Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd, S14

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Fri Sep 18, 2015 12:18 pm

Due to some crazy unexpected bills, I have no choice but to dial my plans for this waaay back. I'm thinking about sticking with Nistune, keeping the current fuel system with A340 pump and 740cc injectors, and will probably use a stock intake manifold. I'll probably just run 93oct pump gas and keep the water/meth kit on the car so I can crank the boost up past 16-18psi occasionally. This way I can still tune it myself and avoid the cost of paying a tuner and paying for dyno time.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by Alonso » Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:15 pm

Are you still forced to run a maf with nistune? Have you looked into nismotronic?
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Sun Sep 20, 2015 1:43 am

Yes, Nistune is still MAF only. I have an aluminum MAF housing that I put the sensor from a Z32 MAF into and I plan to run it as a blow through setup so I can run the BOV VTA (for simplicity, not to be a ricer!).

Nismotronic looks really cool. Looks like it has a lot of options that Nistune doesn't have. However, I need to stick with what I currently have for now, and everything else will be up for sale.

It makes me sad because my fuel setup was going to be pretty pimp: Powerhouse Racing billet fuel hat, dual Walbro 450s, stainless braided -8AN hose throughout, 2000cc ID injectors, OBX fuel rail, Mallory FPR.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:46 am

.
makin' us all drool with those parts you just listed, haha. I hadn't heard of "Powerhouse" or "Mallory". Is there any reason you chose Mallory over the ever-so-popular Aeromotive or Fuel Lab FPRs?

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Sun Sep 20, 2015 2:56 pm

The Powerhouse billet fuel hat replaces the stock plastic fuel hat that your fuel hoses and fuel pump wiring run through. It allows you to run dual fuel pumps and directly connect -8AN fuel lines. Link: http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-4597- ... 3-r34.aspx
Also seen in Duron's build thread: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=62076

Mallory has been around for a while and they make quality products. This is the FPR I have which allows direct connection of -8AN feed and return lines: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-29389/overview/

With the -8AN fuel line throughout and 2000cc Injector Dynamics injectors, it's a 800+ whp fuel setup.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Wed Sep 23, 2015 4:37 pm

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I looked up those parts you listed and whoa, that is a mean setup!

Any new updates with the motor build?
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Sep 24, 2015 2:37 pm

No updates yet. Spending my time right now port-matching the Xcessive intake manifold to the head. Overall, I'm not super impressed with the Xcessive manifold. It's a rough casting, and the little bit of machining that had to be done to the injector holes is piss-poor.

I just uploaded this quick video from a few weeks ago showing the intake valve during a leak down test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siKYKpCN-2s.

You can see bubbles where the air is working it's way past the valve. The exhaust side leaked way more than the intake did, but no bubbles because all of the gunk was crusty as opposed to gooey. I could put my hand in front of the exhaust ports and feel the air coming out. Also, every exhaust valve had a dark spot somewhere on the seat where it clearly wasn't getting a good seal.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by nissanfanatic » Thu Sep 24, 2015 2:50 pm

Look like you may be able to just lap them?
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Sep 24, 2015 6:34 pm

nissanfanatic wrote:Look like you may be able to just lap them?
I may have been able to get away with that, but the valves had a lot of wobble within the guides and the stems were necked pretty good, so I didn't feel real comfortable just putting it back together as-is. I'll try to remember to take a pic of the stock valve stems so you can see how bad it was. Regardless, I'm having the head rebuilt with all new BC valves, springs, guides.


I tried to take a good picture of how rough the injector bosses are on this Xcessive intake manifold. The only one that looks decent is the last one pictured, closest to the front of the motor. The others have grooves scored into them.

Image
Image
Image
Image


I'm trying to use the stock fuel rail and my 740cc side feeds with it. They include some O-rings for using the stock injectors and rail and the O-rings are supposed to "seat" into the larger "cone" part of the boss. That part of the bosses isn't quite as rough as the holes themselves, but I just don't have a lot of confidence that this alone will provide a good seal. I'm temped to cut up a stock manifold, weld a flange onto it, and just use the plenum from the Xcessive.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Fri Sep 25, 2015 11:58 am

adamky wrote: That part of the bosses isn't quite as rough as the holes themselves, but I just don't have a lot of confidence that this alone will provide a good seal. I'm temped to cut up a stock manifold, weld a flange onto it, and just use the plenum from the Xcessive.

They definitely don't look perfectly smooth, but they don't seem too bad. How do they compare to the OEM "injector sockets"? The casting itself could be at fault for the way injector sockets turned out after they were machined- you know, just the inconsistencies in material density that can be present in cast parts.

I wonder if Xcessive would guarantee things like this?
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Re: CHAPTER 3...

Post by supakat » Fri Oct 02, 2015 9:06 am

adamky wrote:Here's a little bit that I scraped out of one of the intake ports. This is just from a small portion of ONE side of an intake port.
Image
Now look at this pic...burnt sugar.
Image
Food for thought...I am not saying anyone is wrong but just point out the gunk issues. I have this issue as well on the 240 and 2001 Explorer and I think E85 and temperature are the culprits. My pistons are clean but I do get gunk on the injectors and intake ports. E85 is mostly corn but can be made from other things but lets just focus on corn. Caramel is burnt sugar. When you burn sugar in a pan, it starts to get light brown, then darker and darker sludge until black crust. It will smoke a lot as well. Corn is also called sweet corn and also not used in many diets because of the sugars in has naturally. So when the fuel is stagnant after you turn off the car, it will still have fuel remnants on the injector and port from the last cycle when the car turned off. The heat from running will warm up the fuel and basically cook it. E85 also has water properties so once the chemical breakdown happens, things happen differently. I am not saying I am right or this is true but there is some validity in my point and trying to people think out of the box for a change.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Mon Oct 05, 2015 7:25 pm

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I agree, I think there is validity in thinking that maybe the engine running rich (as you had mentioned earlier, with proof being the smoothing of the cylinder walls) left some "excess" fuel on the injectors and inside the intake and then it just absorbed the heat from the hot engine and turned into this dark "gunk".

Supposedly there are a few different blends of ethanol gas all under the E85 label too, which are selected for gas stations based on temp climate they are in. I've read some just have additives, while others are adjusted ratios of petroleum to ethanol. Not sure if that would be helpful for the "gunk" mystery, but maybe for future tuning?

This is definitely interesting stuff. Those newer "flex-fuel" capable standalones would be great for a situation like this!

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by supakat » Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:20 pm

Sorry Adam for the hijack but this is relevant stuff. I will try to minimize it.

Here is the seasonal chart. 1 is 85%, 2 is 78%, 3 is 70%.
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/audioen ... 4.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/audioen ... 5.jpg.html

I just read this excerpt. I will need to really research it rather than skimming through.
http://ethanolrfa.3cdn.net/4eea401b7975 ... 6bhv0i.pdf
Solvent Washed Gum/Unwashed Gum: Solvent washed gum can contribute to fuel system deposits. The unwashed gum content is set to limit high boiling point components such as diesel fuel. The difference between unwashed and solvent washed gum can be used to determine the presence of non-volatile materials. More analytical testing would be necessary to identify the exact material, which could be additive or additive carrier oils.
So today, I pulled my injectors cuz 4 cylinder was sticking so I thought. It was gunked up and it looked like fuel could not get through. The tops of the injectors were clean and no signs of gunk anywhere even in the screen (Bosch 1600cc Top Feeds). I brake cleaned them and it immediately washed the gunk away. I then sprayed from the bottom of the injector with the brake clean straw and it shot out the top with ease. I then turned the injector upside down to see if I saw any deposits. It was all clean. I am going to put them back on my car and see if the miss is present. If not then, it is only the tips that got clogged. I made a video of the injector and will upload tomorrow.

As for e85 standalones, MS can use a flex fuel sensor. I pondered this but I only want corn in my system. If I wanted to do this, I would get a good safe 93 map then use the blending option to increase fuel and spark rather than opposite of reducing fuel and spark to a 93 fuel. I think it would be safer just in case if the sensor were to fail it would go to a 93 maps rather than having 93 in tank on an E85 map. But if the sensor were to fail, either the car would die due to excessive fuel with an E85 base and 93 fuel or run lean with a 93 base and E85 fuel.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by superDorifto » Tue Oct 06, 2015 3:25 pm

adamky wrote:
nissanfanatic wrote:Look like you may be able to just lap them?
I may have been able to get away with that, but the valves had a lot of wobble within the guides and the stems were necked pretty good, so I didn't feel real comfortable just putting it back together as-is. I'll try to remember to take a pic of the stock valve stems so you can see how bad it was. Regardless, I'm having the head rebuilt with all new BC valves, springs, guides.


I tried to take a good picture of how rough the injector bosses are on this Xcessive intake manifold. The only one that looks decent is the last one pictured, closest to the front of the motor. The others have grooves scored into them.

Image
Image
Image
Image


I'm trying to use the stock fuel rail and my 740cc side feeds with it. They include some O-rings for using the stock injectors and rail and the O-rings are supposed to "seat" into the larger "cone" part of the boss. That part of the bosses isn't quite as rough as the holes themselves, but I just don't have a lot of confidence that this alone will provide a good seal. I'm temped to cut up a stock manifold, weld a flange onto it, and just use the plenum from the Xcessive.
WOW...my Chinese copy was just as crappy...getting a good surface finish on aluminum is really hard to do unless you use a rock...

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by supakat » Tue Oct 06, 2015 5:00 pm

And people gave me troubles for using Godspeed. Half the price and same quality unless u get the polished runners.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:15 pm

supakat wrote:Sorry Adam for the hijack but this is relevant stuff. I will try to minimize it.

Here is the seasonal chart. 1 is 85%, 2 is 78%, 3 is 70%.
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/audioen ... 4.jpg.html
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/audioen ... 5.jpg.html

I just read this excerpt. I will need to really research it rather than skimming through.
http://ethanolrfa.3cdn.net/4eea401b7975 ... 6bhv0i.pdf
Solvent Washed Gum/Unwashed Gum: Solvent washed gum can contribute to fuel system deposits. The unwashed gum content is set to limit high boiling point components such as diesel fuel. The difference between unwashed and solvent washed gum can be used to determine the presence of non-volatile materials. More analytical testing would be necessary to identify the exact material, which could be additive or additive carrier oils.
So today, I pulled my injectors cuz 4 cylinder was sticking so I thought. It was gunked up and it looked like fuel could not get through. The tops of the injectors were clean and no signs of gunk anywhere even in the screen (Bosch 1600cc Top Feeds). I brake cleaned them and it immediately washed the gunk away. I then sprayed from the bottom of the injector with the brake clean straw and it shot out the top with ease. I then turned the injector upside down to see if I saw any deposits. It was all clean. I am going to put them back on my car and see if the miss is present. If not then, it is only the tips that got clogged. I made a video of the injector and will upload tomorrow.
Good points, supa. I posted these same pictures and asked on a local forum about E85 gunk and just about everyone that responded said that they had not experienced the issue.

So, your injector tips were gunked up, but the top (inlet/feed side) of the injector was clean? Can you post some pics of the gunk? Way before I decided to run E85, I did some research and that was pretty much the consensus among E85 users... the injector tips were the only thing that showed the gunk. The rest of the fuel system was super clean.

And yeah, the manifold isn't as high quality as I would have expected. I was a machinist apprentice in my early 20's (before I decided to change career paths). I know if I would have run a casting on the CNC mill and the injector bosses came out looking like those, there is no way in hell that QC would have approved it to ship out to a customer. And they would have ripped my a55 for not changing out the reamer a long time ago. And the rest of the manifold isn't that great either. I'm still burning through sanding drums trying to port match the runners and smooth out the roughness.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by supakat » Wed Oct 07, 2015 6:57 am

Correct, top of injectors clean, bottom gunked up. Here is the vid I did. I forgot to take a video after I cleaned them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnaDuEufMEU
Here is the old video in which you commented about the sugar/starch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMsa6YfcfrM

In terms of the manifold, I would have thought that Xcessive would have been better quality with ports and all but it looks like Godpseed tapped into Xcessive's supplier chain. Now that Godspeed doesn't sell them seems like Xcessive made a case. Also, Xcessive may do a little clean up on the manifold compared to Godspeed.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:38 pm

This may not be contributing the E85 "gunk", but on the topic of E85: I was just talking with someone the other day about using E85 in colder temps. They said that to make their cars run better in colder climates (or just winter months in general), they add some 93 to their E85; to the best of my knowledge they also have a "flex-fuel" setup though....hah, I dunno if that info is worth anything or not....if it is though, great! haha.

On a different topic, hows the intake manifold coming along?

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:43 pm

The gas stations actually change their mix for winter, so that shouldn't be necessary. The allowable limits for ethanol fuel to still be labeled as "E85" are actually quite wide. The ethanol content can be as low as 51% and still legally carry the E85 label. Without a flex fuel % gauge to check it yourself, you pretty much just have to talk to the local tuners and racers and see what the consensus is. Luckily, here in Louisville, the ethanol content seems to be on the higher side and there's not a whole lot of variance aside from when they switch to the winter blend. Not that it matters, as I'll be switching back to 93 octane for quite a while.

The plan to have the motor re-honed at a friend-of-a-friend's race shop has hit a snag as he doesn't have a torque plate and doesn't seem like he wants to do it without one. I did some research on here and the general consensus is that with our iron blocks, there isn't as significant of an amount of distortion as you'd see with say, an aluminum SR20 block. So, I think I'm going to try and talk him into doing it without one. If he doesn't want to do it, I may just buy a cylinder hone tool from Summit Racing and do it myself with a cordless drill. I don't have the time or money to delay this any longer.


The intake manifold is coming along. The ports on these things come very rough, as you can see:
Image
Image

Here's from the head side, although I had already started sanding on this one on the right lower side:
Image





Here's where I'm at now. I've got about 98% of the roughness and ridges smoothed out. Need to do just a bit more and then switch to higher grit sanding tubes and smooth it out.
Image
Image
Image
Image




I also worked on fitting the stock fuel rail. I had to make my own standoffs as the aluminum ones that came with the manifold were too short. I got the injector o-rings seated decently, but they seat closer at the bottom than they do at the top:
Image
Image
Image




So, I decided to mod the fuel rail mounts by welding some steel standoffs/spacers to the fuel rail itself. By doing this, I was able to angle the rail down just a hair at the top. This got the o-rings seated much flatter and I think it's going to work very well.
I would post some pictures but the fuel rail is currently being de-rusted via electrolysis. As you can see in the above pics, there was rust on the outside of the fuel rail and there was even some inside the fuel rail tubes. After scratching my head trying to figure out how to get a brush down in there to remove it, I stumbled across the electrolysis method and it is working fantastic at removing the rust.

Here are a couple pics from when I first started the process, and then what the tank looked like after sitting overnight. The rust is actually removing itself and putting itself onto the spare brake rotor. It's crazy to see this in action. Wish I would have known this trick years ago.
Image
Image

Once it's done de-rusting, I'm going to use electrolysis again to electroplate the whole thing with zinc. After that, I'll probably be electroplating a lot of other parts, like all of my engine bolts.





I also had to stop on intake work to do a few small things: replaced the driver's side door hinges, remove the rusty driver's side fender, and remove my rear side window so I can reseal it. The top wasn't sealed at all and it's been this way for a while. I could push on it from the inside and see through the gap. I was real careful and luckily, I didn't crack it.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Mon Oct 19, 2015 12:55 am

Almost forgot, I stopped by the machine shop last week and asked them to just replace the valve guides with the BC guides and seat the new BC valves with a 3 angle valve job. I'm going to do the shimming and re-assembly myself. This will save me some money and save them some time, and besides... I just like doing stuff like this myself. KA heads are ridiculously simple as far as heads go.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by supakat » Mon Oct 19, 2015 8:44 am

Nice trick on de rusting. Keep up the progress.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Wed Nov 04, 2015 7:54 pm

I went in half with a buddy on a nice Zinc plating setup from Caswell plating. It's their Copy Cad/Zinc plating kit: http://www.caswellplating.com/electropl ... -kits.html. Hoping to re-plate the stock fuel rail and a bunch of other nuts and bolts over the next month or so.

My buddy has tried and tried to get his friend to re-hone my block, but he's a busy dude and I just can't wait any longer. So, the block is now at the machine shop along with the head. He's going to re-hone it and try to get everything back to me by the end of the week.

I tried to install my Xcessive brake master heat shield yesterday: http://xcessivemanufacturing.com/index. ... mb-hs.html. It wouldn't go on because the brake lines are on the way. So, rather than bend the lines to an even more extreme angle, I'm thinking about converting to banjo bolts and maybe even running new lines since the motor is out anyways. Pretty much just like Daigle did: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=38784&p=522283#p522283
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Mon Nov 09, 2015 1:05 pm

.
Nice work on smoothing out the intake runners. I heard these manifolds were cast a little rough, but geez, from the pics, it looked like a tiny metal mountain range in those runners. fuel rail stands look like they came out great too.

That electrolysis stuff is really cool! I've been looking into the plating application just recently; both DIY and Caswell's kits. I originally thought plating was super complicated with chemicals, but some people do it with batteries, vinegar, baking soda and pickle juice, hah. That non-electric plating kit from Caswell looks pretty cool too; although it does require heating chemicals to a boil:
http://www.caswellplating.com/electropl ... -pint.html

What size kit did you end up getting?

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Mon Nov 09, 2015 10:47 pm

Thanks! It was a lot of work to get the runners smoothed out. I'm glad that I invested in a proper respirator and goggles before I started all of this work, because I spent hours in a cloud of aluminum dust! It would be nice if there was a way to know what kind of difference it made, power-wise. I guess I'll never know, but it has to help a decent amount.

The electrolysis stuff is very cool indeed. My buddy is an old school domestic car guy, and he was just as amazed as I was that we had never heard of removing rust with it. It works surprisingly well.

About the plating kit... we were planning on getting their smallest kit, the 1.5 gallon, which goes for $179. While on their site one night, I checked their "Deal of the day", and it just happened to be the 1.5 gallon kit, which was on sale for $119... I couldn't get my order placed quick enough! And since I would like to do some larger items such as engine mounts, OEM fuel rail, etc., I decided to use the $60 that I had saved, and buy a 1.5 gallon refill kit. I also had a 10% off coupon that they send you if you sign up for their newsletter. So, we basically have a 3 gallon kit for less than the price of the 1.5 kit. Very happy with how it all worked out. I also ordered yellow chromate to give it that golden iridescent look, although the black chromate is something that I'd like to try in the future.

The other big part of the Copy Cad kits is the power supply. For doing very small items, like a few bolts here and there, you don't need much power, so you can use automotive battery chargers or other low power/current DC power supplies. If you want to do any larger items, you need more current. To make sure we had plenty of power for larger items, we ordered a Volteq DC Rectifier with a 0-15V and 0-20A adjustable output: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBS ... ge_o02_s00.

The only other things that you really need are some way to heat your de-greasing tank to 190*F, and a way to heat the electroplating tank itself to 110*F. I snagged a crock pot from my mother for the de-greasing tank, and we're still working out the setup to heat the plating tank. I'm hoping to have everything up and running with the next week or two.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:32 pm

I also decided to rebuild my diff/pumpkin (S15 helical) last week after realizing that there was excessive backlash between the pinion and ring gear. There was also some weird binding going on with the pinion. I could spin it one way and when I spun it the other way, it would kind of lock up. I pressed out the pinion and came to realize that when I had switched from my 4.6 gear set back to the stock 4.08 several years ago, I must have mixed up some shims, or just simply chose the wrong ones. After swapping shims around a few times, which required removing and reinstalling the pinion shaft each time, I finally found the right combo and got it spinning smoothly with none of the binding that it was doing before. I also had my side bearing shims for the differential unit itself mixed up (the two thinner ones). I swapped those and after re-assembling, the excessive backlash is gone and it spins as smooth as butter. I wish I would have taken some pictures or videos of all of this, but I didn't.

I'm almost embarrassed to admit it, but when I first noticed the excessive backlash, I almost took it to a local trans shop. I'm glad that I decided to tackle it myself instead. I absolutely hate letting anyone else work on my car if it's something that I can do myself.


In other news, the block and head are back from the machine shop. Everything looks good.
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With the dual valve springs and my JWT S1 cams, I'm now wishing that I had an ATI damper so I could safely spin this thing to 8K rpm. I just can't justify spending another $500 right now though. Buying the plating kit was pushing it as it is.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Tue Nov 10, 2015 4:22 pm

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Wow, you guys got a great deal on all that stuff! I almost ordered a kit last night, then saw their zinc kits recommended a tank heater, which was an extra 200 from the company they suggested (for a simple "hang over the side of a bucket" style heater. :icon-eek:
A crock pot is a good solution though since it can hold a set temp.

Are you sure this is a voltage regulator?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBS ... ge_o02_s00.
.... I'm so immature. :mrgreen:

Called a somewhat local plating shop today and asked the guy how much plating would be. The guy said the standard minimum charge is 80 (for cleaning, prepping, zinc plating and chromating; min charge was so high because they are mainly commercial). Then if it is a "31" or above on harness scale (forget scale name, started with R I think and I believe most grade 8 and above bolts fit into this category) they would have to subject hardware to a baking process (+50) to relieve trapped hydrogen from plating to prevent "hydrogen enbrittlement". So the price for that kit seems great, considering one could probably plate a whole lot more per dollar, in addition to the convenience.

The bock and head are looking awesome! From reading through the updates, seems like you've been really busy. Maybe I missed it, but did they end up using a torque plate for the honing then?
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:18 pm

Lol, boobs.

For the plating tank we have decided on a temperature controller (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXP ... ge_o00_s00) and a 1500W 120V heating element from Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-150 ... /204834407). Including the project box to mount the controller in (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002B ... ge_o00_s00), the whole setup will be under $40. A lot of people use those temperature controllers for home brewing and they get good reviews.
cleantune wrote:Called a somewhat local plating shop today and asked the guy how much plating would be. The guy said the standard minimum charge is 80 (for cleaning, prepping, zinc plating and chromating; min charge was so high because they are mainly commercial). Then if it is a "31" or above on harness scale (forget scale name, started with R I think and I believe most grade 8 and above bolts fit into this category) they would have to subject hardware to a baking process (+50) to relieve trapped hydrogen from plating to prevent "hydrogen enbrittlement". So the price for that kit seems great, considering one could probably plate a whole lot more per dollar, in addition to the convenience.
That's interesting. I never called any plating shops to check prices. I'm just a hard core DIYer and I knew that I wanted a home plating kit. The other benefit to home plating is that you can plate just a few things at a time as you go along.


I spoke to the machinist about the torque plate and he said that on these particular blocks, they don't use one because it just isn't necessary.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Nov 12, 2015 1:02 am

I recently found out that Nistune actually can control 2000cc injectors. So, I'm thinking about going back to my original plan of installing the new fuel setup with my ID2000's. I've played around with the AEM software and just don't feel comfortable with it like I do Nistune. This means that I will still be using a MAF, but I'm okay with that for now. The Z32 MAF should get me to 450 or so whp before I max it out.

Also, I snagged a used Turbo Smart E-boost on ebay for a really good deal. Since I won't be using the AEM EMS to control boost (for now), I needed a EBC. This should do it. And since I've actually got a 2nd solenoid that I had planned to use with the AEM, I'm probably going to do a twin solenoid push-and-pull setup for the wastegate. Like shown here:
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The benefit to using twin solenoids (with a twin port wastegate, of course) is better control of boost, and the ability to run a really soft spring like 5 psi, but still have the ability to run more than 2x the wastegate spring (20-30 psi). Here's another pic that I snagged off of Perrin's site:
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And here's a shot of me beginning to install my time serts using the kit I bought from from BoBaCk1. And yes, it scared the crap out of me to take a hand drill to my block. I've done about half of them and so far, so good. I actually talked to my machinist about my plan to use the time sert kit and I was surprised that after inspecting the kit and time serts, he gave it his stamp of approval.
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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by cleantune » Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:38 am

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...hand drill... block :icon-eek:.
I'd be too scared, hah, I'm just going to pretend that you said drill press at the machine shop :mrgreen: .

Is this that mucho expensivo kit that you and someone else were talking about on another thread? How does this work again? That square plate gets torqued down, then that piece under the drill bit in the picture is a "guide" to keep everything straight during drilling and tapping?

That dual electronic boost controller idea is awesome! Yeah you can definitely tell from the graph you posted that the boost is much more consistent with less pronounced spikes in pressure. Is increase in boost on that graph is a visual description of the dual EBC system surpassing the wastegate spring then?
I wonder if this would help spool time too.

I'm unfamiliar with Nistune, does it only work with a MAF?

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Re: Adam's formerly supercharged... now soon-to-be-turbo'd,

Post by adamky » Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:39 pm

cleantune wrote:.
...hand drill... block :icon-eek:.
I'd be too scared, hah, I'm just going to pretend that you said drill press at the machine shop :mrgreen: .

Is this that mucho expensivo kit that you and someone else were talking about on another thread? How does this work again? That square plate gets torqued down, then that piece under the drill bit in the picture is a "guide" to keep everything straight during drilling and tapping?
It is scary. And yes, this is the $430 kit: http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/he ... p-213.html. The guide is what is supposed to keep everything straight.
cleantune wrote:Is increase in boost on that graph is a visual description of the dual EBC system surpassing the wastegate spring then?
I believe so.
cleantune wrote:I wonder if this would help spool time too.
It definitely has the potential to help, depending on the setup. Wastegate spring have a "cracking pressure" where they start to open, which is typicall about half of the spring pressure. If you could hold the wastegate closed with boost, it should reduce spool time.
cleantune wrote:I'm unfamiliar with Nistune, does it only work with a MAF?
It does. I'll be using a Z32 MAF in an aluminum housing in a blow-through setup. If I decided to stay with Nistune, there are options that would get me to 840 hp. This would be accomplished by using a different MAF sensor mounted in a 4" tube. But, I imagine I'll still switch to stand alone EMS eventually and convert to MAP.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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