Tax Dollars at work--Running with vid!!!
- AFKOUKI
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Tax Dollars at work--Running with vid!!!
So... I finally get to start a build thread so I'll get right down to it. I've got a 98 240, and I didn't have the compression numbers for boost. I have between 125-130 on all 4. Uses 0 oil and feels strong though.
So I saved and Picked up a 95 KA, in all of its oily goodness. The plan is simple. A Stock rebuild and 8psi. Progress will be slow due to me being stationed in FL and the motor at my parents house in the great state of GA.
So, here is the boost candidate. Got her from someone on base with 144k on the clock.
When I got her...
And Today
J30 dif, a few suspension arms, and super clean. Over the past year and a half I've done a few things
New transmission
CC Stage 2 White Bunny Clutch
1 Piece driveshaft
Removed solid Subframe bushings--way too noisy
Kouki Skirts
350z wheels
thats about it... but she has taught me alot to this point. Ive never done anything like this before, so there will be a huge learning curve. If you have any advice, I'd be more than willing to listen.
So far I have
Precision t3/t4 turbo
JGS manifold
SR downpipe
z32 MAF
ARP headstuds
bung for oil pan, and a few other small things. I still need to get injectors, intercooler, wg, bov, wideband, boost and oil pressure gauge, blah blah blah. I'll be giving Martin at enthalpy for my tuning with some 550cc's. So this weekend I was able to go home and tear into it. Since i'm such a noob, I'm going to have the maching shop take care of the whole shortblock for me.
This point of teardown has been suprisingly easy (knock on wood). here are some pics
The dirty lady...
Intake manifold off
cams out
I was told it had s13 cams, anyone know how to tell the difference?
Head off
Cylinder walls seem pretty good. Lots of carbon build-up on the pistons though
And you can't forget your zip-loc bags
And a tip for the other new folks out there... don't turn the head upside down....
But thats it for now. I'm gonna take my bucket of parts back home and clean everything up as much as I can. Ill be able to make another trip home in 2 weeks, and hopefully I'll be able to get the block to the machine shop then.
So I saved and Picked up a 95 KA, in all of its oily goodness. The plan is simple. A Stock rebuild and 8psi. Progress will be slow due to me being stationed in FL and the motor at my parents house in the great state of GA.
So, here is the boost candidate. Got her from someone on base with 144k on the clock.
When I got her...
And Today
J30 dif, a few suspension arms, and super clean. Over the past year and a half I've done a few things
New transmission
CC Stage 2 White Bunny Clutch
1 Piece driveshaft
Removed solid Subframe bushings--way too noisy
Kouki Skirts
350z wheels
thats about it... but she has taught me alot to this point. Ive never done anything like this before, so there will be a huge learning curve. If you have any advice, I'd be more than willing to listen.
So far I have
Precision t3/t4 turbo
JGS manifold
SR downpipe
z32 MAF
ARP headstuds
bung for oil pan, and a few other small things. I still need to get injectors, intercooler, wg, bov, wideband, boost and oil pressure gauge, blah blah blah. I'll be giving Martin at enthalpy for my tuning with some 550cc's. So this weekend I was able to go home and tear into it. Since i'm such a noob, I'm going to have the maching shop take care of the whole shortblock for me.
This point of teardown has been suprisingly easy (knock on wood). here are some pics
The dirty lady...
Intake manifold off
cams out
I was told it had s13 cams, anyone know how to tell the difference?
Head off
Cylinder walls seem pretty good. Lots of carbon build-up on the pistons though
And you can't forget your zip-loc bags
And a tip for the other new folks out there... don't turn the head upside down....
But thats it for now. I'm gonna take my bucket of parts back home and clean everything up as much as I can. Ill be able to make another trip home in 2 weeks, and hopefully I'll be able to get the block to the machine shop then.
Last edited by AFKOUKI on Wed Apr 30, 2014 12:37 pm, edited 7 times in total.
- 500hpKA240sx
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just my 2 cents.
-go forged bottom end.
-get a longer bolt for your idler sprocket b/c 9/10 times it will strip out and then heli coiling it is a pain.
-your cam caps HAVE to go with that head so DO NOT LOSE THEM. (I lost a 500 dollar head that way)
-i seen that you put your valve spring buckets all in one place and not marked. also the wafers that are on top are all different sizes and should have been marked to its original spot. its not a big deal but your motor will be very noisy if there not put back right. those spacers are suppose to be touching the bottom of the cam lobe so the lobe "pushes" the valve down not "slap" it down. being a DOHC it doesnt have hydraulic lifters like a single cam does. that being said it wont correct its self.
besides that GL with build cant wait too see updates
-go forged bottom end.
-get a longer bolt for your idler sprocket b/c 9/10 times it will strip out and then heli coiling it is a pain.
-your cam caps HAVE to go with that head so DO NOT LOSE THEM. (I lost a 500 dollar head that way)
-i seen that you put your valve spring buckets all in one place and not marked. also the wafers that are on top are all different sizes and should have been marked to its original spot. its not a big deal but your motor will be very noisy if there not put back right. those spacers are suppose to be touching the bottom of the cam lobe so the lobe "pushes" the valve down not "slap" it down. being a DOHC it doesnt have hydraulic lifters like a single cam does. that being said it wont correct its self.
besides that GL with build cant wait too see updates
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- AFKOUKI
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Thanks for the input. As for the valve spring buckets, I didn't mean to dump them all out on the floor lol. I turned the head over to look at it not knowing that they wouild fall out. To make it right, would I just have to check the clearances with the cam lobe when re-installing?500hpKA240sx wrote:just my 2 cents.
-go forged bottom end.
-get a longer bolt for your idler sprocket b/c 9/10 times it will strip out and then heli coiling it is a pain.
-your cam caps HAVE to go with that head so DO NOT LOSE THEM. (I lost a 500 dollar head that way)
-i seen that you put your valve spring buckets all in one place and not marked. also the wafers that are on top are all different sizes and should have been marked to its original spot. its not a big deal but your motor will be very noisy if there not put back right. those spacers are suppose to be touching the bottom of the cam lobe so the lobe "pushes" the valve down not "slap" it down. being a DOHC it doesnt have hydraulic lifters like a single cam does. that being said it wont correct its self.
besides that GL with build cant wait too see updates
As for going with a forged bottom end, I'm really only wanting 250ish whp...but still going back and forth with it. Its just hard to justify $500 pistons when I won't really need them.
And can you go into more detail about the idler sprocket bolt for me? Thanks
- beercandrifter
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he had back luck with his idler pulley bolt? never had issues with the stock ones here
you can measure the shims for clearance when you put the buckets/shims back on the head with the camshafts. just move them around until you get the spacing about equal (good time to check to see if they are within spec). i have swapped the buckets on heads before, but i could see where others have issues, they dont always fit on other valves
and for what its worth, number them before flipping the head next time =)
you can measure the shims for clearance when you put the buckets/shims back on the head with the camshafts. just move them around until you get the spacing about equal (good time to check to see if they are within spec). i have swapped the buckets on heads before, but i could see where others have issues, they dont always fit on other valves
and for what its worth, number them before flipping the head next time =)
91 240sx Hatch: HomeBrwd
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
- 500hpKA240sx
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if you look at the idler sprocket threads in the head itself you will see a lot but from the factory the bolt is just long enough to catch about 5 threads or so and when reinstalling them its just tedious thats all. not everyone has problems but i have seen enough ppl have problems with them stripping out that i just wont chance it.AFKOUKI wrote:And can you go into more detail about the idler sprocket bolt for me? Thanks
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
I definitely agree with the idler bolt in the head. It's a 12x1.25mm bolt (fine thread) that engages only about 6-8mm of thread but has an FSM torque spec of up to like 60ft-lbs.
I stripped mine and the longer bolt had the same thing happen - so I had to helicoil it (the M12 x 1.25 kit is not cheap btw).
Clean Kouki man. If you can promise that you won't want more than 250hp after going through all of this, then I'd say do a stock rebuild. BUT, if you're like 99% of us, you might end up wanting more and more and you will kick yourself for not putting the extra $1000 and ~2 weeks into having a fully built motor which will handle whatever you want to throw at it later on when you get froggy.
I stripped mine and the longer bolt had the same thing happen - so I had to helicoil it (the M12 x 1.25 kit is not cheap btw).
Clean Kouki man. If you can promise that you won't want more than 250hp after going through all of this, then I'd say do a stock rebuild. BUT, if you're like 99% of us, you might end up wanting more and more and you will kick yourself for not putting the extra $1000 and ~2 weeks into having a fully built motor which will handle whatever you want to throw at it later on when you get froggy.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
- AFKOUKI
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Tghanks for the compliments. Ill try to get some more pics of the car up to whore her out a bit.airman wrote:I definitely agree with the idler bolt in the head. It's a 12x1.25mm bolt (fine thread) that engages only about 6-8mm of thread but has an FSM torque spec of up to like 60ft-lbs.
I stripped mine and the longer bolt had the same thing happen - so I had to helicoil it (the M12 x 1.25 kit is not cheap btw).
Clean Kouki man. If you can promise that you won't want more than 250hp after going through all of this, then I'd say do a stock rebuild. BUT, if you're like 99% of us, you might end up wanting more and more and you will kick yourself for not putting the extra $1000 and ~2 weeks into having a fully built motor which will handle whatever you want to throw at it later on when you get froggy.
As far as the block goes I think Im gonna stay stock with the first one. I've never owned a turbo car before and this is my daily driver. If I want more after that I'll build my other motor and go crazy with it. For now, I think I'll be more than satisfied with 250whp
- 500hpKA240sx
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alright an we are just trying to look out for ya make sure you run a really good tune and for what ever reason why these guys have boost spikes for hope it doesnt happen or your ringlands will say ***** it.
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- AFKOUKI
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Alright, I'll give in. Next paycheck I'll be looking at getting pistons. Stock rods are good to ~400hp correct?
Or am I gonna get flamed if I dont get those too lol. Gonna put me back about 2 months with sending the block to the machine shop though
But do it right and I'll only have to do it once I guess.
Or am I gonna get flamed if I dont get those too lol. Gonna put me back about 2 months with sending the block to the machine shop though
But do it right and I'll only have to do it once I guess.
- 500hpKA240sx
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Do it right or do it twice. You don't need a 1000 dollar piston set up..for 800 bucks you can have eagle rods and wisco pistons and you can't go wrong with either brand. But the stock bottom end is good up to about 350-400 hp but that's with a really good tune. Tuning is everything when your boosting
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- 500hpKA240sx
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Np and what brand wide band did you get?
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- AFKOUKI
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Valve cover
After a good pressure washing. I know its not the best way to clean things up but it worked. It was raining on and off while I was painting, and about 1000% humidity out. Guess thats what I get for living in florida.
Here's what I decided to try out.
I also used a rattle can clear
And I got this
Painted the upper timing cover as well
Ill be home for the long weekend, hopefully I can Finish getting the motor apart
After a good pressure washing. I know its not the best way to clean things up but it worked. It was raining on and off while I was painting, and about 1000% humidity out. Guess thats what I get for living in florida.
Here's what I decided to try out.
I also used a rattle can clear
And I got this
Painted the upper timing cover as well
Ill be home for the long weekend, hopefully I can Finish getting the motor apart
- 500hpKA240sx
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Edit: phone messed up
Last edited by 500hpKA240sx on Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- 500hpKA240sx
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Looks good remember when you spray your clear coat spray it wet the way it looks wet is how it will look dry
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Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
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I disagree with that... the FSM states you're supposed to have 0.013-0.016" clearance between the shim and the cam lobe. This is different from S13 to S14 and also different if you go with aftermarket cams.500hpKA240sx wrote:just my 2 cents.
-i seen that you put your valve spring buckets all in one place and not marked. also the wafers that are on top are all different sizes and should have been marked to its original spot. its not a big deal but your motor will be very noisy if there not put back right. those spacers are suppose to be touching the bottom of the cam lobe so the lobe "pushes" the valve down not "slap" it down. being a DOHC it doesnt have hydraulic lifters like a single cam does. that being said it wont correct its self.
viewtopic.php?t=41963&highlight=valve+clearance
2012 - S14 KA, Nismotronic, GTi-R T28 12psi, Meth, PSM HMIC, DW550cc, N62, S15 HLSD, Spec 3, Fidanza = 12.4 @ 110
2013 - 9.0 Wiseco/Manley, Nismotronic, GT2876R 23psi, Meth, PSM HMIC, 850cc, N62, S15 HLSD, Z32 Spec 3, D21 Fidanza = ??.? @ ??? 440whp/380wtq
YouTube Channel -> http://goo.gl/MZ5EE
- 500hpKA240sx
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Not touching as metal to metal but close as possible so it doesn't slap the valve down at high rpms it will bend them and doesn't let them shut as smoothly...so I was told by my machinistsjholman05 wrote:I disagree with that... the FSM states you're supposed to have 0.013-0.016" clearance between the shim and the cam lobe. This is different from S13 to S14 and also different if you go with aftermarket cams.500hpKA240sx wrote:just my 2 cents.
-i seen that you put your valve spring buckets all in one place and not marked. also the wafers that are on top are all different sizes and should have been marked to its original spot. its not a big deal but your motor will be very noisy if there not put back right. those spacers are suppose to be touching the bottom of the cam lobe so the lobe "pushes" the valve down not "slap" it down. being a DOHC it doesnt have hydraulic lifters like a single cam does. that being said it wont correct its self.
viewtopic.php?t=41963&highlight=valve+clearance
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- AFKOUKI
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Got some work done last night!!! Wasn't planning on doing this myself but once I took the oil pan off I figured it wasn't too tough to tackel. I apologize in advance for the horrible cellphone pics taken at midnight in a poorly lit garage, but you'll get the idea.
Pulled off the oil pickup and the crank girdle. Then took off the ends of the rods (name? lol) and pushed the piston and rod through the cylinder with an upside down screwdriver and a hammer. I did this all with the crank in. I'm sure it snot the best method, but I didnt have the puller to get the crank pulley off and I wanted to get some work done. Here is how i tapped them out, striking the blade screwdriver making sure not to nic the crank or cylinder walls...
Here are all four piston and rods, nothing y'all havent seen before but the first time I've had my hands on a set of pistons. I have been suprised how easily everything has come apart. I'm sure it will be more difficult to put it all back together...
Here's the mess I made doing all this. Oil everywhere in my little corner of the garage.
All cleaned up for the next time I get to come home and work on her. Im thinking late september I'll be back and have it 100% apart ten. Shouldn't take long at all. I just moved out of the dorms on base, so the funds are at $0 right noe and i gotta buy some furniture. I cant wait to have it at the machine shop though.
Pulled off the oil pickup and the crank girdle. Then took off the ends of the rods (name? lol) and pushed the piston and rod through the cylinder with an upside down screwdriver and a hammer. I did this all with the crank in. I'm sure it snot the best method, but I didnt have the puller to get the crank pulley off and I wanted to get some work done. Here is how i tapped them out, striking the blade screwdriver making sure not to nic the crank or cylinder walls...
Here are all four piston and rods, nothing y'all havent seen before but the first time I've had my hands on a set of pistons. I have been suprised how easily everything has come apart. I'm sure it will be more difficult to put it all back together...
Here's the mess I made doing all this. Oil everywhere in my little corner of the garage.
All cleaned up for the next time I get to come home and work on her. Im thinking late september I'll be back and have it 100% apart ten. Shouldn't take long at all. I just moved out of the dorms on base, so the funds are at $0 right noe and i gotta buy some furniture. I cant wait to have it at the machine shop though.
- AFKOUKI
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Might be replacing my transmission in the near future :/ Its getting pretty damn frustrating.
But in other news...I'm going home on leave on 31 December and taking the block to the machine shop. They say they'll be pretty dead that time of year so they are going to try and carnk it out in a week. Finally some progress, I'm started to get excited about boost again! Also, almost have enough $$ for pistons and the machine work. But I'm not sure if I should wait on pistons. I want to get them ordered and have them to take to the shop, but at the same time I dont want to find out that the block needs to be bored out and be stuck with the wrong size pistons. What do yall think?
But in other news...I'm going home on leave on 31 December and taking the block to the machine shop. They say they'll be pretty dead that time of year so they are going to try and carnk it out in a week. Finally some progress, I'm started to get excited about boost again! Also, almost have enough $$ for pistons and the machine work. But I'm not sure if I should wait on pistons. I want to get them ordered and have them to take to the shop, but at the same time I dont want to find out that the block needs to be bored out and be stuck with the wrong size pistons. What do yall think?
- AFKOUKI
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Got an iphone over the weekend so my pictures should be much better from now on, but I am afraid to see my first bill lol. Well I got bored with V-day off, so I decided to paint my jgs manifold. I sandblasted it awhile back, so it was pretty much ready for paint.
Here is my high-tech state of the art zero dust or debris paint booth. Nothing but the best for me!
Got the idea to bake on the paint from watching spike tv on sunday morning lol.
I dont recommend it, my whole apartment smelled pretty toxic for several hours after. Had to chill with the windows open and fans on to get rid of the smell.
Finished product. Dont mind my greasy fingerprints, they are just from me pulling it out of the oven.
Here is my high-tech state of the art zero dust or debris paint booth. Nothing but the best for me!
Got the idea to bake on the paint from watching spike tv on sunday morning lol.
I dont recommend it, my whole apartment smelled pretty toxic for several hours after. Had to chill with the windows open and fans on to get rid of the smell.
Finished product. Dont mind my greasy fingerprints, they are just from me pulling it out of the oven.
Last edited by AFKOUKI on Tue Nov 13, 2012 3:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- schmauster920
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That VHT paint works pretty well, it kinda fades to a greyer color after time, but its surprisingly durable and lasts a while.
Ive noticed it helps keep heat in too... its not totally lying about the ceramic / silica.
Are you having problems shifting? It could be air in the clutch line not letting the clutch completely release.
Ive noticed it helps keep heat in too... its not totally lying about the ceramic / silica.
Are you having problems shifting? It could be air in the clutch line not letting the clutch completely release.
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress
- AFKOUKI
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Yeah I am. Occasionally It will grind and not let me into a gear, but I try a few times and I'll get it. i replaced the slave cylinder after I started to have issues, and bled the clutch then. The most annoying part is when I'm at a light and it will grind and not go into gear and the folks behind me get adgitated, I found a place where I can get an employee price on a rebuilt transmission with a 10k mile warrenty. I'm thinking about taking them up on that and just have everything in the driveline new, with no worries.
- schmauster920
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