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Haha ya! I have so much oil and coolant on the floor its crazy! I'm gonna need to get some litter from my sister.
My fitting came in so I can now finally drive the car.
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My fitting came in so I can now finally drive the car.
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Green pea soup/baby diarreah
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Ok so I started the car and blows out white smoke, motor sounds good though. It's not coolant, it just smells like hardcore exhaust. Afrs are at 18 at idle for some reason but they go down to 13 when I'm on the gas. How much smoke is normal o be blowing out of the exhaust?
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- schmauster920
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It might smoke for a few secs after you start it but it should burn out pretty quickly.
It might be burning fuel / carbon crap out of the exhaust since it was dumping fuel into it for a bit. You dont have a catalytic converter do you?
Run it a while longer and get the exhaust hot before you stress about it.
It might be burning fuel / carbon crap out of the exhaust since it was dumping fuel into it for a bit. You dont have a catalytic converter do you?
Run it a while longer and get the exhaust hot before you stress about it.
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Not running a cat, ok ill do that.
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Decided to go 5 lug. If I don't sell my brakes by the time I get new wheels (3-4 months) I'm just going to keep them.
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good choiceshift_down wrote:Decided to go 5 lug. If I don't sell my brakes by the time I get new wheels (3-4 months) I'm just going to keep them.
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Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
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Finally drove the car around the neighborhood but stayed below 3k rpm to break the clutch in properly. The car smokes a lot at the turbo and exhaust. I checked intercooler piping and there is no sign of oil. I do have a small leak at the restrictor that I'm going to tighten up once it cools down, but that doesn't explain oil from the exhaust. I hope my turbo is okay. m going to pull the downpipe and see what I find.
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No shaft play, I should probably check the seals.
There is a small leak at the bottom of the return hose, also the return bung points a little less then horizontal. This could be a problem.
There is a small leak at the bottom of the return hose, also the return bung points a little less then horizontal. This could be a problem.
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- schmauster920
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I'll post them up soon. Now that i think about it, my oil return looks really bad.
The pics are kinda hard to tell exactly but it does lean down a little.
The pics are kinda hard to tell exactly but it does lean down a little.
Last edited by shift_down on Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Shaft rebuilt with no shaft play
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Oil return: not what I like to see :/
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I think I am going to redo the bung with an AN fitting.
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Oil return: not what I like to see :/
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I think I am going to redo the bung with an AN fitting.
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- schmauster920
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Im sure there are more people with straight fittings on their oil pan.. The way the KA slants makes it worse i know.
Im not sure if it would cause issues, others will chime in though.
Dont forget to grab that bolt next to your motor mount lol
Im not sure if it would cause issues, others will chime in though.
Dont forget to grab that bolt next to your motor mount lol
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lmao, I just noticed that bolt!
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I still cant figure out why my car is burning oil, but I did pick this up:
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they didn't have the pneumatic one :/
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they didn't have the pneumatic one :/
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Very frustrated with this car right now. Idle is at 18afr, I've been bleeding the clutch for an hour and it still has air in the lines...dont understand why?...
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Im going to start troubleshooting the obvious.
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Im going to start troubleshooting the obvious.
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- schmauster920
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Crack the line connections loose and bleed them while someone is holding the clutch down.
Get a can of computer cleaner (since its dry) and seal the top of your clutch fluid with your hand and stick the straw in the clutch fluid reservoir. Pressurize it and blow it out the bleeder at the bottom, add it a few times and keep blowing it out, just dont let the reservoir run dry.
Ive heard about special tools to do this, but theres no reason it wont work. The idea is to move the fluid quickly so the air bubbles come down, and out the bleeder screw.
It could just be a leaky clutch slave or loose line too.
Get a can of computer cleaner (since its dry) and seal the top of your clutch fluid with your hand and stick the straw in the clutch fluid reservoir. Pressurize it and blow it out the bleeder at the bottom, add it a few times and keep blowing it out, just dont let the reservoir run dry.
Ive heard about special tools to do this, but theres no reason it wont work. The idea is to move the fluid quickly so the air bubbles come down, and out the bleeder screw.
It could just be a leaky clutch slave or loose line too.
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I changed the slave, but the problem persists. I think my clutch pedal spring is broken. I tried removing it but was unsuccessful, so ill try living with it until I feel like dealing with it. Right now ill worry about everything else.
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as she sits now:
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- schmauster920
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It looks really nice! Monster FMIC.. The wheels look nice on it too.
Pull the clutch pedal up while bleeding, this might help.
The clutch spring looks like it might be ok, you can see where it bends up and over in the middle. If you move the pedal with your hand, you should be able to see the whole spring flex around
Pull the clutch pedal up while bleeding, this might help.
The clutch spring looks like it might be ok, you can see where it bends up and over in the middle. If you move the pedal with your hand, you should be able to see the whole spring flex around
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Thanks, I know that fmic is beast. I might have a little extra lag though, just a little lol.
No matter what I do, there is always bubbles in my clutch drain line. I've drained clutches before , so I don't understand what the problem is. I tried everything. There are no leaks anywhere so I just don't get it. The clutch pedal has no resistance half way down, but then it feels good. And when I let go of the pedal, it only comes half way up until I pull it back up with my foot. I might change the master cylinder if I still can't figure it out.
No matter what I do, there is always bubbles in my clutch drain line. I've drained clutches before , so I don't understand what the problem is. I tried everything. There are no leaks anywhere so I just don't get it. The clutch pedal has no resistance half way down, but then it feels good. And when I let go of the pedal, it only comes half way up until I pull it back up with my foot. I might change the master cylinder if I still can't figure it out.
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You could try adjusting the rod on the CM.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
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- beercandrifter
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Thanks , she is my baby.
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.supakat wrote:You could try adjusting the rod on the CM.
I'll give it a shot, but I'm still unsure why there are always bubbles when bleeding the clutch. I think there is a hole somewhere, but no fluid is leaking out.
Last edited by shift_down on Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Could be rubber seals on the CM.
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Ya, that's what's coming to my mind. I might change it out and bleed, and see what happens.
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oh ya! Could it be? It is!
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