Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
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Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
ill have another update shortly. more pertaining to KA-T.org....
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- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Ive since parked the car in the garage for the winter and made the decision to start the 2nd major build of the car. since every time i bring up about wanting RHD, i always get the response, "just sell your car and buy a Silvia." OR "why drive RHD in the US" i think at this point in my build i have done too much work to the car (not in a sentimental way) to just give up/let go of this thing, ive had for 11 years and buy another just to put the same amount of work to make it this way again (shaved,tubs,ect,ect). plus i would have to find the right buyer and with todays s-chassis market, its hard to find someone that knows how to put a value on a car with the amount of time and effort into a (what i think is a proper) build it seems. plus it has turned into a piece of art for me and i dont really drive it all that often anyway and i want to make it mine by doing things that make it unique.
So, onto what is happening now!!!
Put the car up in the air.
Wheels off
After thinking a bit, this is when i decided that it is time to start the next major part of the build.
Rear subframe out with the help of the lovely, helpful, handy fiance'
I went under the car thinking there was a bunch of rust, but to my surprise just a couple spots are just surface rusted and the fuel lines are rotted...
My mom got me an engine stand for my birthday so i put it together and started digging through my back-ups in the garage (wich is why i am making this post about the build)
TIME FOR A TURBO BUILD!!!!!
The next thing to do is pull the interior, front end apart, and engine/trans out.
i am going to start with the rear end build first then get to the engine and prep for a RHD firewall swap when i pull the engine for the build.
Engine is going to be a mild 300~400hp build when done. (balanced crankshaft with and rods/pistons)
High mount intercooler setup to keep the bay clean and quick throttle response.
Since i have a TIG welder, ill build my own Manifold.
i see turbo stuff all the time but i am still new to the parts needed for the build. (hence why im on KA-t.org...... )
Just browsing the net, ill probably get the TOMEI kit.
So, onto what is happening now!!!
Put the car up in the air.
Wheels off
After thinking a bit, this is when i decided that it is time to start the next major part of the build.
Rear subframe out with the help of the lovely, helpful, handy fiance'
I went under the car thinking there was a bunch of rust, but to my surprise just a couple spots are just surface rusted and the fuel lines are rotted...
My mom got me an engine stand for my birthday so i put it together and started digging through my back-ups in the garage (wich is why i am making this post about the build)
TIME FOR A TURBO BUILD!!!!!
The next thing to do is pull the interior, front end apart, and engine/trans out.
i am going to start with the rear end build first then get to the engine and prep for a RHD firewall swap when i pull the engine for the build.
Engine is going to be a mild 300~400hp build when done. (balanced crankshaft with and rods/pistons)
High mount intercooler setup to keep the bay clean and quick throttle response.
Since i have a TIG welder, ill build my own Manifold.
i see turbo stuff all the time but i am still new to the parts needed for the build. (hence why im on KA-t.org...... )
Just browsing the net, ill probably get the TOMEI kit.
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Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
350hp and good response is great to drive
KA24E-T 06/06 to 10/09 (T25 then H1C Holset) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Good to see diy'ers still here. Keep it up.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Any pictures where that bracket mounts to the rad support? Is that the two tabs on the lower radiator support? Might have to make some that snake under my intercooler for my bomex lip...
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
thanks guys! I hope to have this engine build going by the end of may. i am going to register for the carlisle show and hope to have the car in Building T for the Nissan 240sx Display
-Tuzzio the bracket just mounts to the holes in the plastic bumper. since i dont have the tabs on the core support i used the plastic bumper
**UPDATE**
After spending some time disassembling the engine block, it all looks ok and ill be making a electrolysis tank and dunking the block for a day or so, to clean the surface rust and clean all the thread holes and also the cooling system (freeze plugs ect ect).
After taking the block apart I decided to take apart the Subframe. started with the arms and Diff, then moved onto the subframe bushings.
started with the fire method (Didn't work!!) :rant2:
Waste of Time :fawk2:
Ended up cutting out the rubber inner section and cutting a slit in the sleeves, trying my best to not cut into the subframe... :
Since we've had a couple days of lovely 40* plus weather here in PA. :tweak: I started by cleaning up the holes where the bushings go with a wire wheel on a drill, and tried it (with a cup wheel) on the rest to clean it up but it didnt work that well. So I decided to get the Sand blaster out and go to town.
Before
After
Just using play sand for now. Might swing by Tractor Supply and grab a bag or 2 of fine blasting sand to run through as a finish before painting.
Also, I moved an old boiler from my basement to the garage to use as a wood stove. It Had to be taken apart to move it in 4 sections to the garage (**Thanks BurnsAuto**).... I re-assembled it and set it in its place.
might get to use it this winter!!
Back side
Front side
-Tuzzio the bracket just mounts to the holes in the plastic bumper. since i dont have the tabs on the core support i used the plastic bumper
**UPDATE**
After spending some time disassembling the engine block, it all looks ok and ill be making a electrolysis tank and dunking the block for a day or so, to clean the surface rust and clean all the thread holes and also the cooling system (freeze plugs ect ect).
After taking the block apart I decided to take apart the Subframe. started with the arms and Diff, then moved onto the subframe bushings.
started with the fire method (Didn't work!!) :rant2:
Waste of Time :fawk2:
Ended up cutting out the rubber inner section and cutting a slit in the sleeves, trying my best to not cut into the subframe... :
Since we've had a couple days of lovely 40* plus weather here in PA. :tweak: I started by cleaning up the holes where the bushings go with a wire wheel on a drill, and tried it (with a cup wheel) on the rest to clean it up but it didnt work that well. So I decided to get the Sand blaster out and go to town.
Before
After
Just using play sand for now. Might swing by Tractor Supply and grab a bag or 2 of fine blasting sand to run through as a finish before painting.
Also, I moved an old boiler from my basement to the garage to use as a wood stove. It Had to be taken apart to move it in 4 sections to the garage (**Thanks BurnsAuto**).... I re-assembled it and set it in its place.
might get to use it this winter!!
Back side
Front side
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Can you snag me some pictures? I'm having a potato of a moment trying to visualize it.
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
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- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
So, onto the stove. Its all in and plumbed for fire. So, I lit some papertowels and fire starter sticks and then laid a couple scrap white pine 2x2's on top with space in beween so it didn't smother it. There some was fire and it smoked like hell, :bite: So i got my hair dryer out and stuck it in the top chamber and it blew the smoke up the chimney. I think i'll build a platform and use the upper-half portion of the firebox and close/seal off the lower half of the firebox. and somehow seal the doors better. Theres just not enough heat to force itself up into the top section and out of the chimney.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I received the GKTech solid Subframe risers...
I heard installation is a little bit easier when you put them in the freezer and shrink them a tiny bit. So i did that and a couple days later when i was ready i pulled them out to install them.
When i was ready to paint the subframe. I wasnt sure on color. i wanted crazy colors then I wanted simple plain..... I cleaned up the subframe after sandblasting it a while ago.
I had to smooth a couple spots where it was damaged getting the old bushings out. So a file and a dremel did the trick...
Cleaned up the inside once more with the wire brush on a drill.
Used the air gun and blew out the rest of the sand and wiped off the surface, used a little acetone so it was semi clean.
I've had good results using this stuff from rustolem. I like the texture and it creates a hard shell (not rubbery) that's not too rough and thick towards what its sprayed on. My front wheel tubs were coated in 2014 and are still in great shape.
1st coat.
Pulled out the big fan, and opend a garage door.
Sitting in the sun, drying.
Next day, i decided to put the bushings in. Dropped a piece of cardboard on the floor, and the subframe, the n ran the wire brush through each one to clear out any overspray.
My great uncle made me use this stuff pretty much on every bolt I ever put back into place after wire brush/wire wheeling it. Only downside is it gets on everything (even if your careful! :keke: ) Oh, used as a lubricant too, it was a little tight!! :tardrim:
Frozen Subframe bushings served up!
Couple of good whacks with a rubber mallet and the first one is in.
Fancy close-up!
2 down! 2 to go!
The other 2 needed a little more tap from a mini sledge with wood on top to protect the anodizing finish. Otherwise they went in and was a tight fit..
ALL IN!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I received the GKTech solid Subframe risers...
I heard installation is a little bit easier when you put them in the freezer and shrink them a tiny bit. So i did that and a couple days later when i was ready i pulled them out to install them.
When i was ready to paint the subframe. I wasnt sure on color. i wanted crazy colors then I wanted simple plain..... I cleaned up the subframe after sandblasting it a while ago.
I had to smooth a couple spots where it was damaged getting the old bushings out. So a file and a dremel did the trick...
Cleaned up the inside once more with the wire brush on a drill.
Used the air gun and blew out the rest of the sand and wiped off the surface, used a little acetone so it was semi clean.
I've had good results using this stuff from rustolem. I like the texture and it creates a hard shell (not rubbery) that's not too rough and thick towards what its sprayed on. My front wheel tubs were coated in 2014 and are still in great shape.
1st coat.
Pulled out the big fan, and opend a garage door.
Sitting in the sun, drying.
Next day, i decided to put the bushings in. Dropped a piece of cardboard on the floor, and the subframe, the n ran the wire brush through each one to clear out any overspray.
My great uncle made me use this stuff pretty much on every bolt I ever put back into place after wire brush/wire wheeling it. Only downside is it gets on everything (even if your careful! :keke: ) Oh, used as a lubricant too, it was a little tight!! :tardrim:
Frozen Subframe bushings served up!
Couple of good whacks with a rubber mallet and the first one is in.
Fancy close-up!
2 down! 2 to go!
The other 2 needed a little more tap from a mini sledge with wood on top to protect the anodizing finish. Otherwise they went in and was a tight fit..
ALL IN!
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
The underside is a little dirty and has surface rust but not as much as i thought would be there. All i'm going to get is some AN fittings and flare the end of the line by the frame make some small lines from there to the tank. replace the other rubber line to the check-valve/ re-route the vent line to the back with a breather filter on it. While everything is out, i'll undercoat the rear of the car.
Here's the rust :ugh:
I've started by cleaning the posts for the subframe and priming them. ill put some ANTI-Seize on them before the subframe goes in to help with corrosion.
I also cleaned up the threads on the subframe posts/nuts with a wire wheel and the a thread chaser kit.
The arms and diff!!! Got something special for them and the fiance' suggested it in her favorite color!
Need to clean them up and prep them. Plan on new bolts and nuts for the install.
The diff will be getting the same treatment as the arms.
So far i've chased the threads on the rear cover and the nuts too.
On days when the weather breaks a little and is warmer i'll be in the garage.
Here's the rust :ugh:
I've started by cleaning the posts for the subframe and priming them. ill put some ANTI-Seize on them before the subframe goes in to help with corrosion.
I also cleaned up the threads on the subframe posts/nuts with a wire wheel and the a thread chaser kit.
The arms and diff!!! Got something special for them and the fiance' suggested it in her favorite color!
Need to clean them up and prep them. Plan on new bolts and nuts for the install.
The diff will be getting the same treatment as the arms.
So far i've chased the threads on the rear cover and the nuts too.
On days when the weather breaks a little and is warmer i'll be in the garage.
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Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
great build, any more updates???
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
supersayianjim- i have made progress on other things but not KAT related...
The dogs let me out of the house and I made my way to the garage.
So I started in the trunk to disconnect the fuel pump wires and trunk seal plate.
I lowered the tank to the floor and labeled one of the lines to the front in a few spots.
One by one i disconnected the lines, starting with the vent line.
Drained any little bit of fuel into a junk container.
Moved the tank out of the way.
Removed the old vent check valve and trimmed the lines back a little bit(mostly just bent them back and forth after crimping them with side cutters, since they were rusted to hell )
Took the scrap pieces and cleaned them to good (enough) metal, to test my flaring tool.
So i used it on both ends
BUT!!!!!! One is flared where i only had the tube/pipe flush with the top of the tube/pipe holder. And the other is about a 1/16th-3/32nds from flush.
*The one on the right is the flush one, the left was poking out.
*The left one sits more flush it feels with the flare seat/cut BUT seems slightly thinner/maybe stretched out more?
*The right side seems to have a thicker flare cone but doesnt seat against the flare fitting 100% (maybe 85-90%)
***I guess my question is, will the thicker one crush a tiny bit onto the other fitting i bought and help create the seal, or should i flare them the "better fitting/ slightly thinner one" method?
I cut the tubes to length.
I put the tube flare nuts on.
i am waiting on these to arrive to flare and finish the fuel lines.
and i bought 15FT of 5/16 of the gates barricade mpi fuel injection hose.
i'll probably get the hose seperator clamps and anchor them along the frame rail/floor/trunk pan.
NEXT is under coating everything back there. then i'll work on the arms/diff before i re-assemble the subframe
The dogs let me out of the house and I made my way to the garage.
So I started in the trunk to disconnect the fuel pump wires and trunk seal plate.
I lowered the tank to the floor and labeled one of the lines to the front in a few spots.
One by one i disconnected the lines, starting with the vent line.
Drained any little bit of fuel into a junk container.
Moved the tank out of the way.
Removed the old vent check valve and trimmed the lines back a little bit(mostly just bent them back and forth after crimping them with side cutters, since they were rusted to hell )
Took the scrap pieces and cleaned them to good (enough) metal, to test my flaring tool.
So i used it on both ends
BUT!!!!!! One is flared where i only had the tube/pipe flush with the top of the tube/pipe holder. And the other is about a 1/16th-3/32nds from flush.
*The one on the right is the flush one, the left was poking out.
*The left one sits more flush it feels with the flare seat/cut BUT seems slightly thinner/maybe stretched out more?
*The right side seems to have a thicker flare cone but doesnt seat against the flare fitting 100% (maybe 85-90%)
***I guess my question is, will the thicker one crush a tiny bit onto the other fitting i bought and help create the seal, or should i flare them the "better fitting/ slightly thinner one" method?
I cut the tubes to length.
I put the tube flare nuts on.
i am waiting on these to arrive to flare and finish the fuel lines.
and i bought 15FT of 5/16 of the gates barricade mpi fuel injection hose.
i'll probably get the hose seperator clamps and anchor them along the frame rail/floor/trunk pan.
NEXT is under coating everything back there. then i'll work on the arms/diff before i re-assemble the subframe
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
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- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Since all the pictures under the car pretty much look the same/similar angle. It doesnt look like much of an update but here goes!
Before undercoat.
After undercoat. I used about 2-3 cans of undercoat.
Got my fittings, hose, and hose separators.
The line separators are 6an size.
What the end of the hardline will look like.
Started by cutting the lines and slipped some fuel hose over for the clamps and the tube nut flares.
Then the flare clamp.
Both Flared.
Nipples :keke:
Wrenches. (I asked myself why i'm taking a picture of wrenches while laying under a car, out loud, I thought I heard a voice answer....) :ugh:
Tighten them down.
Line Separators.
One line measured to tank, pushed on and clamped.
Both lines clamped and clamped to the tank.
After hooking the tank i put the other line separators on.
I ended up needing to re-flare the connection with a double flare as it leaked from the pressure. So after that was fixed, I fired the car up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_IeE3EACxQ
I have started on the subframe again and hope to have it back together soon! With Pictures!
Before undercoat.
After undercoat. I used about 2-3 cans of undercoat.
Got my fittings, hose, and hose separators.
The line separators are 6an size.
What the end of the hardline will look like.
Started by cutting the lines and slipped some fuel hose over for the clamps and the tube nut flares.
Then the flare clamp.
Both Flared.
Nipples :keke:
Wrenches. (I asked myself why i'm taking a picture of wrenches while laying under a car, out loud, I thought I heard a voice answer....) :ugh:
Tighten them down.
Line Separators.
One line measured to tank, pushed on and clamped.
Both lines clamped and clamped to the tank.
After hooking the tank i put the other line separators on.
I ended up needing to re-flare the connection with a double flare as it leaked from the pressure. So after that was fixed, I fired the car up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_IeE3EACxQ
I have started on the subframe again and hope to have it back together soon! With Pictures!
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
After getting the car running it made me pretty motivated to start on the subframe.
I began taking it apart and doing one side at a time instead of all apart at once. At least for the knuckle and LCA.
i only took pics of one side pretty much, so repeat steps for the other side.
Brake stuff off.
Next was the axle nut.. The dewalt sadly didn't have the strength, so i used the air gun and it only took a couple "ugga-duggas" if thats the sound correlation..
Got the 36MM out.
Clamped it in the vise.
Loosened up and spun off the rest by hand.
Since the last time i had the axles out was for the 5-lug swap, i greased up the splines so for any future maintenance was easy and not rusted/corroded like a lot of the 25+ year old cars have become. So i didn't have to use a puller/press this time to get it out.
Kunckle/LCA/hub
Brought it back to the work space and started on removing the knuckle.
Hub first. Take 4 bolts out.
I'm sure everyone has their way, i left the bolts threaded in a few turns and tapped on them with a hammer till the hub came free from the knuckle.
Next was the Ball joint nut.
I found this fork tool in my hammer drawer and it worked perfect for separating the knuckle from the LCA.
Snap ring.
For anyone that wants to replace the REAR Lower Control Arm ball joint--- This MOOG ball joint was 12.70$ on Amazon. Part Number is K9633 it has a zerk fitting (grease fitting) for the ball joint.
I had to tap the hole for the included "self-tapping" zerk fitting. 1/4"-28 is the size.
I had a HELL of a time pressing on the rubber boot also.. :-/
This worked well on getting the old ball joint out.
I added a small piece of 1.5"I.D. exhaust pipe to keep the clamp on the ball joint shaft from slipping off.
Came out pretty easy. i tried the impacts and ended up using a 24" long-1/2" breaker bar.
Next was cleaning the dirt and grease off the arms for paint.
Let them dry for a little in the sun.
I began taking it apart and doing one side at a time instead of all apart at once. At least for the knuckle and LCA.
i only took pics of one side pretty much, so repeat steps for the other side.
Brake stuff off.
Next was the axle nut.. The dewalt sadly didn't have the strength, so i used the air gun and it only took a couple "ugga-duggas" if thats the sound correlation..
Got the 36MM out.
Clamped it in the vise.
Loosened up and spun off the rest by hand.
Since the last time i had the axles out was for the 5-lug swap, i greased up the splines so for any future maintenance was easy and not rusted/corroded like a lot of the 25+ year old cars have become. So i didn't have to use a puller/press this time to get it out.
Kunckle/LCA/hub
Brought it back to the work space and started on removing the knuckle.
Hub first. Take 4 bolts out.
I'm sure everyone has their way, i left the bolts threaded in a few turns and tapped on them with a hammer till the hub came free from the knuckle.
Next was the Ball joint nut.
I found this fork tool in my hammer drawer and it worked perfect for separating the knuckle from the LCA.
Snap ring.
For anyone that wants to replace the REAR Lower Control Arm ball joint--- This MOOG ball joint was 12.70$ on Amazon. Part Number is K9633 it has a zerk fitting (grease fitting) for the ball joint.
I had to tap the hole for the included "self-tapping" zerk fitting. 1/4"-28 is the size.
I had a HELL of a time pressing on the rubber boot also.. :-/
This worked well on getting the old ball joint out.
I added a small piece of 1.5"I.D. exhaust pipe to keep the clamp on the ball joint shaft from slipping off.
Came out pretty easy. i tried the impacts and ended up using a 24" long-1/2" breaker bar.
Next was cleaning the dirt and grease off the arms for paint.
Let them dry for a little in the sun.
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
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- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
cleaned the knuckle with a brush. It was greasy.
Decided on black for the lower control arm.
And Knuckle. But i sprayed glow in the dark paint over them and the subframe too!! :coolugh:
Pressed the ball joint in, starting with the impact and finished with the breaker bar.
snap ring and boot.
With the car tucked away from some over spray, i cleaned up and sprayed the arms with black paint as well.
I started on the differential by degreasing and using a wire brush. once that was done i left it to dry.
Put it on some blocks and took the bolts out holding the cover on.
made sure the fill/drain plugs were loosened.
Cracked open the cover.
Cover off for cleaning.
Scraping away the old gasket.
Drained the old fluids.
Gears look good. Didn't find any metal shavings on the drain plug magnet.
I used this to clean out the rest of the old fluid/clean mating surfaces and let dry afterwards.
Decided on black for the lower control arm.
And Knuckle. But i sprayed glow in the dark paint over them and the subframe too!! :coolugh:
Pressed the ball joint in, starting with the impact and finished with the breaker bar.
snap ring and boot.
With the car tucked away from some over spray, i cleaned up and sprayed the arms with black paint as well.
I started on the differential by degreasing and using a wire brush. once that was done i left it to dry.
Put it on some blocks and took the bolts out holding the cover on.
made sure the fill/drain plugs were loosened.
Cracked open the cover.
Cover off for cleaning.
Scraping away the old gasket.
Drained the old fluids.
Gears look good. Didn't find any metal shavings on the drain plug magnet.
I used this to clean out the rest of the old fluid/clean mating surfaces and let dry afterwards.
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Continued....
Scraped the gasket off the cover and cleaned it with parts cleaner.
The cover ended up in the sandblaster to get the rest of the gunk off.
Sprayed the Differential.
And the cover.
It was time for the magic!!! I had my Fiance' help me and she applied the glitter as we went through the magic trick! (much kudos to her!!! )
Decided the rear cover needed it too!
Filled the diff up with 1.375 quarts of fluid as per FSM.
When i bought new bolts for the rear cover, I had to get a couple longer and cut them since they were out of stock of the other size i needed.
Cleaned up the mating surface with acetone and spread some rtv then the fiber gaskest and another thin layer on the cover.
New bolts look nice!
Before re-assembly i hit all the bolt heads on the subframe on the wire wheel. So, i started with the knuckle/hub/LCA and bolted it all together to the subframe.
Scraped the gasket off the cover and cleaned it with parts cleaner.
The cover ended up in the sandblaster to get the rest of the gunk off.
Sprayed the Differential.
And the cover.
It was time for the magic!!! I had my Fiance' help me and she applied the glitter as we went through the magic trick! (much kudos to her!!! )
Decided the rear cover needed it too!
Filled the diff up with 1.375 quarts of fluid as per FSM.
When i bought new bolts for the rear cover, I had to get a couple longer and cut them since they were out of stock of the other size i needed.
Cleaned up the mating surface with acetone and spread some rtv then the fiber gaskest and another thin layer on the cover.
New bolts look nice!
Before re-assembly i hit all the bolt heads on the subframe on the wire wheel. So, i started with the knuckle/hub/LCA and bolted it all together to the subframe.
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace
- SuperOKs13
- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:42 am
Re: Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★
Nuts/Washers for the diff.
I had to grind a flat spot on a washer, and use it to make up the space for the cotter pin to match up with the castle nut hole when tightened.
Got out the Super UP! :coolugh:
After putting the rest of the ams on, it was time for the diff and axles.
Diff going in.
Axles.
Like i've said before, this ****.... use it. it gets on everything if you touch it..
Axle bolts.
Diff nuts.
All nuts are tight and ready to go.
Putting the Subframe Assembly in.
I ended up greasing the posts a tiny bit.
It took a little bit of hitting with a small sledge hammer while pressure applied to the subframe, it eased its way onto the posts while i tightened the nuts as i went.
I took it around the block in in my town (open header and no hood) and got 2 texts, one from my mom since i went by her house (scaring/startling a kid with a basketball as it popped and backfired going from 1st to 2nd gear ) and one from my neighbor a couple doors down from my place.
My dog Katsumi however, Not amused by the noise....
After being out and about, i checked all the bolts to see if they were all still tight. Put my passenger seat in and trunk trim. All is well and im ready to drive this thing this spring/summer!!!
DSC_7141 by Jimmy Acri II, on Flickr
I had to grind a flat spot on a washer, and use it to make up the space for the cotter pin to match up with the castle nut hole when tightened.
Got out the Super UP! :coolugh:
After putting the rest of the ams on, it was time for the diff and axles.
Diff going in.
Axles.
Like i've said before, this ****.... use it. it gets on everything if you touch it..
Axle bolts.
Diff nuts.
All nuts are tight and ready to go.
Putting the Subframe Assembly in.
I ended up greasing the posts a tiny bit.
It took a little bit of hitting with a small sledge hammer while pressure applied to the subframe, it eased its way onto the posts while i tightened the nuts as i went.
I took it around the block in in my town (open header and no hood) and got 2 texts, one from my mom since i went by her house (scaring/startling a kid with a basketball as it popped and backfired going from 1st to 2nd gear ) and one from my neighbor a couple doors down from my place.
My dog Katsumi however, Not amused by the noise....
After being out and about, i checked all the bolts to see if they were all still tight. Put my passenger seat in and trunk trim. All is well and im ready to drive this thing this spring/summer!!!
DSC_7141 by Jimmy Acri II, on Flickr
★ SuperOK! ★
Imagine all the People living life in peace
Imagine all the People living life in peace