Gotenks64's ongoing build

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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 4:33 am

Another vid after a run
http://youtu.be/c2evSXz8kDE

My BOV is cracked open alot at idle, I am only hitting 4ish psi of boost. I am running a blow-through set up, the BOV is before the MAF. It seems to close when the car is boosting, but I am thinking maybe it is leaking..
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby tchida14 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 2:22 pm

I think people are mixing up the he341 and hy35 turbo. Every where on the internet people are using one name for the other, although I have found that they are COMPLETELY different turbos. In fact if you look at the holset website for the service manuals here: http://www.myholsetturbo.com/modelinfo.html you can see that the he341ve turbo has a different service manual from the hy35w. And if you look at the he341 in the manual, you can tell it is definitely not what people call the "he341". If you look through the hy35w manual, you will find that there are 4 types. hy35w type A-D. the type D is the latest greatest version that I think is what people are calling the 341. The HY35W type D is what I have on my hardbody, with the 90* compressor outlet and vband exhaust outlet. The type D comes from the 03-04 automatic cummins dodge ram. The HE351 with the electronic thing on the compressor housing is from the 04.5-07 rams I believe. I think the real he341 is a rare find.

This is what I have, same as yours: the HY35W Type D http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32 ... AG0669.jpg

I'm not sure how credible this is looking on forums and such but this guy from a 4bt cummins forum seems to agree with the information I have provided above.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthrea ... W-vs-HE341

"Just so everybody knows the turbo everyone is calling a HE341 is really an HY35W Type D. The real HE341 is a VE series and mega expensive. I saw a used one available a month or so ago and it was $2200. The turbo we are all looking for came on 2003-2004 Dodge Cummins. If you look at the ID tag it says HY35W which is exactly what it is. I have a Holset service manual for the HY35W and it clearly shows all the variations. There were even 2 different style bearings for the Type D units."

Hope this helps clear up some confusion that may come up when searching for info on these turbos.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:06 am

tchida14 wrote:I think people are mixing up the he341 and hy35 turbo. Every where on the internet people are using one name for the other, although I have found that they are COMPLETELY different turbos. In fact if you look at the holset website for the service manuals here: http://www.myholsetturbo.com/modelinfo.html you can see that the he341ve turbo has a different service manual from the hy35w. And if you look at the he341 in the manual, you can tell it is definitely not what people call the "he341". If you look through the hy35w manual, you will find that there are 4 types. hy35w type A-D. the type D is the latest greatest version that I think is what people are calling the 341. The HY35W type D is what I have on my hardbody, with the 90* compressor outlet and vband exhaust outlet. The type D comes from the 03-04 automatic cummins dodge ram. The HE351 with the electronic thing on the compressor housing is from the 04.5-07 rams I believe. I think the real he341 is a rare find.

This is what I have, same as yours: the HY35W Type D http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk32 ... AG0669.jpg

I'm not sure how credible this is looking on forums and such but this guy from a 4bt cummins forum seems to agree with the information I have provided above.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthrea ... W-vs-HE341

"Just so everybody knows the turbo everyone is calling a HE341 is really an HY35W Type D. The real HE341 is a VE series and mega expensive. I saw a used one available a month or so ago and it was $2200. The turbo we are all looking for came on 2003-2004 Dodge Cummins. If you look at the ID tag it says HY35W which is exactly what it is. I have a Holset service manual for the HY35W and it clearly shows all the variations. There were even 2 different style bearings for the Type D units."

Hope this helps clear up some confusion that may come up when searching for info on these turbos.


Thanks man! That is some good research. Hopefully that information will help others in the future. I have to change my sig around now lol. Good stuff.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:52 am

Update: I put about 200 miles on the car this weekend! Car is running awesome, Crusing AFR are a little rich 12.7- 13.1.....Idle is 14.2-14.7 I am only running about 4 PSI of boost as my gauge reads. But its ripping on that... I am surprised, check and pulled the plugs everything is looking good. Changed the oil to shell rosella 5W-40. water temps are a little high I feel like 216ish but that is right before the outlet on the manifold. I am going to run this while I upgrade the cooling slightly. I got a Greddy Turbo Timer off a friend I am going to try to find the harness for.

Next things up to purchase:

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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:38 pm

Image

Image

This came in today and got an Greddy Turbo timer and harness from my boy earlier!
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Sun Aug 24, 2014 11:07 am

Update: Got the Turbo timer in. Set it at 2 minutes, cuts off it the e-brake is let down. I think I have a small boost leak before the MAF so its not effecting the tune. I am only seeing about 3 psi of boost and the wastegate is set at 8 psi. I have no Manuel boost controller so this is just the wastegate here. I have the WG connected to the turbo, I am thinking about moving it to my vacuum block to see if it changes. I believe I am going to have to change my inter cooler and the way it mounts because I cannot put the bash bar in.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby 614s14 » Sun Aug 24, 2014 6:55 pm

I'm really interested in seeing how that smog pump works out for you. Is it designed to pull a constant vacuum in crankcase?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Sun Aug 24, 2014 7:14 pm

Yup, It works I am working on a way to put it in the bay aesthetically.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby supakat » Mon Aug 25, 2014 9:08 am

Make sure you have the fire ring on the wg installed.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Mon Aug 25, 2014 6:58 pm

supakat wrote:Make sure you have the fire ring on the wg installed.


I believe I do. I am going to check now tho.... You had have issues from not having it?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:22 am

Turbo timer installed

Image

My set up
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby bmaddock » Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:41 am

Sweet build thread! Sure this ka-t.org and all but I'm most interested in how you painted the car and got such good results? Any tips for your garage paint job? Was that done using a paint spray gun?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Wed Aug 27, 2014 2:42 pm

bmaddock wrote:Sweet build thread! Sure this ka-t.org and all but I'm most interested in how you painted the car and got such good results? Any tips for your garage paint job? Was that done using a paint spray gun?


Its part of the 240 building experience; lol so it rightfully should be here. My best friends dad owns a auto-body shop. I have been going there learning and helping for about 10 years. So I learned a valuable life skill that can be profitable on the side. I used everything that a normal body/paint shop would use. HVLP spray gun, mixed the base coat, clar, have all the proper sand papers, and I tarped the garaged turning it into a negative flow booth. Everything needs to be clean, you need the correct CFM of the compressor and proper ventilation. I can't think of anything else lol

Question though, if I stomp on it in a low gear sometimes I get a sputter if I shift to fast. I am thinking that the BOV isnt venting the air and its flowing back toward my MAF, causing the sputter. Has anyone else experienced this?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby S14wayz » Wed Aug 27, 2014 10:28 pm

did you check your plugs? I had a similar problem on my s13 but it was a bad coil and plugs. Replaced those and it ran like new. My sputtering was accompanied with backfiring too though
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Thu Aug 28, 2014 4:09 am

S14wayz wrote:did you check your plugs? I had a similar problem on my s13 but it was a bad coil and plugs. Replaced those and it ran like new. My sputtering was accompanied with backfiring too though


I am thinking about this,has anyone done this before?
http://youtu.be/44rSmOEGJDE
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:16 pm

Image

Image

Now I have to get coil overs to lower..:(.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby supakat » Sat Aug 30, 2014 11:51 am

Yes. The rewire works well. I ran this when I had chipped ecu.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:45 am

supakat wrote:Yes. The rewire works well. I ran this when I had chipped ecu.


Ok thanks, I am going to have to do this.

Update: I bought a NXS manual boost controller but my wastegate spring is set at like 4 psi. So it will only increase the boost a few more pounds because the wastegate is so sensitive. I am going to purchase a Tial wastegate with a 10 pound spring. I have been burning through gas so I decreased m K constant and adjust the injector latencies but it will randomly run lean at idle 17.0 - 18.0ish then go to 14ish then run at 12ish. I have the 02 flags on for idle and cruising. When I turn off the 02 it I get changes in AFR depending on the weather outside. Does anyone just run without the 02 flags turned on in NIStune for cruising and idle?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby supakat » Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:31 am

When I was chipped, I ran with 02 flags off. Don't let AFR mess with you. As long as it is not 17.0 at idle for more than 3 seconds, no big deal. I like when it idles lean a bit to help clean the plugs.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby adamky » Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:03 am

I've actually never used O2 feedback on my car. Sometimes it will idle in the mid-high 16's (AFR) depending on the weather, but it's never been a problem. The last time I tried using it, I actually found that turning it on caused the idle and cruise AFRs to be less stable than they were if I just left O2 feedback off.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:53 pm

adamky wrote:I've actually never used O2 feedback on my car. Sometimes it will idle in the mid-high 16's (AFR) depending on the weather, but it's never been a problem. The last time I tried using it, I actually found that turning it on caused the idle and cruise AFRs to be less stable than they were if I just left O2 feedback off.


Took your and supakat's advice. Turned off the fields. Drove to my unit this weekend 120 miles back and forth had no issues. Only problem I saw was with my oil pressure. after cruising for awhile when I idled my oil pressure was at like 3-4 psi! I was not beating on it just cruising. I set my turbo timer to about 5 minutes when I got out my car. I am running shell rotella t6 5w-40. I thought this would be thick enough to keep my pressure up.. I guess not:( Its not event that hot today it was about 79.

second observation/question: I think I want to purchase an electronic boost controller. What would be a good one to purchase?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Mon Sep 08, 2014 1:47 pm

Put the bash bar on today and changed my Boost/Vac to just reading the boost pressure from the compressor housing. While driving today I noticed I was running lean at idle 17-18ish AFR. I have check all my vacuum hoses and release the adjust screw on the Throttle body and the car is idling at 1200 RPMS. I cannot locate the vacuum leak. I am starting to think the intake manny has a crack in it somewhere. I sprayed brake cleaner around and could not find it. I do have a block off plate on the manifold where the IACV is suppose to be. But that did not seam to leak. Nothing from the vacuum block is leaking either. Its just really random. The leak is consist enough to hold idle but I dont hear anything hissing.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby airman » Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:09 pm

I'm pretty sure brake boosters can leak, so that could be a source of a vacuum leak if you can't find any around the manifold.

What does your vacuum gauge show at idle & 1200RPM?
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby arob987 » Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:48 pm

Build looks good keep up the good work.yes brake boosters can leak,had that problem before.have you tried pressurizing the intake manifold by doing a boost leak test,it will pressurize any vacumn source that doesn't have a check valve and its easier to hear over a running car.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby supakat » Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:13 am

Yes, boost leak test.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby airman » Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:36 am

For a boost leak test, make sure you turn the check valve around on the brake booster line. This way you would pressurize the brake booster to further your effort in leak detection.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:18 am

Ok, did the test and the manifold around the welds is leaking.... Car was revving to 3k when I was in traffic... I am going to pull it off and take it to a guy around the corner to put a bead around where the runners meet the main portion of the intake mani.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby TrackStarGT » Fri Sep 12, 2014 7:15 am

glad you found the leak, also, i would take care of that oil pressure problem. Was that measured with an accurate gauge? that is just enough pressure to oil the engine at idle. An engine can run without oil for a long time, especially one that is well broken in. Watch some youtube videos on it. So, saying that, the point Im trying to make, is that when your motor is running on 3-4 psi you could be having some serious wear going on without any signs or symptoms. Then all the sudden you have some serious head wear and related issues or a spun bearing. The thing is with these KAs with turbos, cooling and oiling become WAAAAAYYYY more important. So, please look into that issue so you keep that KA24DET healthy. ;)

Aslo, running a more viscous oil is not the way to effectively raise oil pressure. you want more flow from an increase in pressure, not just an increase in pressure. If you are not running the manufacturers recommened oil and do not have sufficient oil pressure, increasing viscosity will not fix your problem and could actually make it worse. The increase in the thickness of the oil can and will put more strain and resistance on the oil pump which is directly driven by crank shaft and there for resistance and strain on the engine as a whole, as well as decreasing the engines efficiency.
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby Gotenks64 » Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:18 am

TrackStarGT wrote:glad you found the leak, also, i would take care of that oil pressure problem. Was that measured with an accurate gauge? that is just enough pressure to oil the engine at idle. An engine can run without oil for a long time, especially one that is well broken in. Watch some youtube videos on it. So, saying that, the point Im trying to make, is that when your motor is running on 3-4 psi you could be having some serious wear going on without any signs or symptoms. Then all the sudden you have some serious head wear and related issues or a spun bearing. The thing is with these KAs with turbos, cooling and oiling become WAAAAAYYYY more important. So, please look into that issue so you keep that KA24DET healthy. ;)

Aslo, running a more viscous oil is not the way to effectively raise oil pressure. you want more flow from an increase in pressure, not just an increase in pressure. If you are not running the manufacturers recommened oil and do not have sufficient oil pressure, increasing viscosity will not fix your problem and could actually make it worse. The increase in the thickness of the oil can and will put more strain and resistance on the oil pump which is directly driven by crank shaft and there for resistance and strain on the engine as a whole, as well as decreasing the engines efficiency.



I am picking up the welding sticks for the guy today so he can hopefully fix it. I am hoping this seals it all up and probably would explain why I run so rich up top. I have a prosport gauage with the sending unit they supplied. I am under the assumption it is correct. I knew that the turbo would increase my oil temps thus, I ran alittle thicker oil. What would be the best way to cure this issue? I am leaning towards an oil cooler. I don't want to runa heavier weight oil though, because I dont want to jack up my oil pump. Second question is it normal to find oil in the intake runners? Its a small amount but it is there. Its not black or burnt looking either.

I am suppose to get an exhaust welded up with a 12in flex pipe in the middle running to a mangaflow muffler on 19Sept, I really what to get this fixed so I can get this done. I still will be running open dump, but I am toren as too if I should route it into the exhaust.

I also have to heilcoil the first valve cover bolt on the right hand side, valve cover gasket is leaking ever so slightily. The machine shop must have over-torqued it.

I need a second rack and pinion to do a manual converstion on, the previous owner took all the PS lines out. So i'll need a bracket from an SOHC so remove my PS pump too. ITs nice weather out now, I really want to drive:(
Built Head w/ BC stage two 264/264 Cams
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Re: Gotenks64's ongoing build

Postby TrackStarGT » Sat Sep 13, 2014 5:26 am

There is a regulator on the oil pump itself. It is a nut on the end of a neck that extends downward at the oil pan/sump. That can be tightened or loosened, It can only be accessed with the oil pan mostly or completely off. I would check pressure with another gauge just to make sure before adjusting the regulator. I would run only slightly heavier oil than stock, which I believe is 5w-30. An oil cooler would be a very good option, especially if you want a reliable engine. Ever since I put a turbo on the 240, it has spent more time on jacks than on the road, just a point there. Im doing things differently myself so to have a reliable enigne as well. I will not be riding it as hard either, this time around.

Anyway, yeah it is very easy to over torque anything on an aluminum head especially as the threads get smaller which the valve cover and cam journal caps are the smallest threads on the head are what people usually end up stripping. torque specs are almost always measured in in/lbs which is a fractional force.
Daily Driver: 2010 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7 TRD
Project and DD: 1995 Nissan 240sx Frankenstein

I live and breathe physics, mechanics, motorsports!!

My build thread viewtopic.php?f=40&t=60602
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TrackStarGT
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