Becharco's 300hp s13 build

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Becharco
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Becharco's 300hp s13 build

Post by Becharco »

What you are about to witness is a n00b attempting to turbo an s13... there's probably going to be some dumb posts so i would appreciate constructive criticism.(trolls stay quiet) there's going to be LOTS of questions, so hold on to your hats lol

Hello, So, yeah. My name is Cody and i live in southern Ontario, about 40 mins from the Windsor/Detroit border.

This is my car, before i had bought it. drove about 2 hours to get it. There it was. the kid had obviously kicked the **** out of it then parked it. so i loaded it up on a uhaul and took it home.
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I talked the kid down to $250. i figured, if i buy it and get it home and its junk, ill take it to the scrap yard.
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sitting in the driveway. I had no job and had to borrow money from a friend to buy it.

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First thing i started on was the power steering

Then the frame.. and the floor. and took it for safety. i had to put all new breaks on it.. Calipers, rotors, pads (CPR) while doing the fronts i broke some bolts that hold the caliper onto the spindle, so i had to save them, then i put new lower control arms and ball joints on, tie rod ends and links. and got to driving it.
Image bought some rims, mainly for the tires, to pass safety.
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fixed the hatch
after driving it for 3 months i starting having fuel pressure issues. being frustrated i bought a new car.
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and the car sat. and sat. for probably 6 months until i got laid off... i went to a drag/drift event that CSCS was putting on in grand bend ontario, and it changed everything for me. seeing all those nice s13s, talking to all the owners. they never gave up on their cars.. so neither should i. i got home and cleaned out some space in the garage and parked it in there and started tearing it down.
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And this brings us to today. progress is slow as its been 110 in my garage and im too afraid of sweat (lol) im going to fix the chassis first, wile i stock pile parts. im taking out the air conditioning and need to refab a rad support.
and so.. this brings us to my first question lol i aiming for 300hp. ive read up alot on what turbos will work and it still isnt clicking in my brain. will this turbo be sufficient for my motor? http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles ... Z395665698 and thats a REAL master power turbo. (dude says its made in Brazil). no ebay junk here. i made him an offer, minus the injectors since there too small.
Last edited by Becharco on Fri Sep 07, 2012 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Becharco
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Post by Becharco »

Anyone know if that turbo will work? don't want to miss out on it!
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Walperstyle
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Post by Walperstyle »

.48 is a little small, but power comes more from proper tune then it does 'bolt on parts'.

This is how I figured out turbo information:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AasEZE3IK_w&feature=plcp
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Post by Becharco »

Well for $400 (plus shipping) he said i could have it (minus the injectors)
EDIT: i found 2 programs (ray hall turbocharging and Garrett boost adviser) the Ray Hall is recommending the Garrett GT25 and Garrett is recommending a whole whack of different turbos: GT2589R, GT2252, GT2860R, GT2871R, GT2860RS,GT2871R,GT3071R. so, it looks like ive got some reading to do. chime in on what experiences you've had with any of those turbos, and recommendations. i wasn't 100% sure on the info i put in, i put 12 pounds boost, max rpm at 6500? and mid at 3250? but i noticed that the KA24DE makes max hp around 5500. but ill leave a link for these boost adviser things here, for future reference.
Garrett: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/webadviser
Ray Hall: http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html < from 2003 so maybe thats why the recommendations are different
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Becharco
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Post by Becharco »

I think ive decided to go with the GT2860R (Part# 707160-5) Which is a direct replacement for the RB26DETT.

Compressor Specs
-0.60 A/R compressor housing 2.08" 2-bolt inlet 1.5" 2-bolt outlet
-62-trim compressor wheel 1.85/2.36 47.2mm inducer

Turbine Specs
-0.64 A/R turbine housing with T25 inlet and compact 5-bolt outlet. This housing is NOT interchangeable with traditional T25 5-bolt outlets
-53.9mm 76-trim GT28 Inconel turbine wheel
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Post by Becharco »

anyone ever tried these "precision" turbos? i've never heard of them but from what im reading they're a pretty good entry level turbo....

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/pr ... rger+375HP
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Post by schmauster920 »

You should look at other peoples builds on the site, they are very common
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Post by Super Coupe »

schmauster920 wrote:You should look at other peoples builds on the site, they are very common
Agreed.

Here is one of the higher hp applications.
viewtopic.php?t=56925&highlight=


Do some searching around on the site. You should find what you are looking for. If not post a thread in a TECH section. You will get more responses.
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Post by airman »

I think that turbo might be a little bit on the small side but it should get you near 300hp (but I'm not sure about much more). But it should be a good match if you want a fast spool setup.

And yeah, Precision is a high-end turbo manufacturer amongst only a few others. They have been getting quite popular even here on KA-T.org.
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Post by schmauster920 »

You should at least go for a T3.. a 50 or 60 trim t3 would allow you to run lower boost and hit your goals, but it would be a little laggy. It should last though. You will probably want more power later, you can crank the boost up or get a bigger turbo.

If you want no lag, and 300hp, the disco potato is a good option, but still no room to upgrade on a T2.

Reading compressor maps is a pain, but would be very very helpful if you want to learn. Check it out on youtube or google.


An important question that hasnt been asked is what are your goals with the car? You said 300hp. But you will probably want more later. If you get a smaller turbo, you will be maxing it out to get your 300hp, and i recently found out turbos dont last long if you run them too hard.

Every turbo likes being ran in a certian PSI range, go below that you could get surge and other drivability issues (havent experienced) If you run them too high, they will put out excess heat, and not give much or any HP gain. My turbo was old and tired, and didnt like 16psi for a few weeks after being driven on 8-10 for years.
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Post by emo_tactical9 »

No room to upgrade from a Disco Potato? :roll:

If you really only want to do around 300whp (believe it or not, some of us do) then get a T2 series turbo. There are guys on here running better ETs in the quarter with a T2 than some guys with larger turbos. Driving is obviously to blame, but a T2 car is a hell of a lot of fun.
Either way, it is your choice. I am quite happy with my T28. There are many options for upgrading. Hell, you can even get a GT3071 with a T2 flange.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Dont know my turbos that well, I thought it was one of the largest / bb turbos for a t2 mani.

With a T3 you'd have cheaper options, stock turbos, used turbos, etc. The T2 option in the size range you want wouldnt be bad if you want to keep 300hp and get a store bought turbo. Its all about what you want / what you want to pay for.

I wasnt aware many people have the self control to stay at 300hp.

Just trying to help, i dont claim to be 'encyclopedia nissan' lol I do like to suggest some growing room since a lot of people dont think much about it.
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Post by Becharco »

Thanks for all the help guys, I found a kit on ebay from CXracing..(http://www.ebay.com/itm/180691433978?it ... 23&vxp=mtr)
except that turbo looks sketchy as f*ck. so I emailed them and asked if they would sell me a kit without the turbo. sure they will... for the same price. so i think im gunna get there kit, sell the junk turbo they include and buy that precision turbo.. just trying to find some dimensions on the flanges to make sure they will bolt up the same :D again, i appreciate the help, way better than any other forum im a member on
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Post by Becharco »

Well, I've been productive. Got the rest of the A/C and emissions parts out of the engine bay, cut the old rad support out.
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Not much left of the rad support... :shock:
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tore down the motor
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Looking to get it hot tanked next week!
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Post by street_240sx »

wow that support looks bad. id remove that top timing chain guide
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Post by schmauster920 »

Motor looks insanely clean inside!


Holy rust batman

Remove that top timing chain guide like street240sx said, even nissan says. It can make a lot of noise.
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Post by 500hpKA240sx »

why tear down that truly unmolested motor. its super clean and stock setup wll hold 300hp all day..
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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Post by Becharco »

500hpKA240sx wrote:why tear down that truly unmolested motor. its super clean and stock setup wll hold 300hp all day..
Becauuuuuse it was leaking oil all over the place. and passing it through my exhaust... Im just cleaning it up outside, painting it, and putting in new gaskets. that's all. no need to worry :) EDIT: I'd also like to teach myself a few things
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Post by 500hpKA240sx »

All I read was fuel pressure problems not oil.....i was just curious
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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Post by Becharco »

This boy got a job, 6:30pm to 4:30am, 7 days a week for a month or so. Time to make some money and get this bi*ch sideways!!
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Post by schmauster920 »

If it was smoking out the exhaust you most likely need new valve guides and valve seals, its not too expensive


This will generally make it smoke a little on startup, and if it gets worse, might smoke at idle and low rpm
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Post by Becharco »

It would run great when cold, but once it warmed up, if i smacked the throttle it would dip real low in the RPM or stall. then if i revved it at a steady rpm it would just start pouring out blue smoke.
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Post by Becharco »

Should i get new rings? guy that hot tanked my motor said thats probably what was causing it to smoke.
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Post by schmauster920 »

while its apart, at the minimum get it honed and install new rings
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Post by Becharco »

Motor is finally home! Hot tanked, new frost plugs, honed, head got machined, cleaned, new seals, pistons got cleaned, new rings. The oil rings on the pistons were seized, answered my question of why it was smoking. Just waiting on a ring compressor and bearings and it will be going back together.
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Also fabricated and welded in a new lower rad support.

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Post by KA-Life86 »

Much better! And I love the orange haha, Ive been contemplating what color to paint my block when it out over the winter.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Is that picture partially sandblasted? Looks really nice!

I went black with my block, it really doesnt stand out

You should put new valve seals / guides in your head if you havent already. Bad valve guides can lead to valve seals not sealing.

The exhaust valve guides are usually worn out it seems.. if original, the valve seals might be leaking a little too... doesnt mean the oil was only coming from once place.
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Post by Becharco »

I had the guy that cleaned my head put valve guide seals in it. I went with orange because id like to be able to keep an eye on how clean the block is, it will make oil stand out more. the block was hot tanked but he said it was still pretty rough when he took it out so he did sand blast it a bit. Its all about rebuild now. Ive hit a bit of a rough patch money wise so the project will be slow for awhile (not like it can get any slower now)
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Ive got this addiction to stickers....

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Post by schmauster920 »

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Post by Becharco »

schmauster920 wrote:Image
Bahaha good thing i hate cats :P in the middle of putting the motor together, going together like a dream, except i didnt mark TDC or anything on the cams and timing chain.. oops lol i guess i was too excited (searching through the FSM)
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