rotrex supercharger build...resurrected

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KA4LIFE
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rotrex supercharger build...resurrected

Post by KA4LIFE » Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:49 pm

fully built motor:
arias 8.8 .020 over
eagle rods
clevite bearings
o and j stage 2 cam
o and j mech lifters
stiffer valve springs
stainless valves

fuel:
walbro 255
tomei fpr
d-works 750cc injectors
z32 fuel filter

other stuff:
ati super damper(in case anyone plans on running this the tdc mark is not really the tdc it must be marked for a sr or something)
new alt &starter
oil filter relocation kit
new oil pump and drive gear
intake plenum shaved of mostly everything

still need my supercharger (ordering this week) I also need to get my hands on fuel/ignition management. i plan on running a map sensor and cop. probably going to end up with aem ems.
Last edited by KA4LIFE on Thu May 02, 2013 3:16 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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Post by koukidriver » Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:51 pm

Don't worry about it took me 3 years for my build to get done mostly due to cost but its better to do it right the first time then having to go back later many times over. Looking really clean nice build,man !!!

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Post by 2389cc_S14 » Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:52 am

Sweet build. Lovin the paint scheme too!

That crank pulley is "NOT FOR THE POOR" lol
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Post by KA4LIFE » Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:46 pm

2389cc_S14 wrote:Sweet build. Lovin the paint scheme too!

That crank pulley is "NOT FOR THE POOR" lol
thanks, that pulley wasnt cheap but neither will be the next purchase. i will update you guys in about a week or so when i get my charger and ecu in.

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Post by KA4LIFE » Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:26 pm

EDIT
Last edited by KA4LIFE on Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by nelson240sx » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:15 am

this build looks interesting....Keep her going.
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:27 am

How much was the charger? Im so tempted to do a daily driver with a charger.
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Post by all shal perrish » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:28 am

you just got my interest !
sick.
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Post by Kamilitaryman » Thu Sep 23, 2010 8:29 am

nelson240sx wrote:this build looks interesting....Keep her going.
Yea this is definately a 1st here on ka-t.org as far as I know, but I may be wrong. I wonder what kind of numbers this thing is going to make. Very very interested in the outcome of this! Keep it coming man!
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Post by bakadrift » Thu Sep 23, 2010 2:46 pm

He payed around $2600 for the rotrex. It is going to turn quite a few heads. And yeah we have never heard of anyone else doing this on a ka either.

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Post by TheOne » Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:00 pm

interesting build....i'd like to see a dyno sheet of it, at least you can run a fmic with this unlike the much harder to do roots style.

don't believe i've seen a ka with it, some fab that you'll have to do.

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Post by Jordan Gladman » Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:41 pm

Looks pretty easy IMO. Just mount it where the factory AC unit sits on the SOHC, done.
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Post by KA4LIFE » Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:09 pm

Jordan Gladman wrote:How much was the charger? Im so tempted to do a daily driver with a charger.
They make a bunch of different sizes so if you wanted to do it as a daily it is definitely possible. I do plan to put it where the ac goes.

Fab wont be that hard just a mounting plate, idler pulley and belt. No more than the guys that do a m90 charger(probably less, they need 2 custom plates). Intercooler piping which is usually custom for our cars anyway and management, which will probably be the new PnP AEM, coil pack ignition(not sure if i can get a crank sensor situated but can run the dizzy if need be) and map sensor. Plan on mid 400 for now but eventually i might push the envelope and switch pulleys to go higher just to see what this thing is capable of.

Currently working on picking a intercooler. will probably go smaller than the usuall 400 hp build just because this unit shouldnt produce heat like a turbo of similar size and it has its own self contained oiling system with cooler which should keep temps down. I figure if i get a good intake setup getting some cooler air (probably hood scoop design) it should be sufficient with a smaller intecooler. Any info regarding this wil be great.

If anyone is subscribed to modified, last issue(i think it was last) has 2 articles on guys running rotrex powered k20? time attack hondas. one pushing 400? they just said it was in the 400 range and another around 350.

For the record the only 240 that is known to me that has ever run a rotrex was a twin charged (turbo/rotrex) sr20 s15. the name of the company doesnt come to mind. im sure a few people here know who did it. Its what got me thinking in the first place

If anyone is interested the company i got it from is Kraftwerks they are in cali. There website has some s2000 and miata dyno sheets available.

THX for all the interest and i hope to not to let you guys down i will probably update with my next purchase or of some fab work. Can someone tell me the cost of a turbo able to make avg of 400 hp, mani,WG, down pipe,oil feed line, and oil drain and anything else turbo specific. All brand new of course. I think i will end up spending less money than an equivelent turbo setup not that it matters just interested.

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Post by KA4LIFE » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:29 pm

Progress thus far. Dont mind the wood and screwdriver holding things up. That plate is just made of some thin sheetmetal. I made a thicker one out of aluminum but didnt take any pics. I test fitted it on my buddies car and it fits like a glove plenty of room everywhere. Im having a plate c&c'd as i write this and should have something back early next week. FYI if anyone plans on running the ati super damper im pretty sure the belt grooves wont line up correctly. It looks like the ati pulley is sunk in 1 rib to far so i will verify this once i get a belt on there. I may have to shim the pulley out or something.
Last edited by KA4LIFE on Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by flipboi96zx » Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:41 am

single cam loveee

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Post by KA4LIFE » Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:14 pm

Its been a rough winter here in jesey and i finally had some time to work on this thing so here are some before and after pics. I plan on getting it running on thurs with the stock ecu without the charger for break in. I still need to order some other things anyway so that will give me some time.

out with the old dual cam
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before a complete wire wheeling and before rattle can paintjob
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random motor pic
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new hotness
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Post by TinyT » Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:04 pm

nice! Im excited to see what its going to put down.
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Post by Liteemup39496 » Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:57 am

damn nice sohc, where in jersey are you i'd like to see this first hand

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Post by adamky » Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:09 am

Cool project. That supercharger is so compact.
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Post by KoukiKAT » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:25 am

I'll bet you're going the love the driveability of that setup. Your setup looks awesome. Very different.
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:48 am

Looks super clean... nice work.

I'd be tempted to make a stealthy black cover for the SC and get the intercooler anodized black. People will think you're running a 100whp stock SOHC and you'll blow them out of the water. Cool setup.

Im actually very tempted to jack your idea for my SOHC S14... it would help save weight.
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Post by Kamilitaryman » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:10 am

So clean! Woot! I can't wait to see this thing finished!
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:18 am

I just got a vortech charger for my SOHC and was looking over your pics to see how you belted yours. Just thought I'd throw out some advice.

Image

Most kits would recommended a timing belt for SC operation because of the load put on the belt and possiblity of slippage. Judging by the nature of the contact between the belt and your crank pulley you may way to reconcider your design here. I would suspect your crank pulley is going to slip within the belt under load. It would probably be best to run the SC off of the AC cog on the pulley or add another timing belt pulley to the front of the main pulley and move the SC forward. Im sure the idler pulley you've added will help increase contact area, but I personally would still want to see 40%+ contact with the pulley surface on the crank. The SC will draw far more torque from the crank than all the other accessories combined.
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Post by KA4LIFE » Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:55 pm

Thanks for the interest everyone. Liteemup, im in zip 07735 literally 2 min of exit 117 if your gonna be in the area anytime send me a pm and we can swap info. Otherwise i should be at some of the meets up on rt 1 when the season starts back up.

I have the same concern as you do jordan. I couldnt find anyone willing to make me a custom 6 rib pulley for the outer most part of the crank . The ati damper has the option to bolt up the 3rd part of the crank pulley and i lready called them to see if they made a 6 rib extension. They do not.
I could run it on a seperate 3 rib belt on the inner most part of the crank pulley and make the idler a tensioner that should give me alot more belt around both the charger and the crank.
I need to make sure there is no movement on the charger mount before i take it off to make any changes . If there is i need to get some bracing welded on it.
I am going to run the motor with the charger set up as is during break in. The charger wont actually be hooked up to the intake but just sitting there pumping air. I want to make sure my motor is all squared away beore i go and slam it with boost. I plan to drive it ~1-2k before boost so that will give me some time to see how it acts.

Again thanks for the interest and ideas keep them coming.

ps i should have it running by sat. I had to order a sohc header and some misc stuff, and it decided to snow/sleet/hail/rain and crap for the past 2 days so that held me back some.
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:39 am

Interesting, you could always have a local machine shop turn a pulley to bolt onto the crank. I know the ATI is good piece of mind, but I've never personally had any problems running the Ebay pulleys. I was thinking I could just machine off the PS rungs and make a bolt on pulley to run the charger, but I guess if everything works out for you, it would probably be fine for me too. I'll be watching your results carefully. Should be exciting.
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Post by KA4LIFE » Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:47 pm

Well first start up was a no go. I just remembered that i didn't hook up the ground from the back of the cylinder head to the firewall. Could this cause a no start? Im going to do some more poking around tomorrow after work so hopefully i figure it out.

ps f*** cold weather.
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Post by TheOne » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:00 pm

if you don't have all your grounds the stater may not have enough power to turn the engine fast enough to start.

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Post by KA4LIFE » Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:57 pm

Well I hooked up the ground and still nothing. If I unplug the injectors and spray starting fluid in the intake I can almost get it started. it stumbles but wont fully start which is kind of expected. I pulled the rail with injectors and turned the ignition on and there were no leaks. I have spark and I've triple checked my timing, cam and ignition.

I have a tomei fpr and when I turn the ignition on it goes up to ~40psi then drops down to ~20psi. Is there any way it wouldn't start if the fuel pressure was off by a little? I have yet to check it while cranking.

Im gonna post a pic of my injectors when I get home because I don't think they are stock. they look different than the originals. What is the biggest injector I could run before it wouldn't start on a stock sohc?

I will post some pics a little later. THX
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Post by sh1tsweak » Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:13 pm

whats your fp while cranking? its going to drop down a bit with just the key on after the pump stops priming, its bleeding back through the fuel pump. are the injectors firing? pull the rail/injectors out and turn it over? or if you have a niod light to put inplace of the injectors? is this a stock engine harness? i know on the dual cams the ground by the injectors at the front of the motor will keep the injectors from firing of it isnt hooked up.

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Post by KA4LIFE » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:15 pm

im gonna quadruple check my timing because ive had trouble with that on previous 240's and hopefully the dizzy shaft is just a tooth off or something. im gonna get the noid light out as well just to verify the injectors are firing.

Does anyone know the order of the injector wire colors from front to back. i know the colors of all the wires i just want to make sure that the injector plugs are on the correct injector.

Can anyone identify that injector. I purchased them used and i know they dont look like the stock sohc injectors(which i no longer have but can swap out of a running motor if need be ) but figured anythng would be better than my 750's

And yes i put my wiper motor on wrong because now they reset to the up position instead of down. FML

THX again for the suggestions

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