rotrex supercharger build...resurrected

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Jordan Gladman
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:06 am

Flip the plug wires 180 on the cap, You have to make sure the rotor is hitting the no1 plug when the bottom AND top end are at TDC. If you just move all the plugs over 2 places you can check this without pulling anything apart. The motor flips twice for every 1 turn of the cam so you can have the bottom end lined up and not have the correct position on the distributor.
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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Mar 29, 2011 10:24 am

Jordan, that was one of the first things i tried before i took off the valve cover. Then i took off the cover just to verify everything was timed right and it is. I took out #1 spark plug brought cyl #1 up to tdc on compression (all valves were closed and the dot on the cam gear was flush with the head, ~3 oclock) and made sure the rotor was pointing to cyl 1 which is ~ 4-430 on the dizzy. I did find another ground i forgot but that didnt change anything.
I have fuel(pulled the rail and all injectors are firing nicely). I have spark (used a spark tester and spark jumps ~1/2 an inch). Could my o and j stage 2 cam be stopping it from starting? whenever i pull the plugs after an attempt at starting they are soaked with fuel. But then again the car isnt starting so i guess that would be normal.
I do have all emissions removed but that shouldnt make any difference. im gonna look to see if my ecu is throwing any codes, which im sure it is. Ive had every sensor under the hood unpluged at least once.

Back to the drawing board.
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:38 am

If the plugs are getting wet, unplug the injectors and let it crank, if it fires up for a second. it could be your injectors over working and spraying too much fuel. Bad FPR or MAF signal?
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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:48 am

I think im getting to much fuel. Like I said before I don't know what size injectors are in there because I picked them up used (there is a pic a few posts up). Will a stock sohc run on anything bigger than stock injectors? The sohc fires all injectors at the same time correct? That's what mine is doing and I have no ecu trouble codes.
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Post by Liteemup39496 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:53 am

i got stock injectors if you need em. im about a 30-40 min ride from you
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Post by nis720 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:44 pm

Those diffinetely look like stock injectors.

Here's a pic i took of my stock one.

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This may sound silly but do you have the orange wire (on the white plug leading to the cluster) for the ECU hooked up to the starter signal?
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Post by Liteemup39496 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:03 pm

check the part # stamped in the rim of the injectors,

honestly i do not know i never disconnected my interior harness. and im currently at my desk till 5pm
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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:36 pm

When I swapped harnesses I took the brown cluster connector off the dual cam harness and swapped it to the sohc harness. I didn't cut the wires I just unpluged each wire from the connector and matched them up to the cluster harness under the dash. The are some that are left over and some that don't have a matching color. I know orange is matched to orange and there are probably 5 other wires that matched up.

I can get my car to just about run on starting fluid,so I know I have spark. Plus I tested every wire with a spark tester. I know my timing is correct I've checked it about a dozen times and even tried changing the timing by taking the oil pump off and moving the shaft a tooth in either direction and still nothing.

I even went through the trouble of hooking up the timing light and turned the crank by hand to make sure it was firing cyl 1at tdc and it is.

I have fuel because I tested every injector with a noid light then pulled the the rail and let them fire. No leaks when the ign is off and they fire great when ign is turned on. It must be something electrical but what would be stopping it from starting?
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Post by sh1tsweak » Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:05 pm

does it sounds like it wants to start at all without the starting fluid or does it just spin over as if its got 0 fuel or spark? are you next to pride performance?? mike burke picked up stock de fuel injectors from me for your car one day,..i could come by one day next week and check it out with ya if ya want....theres something simple thats being overlooked.

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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:34 pm

sh1tsweak you have a pm. THX
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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:48 pm

well i found out why it doesn't start. The dizzy Ive been using is either busted or the wrong style. I have the mitsu dizzy on there but when i swapped it out with a known good hitachi it started right up. So like i said either they aren't interchangeable or the mitsu is bad. So if anyone has a hitachi dizzy they are willing to let go i really need one.

Just to make sure im correct the, mitsu has the skinnier looking rotor and the hitachi has the fat obese looking one correct? There is a pic of the dizzy on my motor with the cap off in one of my previous posts.

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Post by Liteemup39496 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:54 pm

yo get this bad boy going ima have an s13 meet at my place in parsippany.
you guys goin to streetwars this weekend?
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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:58 pm

I'm not going but i know a few others that are if this thing was up and running i would consider it but its not. And im definitely not rolling up in a Saturn wagon. FTL.. If you know anyone with a dizzy let me know.
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Post by Liteemup39496 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 4:06 pm

i dont know anyone else with a sohc s13, id be happy to help

try www.car-part.com junkyard database

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Last edited by Liteemup39496 on Wed Apr 13, 2011 4:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by bakadrift » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:24 pm

Problem confirmed to be a bad distributor. Mine rushed in to save the day. Huzzah!!

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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Apr 12, 2011 10:06 pm

^^^your an idiot. Just felt I needed to say that.
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Post by KA4LIFE » Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:22 pm

Well the car is up and running i have ~50 miles on the new motor with no issues yet. I will say this o and j stage 2 cam makes it idle rough but that was expected. Im probably gonna give it 1500 miles before boost so im gonna order my intercooler, piping, gauges in a few days. Ill post back if something goes wrong or its boosted. THX
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Post by turbonola » Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:06 pm

pics
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Post by KA4LIFE » Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:20 pm

yeah im working on it. I was gonna take some but figured not much has changed since the last ones. I will take some for now then post up again when i get my ic hooked up. I still have to weld up some bracing for my sc bracket and finish some little ods and ends.
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Post by KA4LIFE » Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:49 pm

Crappy cell pics but whatever. Its got 180 miles on it and so far so good. I have a vibration issue that i cant seem to figure out though. It has excessive vibrations at 1600rpm and 2600rpm and i dont know why. FYI this o and j stage 2 cam blows while running na. That may have something to do with the weird vibrations but i dont know.

Right now the charger is not being belt driven. i tried driving it with it hooked up but it was super loud and i wouldve got pulled over so i decided to disconnect it. I am also back to running a stock rad because i managed to hit a massive puddle/river during a rain storm doing about 35-40(it was during the night and i didnt see it) and put a pinhole in my brand new koyo (the oil cooler got pushed into the rad) . I couldnt find someone willing to braze/weld it up so i JB welded it. That will be going back on soon.

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Post by Jus14 » Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:38 pm

sorry to hear about the radiator but it still looks clean cant wait to see it with charger hooked up
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Post by Inferno s14 » Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:31 pm

neat neat.

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Post by sh1tsweak » Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:41 pm

is it a vibration or is it stumbleing? maybe put the stock damper back on if its a vibration. was the motor balanced? what motor/trans mounts do you have?

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Post by KA4LIFE » Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:08 pm

vibration and not a good noise. It does stumble at idle but i blame the stage 2 cam on stock ecu(i could be wrong) It's at its worst at 1600 and 2600 rpm consistently. you can feel it through the whole car(shifter, seat, ect) if i just sit it at 2600. I have the ati super damper on there now. I would have to check to see if my stock one is still good. i have the jgs rubber mounts for my motor and trans and they were used with the dohc that i took out. I know what harder mounts feel like and this is far more than that.

Motor balancing may be where its screwed, but how would i test for that? Only the crank was balanced. I didnt have the rods and pistons at the time i took it to the machinist. When i got them i just gave them to him to put the pistons on the rods. then i slapped it all together and called it a day.

Is it typical to have a piston rod combo that will be that far out of balance?

my other buddy has a sohc with the same iternals (arias pistons, eagle rods) and took it to the same machinist and also only had the crank balanced. He has no vibration/noise issues.

I still drive it. I have 300 miles on it now. Im not saying its good to be driving but thats my only vehicle. if it blows im out of the game so im hoping i can fix it before that happens.
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Post by RedAggie03 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:34 am

oh man I want this in my truck...good information - keep up the good work!
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Post by Kamilitaryman » Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:30 pm

KA4LIFE wrote:vibration and not a good noise. It does stumble at idle but i blame the stage 2 cam on stock ecu(i could be wrong) It's at its worst at 1600 and 2600 rpm consistently. you can feel it through the whole car(shifter, seat, ect) if i just sit it at 2600. I have the ati super damper on there now. I would have to check to see if my stock one is still good. i have the jgs rubber mounts for my motor and trans and they were used with the dohc that i took out. I know what harder mounts feel like and this is far more than that.

Motor balancing may be where its screwed, but how would i test for that? Only the crank was balanced. I didnt have the rods and pistons at the time i took it to the machinist. When i got them i just gave them to him to put the pistons on the rods. then i slapped it all together and called it a day.

Is it typical to have a piston rod combo that will be that far out of balance?

my other buddy has a sohc with the same iternals (arias pistons, eagle rods) and took it to the same machinist and also only had the crank balanced. He has no vibration/noise issues.

I still drive it. I have 300 miles on it now. Im not saying its good to be driving but thats my only vehicle. if it blows im out of the game so im hoping i can fix it before that happens.
Double check your pressure plate and clutch and make sure everything is snug and aligned properly. It's the only thing I can think of as the same thing happened to me with my Impreza. Turned out all the vibration was caused by a misaligned pressure plate. I am not sure how residual unbalance works on the KA but I would love to find out....
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Post by KA4LIFE » Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:53 pm

i am running a 350z clutch and pressure plate from JWT and a SPEC rb20 flywheel. They could only mate together one way, they had alignment dowels. If they were causing an out of balance wouldnt it vibrate all the time? I torqued the pressure plate bolts to oe specs and used blue locktite. I did the same for the flywheel as well. If it is something clutch/flywheel/PP related that would suck.
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Post by Jus14 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 10:33 pm

Couple things....i know alot of people have to take there rods and pistons to the builder to check for clearances did you do that or did you at least do thatyourself? and do you have a stock driveshaft if so i would guess your carrier bearing may be worn causing the vibes or possibly a mis aligned trans mount?
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:57 pm

Haha, love the cooling plate. So suiting, didnt realize you were the one that bought it!
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Post by KA4LIFE » Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:43 pm

all measurements were taken care of by the builder. I have a 1 piece drive shaft so it cant be the bearing. Yupper that was i that bought the plate. I love it and i already got some good compliments from it. Im kind of over the vibration issue. i got someone else to take a look at it and some of the noise is coming from the supercharger bracket vibrating unnecessarily. I need to get some bracing welded up to it then hopefully that will fix most of it.
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