Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd, S14
- Alonso
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Perfect time to add that union to the feed line
The repair turned out great. I've never heard of alumiweld and I'll definitely keep it in mind
The repair turned out great. I've never heard of alumiweld and I'll definitely keep it in mind
Billet PTE 6765 divided T4, Nismotronic, Speed density, Coil on plug conversion.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I have the union. My buddy doesn't think it's necessary and will just be another spot where a leak could develop. He has a point, and with the Xcessive intake manifold, it shouldn't be that difficult to get to the oil block. I'm torn. Will I be sorry later if I don't add it?
The Alumiweld is cool stuff. It's actually harder than aluminum, so for stuff like that, it's perfect. There was a brief period where I was considering using it to "weld" my intercooler piping together. The problem was that as I would get one side done and flip it over, the side I had just done would split. For larger stuff it's hard to control the heat so welding is a better idea. But for smaller stuff like, for example, adding a 1/8 NPT bung to an existing intercooler tube, it should work pretty well.
The Alumiweld is cool stuff. It's actually harder than aluminum, so for stuff like that, it's perfect. There was a brief period where I was considering using it to "weld" my intercooler piping together. The problem was that as I would get one side done and flip it over, the side I had just done would split. For larger stuff it's hard to control the heat so welding is a better idea. But for smaller stuff like, for example, adding a 1/8 NPT bung to an existing intercooler tube, it should work pretty well.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
More feed line pics now that the upper cover is back on. The good news is all the flanges are still good and flat, so my repair with the MAP torch and Alumiweld didn't cause any warping. I didn't think it would, but you never know.
Alonso, convince me to add the union. Other than making it easier to remove the front cover if I decide to change cam timing, I can't think of many other reasons to add it. Do you think it will be tough to remove the line as it is now once the intake manifold is on and all of the wires/hoses/etc are run under there?
Boost solenoid mounted and plumbed with PTFE stainless braided hose
Lines from solenoid to WG
Tightened the banjo bolts down and removed the WG
And the part that I'm still figuring out... safety wire. I have no experience with this, so I just made a few quick attempts by running the safety wire to the banjo to AN fitting. I'm going to redo them either way, but I'm not sure if this is acceptable, or if I should safety wire the top bolt to the bottom bolt by running it down the side. I'm thinking that just redoing them in the same way as they are now is the way to go. Any advice or recommendations are appreciated.
Alonso, convince me to add the union. Other than making it easier to remove the front cover if I decide to change cam timing, I can't think of many other reasons to add it. Do you think it will be tough to remove the line as it is now once the intake manifold is on and all of the wires/hoses/etc are run under there?
Boost solenoid mounted and plumbed with PTFE stainless braided hose
Lines from solenoid to WG
Tightened the banjo bolts down and removed the WG
And the part that I'm still figuring out... safety wire. I have no experience with this, so I just made a few quick attempts by running the safety wire to the banjo to AN fitting. I'm going to redo them either way, but I'm not sure if this is acceptable, or if I should safety wire the top bolt to the bottom bolt by running it down the side. I'm thinking that just redoing them in the same way as they are now is the way to go. Any advice or recommendations are appreciated.
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- Greaser
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
safety wiring it to itself isnt going to help. I'd put one of the bolts on the diaphram in a lathe and drill through that and tie to that. If you dont have a lathe, then weld a tab onto the top of the canister after disassembly. If you cant do any of that
Locktite
The other thing you could do is get rid of that hachitachi fitting and do a 1/8 npt to -3 and locktight that in the housing.
I'd keep an eye on that hardline a very close one. If it was me i'd have a stainless braid on of the ends.
On of my customers build was an R33 gtr and we an'ed everything. I see what youre trying to accomplish. AN stuff normally doesnt have a problem staying tight, but now that i just said something all your fittings will come loose. All of them, all at once.
Locktite
The other thing you could do is get rid of that hachitachi fitting and do a 1/8 npt to -3 and locktight that in the housing.
I'd keep an eye on that hardline a very close one. If it was me i'd have a stainless braid on of the ends.
On of my customers build was an R33 gtr and we an'ed everything. I see what youre trying to accomplish. AN stuff normally doesnt have a problem staying tight, but now that i just said something all your fittings will come loose. All of them, all at once.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I considered that. My thinking was that the fittings themselves will be somewhat held in place once the lines are mounted. There is some slack in them to allow for engine movement, but it isn't much.Greaser wrote:safety wiring it to itself isnt going to help.
That's true. The holes are 10mm x 1.0, I believe, which has thread pitch that's pretty close to 1/8 NPT. And I have a 1/8 NPT tap. That's actually what I did with my Tial BOV to install a pneumatic push lock fitting on the top.Greaser wrote:The other thing you could do is get rid of that hachitachi fitting and do a 1/8 npt to -3 and locktight that in the housing.
Is hachitachi code for "stupid crap"?
Hmm, I could put one on the feed side. I already have everything I need to do that. The main goal was to eliminate any braided line close to the turbo because the heat can cause it to get brittle over time. Airman had this happen to him and it ruined his turbo: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=55240Greaser wrote:I'd keep an eye on that hardline a very close one. If it was me i'd have a stainless braid on of the ends.
I did a lot of searching on forums before I decided to do this and read that even PTFE hose will get brittle over time from the heat. That's actually the same reason that I had initially planned to hard line the boost control solenoid to the WG. I can't even count how many times I've read online about WG lines popping off and causing overboost and major engine damage.
I literally laughed out loud a little when I read this part because my brain works the exact same way. It's part superstition and part OCD. I actually have gotten into the habit of going through everything that can possibly go wrong and then either talking to my buddy about it or posting something about it online. I have this weird belief that if I expect all of these bad things to happen, they're actually less likely to happen. It really freaks other people out when I start saying all of this right before startup/completion. Everybody's like, "DON'T SAY THAT" and I'm like, "You don't understand... I'm trying to prevent those things from happening". And they be all like...Greaser wrote:On of my customers build was an R33 gtr and we an'ed everything. I see what youre trying to accomplish. AN stuff normally doesnt have a problem staying tight, but now that i just said something all your fittings will come loose. All of them, all at once.
So, in closing, I'm going to spin a bearing, WG lines are going to pop off, the oil feed and oil drain are going to leak, exhaust manifold and all of the turbo gasket are going to leak, and the headgaskt is going to leak, and I probably won't even get the thing started because I probably screwed up my Nistune board when I upgraded the firmware, and the entire car might blow up. There, now I feel better.
If anyone can think of anything else that could go wrong, feel free to post it up so I don't miss anything.
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- s14fiend
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Damn bro looking super clean..... love how it's all coming together bro. It'll be fine and will be fun for you finally get it on the road.
- wesamiss
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Adam,
I'd safety wire the two bolts together. Make sure they have positive pull, and tend to tighten. Also be sure to make the "pigtail" bent over so it doesn't poke or damage anyone or thing. With .32 wire, make sure you have 7-12 twists per inch. Twists should go all the way to the hole, and never untwist. But overall I think you are doing 10x better than any other new person I've seen safety wire anything. Keep it up and you will get it. If you would like, I can post some more rules to follow.
I'll post some pictures in a min.
I'd safety wire the two bolts together. Make sure they have positive pull, and tend to tighten. Also be sure to make the "pigtail" bent over so it doesn't poke or damage anyone or thing. With .32 wire, make sure you have 7-12 twists per inch. Twists should go all the way to the hole, and never untwist. But overall I think you are doing 10x better than any other new person I've seen safety wire anything. Keep it up and you will get it. If you would like, I can post some more rules to follow.
I'll post some pictures in a min.
WES
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thank you for the pics, Wes. After messing around with those banjo bolts some more, I ended up ditching the banjo setup completely and going with 1/8 NPT to -4AN 90* fittings. The precision wastegate is threaded for 10mm x 1.0 banjo bolts. The thread spacing is identical to 1/8 NPT, but unlike NPT, they are not tapered. I ran a 1/8" NPT tap down it just enough to cut into the top threads a little, which allowed the adapters to sit a little bit lower. I'll post some pics tomorrow
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- wesamiss
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Super lame! I love safety wire but I'm too broke to afford to do it anywhere but at work haha
WES
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Yeah, it sure does look cool when you get it right. Those are titanium banjo bolts too
But, the area where the lines run is so tight and hard to get too and I don't want to have to deal with any leaking. Maybe I'll go back and give them another try once I have my own garage to work on the car in.
But, the area where the lines run is so tight and hard to get too and I don't want to have to deal with any leaking. Maybe I'll go back and give them another try once I have my own garage to work on the car in.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
You could bolt the wastegate in its location and then get your fittings to go in the direction you need then pull the wastegate out and safetywire it outside the car. we have to do that with some components that we work on.
WES
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
^I like that idea Wes.
Oh and definitely tuck in those ends after safety wiring (like Wes's pics); I'm sure you've felt how sharp those ends are The hardest part about safety wiring in my opinion is just knowing when to stop; I safety wired my snap rings on the rear LCA ball joints haha
Everything is looking really good. I'm loving that hardline going to the turbo and those braided boost lines. What are you using for controlling boost again?
.
Oh and definitely tuck in those ends after safety wiring (like Wes's pics); I'm sure you've felt how sharp those ends are The hardest part about safety wiring in my opinion is just knowing when to stop; I safety wired my snap rings on the rear LCA ball joints haha
Everything is looking really good. I'm loving that hardline going to the turbo and those braided boost lines. What are you using for controlling boost again?
.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
That's actually what I did when I was messing with the safety wire.wesamiss wrote:You could bolt the wastegate in its location and then get your fittings to go in the direction you need then pull the wastegate out and safetywire it outside the car. we have to do that with some components that we work on.
Thanks man. The ends are sharp. If I was to use it, I'd make those ends a little longer so I could tuck them in. It was tough to know when to stop.. A little too much twist and it broke off.cleantune wrote: Oh and definitely tuck in those ends after safety wiring (like Wes's pics); I'm sure you've felt how sharp those ends are The hardest part about safety wiring in my opinion is just knowing when to stop; I safety wired my snap rings on the rear LCA ball joints haha
Everything is looking really good. I'm loving that hardline going to the turbo and those braided boost lines. What are you using for controlling boost again?
.
I'm using a Turbosmart E-boost controller.
I covered the low pressure AC line in DEI Firesleeve. I had to split it, of course, and I wasn't sure what was the best way to secure it to the line. I ended up using some of that aluminum foil tape that they sell at hardware stores. Even if the heat messes up the adhesive on the tape, the stuff still holds it's shape, so I think this will work out okay. I also installed the heat shield for the BMC and reservior.
The PCV setup is coming along. I have the mounting brackets made and welded to the tank. To mount it in the trunk, I installed four M10 bolts from the bottom and welded them in to make studs. The tank brackets have holes in them and I'm using wing nuts to secure it. So, the tank can go in and out with relative ease. I did a lot of trial fitting in order to keep anything from hitting the tank when the trunk closes, but still have it high enough that I can easily reach underneath and loosen the wing nuts.
The tank is lower in the back because that's where the drain will be
While figuring out how I was going to run the lines from the engine bay to the trunk, I realized that there is a 3/8" hard line that is normally used for the EVAP system that is now unused. I'm going to use this for the vacuum connection from the intake manifold to the check valve and tank. I'll use the push-lock hose on each end to connect the lines.
I had some trouble figuring out how I was going to get the lines into the trunk. The hose kinks if you bend it too much, and we don't want that. What I ended up going with were some brass NPT fittings from Home Depot.
The lines will connect to the fittings in the back right corner of the spare tire well. Here it is from underneath where it goes into the trunk.
And here's what the other side looks like from inside the trunk
From inside the trunk, I'll run more push lock hose from the fittings in the well, up and under the rear package tray before coming back down to right angle fittings on the tank. There's a 12 inch sub that goes in the middle of the trunk all the way back, so the lines have to go over it.
Here's a shot of everything so far
I just need to weld another NPT fitting on the top of the tank for the other 1/2" hose, one for the hose that will go to the vacuum/boost sensor, and one for the ball valve that will be located at the bottom for draining the tank. The plan is to have it set up so that I will be able to drain the tank without removing it from the car, but if I need to remove it, it will come out fairly easily.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Awesome stuff...glad to see you keep putting theories to the test.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thanks man. All credit for the idea goes to Greaser though. I'm just a copycat.supakat wrote:Awesome stuff...glad to see you keep putting theories to the test.
The tank is just about finished. Just need to fix a few pin hole leaks in my welds and then paint it. The tube going to that small black box on the left side is for the vacuum/boost gauge.
The blue oil drain tube at the bottom will go through a grommet and exit out of the bottom of the spare tire well. This way I can drain the tank without having to remove it from the car.
Thanks to mewantkouki's help, it's starting to look like a motor.
We primed the engine and made sure it was getting oil pressure and oil was flowing through the turbo feed. And then it kinda/sorta ran for 20 seconds. I think my dizzy is off a tooth. Hopefully I'll get it sorted out tomorrow.
https://youtu.be/3iYRh2RRnHI
The fuel rail is one of my favorite parts. The aluminum injector "caps" were a PITA to plate, but they turned out half way decent.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Looking good, looking good
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thanks man. I set the motor back to TDC and restabbed the distributor. It's better, but still not right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NusPROkHaQ8
I've set base timing a bunch of times over the years and I've never had any trouble getting it set correctly, but I'm fairly certain that's still my issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NusPROkHaQ8
I've set base timing a bunch of times over the years and I've never had any trouble getting it set correctly, but I'm fairly certain that's still my issue.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Have you tried jumping it 1 tooth forward or 1 tooth back?
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Yes, I have.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I think I finally got the timing right: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNjKu8Dei-8
I didn't have to give it much gas to get it going, whereas before I was giving it a lot of throttle just to keep it barely running.
I didn't have to give it much gas to get it going, whereas before I was giving it a lot of throttle just to keep it barely running.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Just for future reference, I hunted through parts websites trying to find a TPS sensor for a 91 Q45 and there were many different options. I decided to order one through Pep Boys website and have it delivered to the local store so that if it was not the right part, it would be easier to return it for a refund. The one that I ordered is Part # EC3145 and SKU: 9800809Alonso wrote:duncan351 wrote:Is there a nissan tps that work reverse without having to be modified?
Yes. Early 90's q45 tps works. That what I'm running on my ebay billet throttle body.
Most Nissan TPS sensors work in a clockwise direction from idle to WOT. The Q45 TPS is the opposite, spinning counter-clockwise from idle to WOT. The one I received from Pep Boys has the arrow going the correct way. The sensor has a Nissan logo on it, and judging by the liberal use of sealant, I'd say this is a re-manufactured OEM Nissan sensor.
Pics
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
It's amazing how much better an engine can look with a little paint marker and some zip ties:
Hoping to have tires on pavement this weekend. Ran into an issue with fitment because the Mr.Gasket Copper gasket is very thick and this threw off the downpipe alignment quite a bit. Going to either use a stock style gasket, high temp RTV, or find some thin copper sheet to make my own gasket. I could also try annealing the copper gasket and maybe get it to crush and seal a little better.
Hoping to have tires on pavement this weekend. Ran into an issue with fitment because the Mr.Gasket Copper gasket is very thick and this threw off the downpipe alignment quite a bit. Going to either use a stock style gasket, high temp RTV, or find some thin copper sheet to make my own gasket. I could also try annealing the copper gasket and maybe get it to crush and seal a little better.
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- Greaser
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
stock style composite graphite lead steel gasket should be all you need as long as the manifold flange is flat.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
The flange is very flat. I tried to account for gaskets as I was making the downpipe, but I never opened the package to see just how thick the copper gasket would be. It's literally twice as thick as the Fel Pro when you take into account the raised portion around each cylinder. I thought about using a torch to anneal it, but I'm just going to go with the Fel Pro.
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- Alonso
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Yup I've never had issues with the fel pro exhaust mangold gaskets either
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Good news... manifold and turbo are mounted and oil feed/drain connected. The bad news, I've got a pretty good exhaust leak where the turbine housing bolts up to the upper downpipe. Going with a 4 bolt over V-band was a BIG mistake. There is no room to tighten the 2 lower bolts. I had to buy a short/stubby 12mm wrench and still had to take a torch to it and bend it to make it work. I cannot get the lower bolt closest to the manifold any tighter and that's where it's leaking.
Still, I can't help but be happy that nothing has blown up (yet). Keep in mind this is my first turbo car, so just getting this far is great.
Tomorrow I will tackle the downpipe issue. Once that's done I can hook up the wideband and adjust the tune as it's pretty rich right now. Of course, I'll have to put the rest of the intercooler piping on as well as the radiator/coolant before I can attempt any more quick startups.
Here's the video. The rest of the exhaust isn't yet connected. It's just the upper downpipe. Still, I was surprised at how smooth and quiet it was. I'm not hearing much piston slap or the typical KA valvetrain noise.
The turbo closeup after shut off is for my buddy Tom, who has had to stare at this rice burner in his garage for about 6 months now and hasn't yet seen the engine running with the turbo on it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4ymSM9SGvk
Still, I can't help but be happy that nothing has blown up (yet). Keep in mind this is my first turbo car, so just getting this far is great.
Tomorrow I will tackle the downpipe issue. Once that's done I can hook up the wideband and adjust the tune as it's pretty rich right now. Of course, I'll have to put the rest of the intercooler piping on as well as the radiator/coolant before I can attempt any more quick startups.
Here's the video. The rest of the exhaust isn't yet connected. It's just the upper downpipe. Still, I was surprised at how smooth and quiet it was. I'm not hearing much piston slap or the typical KA valvetrain noise.
The turbo closeup after shut off is for my buddy Tom, who has had to stare at this rice burner in his garage for about 6 months now and hasn't yet seen the engine running with the turbo on it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4ymSM9SGvk
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Sounds so nice, you're right it is really quiet. Great on finally getting it to idle and you'll love the boost!
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thank you sir.
I had to grind down the spots on the flange where the nuts were sitting because the welding on the downpipe was preventing them from sitting flat. After doing that, I bolted the downpipe to the turbo and then installed it onto the manifold. Everything is bolted up and so far, no leaks. I'll say this though.. it all has to be bolted up in a very specific order for everything to fit and I am NOT looking forward to having to take anything apart.
We ran it for 20 minutes @ 2000 rpm while checking for oil and coolant leaks. It was running slightly hot @ 205 degrees, and the lower radiator hose never got very warm, so I may have a thermostat issue. Or there might just be some air still in the system. I'll check that out tomorrow after an oil change. I've got a little bit of wiring to finish up and I have to drill out some bolts that snapped off so I can get the front end parts back on. I'm hoping to take it for it's first drive tomorrow.
I had to grind down the spots on the flange where the nuts were sitting because the welding on the downpipe was preventing them from sitting flat. After doing that, I bolted the downpipe to the turbo and then installed it onto the manifold. Everything is bolted up and so far, no leaks. I'll say this though.. it all has to be bolted up in a very specific order for everything to fit and I am NOT looking forward to having to take anything apart.
We ran it for 20 minutes @ 2000 rpm while checking for oil and coolant leaks. It was running slightly hot @ 205 degrees, and the lower radiator hose never got very warm, so I may have a thermostat issue. Or there might just be some air still in the system. I'll check that out tomorrow after an oil change. I've got a little bit of wiring to finish up and I have to drill out some bolts that snapped off so I can get the front end parts back on. I'm hoping to take it for it's first drive tomorrow.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:46 pm
- Location: Orlando, Fl
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread