sdaigle240 wrote:oh now that is whats up... never heard of them either. a few sweet designs for sure, too bad theres not more 17" options. the size you got is pretty nice though. damn i was hoping you were gonna put like 215/40s on it lol
Lol naaa, bigger is better!
I like the more japanese muscle look. Kinda like the old school celicas.
I've never heard of them before either but I liked them so I went ahead with it. I just need to find some time to put them on and get thus car painted!
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Sweet! I can say Im glad you did not stretch the crap out of your tires. I know most here would not agree with me, but not only does it look like they have no clue how to order the correct tire size but also a cheapskate that cant afford the right width of tire. It is not functional or safe by any means. Please stay in our camp!
your ride is looking awesome, I cant wait till I can start putting money in the body and wheels/tires..
Daily Driver: 2010 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7 TRD
Project and DD: 1995 Nissan 240sx Frankenstein
I live and breathephysics, mechanics, motorsports!!
Not rolled. I might pull the rears once I get an alignment though, it just depends on how it looks. I think I got lucky with wheel size and tire width when it comes to fitment, but it doesnt look too bad!
I am trying to decide on what color to paint the car. Maybe that light blue like the fenders? I want a color that goes well with white, but I'm not too good at picking colors.
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shift_down wrote:Not rolled.I think I got lucky with wheel size and tire width when it comes to fitment, but it doesnt look too bad!
Not too bad?! serious? They look F'N AWESOME man! ...come on, haha
Reason I was asking about the "roll" was because just flattening out that little lip that sticks out into the fender well (on stock fenders) gives about a half inch or a little more for tire clearance; which may be just enough for the tires to clear when the suspension compresses.
Oh and feel free to PM me if you have any questions about rolling or pulling; I've done more than a few rolled/hammered fenders myself.
cleantune wrote:.
Oh geez, I had a feeling the stretched tire argument was coming haha, carry on...
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lol ya me too.
You guys are crazy
I just wanted something for more grip, and didnt want it hanging over the rim. Im happy with the 255s in back. I think the front might need to be lowered a little bit though. I need to get an alignment in the morning and then go from there.
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I do consider myself open minded, I have tried to imagine my tires this way and I just cant do it. It looks terrible and I guess thats just my opinion, I would also consider your argument of race cars doing if you could show me something from this century of racing. Tire tech has come a long way, this might have been a viable option then but is no longer necessary. Anyway I didnt mean to spark a debate though I should have known better lol, shifts ride looks awesome period.
Daily Driver: 2010 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7 TRD
Project and DD: 1995 Nissan 240sx Frankenstein
I live and breathephysics, mechanics, motorsports!!
So I went for a little test drive to see if the whees rub, and one of them did, it was too low. So I hammered the rear fenders and decided to raise the rears just a little bit. This is what I found in the rear driver side. The axle boot is torn up and grease is everywhere, the bottom of the coilover is also eaten up a bit. I'm not sure which arms to adjust to fix this issue, but here it is:
Now I have to buy another axle, and maybe replace the coilover before I can finally get the car aligned.
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Huh, is it just like that on the one side? are the traction rods adjustable? If they are, maybe try "shortening" these and then adjust the toe accordingly.
In this pic...
shift_down wrote:
...It looks like the rear wheels are "sitting back" more than normal (maybe excessive caster or just the angle of the pic?). Were the traction rods the same length as the OEM traction rods when they were installed?
**Oh and are the top plates of the rear coilovers adjustable for camber and/or caster? or can the top plate only be installed one way?
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The other side is not like that at all. The other side's coilover is exactly in the middle of the upper control arm and it clears the axle just fine. The rear top hats are not adjustable, and I'm not sure if hey fit one way or two, but Ill check on that. I dont have an oem traction rod for comparison, but both sides use the same adjustable rod. Im going to see if shortening the rod helps.
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So I have the differential out, and I have a j30 differential also. Its the 5 bolt axles. I am trying to decide if I should just switch the internals from the j30 into the 240 diff, or just slap the j30 on. If I use the j30 diff, I'm probably going to have to use longer mounting bolts since the j30 diff uses bushings. Also, I was reading that there is about a half inch difference in length between the two diff's, and I'm not sure if this will be a problem or not. I doubt it, but I might just stay with the stock diff housing.
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So I pulled both diff's apart. The j30 has 5bolt output shafts. Now the j30 shafts are different sizes, one is longer than the other. While the s13 diff output shafts are the same sizes. Do I use the j30shafts or the s13 shafts?
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Ya I saw that. So I tried swapping internals and it doesn't work. I put the j30 diff back together but I can't remember which output shaft goes to which side. There is a long one and a short one. Once I figure that out, I'll just use j30 axles
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