Takata green ??????

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Bonomoskat
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Takata green ??????

Post by Bonomoskat » Sat Apr 09, 2011 10:53 pm

gotta match my takata te's!!
just finished my cage ! now im getting my engine bay ready to paint then my cage!


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Post by turbonola » Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:41 am

build looks awesome man
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Post by Bonomoskat » Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:08 pm

heres the tubs finished only took 10 hours baller! Now im gonna fit everything then paint it takata green!

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Post by Jus14 » Sun Apr 10, 2011 10:05 pm

Love it cant wait til i get ballzy enough to do a tub...
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Post by 240KA » Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:39 pm

ugh i want tubs so bad. you doing the fab work yourself?

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Post by TinyT » Wed Apr 13, 2011 7:18 am

240KA wrote:ugh i want tubs so bad. you doing the fab work yourself?
dont want, just do it. find a buddy with a welder and cut that bay up!
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Post by Bonomoskat » Wed Apr 13, 2011 3:25 pm

we might make templates and sell them but iono yet

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Post by CINCYS13 » Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:08 pm

To be dead honest I am really suprised nobody does that yet.

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Post by tom550 » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:22 pm

ok so why does every one spot weld the tubs? just too lazy to fully weld them?
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Post by TinyT » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:59 pm

tom550 wrote:ok so why does every one spot weld the tubs? just too lazy to fully weld them?
Dont talk down to people when you yourself cant do the thing you are talking about

A. You dont know he is not going to fully weld it
B. It is more than structurally sound with stitch welds opposed to full welds.
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Post by tom550 » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:01 pm

how was i talking down. ive seen a few builds where they just spot welded, and was wondering why.
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Post by TinyT » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:03 pm

tom550 wrote:how was i talking down. ive seen a few builds where they just spot welded, and was wondering why.
you referred to it as being lazy rather than just asking why its not fully welded. dont back pedal.
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Post by tom550 » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:12 pm

yea lazy as in did you not want to weld the whole thing. you said spot welds make it structurally sound so saying you didnt want to fully weld it cuz its just as strong with spot would have answered me. its not like i said you should have fully welded it cuz now its not as strong. or anything like that. i just asked why.

your telling me to learn more about cars and yet you sit there and cause this crap when you could have just done a simple answer. :roll:
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Post by Aaj2k5 » Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:21 am

TinyT wrote:
tom550 wrote:ok so why does every one spot weld the tubs? just too lazy to fully weld them?
Dont talk down to people when you yourself cant do the thing you are talking about

A. You dont know he is not going to fully weld it
B. It is more than structurally sound with stitch welds opposed to full welds.
Yes stitch welds are more structurally sound than perimeter. However, those spot tack welds are not stitch welds. Which he still may be doing but then you get into intersection of welds and thats a whole different issue.

Either way, they will be strong enough for what its purpose is.
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Post by KoukiKAT » Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:37 am

The primary reason why you tack weld sheet metal is to prevent distortion along the panel length and width. If you tried to weld a continuous bead, the heat that you put into the panel could warp it. If you tack it, you put just down just enough to mechanically fasten it all along its edges. I've seen short < 1" weld along the periphery as well. I imagine you could do that, then go back and back fill if you wanted. It would be time consuming to go slowly and with low heat, small rod to avoid warping. Or you could just seal it with auto body sealant and paint over it. Maybe spray line the fender and call it a day. It would only be stronger under destructive deformation (crash) if it was fully welded vs. adequately spot or stitch welded.

I've met tom550. He climbs at the same gym as I do. He's a good guy, and I don't think he means to be disrespectful in any way. I think that's indicated when he poses questions rather than makes statements and tempered by the fact that when he refers to laziness, he's most likely being self referential, thinking, "If I (tom550) was going to weld tubs in my 240, I could save some work by spot tacking the panels." = "Lazy" in his own vernacular. Also, he's like 18. I know now that I didn't know crap back then and that some of the stuff that came out of my mouth didn't alway have its exact intended effects. It happens. Move on.

Let's not bicker. I enjoy this forum without it. Be constructive and helpful, even when it's intended as a "corrective" action, please.
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Post by KoukiKAT » Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:39 am

Oh, and John: mellow there buddy. :)
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Post by Aaj2k5 » Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:09 am

+1 for taking the time to measure and sharpie to evenly space them though. Most people just go at it and it ends up looking weaksauce.
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Post by souljaseth33 » Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:29 am

Wanna come cage and tub my coupe next? Lol :wink:

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Post by TinyT » Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:44 am

KoukiKAT wrote: Let's not bicker. I enjoy this forum without it. Be constructive and helpful, even when it's intended as a "corrective" action, please.
Dont even start with the preaching. /end threadjack
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Post by katrecipe » Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:03 am

I think the spot welded tubs look great!!
+1 on the progress i to will be looking to tub the front end just waiting for extra money.
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Post by tom550 » Thu Apr 14, 2011 3:58 pm

Thanks for answering me. :)
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Post by Bonomoskat » Fri Apr 15, 2011 6:58 pm

thanks !

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Post by Nathan » Fri Apr 15, 2011 7:28 pm

green te's r sick (r those 18s?)
Like the tubs and cage, keep up the good work and post pics.
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Post by Bonomoskat » Sun Apr 17, 2011 5:35 pm

yep 18x9.5 +12 18x10.5+15 and thanks i will

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Post by Motegi » Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:04 pm

KoukiKAT wrote:The primary reason why you tack weld sheet metal is to prevent distortion along the panel length and width. If you tried to weld a continuous bead, the heat that you put into the panel could warp it. If you tack it, you put just down just enough to mechanically fasten it all along its edges. I've seen short < 1" weld along the periphery as well. I imagine you could do that, then go back and back fill if you wanted. It would be time consuming to go slowly and with low heat, small rod to avoid warping. Or you could just seal it with auto body sealant and paint over it. Maybe spray line the fender and call it a day. It would only be stronger under destructive deformation (crash) if it was fully welded vs. adequately spot or stitch welded.
Agreed.

Also... This build looks exciting! Great work so far!

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Post by Bonomoskat » Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:15 pm

primered ready for paint tomorrow!!



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Post by k12ispl » Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:14 am

looking good
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Post by Bonomoskat » Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:00 pm

the green machine

came out realll good

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Post by souljaseth33 » Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:53 am

Deff looking sick dude.

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Post by Bonomoskat » Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:05 pm

thanks man! ill have the motor in and all clean as hell this weekend

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