has been messed with. After I rebuilt this motor, I took it for a test drive and temps shot up. I then tried bleeding it and got fed up. I can get away with it since I rarely see below 50* weather.
I got ya. I never should have said anything because I jinxed myself by saying I hadn't had any issues with my thermostat. Doh! I was traveling down to my parents' lake house this weekend and realized that my car was running very cold... like 140 degrees. I'm 99% certain that my thermostat is stuck open. This was causing richer AFRs and higher than normal oil pressure. I had to use my redneck engineering and stick some cardboard in front of the radiator to block the cold air.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by trk240sx » Mon Nov 10, 2014 4:45 pm

I always drill a 1/16 or so hole in the thermostat. Helps get the air out and still normal operation.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Wed Nov 12, 2014 5:27 pm

Got a vid with my phone. Nothing special but I had to lower boost. With cold air, it spikes to 29-30psi and I loose fuel around 6k. It leans up to 12.2. I am trying for 11.5 in boost now with higher psi levels. So here is a 20psi run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uP8jp9 ... EnZcrlmaMA
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by schmauster920 » Wed Nov 12, 2014 5:33 pm

Wonder if youre maxing your injectors or fuel pump :)
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Wed Nov 12, 2014 6:34 pm

I don't believe so but I could be wrong.

I have Wally 400lph pump and 1600cc injectors. I have my base set for 50psi so in boost should be around 70psi in rail. I have the pressure but not flow. In low gears, I don't have this issue because I run through so quick cuz I am not able to use up all the fuel in the rail. But when I am longer in rpm band, I use up the fuel in the rail and it cannot feed it fast enough. I was thinking of keeping the stock hard lines still in place and install a next external pump and pull from sump or replace hard lines. Not sure yet. I don't want to spend to much on this issue right now.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by hotbox240 » Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:05 pm

Car pulls strong Supa. Us Canadian guys get a kick out of your "only 75 F" in November.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:17 pm

:dance: Yea, great weather down here. This summer is vice versa with the north. Didn't really get to drive the car because it rained so much. Winters are cool with dry weather. Perfect setup for us. 75* track days. Cool but not cold enough to get dew on the track for traction issues.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by ka240de » Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:56 pm

yeah no **** man i built a deck and installed exterior tougne&groove pine yesterday&today, today hit -25 celcius with the wind.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:29 am

Supa are you revving 8grand? Are you running a damper? Are you worried about vibration?

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:59 am

7200. Stock dampener. Not worried about vibration.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Mon Nov 17, 2014 6:19 am

Ten 4. Couldn't see the rpm Guage good.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:00 am

21 yr old tach shows 7500-7800. Guess he had too much to drink.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Mon Nov 17, 2014 3:57 pm

Looks like the rpm needle went the whole dash. I really don't know the s13 cluster. I figured that far in any other car would be around 8. Just curious because I've been reading up on the crankshaft situation and how to get more rpm if needed. Then I remembered seeing your video and needle went the whole dash. I'm guessing with the right head work and tune, you can push it more without a damper or the bc crank.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:28 pm

I would balance the crank and use ati dampener on bottom end. If I had money to throw away, knife edge the crank. On top, dual sprung, lightweight retainers with oversized lightweight valves. Again to rich for my blood. I would rather drop in a vq35.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:11 pm

I've heard guys talk of using the vq shim under buckets. I was thinking of bc springs with supertech buckets. Seems like a bunch of work to mix match parts

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:19 pm

I know we all like nissan but I'm really liking the 1j

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:40 am

1j is ok but harder and harder to find them in the junkyard. Vq30 are available now but in a few years, 35's will be rampant.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:56 am

Well i figured since 99% of the guys says you have to pUT pistons and rods in or you most likely will blow past 10psi or over 400hp. I might as well get fun inline. I've read the 1jz more affordable to build then the 2jz, plenty of aftermaket parts. All of our engines at the pick n pulls are cheap. But when it comes to a 350 or 370z, the price goes up. We pay regular price for any 5.3 v8. I think around 200 bucks or Lil less. Those truck motors are plentiful around here.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:19 am

:cool: I've seen a few times where people say stick with a ka because it's plentiful and cheap to build. Must be pretty Damn well off. Sure you can find plenty of blown ka. refreshed price is 500 to 1000. And the cheap part is what im still trying to understand. Yep its cheap to do a budget 300hp build with used turbo parts. But to be some what reliable and make good power I don't consider it cheap. In the end it's cost 5 grand from front to back. Now I'm upgrading the tranny and turbo. I'll have around 7k or better tied up in it. And this is just the drive tran. I'm almost done and ready to move on to another build. I'm weighing my options on what to blow another 7or 10grand in. Buy a car already done or start from scratch.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:47 am

Yea, to each their own. I probably won't build another motor cuz a vq can handle 500whp stock block. You don't need any more power than that on the street.
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:59 am

Yep. Next time bigger and simple. The first build has learned me a lot. Best bang for my buck. Bigger engine,less boost,more or eQual power without opening the motor.

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by TrackStarGT » Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:34 am

cham wrote::cool: I've seen a few times where people say stick with a ka because it's plentiful and cheap to build. Must be pretty Damn well off. Sure you can find plenty of blown ka. refreshed price is 500 to 1000. And the cheap part is what im still trying to understand. Yep its cheap to do a budget 300hp build with used turbo parts. But to be some what reliable and make good power I don't consider it cheap. In the end it's cost 5 grand from front to back. Now I'm upgrading the tranny and turbo. I'll have around 7k or better tied up in it. And this is just the drive tran. I'm almost done and ready to move on to another build. I'm weighing my options on what to blow another 7or 10grand in. Buy a car already done or start from scratch.

cheap can be a relative term. 10K is cheap when compared to 100K. I have 10-12K in my 240 including the car. imagine what I would have in a porsche, corvette, new camaro, supra, new evo, new wrx, RX-7...you're going to have 12-30K in just the car in most of those..So I would say that this route is much cheaper, even with a 1K turbo
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:06 am

We're talking about 240s only. I know other cars cost a hell of a lot more to mod. When I beat an 09 m3 the owner told me how much it cost to add a supercharger or turbo and I was like hell no. I'd custom fab it myself now that I've moded my car in the back yard. Just dumping 10k into a 240 ain't cheap to me. Then I have the interior and exterior next. My classmates uncle had a GTR. He got rid of it for a lambo that's done up with twins from underground. YOUR income and budget to me defines cheap or not. I'm only aorund 50,000 a year before kids and taxes so 10,000 plus on my 4 banger toy ain't cheap but very duable. My friends uncle makes a hell of a lot more so 100.000 on a twin turbo set alone is different for him. No big deal or problem. I'm just at the point of deciding my next project and what motor should I use to get streetable, usable power. I think I can make decent power with a lager engine without a full internal build for the same 10k is the main thing. Knowledge is power and can save money. Having a shop, knowing how to weld and assemble a motor I think is why some guys say it's cheap. Having a friend with all of this is even better. Then I could just help and drink beer

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by cham » Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:15 am

My son will be done with school in a few years. I'm seriously thinking about getting a mustang. I'm putting up play money. A 5.0 should be very affordable by then. I go to mustang week every year. 75% of those guys had the on 3 twin kits. Those kits are affordable and proven on the track. We're in the middle of putting one on my buddies car. He hooked up with a guy that's sponsored by a few different companies and the on 3 guys

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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by ka240de » Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:14 pm

my best pal , we went to 3 events this year together he drifts a 1983 foxbody 5.0l with the single 76mm on 3 kit. at 6 psi
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Re: Supakat's Thread

Post by supakat » Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:35 am

Little update. Well I screwed myself before the street races. About 2 weeks ago, I was getting lean under full boost at 25+ psi. I backed down the boost to 20psi to be safe. But when I played with the boost map, I actually was only making 18psi from 4k to 5500. After that it would shoot to 22psi which was good. At the races, I took data logs from each run. After viewing my AFR's and boost levels, I was able to get back to 25psi with good afr's due to e85 winter blend. To hold me over until I redo my fuel system, I will put 1 gal of 93 and 9 gal of e85 in the summer blend to make the afr's richer. I also noticed my MAT's were high after the run. I am going to put back on my cold air pipe and see what happens. When doing pulls on the street, I do not have MAT issues but at track while staging, I did not open my hood. We also had to idle quite a bit until they staged us.

I am not making any excuses. I have the data at my fingertips, now just to put it to good use.

This was the last run of the night against a B14 SR NEO. He said he ran mid 11's with this setup in his B13 with slightly less power than what he had now. All in all, I am happy I was able to make a few passes, get data, improve the car, and drive back home safely.

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