Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd, S14
- wesamiss
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 357
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- Location: Orlando, FL
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Is that a MAF I see in that coldside intercooler piping?
I think I missed what tune you were going to use.
I think I missed what tune you were going to use.
WES
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Yes, it's a Z32 MAF in an aluminum housing. I'm using Nistune which is MAF-only. I also have an AEM Series 1 EMS and "big power" fuel setup that are not installed. If I don't end up being forced to sell it all to pay bills, it will eventually go on the car and then I'll be switching to E85 and aiming for 550+ whp.
Speaking of Nistune, I had to order a Base Image programmer from "down under" so that I could use the latest features which include fan control and.... finally.. LAUNCH CONTROL!! I've been waiting 7 years for them to add this feature!
Nistune Base Image Programmer
Intercooler stealth mode
Had a local welder (and fellow S14 owner) who was kind enough to bring his welder to the garage and take care of my intercooler piping for me. He also welded a cast elbow onto the compressor housing.
Random shot of the CEA compressor wheel. So purdy!
Intercooler piping
Tial Q50
And finally, an aerial shot with the piping all in place
Speaking of Nistune, I had to order a Base Image programmer from "down under" so that I could use the latest features which include fan control and.... finally.. LAUNCH CONTROL!! I've been waiting 7 years for them to add this feature!
Nistune Base Image Programmer
Intercooler stealth mode
Had a local welder (and fellow S14 owner) who was kind enough to bring his welder to the garage and take care of my intercooler piping for me. He also welded a cast elbow onto the compressor housing.
Random shot of the CEA compressor wheel. So purdy!
Intercooler piping
Tial Q50
And finally, an aerial shot with the piping all in place
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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- wesamiss
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:34 pm
- Location: Orlando, FL
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I am just curious, why would you not just go with Megasquirt? It looks great so far. I love that MAF housing.
WES
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
That might be an option in the future, but I don't know much about it. I've been using Nistune for 7-8 years and it's all I know. With a fully rebuilt motor and a ton of changes that I've made, I don't want to have to be learning how to tune a new system while I am breaking in the motor. There's also a time issue. I need this thing running like yesterday. Setting up a new EMS and learning about it will take time. Last but certainly not least... money. I'm broke and building credit card debt daily.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I've been watching this thread for a while and can't wait to see this thing run! Louisville, KY here too. I've only seen one or two other 240sx's rolling around.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Oh, cool, another Louisvillian. It's crazy how rare it is to see a 240 these day. 5 years ago, I would see them all the time.
Have you heard of 502streetscene.com? It's one of the biggest local car forums but its pretty dead now. I've got a build thread going on there as well.
Have you heard of 502streetscene.com? It's one of the biggest local car forums but its pretty dead now. I've got a build thread going on there as well.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I'm here for school. haha Not an original Louisvillian. I have heard of 502streetscene but I'm not on it. I saw a beat up red hatch delivering pizzas a gold base model zenki with a smashed rear quarter and a rusted out base model kouki. Pickings are slim in these parts!
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Which school and what are you studying? And how do you like The 'Ville so far? If you're originally from Florida, I bet you're hating this weather right now. How old are you? There are a lot of good places to eat and drink, especially in the Highlands
You're welcome to stop by the shop (my buddy's garage) one day soon and check out the progress on my car or even turn a few wrenches.. It's down in the Highlands off of Bonnycastle. With a little help, I may be able to get this thing runnimg by the end of next weekend.
You're welcome to stop by the shop (my buddy's garage) one day soon and check out the progress on my car or even turn a few wrenches.. It's down in the Highlands off of Bonnycastle. With a little help, I may be able to get this thing runnimg by the end of next weekend.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
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- Location: Orlando, Fl
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
PM sent! If you don't get it, pm me your number and I'll shoot you a text.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
The OBX lower downpipe just flat out sucked and after cutting and hacking the thing to death, I still didn't like the fitment. So, I went to Pep Boys because they actually carry mandrel bent steel tubing from Vibrant Performance now. I bought a 3" 90* and used it along with the flange and flex section of the OBX to make this. It fit much better and was also a smoother transition than the OBX was. (Also, I'm going to warn you in advance that I'm using a MIG welder and I know my welding sucks.)
I got it all just like I wanted it, and then removed the jack stand holding up the end of the downpipe and watched it drop an inch and a half. Doh! Time to add another exhaust hanger.
Much better fit. It's about 3/8" from the bottom of the floorboard.
This is about the best weld I can lay down with this welder. (Ignore the left side which obviously looks like crap!)
I finished welding the lower downpipe and then decided that I didn't like the rather sharp 90* that the upper downpipe had so I went and got another 3" 90* from Pep Boys. Here's the old downpipe compared to the new pipe.
I cut the pipe off a few inches after the turbo, and made this. I still need to weld on a couple O2 sensor bungs for my wideband and OEM sensor.
More crappy MIG welding. It will be covered by heat wrap, so whateva.
I then realized that before I recirculate the wastegate, I should probably go ahead and assemble and install the -10 AN turbo drain so that I could see how much room I had to work with.
Tomorrow I will work on the WG recirculation.
Major things that I still have to do:
1. Cut and drill the mounting tabs on the 125A Nissan Quest alternator so it fits in place of the stocker.
2. Run the turbo oil feed hard line and find a way to secure and mount the inline filter
3. Fab up some way to securely mount the 5 gallon air tank for PCV to the trunk, drill and weld fittings onto it, run line from engine to trunk
4. Remove IAT gauge from my custom center gauge panel and mount and wire the PCV vacuum/boost gauge in it's place
5. Install heat shielding for BMC, A/C line, power steering line, etc. Wrap upper downpipe.
6. Zinc plate the injector "caps" that hold the injectors in the factory fuel rail and also plate a few random bolts that I overlooked
7. Drill out and re-tap all of the fender bolts that were rusted and snapped off during removal
I got it all just like I wanted it, and then removed the jack stand holding up the end of the downpipe and watched it drop an inch and a half. Doh! Time to add another exhaust hanger.
Much better fit. It's about 3/8" from the bottom of the floorboard.
This is about the best weld I can lay down with this welder. (Ignore the left side which obviously looks like crap!)
I finished welding the lower downpipe and then decided that I didn't like the rather sharp 90* that the upper downpipe had so I went and got another 3" 90* from Pep Boys. Here's the old downpipe compared to the new pipe.
I cut the pipe off a few inches after the turbo, and made this. I still need to weld on a couple O2 sensor bungs for my wideband and OEM sensor.
More crappy MIG welding. It will be covered by heat wrap, so whateva.
I then realized that before I recirculate the wastegate, I should probably go ahead and assemble and install the -10 AN turbo drain so that I could see how much room I had to work with.
Tomorrow I will work on the WG recirculation.
Major things that I still have to do:
1. Cut and drill the mounting tabs on the 125A Nissan Quest alternator so it fits in place of the stocker.
2. Run the turbo oil feed hard line and find a way to secure and mount the inline filter
3. Fab up some way to securely mount the 5 gallon air tank for PCV to the trunk, drill and weld fittings onto it, run line from engine to trunk
4. Remove IAT gauge from my custom center gauge panel and mount and wire the PCV vacuum/boost gauge in it's place
5. Install heat shielding for BMC, A/C line, power steering line, etc. Wrap upper downpipe.
6. Zinc plate the injector "caps" that hold the injectors in the factory fuel rail and also plate a few random bolts that I overlooked
7. Drill out and re-tap all of the fender bolts that were rusted and snapped off during removal
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Just got done reading through all your threads.
Saw you honed the mains. How much did they move them? I'm worried about off-centering the oil pump.
That Skullworks plate still working out for you? It's a shame so much support has been lost. Trying to get CAD files or something to start reproducing parts.
Saw you honed the mains. How much did they move them? I'm worried about off-centering the oil pump.
That Skullworks plate still working out for you? It's a shame so much support has been lost. Trying to get CAD files or something to start reproducing parts.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I'm not sure. I had the engine work done over 5 years ago and I don't know where the paperwork is. I've never heard of anyone having issues with honing causing the oil pump to be misaligned or off-center though.
The Skullworks block is still doing fine. I would like to replace the o-rings as they look a little deformed now, but I haven't started looking for replacements. I know superdorifto searched high and low and never could find an o-ring that was the right size.
The Skullworks block is still doing fine. I would like to replace the o-rings as they look a little deformed now, but I haven't started looking for replacements. I know superdorifto searched high and low and never could find an o-ring that was the right size.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Build is looking great bro, I'll be asking you for help on my nistune don't quite know how to fine tune the fuel on high boost.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thanks! Read through that Nistune tuning guide I sent you and you'll find that it's not all that difficult, especially since you said you only need to lean out your WOT. Did you get the latest Nistune feature pack flashed onto your board?
I didn't like the angle of the oil drain so I ditched the straight 1/2" NPT to -10AN adapter and 45 degree hose end and instead, I went with a 45 degree 1/2" NPT to -10AN adapter and a straight hose end. It's a very tight fit since it is directly under the back of the A/C compressor, but it does fit.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Recirculating the wastegate proved to be a bit trickier than I expected. There's not much room to run it between the frame rail and the steering shaft. The upper part was actually fairly easy to figure out. The re-entry into the downpipe was the tough part.
This was the first time I have ever done anything like this, so I used some clear plastic tubing to try and get my template to cut the tubing. Using clear tubing allowed me to see both sides to figure out where to trim the tube.
I started with this...
...and after a lot of test fitting and trimming, I had my template to use to cut the pipe...
...which also allowed me to trace where I needed to cut a hole in the downpipe
Result:
That was probably the most difficult part of the process.
With that part finished, I put the lower DP back on so I could finish fitting everything. Then I tacked it all in place and removed it from the car to finish welding.
And after welding. (I feel like my welding is getting a little better, but I guess that's not saying much)
And thanks to careful fitment, it all slides in place and bolts up perfectly
This was probably the most complex thing I have ever fabbed out of steel, so it took waaaay more time than I expected it to, but I am very happy with the results.
I didn't like the angle of the oil drain so I ditched the straight 1/2" NPT to -10AN adapter and 45 degree hose end and instead, I went with a 45 degree 1/2" NPT to -10AN adapter and a straight hose end. It's a very tight fit since it is directly under the back of the A/C compressor, but it does fit.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Recirculating the wastegate proved to be a bit trickier than I expected. There's not much room to run it between the frame rail and the steering shaft. The upper part was actually fairly easy to figure out. The re-entry into the downpipe was the tough part.
This was the first time I have ever done anything like this, so I used some clear plastic tubing to try and get my template to cut the tubing. Using clear tubing allowed me to see both sides to figure out where to trim the tube.
I started with this...
...and after a lot of test fitting and trimming, I had my template to use to cut the pipe...
...which also allowed me to trace where I needed to cut a hole in the downpipe
Result:
That was probably the most difficult part of the process.
With that part finished, I put the lower DP back on so I could finish fitting everything. Then I tacked it all in place and removed it from the car to finish welding.
And after welding. (I feel like my welding is getting a little better, but I guess that's not saying much)
And thanks to careful fitment, it all slides in place and bolts up perfectly
This was probably the most complex thing I have ever fabbed out of steel, so it took waaaay more time than I expected it to, but I am very happy with the results.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Nice progress. Glad to see her getting done.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
- superDorifto
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
So I went back and read your post and Greaser's build - I'm thinking I'm going to blatantly steal the same PVC set up. Credit to Greaser for coming up with this, but I just wan to be sure that I've got my routing right.
- Valve cover is plugged - Front and Rear Main Seal reversed...
- Line from de-oiler on the side of the block to the vacuum tank.
- Other line pulls vacuum from the individual intake runners with an inline check valve to shut it off under boost
Sound right?
- Valve cover is plugged - Front and Rear Main Seal reversed...
- Line from de-oiler on the side of the block to the vacuum tank.
- Other line pulls vacuum from the individual intake runners with an inline check valve to shut it off under boost
Sound right?
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Wow, you're really moving along with this project! That is such a great idea to use clear plastic tubing to get the angle correct. Those welds look waay better than mine would, hah. If you don't mind me asking, what voltage are you running with the welder? 120 or 240? and are you using shielding gas?
.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
That's pretty much it. The only real difference between mine and Greaser's (other than the actual location of the air tank) is that he is using the stock intake manifold setup with a tube under each individual runner, and I am just going to use the one 1/4" NPT port on the bottom of the Xcessive plenum.superDorifto wrote:So I went back and read your post and Greaser's build - I'm thinking I'm going to blatantly steal the same PVC set up. Credit to Greaser for coming up with this, but I just wan to be sure that I've got my routing right.
- Valve cover is plugged - Front and Rear Main Seal reversed...
- Line from de-oiler on the side of the block to the vacuum tank.
- Other line pulls vacuum from the individual intake runners with an inline check valve to shut it off under boost
Sound right?
I dont know if i posted this part yet, but I'm using Fragola's push lock hose in 3/8" and 1/2". It was about the only hose that I could find that was rated for gas/oil/ethanol as well as being rated to up to 28in/HG vacuum. It wasn't cheap, but I didn't feel comfortable using something that might detiorate from blow by gases or crush under high vacuum.
Thanks dude. It is a 120V and the gas is 75% Argon and 25% CO2. I can post a pic and the model number later today.cleantune wrote:Wow, you're really moving along with this project! That is such a great idea to use clear plastic tubing to get the angle correct. Those welds look waay better than mine would, hah. If you don't mind me asking, what voltage are you running with the welder? 120 or 240? and are you using shielding gas?
The one thing slowing me down now is my back issues flaring up again. I put in a lot of time on Friday and Saturday and when I woke up Sunday, I had such intense back pain that I was stuck in bed all day. It was radiating down into my left leg, which means I've probably irritated my herniated disc. I couldn't even stand or sit up for more than a few minutes without intense pain. Most of the pain is gone now but the bottom of my left foot and my toes are constantly tingling and pretty numb.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
What are you going to do about that low pressure AC line..? It looks pretty close to the dump pipe.
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Yes, it's very close. I'm going to use DEI Firesleeve on the entire A/C line: https://www.designengineering.com/categ ... -tape-kits. I'm also using it over the turbo oil drain and the power steering return lines. I've also considered wrapping the parts of the dump pipe that run real close to the A/C line in exhaust wrap.mewantkouki wrote:What are you going to do about that low pressure AC line..? It looks pretty close to the dump pipe.
Here's a picture of the welder. It's not a bad welder at all for only $400. For the first year or two that we used it, we didn't know what the hell we were doing. We were running current way too low and we had trouble just getting spot welds to hold anything together. We realized last year that we needed more current and now it is doing a decent job.
And if you want to know why it takes me so long to do anything, it's goofy little stuff like this that I spend far too much time on. This was the "tool" that I made to tighten the NPT to AN fitting that goes into the oil pan. Long story short, there was nothing in the garage that could get the fitting tightened due to limited space and the fact that I could really only tighten it from one side. I'm embarrassed to say how much time I wasted on this stupid thing. It's ugly, but it did the job.
Tonight was one of those nights that I had to just stop and pick up tools and clean up a bit, so I didn't get a whole lot done. The part that sucks about all of this metal fab is that everything in the garage gets coated in shavings and grinding dust. It makes me really nervous because I keep worrying that some of it might get into the engine, or an oil feed line. I try to be super careful, but it's tough when shaving and dust are just everywhere.
I did have some time to mock up the hard line oil feed with some leftover copper tubing from a split A/C system. I used the same tools and bender that I will be using for the actual feed line that will be stainless steel. So, this was a great little practice session. And now I can use the copper line to know where my bends and flares need to be. The filter is from Forced Performance and has a built in restrictor specifically for BB turbos: http://www.forcedperformance.net/PROD/FP4ANFilter.html
Oh, a big thanks to Alonso for helping me figure out what fittings and tubing to use for the oil feed: 1/4" seamless annealed SS tubing with -4 tube nuts and sleeves
I tried figuring it all out myself and ended up with a big mess of various fittings and adapters.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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- BigLoukaT
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I'm with ya on the back/disk issues. Very painful and intrusive.
Killer idea on the clear tubing to gauge the recirc tube!
Killer idea on the clear tubing to gauge the recirc tube!
1990 S13
Boosted single slammer
MS DIYPNP
Boosted single slammer
MS DIYPNP
npx from 240sxforums wrote:i figure from my very limited knowledge about the 240 and under the hood about cars in general i would follow the sr20det trend.
- Alonso
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thanks for the shout out adamky. That's Going to look great in stainless!
Have you thought about adding a male to male Union somewhere near the front timing cover? It would make removing the front cover easier when needed without having to completely remove the hardline from the engine/oil filter adapter.
Have you thought about adding a male to male Union somewhere near the front timing cover? It would make removing the front cover easier when needed without having to completely remove the hardline from the engine/oil filter adapter.
Billet PTE 6765 divided T4, Nismotronic, Speed density, Coil on plug conversion.
AWS D17.1 certified
Follow me on Instagram: @alonso240
AWS D17.1 certified
Follow me on Instagram: @alonso240
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I hadn't even though about that, but that's a really good idea. The stainless line is 95% done, but adding a union won't be a big deal. I have extra tube nuts and sleeves. Just need a -4 to -4 union. That would certainly make things easier when I go back and mess with cam timing. Although I've made cam timing adjustments in the past without removing the upper cover, it will probably be a bit trickier with the mechanically locked chain tensioners.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I haven't added the male to male junction yet, but the line is done other than that. It "only" took me 2 tries for the large piece, and ironically, 3 for the small piece from the filter to the turbo. I know how perfectly aligned these need to be to seal correctly, and for some reason I had trouble getting the smaller one lined up. Luckily, I had extra tubing because I had originally planned to run hard line for the boost controller solenoid too.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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- Alonso
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Turned out great. The lines are a pain to make but it's one shot deal that'll last a lifetime.
How much longer until you can fire up the car?
How much longer until you can fire up the car?
Billet PTE 6765 divided T4, Nismotronic, Speed density, Coil on plug conversion.
AWS D17.1 certified
Follow me on Instagram: @alonso240
AWS D17.1 certified
Follow me on Instagram: @alonso240
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
Thanks man. I'm hoping to get it fired up in the next few days, but I keep finding little crap that I need to do.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
So do we need to buy something extra in order to use the Launch Control?
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
The board may need to have the firmware updated. If your board was manufactured in the last year, then it probably has the new firmware. If not, you need to either have a Nistune dealer flash the new firmware onto the board, or you need to buy a base image programmer and do it yourself. I bought the programmer so I can do future firmware updates if necessary.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
I've been meaning to get this book for a long time now, so I went ahead and picked up a used version off of Amazon.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,
So, when I was working on my oil feed line, I put the screws in the upper front cover to mount the line supports. As I was tightening the one on the left, the head of the bolt snapped off. I wasn't even putting much force on it, so I have no idea how that happened. I drilled the bolt out, but one side of the threads was gone. I tried drilling and re-tapping , but somehow, I cross threaded the bolt, and now it was looking like I'd have to drill it out even more. This is the kind of stuff that happens when I'm finishing a project.
So, rather than drill and retap it for an even larger bolt, I decided to attempt to repair it using some low temp welding/brazing rods called Alumiweld: http://www.alumiweld.com
Having played with this stuff on some 16 gauge aluminum intercooler tubing as well as on some larger cast aluminum pieces, I knew my biggest issue would be getting enough heat into the part to get the Alumiweld to melt and fill the hole. A propane torch is fine on thin intercooler tubing, but on larger/thicker parts, it just can't provide enough heat into the part. So, I made my daily stop at Home Depot and picked up a MAP torch. That should do the job.
I was a little worried that I could possibly put too much heat into the part and cause the timing cover to warp. A little browsing told me that aluminum will warp at 1165. So, i think I'll be fine since the alumiweld melts @730*. I tried heating if from the side, but that wouldn't get the bottom hot enough enough to melt the alumiweld. So, I heated it from the underneath/inside the cover and then I kept pushing the Alumiweld rod into the bottom of the hole til it started to melt, and then just kept feeding the rod into it until it filled up.
Then it was just a matter of filing it down flat, drilling and then retapping it. Now I can move onto more important matter.
So, rather than drill and retap it for an even larger bolt, I decided to attempt to repair it using some low temp welding/brazing rods called Alumiweld: http://www.alumiweld.com
Having played with this stuff on some 16 gauge aluminum intercooler tubing as well as on some larger cast aluminum pieces, I knew my biggest issue would be getting enough heat into the part to get the Alumiweld to melt and fill the hole. A propane torch is fine on thin intercooler tubing, but on larger/thicker parts, it just can't provide enough heat into the part. So, I made my daily stop at Home Depot and picked up a MAP torch. That should do the job.
I was a little worried that I could possibly put too much heat into the part and cause the timing cover to warp. A little browsing told me that aluminum will warp at 1165. So, i think I'll be fine since the alumiweld melts @730*. I tried heating if from the side, but that wouldn't get the bottom hot enough enough to melt the alumiweld. So, I heated it from the underneath/inside the cover and then I kept pushing the Alumiweld rod into the bottom of the hole til it started to melt, and then just kept feeding the rod into it until it filled up.
Then it was just a matter of filing it down flat, drilling and then retapping it. Now I can move onto more important matter.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread