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Post by shift_down »

so i started it up and man i was so nervous. it was the first start up she has seen in a year!

She sounds like a beast! but is smoking a bit. Mostly from the exhaust manifold and shifter hole. I think it is smoking because i didnt tighten the bolts on the manifold enough, and also my midpipe ends right under the front of the tranny, thats probably why it looks like it is smoking from the shifter location. idk...? Oh and also, I pushed the clutch in to start the car, but when i was letting go it was making a wierd noise, kind of like a grinding noise. Not sure what thats abut,

But all in all, she idles at exactly 1000rpm, gotta love enthalpy.
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Post by 500hpKA240sx »

Throw out bearing is bad
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Post by shift_down »

oh, and the ac still doesnt work :P time for the ac diagnostic side of me to kick in.
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Post by shift_down »

500hpKA240sx wrote:Throw out bearing is bad
dont make me cry. I replaced it with a new one.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Nice to hear you got it started.. It could be the oil and other junk on the exhaust parts burning off since you were touching them with oily hands for a long time
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Post by 500hpKA240sx »

shift_down wrote:
500hpKA240sx wrote:Throw out bearing is bad
dont make me cry. I replaced it with a new one.
Easy way to check have the car running have it in neutral and listen while you disengage the clutch and you should hear it and then when you engage the clutch it should go away.

And he's right from touching everything it will burn all the oils off your ok there
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Post by shift_down »

video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Caf04Jbf ... e=youtu.be

Ok I got home from work and started her up. She starts up right away every time. I let her idle for 10 minutes so I can better assess the car. The efans kicked on, and the coolant started passing through the lines into the turbo. I could tell the oil was flowing because the feed line was hot to the touch. I shut the car off, and immediatley tried to turn it back on; but she wouldn't turn on.

I can hear the fuel pump, so I know its working. The lights come on when I turn the key to on(not start). But I need some advice on where to go from here.
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Post by supakat »

Look at the FM for hot starting issues.
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Post by shift_down »

supakat wrote:Look at the FM for hot starting issues.
I looked all over the fsm and couldnt find anything like a troubleshooting section.

But I just got off work, went outside and started the car. She fired up right away. weird stuff,

Im thinking coolant temp sensor. I will check trouble codes tomorrow if I have any.
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Post by shift_down »

I changed the cts, it was only 16$ so I said what the heck and did it. I don't have a check engine light thoug.h. I will have to do some more digging, the car still has ways to go.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Get one if you can

Cheap but with a long shipping time from china

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-Nissa ... be&vxp=mtr


A little more, but shipped from the US

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagnostic-Inte ... v4exp=true


Best diagnostic tool
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Post by shift_down »

Oh nice. Thank you! I didn't know they made these for obd1. I have one for my obd2 cars and love it, i used it today actually.

Definitely ordering this thank you.

Edit: Ordered.
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Post by shift_down »

Just a note to self:
I started the car and it was shaking like a mofo. It idled at 900rpm and the needle didn't move, so that's good news. A shaking engine usually means a misfire, but then why would it idle perfectly? I should probably check fuel injectors, then spark plugs.

p.s. i remember the injector wires were very loose, even coming out of the plugs some times. that could be the reason that it is shaking, maybe one of the injectors are disconnected, man im smart :P
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Post by ATL240 »

how did it turn out?
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Post by shift_down »

I haven't checked yet, but I will within an hour or two.
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Post by shift_down »

I tried tightening up the manifold and downpipe bolts the best I could and the leak is almost gone. Afrs now show 13.9-14 at idle. I tap the gas gets the afrs down between 10-12.5. The exhaust doesn't escape the manifold unless I rev the engine so its a lot better. Engine still shakes a lot though, no cel on, backfired about 3 times while I was revving it.
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Post by shift_down »

Ok... Something sounded like it is was rattling around in the engine bay and I kept trying to pinpointthe noise and I think I found it. It sounds like something is rattling around in the valve cover. Maybe that's why my engine is shaking? I'm going to open it up and see.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Check the top of the valve cover there the chain would hit if you dont find anything obvious
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Post by shift_down »

Ya it sounds like popcorn or knocking from the front of the valve cover and I can feel a small thump when i place my hand on the valve cover. You are probably right about it being something with the chain. I know almost nothing about nissan (im a honda guy) so this will be my time to learn. Do you think something is wrong with the tensioner? maybe chain guides?

I will check it out once i get the chance but first i need to open up this valve cover.
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Post by schmauster920 »

I havent had a problem personally, but i know a lot of people have. Very common with aftermarket chains/tensioners/pulleys. The tensioners have an oil hole in the wrong spot causing all kinds of issues, the pulleys are cast badly... i dont know about the chains though... just get OSK (nissan) if you need another set.


If you search around here therers all kinds of failures, it seems a lot of people got a good deal on their 240 because of chain/tensioner problems lol
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Post by shift_down »

I pulled the valve cover and spark plugs off. I found everything to look good under the valve cover. The chain guide looked brand new also. the chain looked new too. But I pulled off the upper guide anyway just incase that was the source of the problem. But for some reason 3/4 of my new spark plugs have black on them:

.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Looks like the clean plug isnt firing, check the injector wire on that cylinder... if you dont know which one it came out of.. then put them back in, and run it for a few minutes.. whichever one doesnt match is having the issue.
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Post by shift_down »

Alright, ill run a few process of elimination tests and see what's going on.
I'll clean the plugs, then start up the car again and see what they look like. I'll see if maybe I didn't have the wires on tight enough. If the plug wire isn't firing, ill see if its bad. I wonder if the dizzy can cause only 1 wire not to work if its bad, or if its an all or nothing kind of thing? I'm going to have to do some research on this. Also, one of the plugs smelled like fuel, so I smelled the rest and they didn't smell like fuel. I can't remember which one smelled like fuel, but I'm betting it was the plug that wasnt firing.
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Post by schmauster920 »

I have a few old spark plug wires i keep around for testing this sort of thing.

Sounds like the one plug isnt sparking, but its getting fuel, make sure the wires are plugged in all the way on the cap/rotor.. also pull the cap off and clean the contacts inside that the rotors arcs to, one might be really bad.

The wire should pop onto the plug when you push it down, the wire can get pulled up, or pushed down and make it not contact the plug, or sit high, not flush with the valve cover.

You can also swap spark plug wires (at plugs and cap) and see if the problem follows the wire.
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Post by shift_down »

ok i will do all of that and see what happens.

Before I pulled the plugs, I ran through all the gears and it felt really good. The shifter still extends WAY back when I put it into reverse, but i can smoothly engage each gear. I think the tranny fluid just needed to warm up and move around a bit.

I'm painting my valve cover right now while its off lol, that's why I haven't had time to troubleshoot my motor.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Image

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flui ... 92924.html


You should grab one of those for bleeding your brakes and clutch, it pulls the fluid through really fast and does a nice job, its hard to bleed the clutch really well without it.

Plus you can easily flush the crap out of the whole brake system with one person, and no sore legs.


Its a nice tool to have around for sure.. not to mention you can use it for other stuff like changing your power steering fluid, etc
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Post by shift_down »

What would I do without you? :P harbor freight is 1 mile away from my house so ill pick one up tomorrow. Thanks for the info.
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Post by schmauster920 »

The one that i have has a little hook that locks the handle on, so you can just leave it sucking, and add brake fluid as it pulls it down, and tighten the bleeder screw as it has vaccum on it. It is really a nice tool. You can even unscrew the air handle and use it as a blower nozzle if you dont have one.


lol Theres a bunch of little things that i figured out along the way, reading your thread reminds me of where i was and what i should have done the first time around.. Im glad to help, thanks for your appreciation!
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Post by shift_down »

Primed
.
Image
.
Taped and painted the letters Red
.
Image
.
Painted the rest blue
.
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.
.
Looks pretty bad :/ Oh well, I'll try rockin it for a little.
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Post by schmauster920 »

The lettering looks pretty good... you could just go back to black, or do some crazy camo / zebra / leopard print type of thing.



Or epoxy porn mag pictures on your valve cover lol
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