SuperDorifto's Overbuilt KA24DE - T Project

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shift_down
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Post by shift_down » Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:09 pm

I love the way the black and orange get split between intake and exhaust. Keep it up!
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My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539

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Post by schmauster920 » Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:52 pm

Looks great, it has made me rethink my motors paint job next time its out.
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress

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Post by supakat » Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:22 am

Different. I like it.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
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superDorifto
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Post by superDorifto » Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:03 pm

super-excited...my machinist took a whack at some custom fittings for my motor.

Thermostat return from heater core - modified to accept the -06 return from the turbo as well. He just loaded this on facebook, but I cannot wait to see it in person.

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Post by 500hpKA240sx » Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:44 pm

lookin good
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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Post by niceguy » Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:21 pm

Awesome job so far and a very realistic guide to all the little crap that happens with builds, unlike the glossy edited magazine stories lol...

I've only had a FSTB and my KA VC powdercoated here in memphis (candy apple red metallic) and was not happy when I found that they didn't protect the plug wire bracket and oil cap threads.
Broke the bolt off in the VC trying to cut the powdercoat w/the bracket bolt and then had to use brake cleaner to melt the powdercoat finish inside the oil cap threads, messing up some of the finish on top. Little things...

Keep it up and beautiful choice of engine colors! Reminds me of Ferrari....

Jeremy

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Post by klh6686 » Tue Oct 02, 2012 6:35 am

nice build, the colors are loud but the work is quality!

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Injector o-ring seat

Post by pimpin ken » Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:43 am

Even after ovalizing the mounting hole on the fuel rail, I am having a hard time getting the injectors to seat. Is there something more that has been done to make it happen. It seems when I bolt the rail down even just to a point where it seems to be angled right, I can see gaps in between the o-ring and manifold. Please elaborate if possible on this subject sir. 8)
Boost to move, meth to cool, juice to spool.

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Re: Injector o-ring seat

Post by superDorifto » Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:41 am

pimpin ken wrote:Even after ovalizing the mounting hole on the fuel rail, I am having a hard time getting the injectors to seat. Is there something more that has been done to make it happen. It seems when I bolt the rail down even just to a point where it seems to be angled right, I can see gaps in between the o-ring and manifold. Please elaborate if possible on this subject sir. 8)
It was a bi*ch.

The ports milled into the manifold did not have enough clearance for the tips of the injectors. I had to use a carbide end mill on my dremel to hog out each of the injector bosses. There is an angled seal land, then an inner bore where the tip of the the injector is supposed to sit. Those bosses were too small of a diameter, and needed to be cut back.

This was a trial and error process that took the better part of 4 hours.

BE VERY CAREFUL that you don't mar up the seal land for the o-rings.

Once the rail could seatd deep enough so tha tthe o-rings sealed, I started adjusting the spacers/rail. The 2 tang mounts on the factory rail may look straight, but there can be a bit of a twist, making adjustment of the spacer heights neccessary.

I ended up neededing to take about .100" off the height of the spacer closer to the firewall. Even then there was still about a degree of twist. I made sure to install the orings with a bit of rtv to ensure a leak free seal.

There is no easy answer, you have to fiddle with it.

I'll post some pics of the cuts once I get home.

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Post by pimpin ken » Thu Oct 11, 2012 8:11 am

Thank you sir. I will attempt again with the new knowledge to see if i can get it to work. I considered going back to the stock manifold but I really dont want to because of the time I have spent getting this thing where it needs to be. The rail is the last issue I have, but again thanks. 8)
Boost to move, meth to cool, juice to spool.

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Post by superDorifto » Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:21 pm

Image

I hope this helps.

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Post by superDorifto » Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:52 pm

getting close to installing this beast.

last pieces that needed the wrinkle...
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decided against the gray valve cover....MOAR WRINKLE RED!!!!!!!
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After painting the damn thing I realized that it still needed some light machine work. I dropped it off to get the breather tube drilled and tapped for its AN fitting, and had the baffle vacuum hole relocated to keep the s13 cams from squirting oil directly into the baffle. I also had my machinist mill the top .100" off the spark plug covers so that these will fit....

Audi Coils to go with the AEM, Red of course...
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Post by supakat » Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:56 pm

Sweet.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
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Post by niceguy » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:04 pm

Looks really good, is that VHT pretty resistant against chemicals like oil, gasoline or engine cleaners??

Something you may want to play with down the road (I'm about to start myself) is DIY powdercoating. You can get a cheap Craftsman p'coating gun for like $40 and after spraying them, you can bake small parts in a cheap little toaster oven or larger parts in a regular oven. A member at maxima.org did a bunch of small parts in candy metallic blue and they turned out awesome!

That wrinkle red looks really cool, ferrari like...

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Post by superDorifto » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:42 pm

The funny thing its that 95 percent of the motor bits were powder coated flat wrinkle red. I got a good price from a NICO member, but the vht paint just pops. It is so over the top, "red," that I ended up painting over the powder coat. On the up side I can just repaint to touch up in the future.
Last edited by superDorifto on Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by niceguy » Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:50 pm

Cool, it does pop! My VC and FSTB are p'coated candy apple red but the idiot Memphis coater didn't tape the VC threads and I had to use brake cleaner spray to remove the coating for my plastic OEM oil cap to screw in. Ended up streaking and screwing up the finish too....

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superDorifto
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Post by superDorifto » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:14 pm

superDorifto wrote:The funny thing its that 95 percent of the motor bits were powder coated flat wrinkle red. I got a good price from a NICO member, but the vht paint just pops. It is so over the top, "red," that I ended up painting over the powder coat. On the up side I can just repaint to touch up in the future.
Its supposed to be resistant to most automotive fluids (Oil, Brake fluid, gas), and good to 450F...we'll see how well it holds up.

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Post by sdaigle240 » Fri Nov 09, 2012 8:05 am

im gonna need some alone time with this thing when its done.... hahah
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
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hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s

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Post by superDorifto » Fri Nov 09, 2012 11:37 am

Dammit Daigle....come get your catch can, I have it rattling around the floorboards of my car.

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Post by x10secondzx2 » Fri Nov 09, 2012 12:25 pm

Looks pretty sweet!

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Post by superDorifto » Mon Nov 12, 2012 9:44 pm

Got the valve cover back today. Looks pretty and red, but made some real functional changes based on the set up I'm running.

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The VW coils I'm planning to run are a bit to long, and a bit too wide for the stock spark plug holes. My machinist hit each bore with a 1-1/16th end mill for about 1/4 inch.
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He stopped because he started to see some porosity in the casting - this may just be my valve cover, but in any event, I plan on sealing the bore with a small smear of silicone. The small dot in the radius of the new cut is the pore that was exposed by the end mill.
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FYI, anyone else wanting to run these coils, you need to cut the rubber boot off completely, and turn/grind down the coils as shown.
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A secondary consideration, because I am running s13 cams in my s14 motor, there is a final journal on the cam at the back of the motor that spins free. s14 heads lack this extra journal/cap. It would not be such a huge problem, except it is right bellow the valve cover oil baffle vacuum intake. Luckily you can keep the breather from filling up with oil with a few well placed spot welds and a few new holes to relocate the baffle.
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Up next, final motor assembly, installation, and tuning.

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Post by imarkspeed » Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:03 pm

this thing is twight!!!!! looking awesome. good info on that mani btw thanks
ka-t calum ecu, 860cc injectors, lighting maf, pressi 60-1 turbo

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Post by superDorifto » Sat Dec 01, 2012 12:28 pm

11th hour - bought what I think are the last of the fittings/hoses. gotta get the current motor through emissions so I can have 2 years of fun. My new DD is going to be a 98 4 Runner I picked up from my dad, currently at my machinist's house getting a new HG.

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I might end up keeping the EMS too...no takers on it so far, if it doesn't sell by the 15th or so, its going in

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Post by 500hpKA240sx » Sun Dec 02, 2012 12:29 am

that is so FCUKING SEXY UGH!!! I WANT IT!
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Post by Charlie240sxt » Sun Dec 02, 2012 12:25 pm

Cool car man cant wait to see it done.
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Post by superDorifto » Sun Dec 02, 2012 7:57 pm

Spent the day trying to whip the winter beater into shape.

98 4Runner - had an overheating/disappearing coolant problem...looks like the leak was draining water/coolant into the valley between the heads, and the lack of coolant caused the overheat.

I've never seen a set of heads/intake with so much corrosion, you can kinda see how much surface corrosion was in the valley.

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There is so much chit in the way of removing these heads, its kinda rediculous
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The heads warped due to the overheat, but they were below the limit, gonna through it back together with a new gasket and take my chances.

Also hitting the classics
Timing belt
Water pump
and every gasket that I have access to with all this extra room in the engine bay.

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Post by superDorifto » Tue Dec 04, 2012 5:40 pm

More teaser shots...Ignore the marks on the hose, I was playing around with the cutter.

With the exception of the PS lines, I'm replacing every hose/line on the motor. For the vacuum, I am trying something a bit different.
I'm trying this out on the PCV system first, depending on how it works, I may try it on the rest of the vacuum lines. These are, "push to connect," fittings, used in automation, and pneumatic systems.

They are available in lots of different configurations. These are 3/8 OD, nickle plated, with a viton internal o-ring.

Pressure Range
28in Hg - 150+psi ( honestly don't remember the high number, but it was WAY above what an automotive system will ever see)
Temp Range
-30F - 200F (might be a bit tricky for waste gate actuation)

The hose is a high density nylon, its rated from the same vacuum, but has a higher max pressure. Similar temp capability.

They are identical to the push to lock fittings on a paintball gun, only much bigger. They also have available in line check valves and other special fittings to keep routings neat and tidy.

I'm planning to run these from the VC to the intake (pre turbo), and from the de-oiler, through a functional catch can and a one-way check valve to the intake just after the TB. it should mimic the functionality of the stock system, keep the blow-by for the most part in the catch can, and still work under boost. Thoughts?

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Post by Silviadream87 » Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:39 am

I brought this up awhile back, can't remember the section. But awesome, i will be watching this for sure to see how it works out. I was going to do it on my build next tax season but so glad you are trying it before me lol not in a bad way. Just you knew where to find the right type of hose and beefer fittings.
Always make sure the juice is worth the squeeze!!

91 240sx turbo-first rwd and loving it

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superDorifto
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Post by superDorifto » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:40 am

THere are a ton of manufacturers for these fittings, but these were the ones I ended up ordering.

I picked up a set of (5) of the 3/8 OD - 3/8 NPT FIttins, and some of the straight adapters, along with 100ft of the nylon 3/8 OD hose.

I still need ot get the one way valve, but its not like theya re super expsenive.

spent ~$50 total with shipping, parts showed up in 2 Business days.

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Sho ... moplastic)

All of the material specs are there as well.

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Post by NRubinoS14 » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:47 am

superDorifto wrote:11th hour - bought what I think are the last of the fittings/hoses. gotta get the current motor through emissions so I can have 2 years of fun. My new DD is going to be a 98 4 Runner I picked up from my dad, currently at my machinist's house getting a new HG.

Image
Image

I might end up keeping the EMS too...no takers on it so far, if it doesn't sell by the 15th or so, its going in
Gorgeous!!!

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