SuperDorifto's Overbuilt KA24DE - T Project

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SuperDorifto's Overbuilt KA24DE - T Project

Post by superDorifto » Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:11 pm

Updated the tital again - I sold all of my supercharger stuff and have gone back to a T28R set up - Updated the title to reflect the new direction my project has taken in the last few months. pretty much the same build as before, but instead of a Disco Potato - I'm using the standard Nissan/Eaton M62 supercharger.

Sorry for the long intro, after this the plan is to try and keep the updates pic heavy...

Its been a LONG time since I've had anything to post on the boards. My last s14, was totalled by a little old lady running stop sign way back in 2007. Since then I've had a Lexus SC300, which sucked...and a 2004 GTO, which did not suck. All to find myself back with another 240, this time a 97, and begining another KA build. The main difference being that I know have a job that pays well enough to afford to do things right the first time.

My plan is to over build, and shoot for as much power as I can push outta the M62.

Engine management:
AEM EMS - snagged one of the last OBDII v!s that enjuku had, really kicked my build into overdrive.

Quick parts run down:

- picked up a couple M62's and the mounting plate for the charger
- clevite bearings
- was gonna go with ams sportman rods, but since they are bitches, it looks like eagles are goin in...still need to buy
- picked up a set of lightly used Wisecos
- ARP Head studs - still need to buy
- ARP main studs
- new oem oil pump and timing assembly - still need to buy
- picked up a white bunny combo (OEM D21 flywheel/stock excedy NA Z32 clutch)
- I'm mounting a air to water intercooler in the intake manifold - see my thread in the fab section)
- also picked up a set of 6 550cc side feeds (they came of a z32 build)
- Going to remote mount the battery - still need to buy
- also remote mounting the oil filter with a thermostat controlled dedicated cooler - still need to buy

Stopped by Accurate Auto Machine in Middletown CT for chat about my project.

Got a quote on the machine work for the KA...very reasonable considering. If everything comes back in spec, which I'm expecting it to, I'm only looking at ~$300 including a hone, new valve seals, and helicoils in the head to keep the godamned valve cover bolts from stripping.

Ended up talking to one of the guys in the shop, and he is building a VH50 for a future 240swap. I found is build thread on NICO, so hopefully he'll poke his head in to my build thread.

This will be the 3rd motor that I've had pass through this shop, I highly recommend them to anybody in central CT. They're a bit old school, but if you walk in knowing exactly what you want they'll do the work. Bad news for the SR guys tho - they don't do the cryo work for the valve guides.

End of update (7/16/2011)

But enough about the pipe dreams....

I've had this Kouki for a few weeks now and have fallen back in love with s14s.
The original plan was to keep it as a 2nd summer daily driver along side the GTO...that all changed last week. I sent the GTO on its way, and have decided to focus all of my attention on making this car exactly what I want it to be....

I do plan on systematically attacking every system on this car, fixing whats wrong, improving whats left, and overall making it a better car than it ever was when it left the factory.

Working as an engineer for a company that makes jet engines, specifically the external systems (air, fuel, lube, and electrical) for the last few years has given me a new appreciation for what a, "clean" enigne can and should be...

I'll have pics motor after I pick it back up from the shop - right now it looks exactly like the other 2 KA's that are in pieces in my basement

since this is a pic thread i give you...a pic of my fat ass filling up for the first time, and pics of the goodies that I have been accumulating for it...

Enjoy:

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Upcoming project - ignore the caliper paint in the back ground, got a good quote on local powder coating today...wrinkle red:

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For the long ride home everyday:- hopefully I'll have this installed today.

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Last edited by superDorifto on Thu Feb 16, 2012 5:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by mxsx25 » Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:44 pm

Looks like this is going to be a great build definately curious to see your idea for the bmc good luck!
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Post by Jus14 » Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:22 pm

sweet i can only imagine the ideas you have in mind for this ...now lets see some action! LOL
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Post by superDorifto » Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:03 pm

managed to pick up the rest of the z32 ebrake hardware minus the cables for close to nothing today...gonna try and drop the calipers off for powder coat this Friday.

dropping the KA off at the machine shop the same day...more pics to follow.

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Post by emo_tactical9 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:54 pm

I would go with something different than a disco potato. They are not even that good for an SR. I would do a 2871 at the smallest.
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Post by superDorifto » Thu Apr 28, 2011 6:34 pm

The more research I do, the more inclined I am to agree with you. THe standard DP is gonna spool way too quick, got some decisions to make.

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Post by sdaigle240 » Thu Apr 28, 2011 7:23 pm

CABLES FROM Z1 MOTORSPORTS
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Post by mo_hish » Thu Apr 28, 2011 8:53 pm

So you got rid of your 2004 GTO for this?

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Post by superDorifto » Sat Apr 30, 2011 3:58 pm

I didn't sell the GTO to fund this project, I bought the 240 and honestly completey lost interest in the GTO.

Don't get me wrong, its a fantastic car, but I never got all that excited about modifying it. Selling it got rid of the last bit of my debt, so I guess in the end it will help me have more free cash to spend in the 240.

IT was a tough call, but I still don't feel like I made a mistake. Besides if I ever start to miss it....an LS1 fits pretty snuggly inside an s14.

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Post by Jus14 » Sun May 01, 2011 8:46 pm

^^^ LS1 power hehehe they are fun but traction limited i found that out on an old s13 yeah GTO is nice but i think 240 will be more fun to tinker with as well
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Post by superDorifto » Wed May 04, 2011 4:05 pm

Jus14 wrote:^^^ LS1 power hehehe they are fun but traction limited i found that out on an old s13 yeah GTO is nice but i think 240 will be more fun to tinker with as well
Thats what it really comes down to...There was no real DIY mentality with the GTO community. There were fast cars, and expensive cars, and fast expensive cars, but not a whole lotta innovation.

I have always felt that the 240 community is willing to try just about anything because of they 2 things that they had in common....

Passion for modification...

and a general lack of funds to just outright buy the parts to do the job...

With the GTO guys you either had ones that were stock, like mine which were pretty awesome, or you had guys with 600hp and $20000 less in the bank.

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Post by superDorifto » Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:17 pm

The plan is the plan until the plan changes....that is one of my favorite lines to use at work, and my plans have most def changed.

I'll update the title in a little bit, but I have ditched the KA-T project in favor of something a little different.

These should explain exactly where I am going with this...I have a bunch more custom parts in the works as well...

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along with the embossed emblem, I had an engraved one made too.

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I'll be starting a proper build thread in the KA24DER section as soon as I tie up some loose ends fabrication wise, but the pile of parts in my living room is going in shortly.

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Post by superDorifto » Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:12 pm

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GOOD NEWS EVERYONE!!!

Time for an Update. Summer has come and just about gone, and my project keeps trucking along, I've accumulated a ton of sweet parts that is going to make this car shine when its done, but the SC is most likely not going in until the Winter.

Anywho....

AEM EMS V1 OBDII

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AEM Stand Alone Wideband w/Gauge - planning to run the AEM universal gauge as my second/only other gauge - lets you monitor anything that the system is currently datalogging - should be a pretty clean set-up. Will normally show boost, but can be switched on the fly, or whenever the user progammable max/min warning values are hit. Going to use it for coolant temp, oil pressure, voltage, Charge cooler coolant temp, and IAT before and after the charge cooler.

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Modified s14 dizzy with the AEM trigger disc already installed and CRB coils/pigtails

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Baller ass COP Distributor Delete Cover - my favorite part by a wide margin

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Set of (6) 550cc sidefeeds - came from a 300zx build, couldn't turndown having extra injectors

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Trans star KA/SR Tranny rebuild kit - need to throw this in my extra tranny stat, no syncros in 2-3 or 4-5

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White Bunny 1.0 set up - Stock D21 Flywheel/Excedy NA Z32 Clutch + New OEM Nissan Flywheel/Pressure Plate Bolts (contemplating upgrading to 2.0 over the winter RB20 Fly/350z Clutch)

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Rear z32 backing plates/e brake set up for my brake swap - sending the calipers and most of my KA out for powdercoating this week. Still need conversion lines, R33 cables, pads/rotors/MC

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I also bit the bullet and went full forged for the motor - overkill for the SC, but down the line I want to be able to throw down some numbers with pump gas.

OG Crower KA Rods - my latest acquisition, brand new for half price, going to mate them with my lightly used Wiseco's that for some reason would not sell on any of the forums or Ebay (may still buy new pistons just because)- also picked up an 11mm head stud kit from AMS's dwindling KA parts, already had Clevite main/rod bearings and ARP main studs.

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Work is kicking my ass, but hopefully I'll be able to get my charge cooler over to MajikDragon so he can TIG the **** outta it...then I can mock everything up for the engine while the built motor goes off to the shop to have all of the block work done.

Timeserts for the 11mm studs, and helicoils for the head so I can stop worrying about stripping the VC bolts


Planning/Parts left to buy:
Need to work out my oil filter relocation/cooler, the rest of my AN lines(all coolant), and how I want to run my harness - def moderatley tucked, potentially mil-spec to go along with the theme of the build. I'm also replacing all of the engine bolts with metric 12 pts...which are a bi*ch to find if you dont want ARP HW.

Updates once stuff gets back from Powdercoat... :biggrin:

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Post by TryingToTurbo » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:30 pm

What are your plans for the charge cooler? How are you running the M62?

You say forged is overkill for the supercharger, but I can promise you it's not. After blowing my ringlands, and I know I'm not the only SC guy to do it, its a smart move.

If you have any questions with the SC setup, feel free to PM me if I can help.
Built KA24DE: Wiseco 9.0:1 | Eagle H Beams | ARP Head & Main Studs | BC 272s & Springs | Supertech Valves
Boost Source: Under Construction

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Post by blacks13coupe » Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:56 pm

+1 blew my ring lands after 1 year of supercharging.
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Post by superDorifto » Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:32 pm

TryingToTurbo wrote:What are your plans for the charge cooler? How are you running the M62?

You say forged is overkill for the supercharger, but I can promise you it's not. After blowing my ringlands, and I know I'm not the only SC guy to do it, its a smart move.

If you have any questions with the SC setup, feel free to PM me if I can help.
I've got a thread in the fab forum for the charge cooler I'm building. sandwiching a 450cfm water to air intercooler in the upper intake runners. I have all the pieces cut, I just need to get my TIG guy to weld the bisch up.

I will most def be contacting you as I get closer to installing the charger. I have a general idea/understanding of how to route/mount the AIV(I think thats the correct acronym, every other company calls it an IACV) and FICV, but I would obv defer to people that have running set ups.

Its a knight kit so it supposed to be a remote mounted AIV, and the FICV is mounted of of that to a vacuum source before the throttle plate. I might have new adaptor plate made to try and copy the placement thats in the KA24DER kit...but I'll cross that bridge eventually.

Gonna need to start my build thread in the SC forum soon too I guess.

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Post by smbonn2005 » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:17 pm

Can I get any info on that distributor cover? PM me if you want, thanks =)

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Post by superDorifto » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:49 pm

PM sent

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Post by smbonn2005 » Wed Aug 10, 2011 12:49 pm

No PM received??

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Post by adamky » Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:29 am

blacks13coupe wrote:+1 blew my ring lands after 1 year of supercharging.
Me too, so that makes 3 of us. :(



Looking forward to seeing how the charge cooler works. Sorry if I overlooked it, but do you plan to monitor intake temps to see how much of a difference the cooler makes?
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Post by superDorifto » Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:16 am

yeah,

I'm mounting an extra set of IATs befor and after the cooler and monitoring the coolant in the exchanger as well.

Man...busted Ringlands....makes me nervous, the used wisecos I have look fine to me as theres only a few nicks on two of the crowns that can be buffed out - but if that is the weak link in the set up I will be royally pissed at myself. :cry:

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Post by adamky » Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:30 pm

The reason I ask about the intake temp sensor is because I installed one with my new setup. It's mounted in the supercharger plate. I was hoping it would give me a good idea of my intake temps. Unfortunately, it just seems to be reading the temp of the supercharger plate, and not the air entering the engine. I see intake temps of 200+ degrees in low boost, and I know that's not right. So, it's basically useless in my case.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Post by superDorifto » Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:56 pm

adamky wrote:The reason I ask about the intake temp sensor is because I installed one with my new setup. It's mounted in the supercharger plate. I was hoping it would give me a good idea of my intake temps. Unfortunately, it just seems to be reading the temp of the supercharger plate, and not the air entering the engine. I see intake temps of 200+ degrees in low boost, and I know that's not right. So, it's basically useless in my case.
it could be reading very correct.

the M62 at 14 psi can bump up the charge temp by 200deg F....over ambient with no cooling via meth or an intercooler.

at 10, or stock boost you could be seeing that temp easily. With mine, I should be able to see a correlation between the before sensor, the after, and the coolant temp.

Going to try and datalog with speed and the reading from the actual ait to work out the cooler efficiency. Should be able ot tell if anyone in the future needs a different design from mine, or just a bigger cooler.

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Post by adamky » Wed Aug 24, 2011 7:35 am

Yeah, it's hard to tell if it's working correctly. I haven't had the car running very long with the new motor. On low boost, which is 2 psi, my intake temps shouldn't be that hot. I can understand seeing 200+ with high boost (~12psi), but not low boost.

Any updates?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Post by schmauster920 » Wed Aug 24, 2011 9:55 am

If you can insulate the IAT sensor in plastic or silicone it would probably help.. maybe even using silicone on the threads.. Just a thought
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Post by sdaigle240 » Wed Aug 24, 2011 10:05 am

airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
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hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s

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Playing with Dangerous Chemicals

Post by superDorifto » Sun Nov 06, 2011 7:51 pm

The Build is chugging along, gonna be posting motor build picks soon, but first we gotta talk about bolts.... 8)

I'm swapping nearly all of the bolts under the hood for 12 fasteners...and they are not necessarily cheap. In metric sizes places like Ballerbolts.com and Dressupbolts.com charge ridiculous amounts of money.

I found class 12.9 steel (stronger than grade 8 ) uncoated bolts...plenty strong for nearly every fastener, but they would rust instantly if not coated in something. I went for nickel phosphorus per AMS2404.

Heres some pics, Turned out pretty well for my first time dealing with the process. Before I attempted this I quoted a few local shops for the same process, for 300-400 bolts, they wanted $400 bucks. The plating kit was less than half of that, and will let me coat a bunch of little details as well. Sorry for the blurriness.

Don't breathe the fumes.... :shock:

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Post by adamky » Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:07 am

That looks cool. They turned out very nice. I could have used something like this when putting my motor together.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Post by superDorifto » Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:18 pm

I really like your project. I'm hoping my build is as clean.

Still gotta finish building that charge cooler / intake.

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Post by schmauster920 » Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:43 am

Turbine housing is next in the nickel soup? haha You got me thinking about this

You could also cut a hole\recess in the valve cover and TIG the KA24DER plate in and make it look stock.

Love the build!!!
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress

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