Gotenks64's ongoing build

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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by supakat »

If you look at the FSM, it says you can run 20w-40/50 if ambient temp is above 50*F for all seasons. Hence running Rotella 15w-40 works for me here in South Florida. I would run 10w-40 and see how that works out. I would also suggest running Rotella or any diesel recommended oil within the weight you want. Reason is because of the phosphorous and zinc content which is higher than regular oil which helps reduce wear and tear plus cleans up the engine pretty good.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

ok supakat got ya! I am going to try a few things. I need to cut my bumper to get better airflow I am going to use one of the examples you posted in that thread about a month around. The crack in the manifold was BAD, the bottom weld was crack almost from left to right. My friend that is a professional welder said he will hook me up and fix it. So hopefully I'll have in back in ime for the 19th when I get my full exhaust welded up! supakat do you prefer turbosmart WG's to Tial? If so why? I need to purchase one myself and then getting a electronic boost controller.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by supakat »

Both brands are good and have good reputation. I would get the cheaper priced one.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

I am going to go Tial. I got the manifold welded up it had 2 cracks in the welds... :( fix and I got it back on the car. I need to do alittle dress up and I should be able to fire it up today or tommorrow.

I found this on Knock light on ebay.Says its hand made, Anyone seen this before? Has 150 sold! I contacted him says it works on the OEM s13 sensor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181309925670?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by s14fiend »

supakat wrote:If you look at the FSM, it says you can run 20w-40/50 if ambient temp is above 50*F for all seasons. Hence running Rotella 15w-40 works for me here in South Florida. I would run 10w-40 and see how that works out. I would also suggest running Rotella or any diesel recommended oil within the weight you want. Reason is because of the phosphorous and zinc content which is higher than regular oil which helps reduce wear and tear plus cleans up the engine pretty good.

Ditto on the oil aspect, using a high content of zinc is beneficial.

You could also run Amsoil Dominator racing oil its by far the best as far as engine wear protection really high zinc composition in the creation of it (catalytic users beware I fried my daily catalytic in like 2 weeks of using the oil), I am an Amsoil Dealer and soon to be website.

As your engine builder based on clearances what oil grade they recommend. If not built stick to factory grade oil.

just my :twocents-02cents:
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Ok note taken!

On other news I got my mani welded up and I have no more idle issues. The car boosted to 6 PSI and held it. Now I have to change the tune though. Because it is running lean in boost. So I attribute the super rich boost conditions I had to the manifold leaking air. I get my exhaust welded up tomorrow so hopefully I can make a video.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by airman »

Awesome update :D Glad to hear you could be spinning some tires soon.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Well I upgraded to a precision 15 psi wastegate. Car was pulling well, then another weld blew on my intake manifold..:(. I think I am going to just take it off and go back to stock or buy and xcessive one. Does anone know if I have to run Top feed injectors with the xcessive intake manifold?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Update: Today to I purchased the xcessive intake manifold, xcessive lowering mounts, and the xcessive Power Steering/ AC delete kit. Hopefully I can have it all in hand by the end of next week! The crack in this custom manifold is aggravating, and I have a suspicion that it will crack again if I try to repair it.

I am also hoping the lowering mounts will stop the down-pipe from hitting the firewall, and vibrating at about 2500 rpm. Has anyone used this
http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ON ... =4&pid=220

Also anyone running the xcessive manifold still running sidefeed injectors? I dont want to have to change from my 850cc SARDS..
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Just a quick update, basically doing an overhaul.

Parts
Image

Manifold I will be using
Image


Image

Thursday xcessive intake manifold should bere here! I changed the spring in my wastegate to a 7.5psi combo, I am going to get electronic boost managment until I get it I will probably run 10 psi with the manual boost controller.

One of my valve cover bolts is stripped up front causing an oil leak, got a 1/4 tap and bolts to fix it, New spark plugs on the way I was using NGK Iridiums at a 5 heat range, ordered 7's. New to order new knock sensor, and do a little bay clean up and I should be good to go!
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

I have begun the install of the new manifold! I have a problem though which seems to be recurring... my throttle cable is too short. It applies pressure to much pressure on the throttle plate at its longest setting. Anyone have this problem with this manifold?

Image

I have this here in hopes of stretching it, or atleast keep it closed whrn I first start it. I dont have a IAVC, the plate is cracked by the adjustment screw.
Image

Second topic that I am unsure of is whether to use this new manifold as it is shown mocked up here, or to used my old manifold. IF I use the new one I'll have to take it to a shop to get reweld. If I use the old one I can just bolt it on and go! I bought an ISIS 7 layer exhaust gasket that I hope gets rid my exhaust slight leaks.

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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Got the new pipes welded and connected up. I thin the BOV is too close to the MAF now though because when I come off of boost it runs lean for about 3 seconds and bogs.

The MAF is right above the BOV..
Image

Trying to get the BOV moved to this pipe
Image

Image

Section added to the downpipe
Image

The Xcessive lowering mounts are sturdy and having both Circuit Sports mounts in place make the car vibrate a little more that I am use to at idle but fine when moving.I can also feel the shift of the center of gravity the car transitions smoother in turns. I am running a 7.5 psi waste-gate spring but actual having a manifold that doesn't leak and holds boost is amazing! It pulls great on low boost, and going though the gears it feels pretty linear. I only took it on a few runs because of the MAF/BOV location problem I am having. I am also in need of a coolant thread sealer. I need to better seal the threads on the intake manifold for the coolant lines, does anyone know a good sealer I could use? I also order graphite gasket to make a gasket around the vband it is leaking....slightly.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Video Link

http://youtu.be/1vJgWltunF4

Image

I gave in and bought a TiAl BOV, love the way it sounds and works without having to adjust it! Running 5 psi for the time being while I get everything straight.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by nissanfanatic »

A good way to look for vacuum leaks is to spray suspect areas with brake parts cleaner. There will be a noticeable change in engine rpm when you hit one.

The oils I would recommend would be:

German Castrol 0w-40
Rotella T6 5W-40
Mobil 1 0w-40

All are cheap at Wally World. I recently went with the German Castrol because it is $21 for five quarts at Wally World (cheaper than Rotella). It shows very good oil analysis results on the VQ35 which is very hard on oil.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Ok thanks for the info little update

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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Update: Drained and put in some redline MT-90 transmission feels much better, and easier to go into gear. Got a quote from a tuner at 150 dollars an hour for a tune for the car. I am running about 6 psi now I don't feel comfortable going pass 10psi without a dyno thats just me. So I am going to get a AEM electronic boost controller and get tuned for probably about 18-20psi! But then I will run it at about 10-12 daily. So, things to come in order!:

Xcessive Skid plate
ISIS Coilovers( SInce my friends keep asking me how much my LIFT kit was lol)
AEM Boost controller
Dyno Tune for 18-20 psi
180sx front-end conversion

I am also having a weird issue, I blew two Greddy turbo timers when I hooked them to my ignition..
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Update: Turbo is blown I think. Where the exhaust housing meets the turbine housing is leaking and there is a little oil on the base of the vband clamp.IT is just shooting exhaust pretty bad. It happened about 15 mins after the car spiked to around 9ish PSI. I heard what I thought was a gasket going out and when I got home it was the turbo leaking. So I Am going to send it out to a diesel shop near buy and get it rebuilt. Everything else is normal with the car

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWTJgBPsnVY
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Not alot for foot traffic as of late but I'll update anyway!

Took turbo off the exhaust housing and indeed there was oil in the exhaust housing. Packed up the turbo shipped it out to a shop for a full rebuild. I am headed to Korea for a week so hopefully I have it when I get back!
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Ok so blocked drain port caused out to flood out of the turbo... After I took care of that it seems the turbo is not spinning at idle anymore. I attributed this to the new bearings. With that said, I am doing a pull in forth gear I hear what it seems to be as a gasket blowing. Come to find out my waste-gate had backed off and is now laying in my engine bay. I lost 1 screw and a valve seat on my way home. I dont understand I cannot drive the car without an issue it is really infuriating..... :angry-teeth: I need to order a new valve seat and wastegate bolts and I should be back on the road. Hopefully.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Update:
Image

Got my TruBoost in! And the Coolant gauge working I am going to get ready to make appoint for the dyno. I dont know how I feel about getting it tuned in the Winter tho, since the IAT will shoot up in the summer.
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by p00t »

Man it's been a lot of ups and downs for you. The body work was really well done.

ATPturbo has some slick locking nuts that I have used in the past with some success. My t28 inlet flange would try to loosen up every chance it got until I used these: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... y_Code=FST

If your waste gate doesnt already have studs switch over to them, and use as fat of a washer as possible to act as a buffer, it will keep the nut just a little bit cooler.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Ok thanks

Update: I am suppose to hit the dyno in two days and my water temp gauge(Prosport)This gauge is in the upper radiator hose.. its starting to move when get into boost:( so I am going to have to tight up this manifold.. The thermal gasket that comes with it was leaking so I think that's the problem.

Edit: I just tried to tighten up the manifold but it seems like it still happening alittle. Has anyone experienced this> I dont know if it is the temperature probe or a ground from the probe. As I said before the stock gauge doesnt move and that is the one that use to give me issues. I am afraid to dyno it now.... And its in 2 days. I feel as if boost was getting into the system there would be alot of hot air going pass the stock sensor and show false over heating.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by supakat »

Pressurize the cooling system and see if you have a leak.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

supakat wrote:Pressurize the cooling system and see if you have a leak.
I didn't get a kit but I tighten everything down well, and after the car ran and cooled for about 30 mins I went outside and opened the radiator top, and the system was still pressurized. I think I don't have the temperature probe in the correct spot. It is in the upper house but hangs lower and is angled.

I AM GETTING IT DYNO'd TODAY!

We will see what the tuner recommends, and I also think I need a fan controller. Right now the fans turn on when the car is running, anyone have any Ideas for this. I am using the stock AC fan as well.
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Image

DYNO Sheet, MA-Motorsports up in Baltimore MD did my tune. They told me the Dyno Dynamic Dyno's read low and to add 13% for correction. That would put me at about 342ish WHP and 292ish Torque. Which on my set up I am not complaining about, tune is conservative as well.The injectors were at about 55-60% Duty Cycle, but my cheap eBay intercooler is restrictive and the WG needs to be at about 12psi base not 7psi as I have it now, he was getting a lot of problems from this. The final run was on 15 psi.

He told me a few things:

Upgrade the intercooler( I am looking at the ISIS one)
Bring my WasteGate Springs up
With that he can see me getting into high 300's maybe breaking into 400s!

My tune on 6 psi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4Lkhxnl8TY

15psi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0_MaZEZeTE
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by S14wayz »

nice numbers man 340 in a hatch you can defiantly feel that! What FPR is that??
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Fuel pressure is about 43psi which is around stock. I took it out on 10 psi and then on 15......WOW this thing feels like a train and just keep pulling through the whole RPM range. I think I am going going to leave setting A at 10psi and setting B at 15. I need to get a GoPro so I can do an in cabin. This Tial BOV sounds sweet too.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

Picked this 300z transmission up for 100

Image

this worries me though... I didn't see it till I got home, is this replacable?

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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by supakat »

Nice pick up. You can replace it but just bend it back for free. It only serves to change gears. Put it in each gear and turn the input shaft while looking at the output shaft to make sure it spins.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Post by Gotenks64 »

supakat wrote:Nice pick up. You can replace it but just bend it back for free. It only serves to change gears. Put it in each gear and turn the input shaft while looking at the output shaft to make sure it spins.
Thanks Supa, Ok i'll do that. Which kit do you have again? I need to start saving lol
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
Cosmetic Head Gasket
.020 Over Bore with Wiseco 9:1
Eagle Rods
Fully balanced rotating assembly
Stock flywheel
Spec Stage 3+ Clutch
ARP'ed Everything
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SARD 850cc Injectors
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