Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd, S14

This is for all those PICTURE THREADS ONLY. Motor installs, product writeups, showing off your car, put the thread in here.
240Life
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by 240Life » Tue Jan 26, 2016 10:35 am

Hardcore DIYer is definitely the term for you Adam, you make me look like a lazy person =P. I might have to trailer my build up to KY so you can impart some knowledge on me.

Josh

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superDorifto
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by superDorifto » Tue Jan 26, 2016 3:58 pm

I'm 99 percent sure I ended up buying the same Kobalt Socket for my 11mm studs. Its coming together.

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Tue Jan 26, 2016 10:53 pm

240Life wrote:Hardcore DIYer is definitely the term for you Adam, you make me look like a lazy person =P. I might have to trailer my build up to KY so you can impart some knowledge on me.

Josh
Yeah, hardcore!! :music-deathmetal:
You can bring your car to me, but the catch is that you won't get your car back for a long time. Once I start on something it always snowballs out of control and takes way longer than expected. Whether it's cars, or 3D printing, or flying RC/FPV drones, I'm either all in or all out. There is no middle ground. Mental health experts would probably say that I have a tiny bit of OCD, but I'm way too busy turning light switches on and off repeatedly to pay any attention to the so-called "experts".



Back to the build, I'm using these exhaust manifold studs: http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/er ... a24de.html. They already come zinc plated and blue chromated. So, continuing with my gold on silver theme, I decided to leave the studs themselves silver but strip and re-chromate the nuts in yellow/gold. Very simple and quick job. A couple of minutes in the acid tank followed by 50 seconds in the chromate tank.
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Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Jan 28, 2016 10:08 pm

Checking cam timing on my JWT S1 cams:
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This was a bit more of a chore than it's been in the past, but I'm sure some of that has to do with only getting 4 hours of sleep for the past few nights. The results were a little surprising.

Also, a little warning before you start reading: this is going to be a bit long, and possibly a bit pointless since I think I know what I am going to do (although I am still open to any and all advice). But, here's a peak into what has been going on in my head all day while checking cam timing and trying to decide what to change.

So, for starters, in case you haven't seen it yet, one of our members, Dustin, made a great thread on setting valve lash and cam timing: viewtopic.php?p=337400
If you read through that whole thread, you'll see that at one point there was some confusion over the JWT cam card. The reason for that is the way that JWT had their cam card set compared to Brian Crower, Kelford, and really... most other companies that make aftermarket cams. BC cam cards have timing events (intake open, intake close, etc) specified at .050" of lift. Setting cam timing at .050" of lift is pretty standard in the industry. Kelford's cam card specifies the timing events @ 1.0mm or 1.27 mm of lift. 1.27 mm of lift is .050". But for some reason, the JWT cam card specifies events at only .001" of lift. If you take the numbers on the cam card and put them into a cam timing calculator, the duration comes out to 272 for both intake and exhaust, which is their advertised duration.

Here's the JWT cam card:
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Kfred was the first one to notice this and thankfully he made a thread about it, which helped to clear up some of the confusion I was having with setting my cams up: viewtopic.php?t=48513


So, when I went to set timing today, I decided too measure @ BOTH .001" and .050". I took my time doing this and I was really careful to get my dial gauge in line with valve travel. I was really slow and careful about spinning the crank and measuring and checking everything 3 or 4 times. In other words, this was the most careful and precise I have ever been when checking cam timing.

Important information:
-Valve lash is @ .010" for both intake and exhaust
-I'm using a set of Greaser's awesome mechanically-locked timing chain tensioners. I set them as tight as I thought was necessary while trying not to overdo it. Bottom chain was easy. For the top chain, I rotated the crank until I had valve spring tension keeping the chain tight between the 2 cams and also keeping the right side of the chain tight to the idler gear. In other words, all of the slack was located at the tensioner. Then I simply tightened it up to get rid of the extra slack. BTW, I'm only mentioning this to say that while I'm not an experienced engine builder and have never set timing chain slack before, I got it pretty snug but I tried to let the valve spring tension do the majority of the work. And the only reason that I mention all of this is because I actually got MORE duration than advertised @ .001" of lift. Yeah, I know... WTF?

Anyways, here are my results:

@ .001" of lift
Intake Opens BTDC (ATDC is -) : 20
Intake Closes ABDC : 87
Exhaust Opens BBDC : 79
Exhaust Closes ATDC (BTDC is -) : 29


When I plug those numbers into http://www.wallaceracing.com/camcalc.php, this is what it spits out:
Intake Duration is 287.00 degrees.
Exhaust Duration is 288.00 degrees.
Installed Intake Centerline is 123.50 degrees ATDC.
Installed Exhaust Centerline is 115.00 degrees BTDC.
LSA is 119.3 degrees
Overlap is 49.00 degrees.


Comparing these to the cam card, my opening and closing events are 5-10 degrees off, but my centerline for the intake is only 2.5 degrees off, and the centerline for the exhaust is only 1 degree off.

What I don't understand is how I got more duration that what is advertised, but like I said, I was very meticulous and careful, checking everything over and over again. Also, the duration for both the intake and exhaust ended up within 1 degree of each other, so... :dunno: If only one of them was 287 and the other was 272, I'd be more likely to attribute it to me screwing something up.


As I mentioned, I also checked events @ .050" of lift. Here are the numbers:
Intake Opens BTDC (ATDC is -) : -17
Intake Closes ABDC : 51
Exhaust Opens BBDC : 45
Exhaust Closes ATDC (BTDC is -) : -9


Results from plugging them into the calculator:
Intake Duration is 214.00 degrees.
Exhaust Duration is 216.00 degrees.
Installed Intake Centerline is 124.00 degrees ATDC.
Installed Exhaust Centerline is 117.00 degrees BTDC.
LSA is 120.5 degrees
Overlap is -26.00 degrees.


Obviously, the opening and closing events are waaaay off, but the centerlines are only 3 degrees off for the intake and 1 degree off for the exhaust.


So, that's where I stopped and I'm not sure if I'm going to adjust either of them. I've seen various opinions on setting cam timing. The ones that come to memory were from Derek (Greaser) and Duron (duncan351)
BTW, PLEASE don't think that I am calling either of you guys out by posting your replies here. I'm just trying to show some of the information that I have gathered and share how I am applying this info to my motor and my needs/goals.

Derek says that maxing out your advance on intake and maxing out your retard on exhaust is the best because you end up with really good hp gains from 2K-6K. That makes sense and he's got dyno proof and many years of experience to back this up. The trade off is a rougher idle and you will lose power above 6K. Here are the two threads where he discussed that:
viewtopic.php?p=529536#p529536
viewtopic.php?p=529158#p529158

Long time and respected member Duron has dyno'd his car with various cam timing settings and I have seen him recommend retarding the intake 2.5 degrees and advancing the exhaust 2.5-7.5 degrees. He wrote:
duncan351 wrote:Turbo size doesn't even matter. This was the best happy medium for low end and top end power along with very good drive ability.

viewtopic.php?p=525015#p525015
viewtopic.php?p=529662#p529662

So, given this info, how should I set my cams up?
To recap my setup, my motor has:
-JWT S1 cams
-JWT cam gears
-BC valves (stock size)
-BC springs and titanium retainers
-Head has a 3 angle valve job, but the ports are untouched/stock
-ATI Super Damper
-Eagle rods, Wiseco 9:1 pistons
-Equal length exhaust manifold with a PT5857DBB (4" ported inlet and .64 A/R hotside)
-Xcessive Intake manifold with Q45 throttle body

While my initial goals are going to be mild due to running 93oct pump, I will eventually be installing my new fuel setup for E85 and cranking up the boost to 30+ psi. While I like the idea of gaining lots of power from 2K-6K rpm, I would prefer to have a decent idle. Also, with the built head and ATI Super Damper, I have plans to spin the motor to close to 8K rpm. So, I don't want to choke it off on the top end too much.


Applying this all to my car
The car may have to be my DD for a while, but hopefully I'll be able to get another DD and the 240 will become my weekend fun car with occasional trips to the local 1/8 mile strip and probably a lot of roll races (in Mexico). So, I'm looking for a good middle ground for the cam settings. This leads me to believe that I should just leave them where they are at right now since they are about as close to the cam card as I can get them.

I appreciate and welcome any opinions for or against my thinking here.

I'm beat and off to bed. I'll be back tomorrow to re-read this and edit out some of the crazy rambling.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Greaser
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by Greaser » Fri Jan 29, 2016 11:48 am

proud of you trying to understand valvetrain events. Now go look up some honda b series /k series camshafts and look at intake valve opening events. Eye opening. And when i said rough idle, its the type of idle i think everyone would like. You'll just have to experience for yourself. You also have to understand the amount of time you're above 6,000rpm vs 2,000-6000rpm. Then go drive each setup and make a choice. Another problem is all of my extreme cam timing customers have full standalone ecu's. And its a bad idea to play with cam timing without the ability to adjust fuel flow.

Its my opinion anyone bolting in a camshaft should be going through these learning/understanding steps and then testing on a dyno cam timing to effectively make an educated decision.

its also my opinion that if you do not want to have to pull that engine back out and put a crankshaft and new rod bearings in it, to not spin it past 7500rpm. Until i have a spintron and a dry sump to test and find why you shouldnt, im not even going to spin one up that high.


Youre starting to inspire me to spend the hours its going to take to find those dyno charts i talk about. Maybe tonight i'll start.

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Sat Jan 30, 2016 8:28 am

Greaser wrote:proud of you trying to understand valvetrain events. Now go look up some honda b series /k series camshafts and look at intake valve opening events. Eye opening. And when i said rough idle, its the type of idle i think everyone would like. You'll just have to experience for yourself. You also have to understand the amount of time you're above 6,000rpm vs 2,000-6000rpm. Then go drive each setup and make a choice.
Thanks man, I'm certainly trying. After discussing this with my friend and co-mechanic, I've decided to leave them where they are at for now. I've made a whole lot of changes to this car, including stiffer motor mounts, so I want to get all the bugs worked out before I start dealing with a lopey idle. There's also a good chance that this will be my daily driver for about a year. Once I get a second vehicle, I'll go back and play with cam timing. I also want to be able to dyno tune the car and I'm broke and in debt right now, so that's not feasible just yet.
Greaser wrote:Another problem is all of my extreme cam timing customers have full standalone ecu's. And its a bad idea to play with cam timing without the ability to adjust fuel flow.
Im not sure what you mean by that. I have Nistune, which is a fully tunable ECU. I've been tuning the car myself for over 8 years. I'm still a novice at best, but I know how to get it running and driving with good AFRs and conservative timing.
Greaser wrote:Its my opinion anyone bolting in a camshaft should be going through these learning/understanding steps and then testing on a dyno cam timing to effectively make an educated decision.
I agree. Once I get a second vehicle and some extra cash flow, I plan to max out advance on intake and retard on exhaust and do some before/after dyno runs and tuning. I'm 100% determined to squeeze every bit of "safe" power that I can get out of this setup.
Greaser wrote:its also my opinion that if you do not want to have to pull that engine back out and put a crankshaft and new rod bearings in it, to not spin it past 7500rpm. Until i have a spintron and a dry sump to test and find why you shouldnt, im not even going to spin one up that high.
Roger that. I wasnt planning to take it that high on a daily basis. It would be more of a track day thing if anything. There are a few folks who have taken them to ~8K with built heads and ATI dampers, but you're right that I don't know how those motors are doing now. They may have already had to rebuild.
Greaser wrote:Youre starting to inspire me to spend the hours its going to take to find those dyno charts i talk about. Maybe tonight i'll start.
Please do. The more hard evidence I see showing what kind of amazing gains that I can get with cam timing, the easier it is going to be to convince myself that it's worth it to deal with a lopey idle on a daily basis.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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cleantune
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:53 pm

.
Your build just continues to amaze, excellent work man. I'm learning a lot from your progress on this build. Thanks for posting those links too. Now I think with engine stuff like this no one will question the level of attention to detail this stuff deserves and that you're giving it ; especially when tuning for reliability.

For what its worth: as long as these cams are as close as possible to where the manufacturer said they are supposed to be, which it sounds like they are, I think you made the right decision; although, I know how tempting it probably is to change them. Have you talked to JWT about this by any chance?

PS: that earlier post about OCD made me laugh :mrgreen:

.
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For SALE !!! >>viewtopic.php?f=19&t=64301&p=537044#p537044 <<

Buildthread: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=34236&p=537046#p537046
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Mon Feb 01, 2016 1:48 am

Thanks man. I love doing this stuff and geeking out about all of the little details that often get overlooked. I actually did talk directly to Jim Wolfe several years ago (via email) when I was degreeing my cams. I thought that I had posted the replies here but cannot find them anywhere now. I was very pleased that Jim himself had replied to me, but his email wasn't all that helpful. It was mostly about cam design and theory and he never directly replied to my question. I'll search again tomorrow and see if i can find the emails.

In other news, more progress. Installed the front covers, oil pan, and flywheel/clutch. The motor is now in the car... Woo hoo! ImageGoing to be kicking a55 this week to try and get it all together
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Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:06 pm

Test fitted the manifold, downpipe, wastegate, and turbine housing. The good news is that everything fits relatively well. I have plenty of room room for heat shielding between the downpipe and brake lines/BMC. I'm going to have to make some slight modifications to the downpipe and recirculate the WG, but overall I am quite happy with how everything fits.
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ATI Super Damper
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Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by superDorifto » Tue Feb 02, 2016 3:47 pm

Man your engine is looking good...

Makes me wish I was doing more with my own build this winter. keep it coming.

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Tue Feb 02, 2016 8:56 pm

Thanks. It's really easy to get carried away with the plating, painting, and media blasting once you start. I am running out of time and I'm being forced to put parts back on that haven't been restored to like new condition and it is frigging killing me. I had to install the distributor tonight and even after I cleaned it, the aluminum part at the base looks like crap next to the bead blasted front covers. I so wanted to disassemble it completely and bead blast the base. Must... resist...

Things are happening fast now that the motor is back in the car. I put the turbo and intake manifold on tonight so we can start mocking up the intercooler piping.

Also, it feels soooo weird having all of that empty space underneath the intake manifold after having that spot filled up with the supercharger setup for over 5 years. I keep looking at it and feeling like I'm forgetting to put something there. There's so much space that I bet I could almost fit the 5 gallon air tank that I'm using for my PCV setup in there.

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Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by Farmer620 » Tue Feb 02, 2016 10:31 pm

Not sure if you mention this but what crank pulley is that off of?
Thanks

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Tue Feb 02, 2016 11:31 pm

It's the ATI Super Damper for the KA24DE
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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240Life
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by 240Life » Wed Feb 03, 2016 10:35 am

How are you guys going about tightening the crank pulley? Isn't the torque requirement around 150 ft-lb, I will have to look at the FSM when I get home. I still have my engine on the stand, I was thinking of fabricating some sort of holding wrench to bolt to bushing on the other end of the crank or do they have something off the shelf for it?

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Wed Feb 03, 2016 11:20 am

Honestly, I used an impact wrench. The ATI damper is a VERY tight fit. I saw a video by Real Street Performance where they recommended heating it up so it would expand and slide over the end of the crank easier. Even after putting it in a crock pot for almost 2 hours and getting up to almost 200*, it still wouldn't go on more than about 1/4". So, I stuck the bolt on and hit it with the air impact wrench. I just kept going until it was seated all the way back, and then I stopped.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by 240Life » Wed Feb 03, 2016 12:26 pm

Did you impact the stock damper in the past?

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by Farmer620 » Wed Feb 03, 2016 3:52 pm

adamky wrote:It's the ATI Super Damper for the KA24DE
Thanks for the info.
However Im a retard. I meant the water pump pulley. Doesnt look stock

Thanks again

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Wed Feb 03, 2016 4:10 pm

240Life wrote:Did you impact the stock damper in the past?
Yes. I know you're not supposed to, but I have always done it. I just try not to overdo it. I have a battery powered Ryobi and an air impact. The battery powered one is pretty tame and I try and use it whenever possible. I had to use the air impact on the ATI. I just watched it and as soon as it stopped moving back toward the motor, I released the trigger.
Farmer620 wrote:
adamky wrote:It's the ATI Super Damper for the KA24DE
Thanks for the info.
However Im a retard. I meant the water pump pulley. Doesnt look stock

Thanks again
It's a stock water pump and pulley. The pump itself was zinc plated. The pulley was polished and zinc plated and then polished again. The previous page has more info on my plating setup.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by 240Life » Thu Feb 04, 2016 9:54 am

Ok, my friend has a torque wrench that goes to 175 ft-lb, mine only hits 75. I looked in the FSM last night and it's actually between 105 - 112 ft-lb. I will just fab a quick and dirty holder that bolts onto the pilot bushing.

Your build is great.

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by BigLoukaT » Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:28 pm

If you had the flywheel bolted on and accessible, you can chain the flywheel (using a pressure plate bolt) to the block. That's how I've always attached the flywheel bolts anyways, and they are bolted with similar torque
1990 S13
Boosted single slammer
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npx from 240sxforums wrote:i figure from my very limited knowledge about the 240 and under the hood about cars in general i would follow the sr20det trend.

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Fri Feb 05, 2016 5:30 pm

Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the ISIS logo so I don't look like I'm sponsored by a terrorist group? It's not like a sticker or tape. I tried soaking it in lacquer thinner and then tried acetone and neither did anything. It's like it is embedded in the silicone...

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Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by niceguy » Fri Feb 05, 2016 8:13 pm

Depending on what was used for the graphics, sometimes mineral spirits will work or a gum eraser wheel...I'm surprised the acetone didn't do anything. Worst case, you could always get a semi/gloss sheen aerosol paint to hide it.

Beautiful job overall and love the plating work!

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Sat Feb 06, 2016 11:55 pm

Thank you. I may try mineral spirits, but I think my only option is going to be to just deal with it or cover it with paint.

I've had a few fitment issues but they've all been pretty easily remedied. Like this power steering line. And the dipstick tube. These are the "before" pics.
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Baby steps... intercooler mounted...
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I'm starting to think again about using the Eastwood black radiator paint to make the intercooler and charge piping a little more stealthy. I've been going back and forth on this during the build, but seeing it mounted with the bumper and bumper cover on made me want to make it black. I like to fly under the radar and the intercooler just screams "look at me, I'm boosted!!". That's one thing I really liked about the supercharger setup. People always assumed it was a stock KA.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by 240Life » Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:28 am

I feel you on the isis thing, I have a lot of isis to cover up. Got so bad they had to change to ISR smh, thanks terrorists.

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by wesamiss » Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:45 pm

Black shrink wrap could be used to cover up the isis logo?
WES

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by superDorifto » Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:59 pm

not sure how it would turn out, but they make a silicone repair tape. Its available under a couple different brand names and comes in different colors.

Its basically cured silicone RTV in strip form, it sticks to itself permanently and might be close enough to the existing silicone for nobody to notice. might even look better with a sort of Matte look.

Its at most automotive stores and in the plumbing section at Home Depot/Lowes. Hell, I used it to make up for an undersized outlet on my knock off manifold for the coolant return to the radiator and its held up fine for the last 2 years.

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Location: Louisville, KY

Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:47 pm

That sounds like the perfect fix. I'm going look into that. Thanks for the tip.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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superDorifto
Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
Posts: 508
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2005 6:58 pm

Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by superDorifto » Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:58 am

I also used it to wrap my harness after depinning. It's completely waterproof, and looks great.

Not cheap tho...

http://www.amazon.com/Emergency-Repair- ... B00BSXAH06

adamky
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Posts: 3511
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 6:40 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Feb 11, 2016 12:19 pm

Ordered and done. That price isn't bad at all with free Prime shipping and I like the idea of having a little extra to keep in the car for emergency repairs. The stuff at Home Depot didn't have nearly as good reviews either.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Image

adamky
SuperMod
Posts: 3511
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 6:40 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Feb 11, 2016 9:43 pm

Dipstick redone using a torch and a LOT of test fitting and making tiny adjustments to get it juuuuust right. Power steering return line was relocated with the help of the "elbow" that normally connects to the valve cover vent (the port on the VC is now plugged).
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I actually flared the end of the valve cover elbow piece to make sure it wouldn't come off easily
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Finishing up the intercooler pipe fitting.
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Threw the bumper back on just to see how everything fits and looks. The intercooler is tucked back in there pretty good. I've got the Eastwood radiator paint on standby but I just can't make up my mind. I think that I'm going to go through with it. Or maybe not. Or maybe so... :?:
The best part about the intercooler piping is that we were able to route it so that I get to keep my HID driving lights. They pretty much double my light output, so I'm pretty happy about that.
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Cheapo ebay lower downpipe. It's going to need a little work. What's silly is that although the tubing is all 3", the flange that bolts to the upper downpipe was only 2.5". I cut that crap off and I'm going to make it all 3". It's also not long enough or tall enough. Have welder, no worries...
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Bead rollers are cool, but expensive. These aren't quite as nice as a $200+ bead roller, but are surprisingly effective and only cost me $27 and some time. DIY FTW!
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Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Image

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