Duron's $$$ at Work
- Greaser
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
That fuse box isnt upside down in the wheel well is it?
Also do a boost leak test. I have experienced some major leaks with those throttle bodies right through the shaft.
Also do a boost leak test. I have experienced some major leaks with those throttle bodies right through the shaft.
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
duncan351 wrote:Is there a nissan tps that work reverse without having to be modified?
Yes. Early 90's q45 tps works. That what I'm running on my ebay billet throttle body.
Billet PTE 6765 divided T4, Nismotronic, Speed density, Coil on plug conversion.
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
Yea, the fuse panel is upside down in front of the wheel well. My wheel wells still have the factory splash guards and I did drill the fuse box cover which is now the bottom so it any moisture gets in the box it can drain out. I have an EVAP leak smoke machine and have tested the system for boost leaks. Throttle body is sealed tight. I have heard about some of these aftermarket TB's leaking around the shaft before but fortunately mine is still good.
Greaser wrote:That fuse box isnt upside down in the wheel well is it?
Also do a boost leak test. I have experienced some major leaks with those throttle bodies right through the shaft.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
I probably overlooked it, but what clutch are you running?
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- Greaser
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
those relays dont have little holes drilled in them (and unprotected coppers and steels). see if you can flip it over in that well.
just a little peeve of mine after having to diag and fix customer cars that do "wire tucks yo"
did you spend the 2g's+ on that smoke machine or did you come up with some other solution. Until the prices for those overglorified stage fog machines come down, i'll stick to my shop air and soapy water.
just a little peeve of mine after having to diag and fix customer cars that do "wire tucks yo"
did you spend the 2g's+ on that smoke machine or did you come up with some other solution. Until the prices for those overglorified stage fog machines come down, i'll stick to my shop air and soapy water.
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
I have the baller 2G smoke machine. Works great for so many applications. Yea, most of these guys doing those wire tucks are rookies that know nothing about circuits. My was flawless and only had to lengthen 2 or 3 wires. That was it. Then simply secure the harness and reroute it were it doesn't rub on any sharp edges.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
FYI about the TPS sensor: viewtopic.php?f=40&t=54222&p=531057#p531057Alonso wrote:duncan351 wrote:Is there a nissan tps that work reverse without having to be modified?
Yes. Early 90's q45 tps works. That what I'm running on my ebay billet throttle body.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
Progress update:
So I lost my engine due to a head clamping problem. The cause of the entire problem was:
The water jackets all had cracks which of course made me loose clamping force @ 31.5 psi. This caused me to loose a freeze plug while on the highway. My water temps rose to 206-208 and I thought I lifted the head and tried to make to my shop not knowing I was actually loosing coolant while driving then it melted pistons.
So on to new build with a few new extras:
No more loosing Freeze plugs EVER AGAIN!!
Notice the Timeserts were installed deeper in the holes. This is critical to the water jackets not cracking.
I'll finish assembling the motor this week then add a coolant pressure sensor to my standalone then reinstall the motor.
Can't wait to get her back on the road to enjoy rest of the summer.
So I lost my engine due to a head clamping problem. The cause of the entire problem was:
The water jackets all had cracks which of course made me loose clamping force @ 31.5 psi. This caused me to loose a freeze plug while on the highway. My water temps rose to 206-208 and I thought I lifted the head and tried to make to my shop not knowing I was actually loosing coolant while driving then it melted pistons.
So on to new build with a few new extras:
No more loosing Freeze plugs EVER AGAIN!!
Notice the Timeserts were installed deeper in the holes. This is critical to the water jackets not cracking.
I'll finish assembling the motor this week then add a coolant pressure sensor to my standalone then reinstall the motor.
Can't wait to get her back on the road to enjoy rest of the summer.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
- Greaser
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
Those pistons were melted before that drive without coolant. Ill prove it later at work. There is a protective layer around the pistons either by the combustion gases or fuel vapor and detonation breaks that protective boundry and lets combustion heat torch the piston. Is the melted side on the intake?
Like ive tried to warn you from experience 150 hp per cyl is the limit for e85
Like ive tried to warn you from experience 150 hp per cyl is the limit for e85
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
I know what you're talking about but I don't think this was the case. No, the pistons melted on the sides where the freeze plug blew out. There is more to this story. I just don't have the time to type it all down but these pistons swelled and got scored and melted down due to driving too far with out enough coolant. I didn't know it and couldn't smell coolant either and it was 2am in the morning. I drove a good amount of miles without enough coolant not knowing it. Hence the reason I'm installing a coolant pressure sensor.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
- Greaser
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
boundary layer. Can you post some better pictures from further away? Thats a cool oil baffle plate. Custom or online find?
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
So everyone over 600hp on a ka has a ticking time bomb? That's on e85 you mean
Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
Did you drill the holes deeper in the block, or did you just use different time-serts?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
The cylinders 2,3 & 4 pistons all show damage right where the freeze plug popped out and lost all the coolant which is between cylinders 3 & 4. Piston #4 melted on the front side of the piston where the wrist pin is. Piston#3 melted on the rear side of the piston & Piston#2 the skirt on the side facing the back of the block scored a little too.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
Looking back @ your block on page 1, your time-serts appear flush with the block. I didn't notice that before. I'm using a time-sert install kit that puts them down below the deck on every one and I remember reading something about possible problems if you didn't do that.
I'm installing my fuel setup now and PHR fuel hat and I noticed that the wires sure are thin. Considering that the 485 pumps can pull 20A, they seem like they should be thicker. Also, there are only 7 wires. If you use a pair of wires for each pump, you're only left with 3 to wire up your fuel level sender, but the connector for the sender has 4 wires. How did you wire that up? I'm only planning to run one 485 pump for a while, so I have extra wires. So, it's not an issue yet, but I'm just curious.
I'm installing my fuel setup now and PHR fuel hat and I noticed that the wires sure are thin. Considering that the 485 pumps can pull 20A, they seem like they should be thicker. Also, there are only 7 wires. If you use a pair of wires for each pump, you're only left with 3 to wire up your fuel level sender, but the connector for the sender has 4 wires. How did you wire that up? I'm only planning to run one 485 pump for a while, so I have extra wires. So, it's not an issue yet, but I'm just curious.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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- Greaser
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
cham wrote:So everyone over 600hp on a ka has a ticking time bomb? That's on e85 you mean
everyone on a 4 cylinder over 600, 900 on a 6, and 12-1500 on an 8 is waiting for that perfect storm of heat and humidity. Sitting in traffic then doing a long pull through gears. Or that one elimination round where you're in the burnout box and waiting for the cars to stage in front of you and they have a staging war.
But it is just my opinion based on experience in tuning our shop drag car, and a couple customer cars over the years. Be VERY weary of what you hear, see, read, in life and on the internet. I deal with it on a daily basis. Customers wanting to post the highest or lowest graph to meet their story's needs. People will lie to you and themselves I see it everyday and shake my head.
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
Trust me when I tell you I believe you Derek. My plans are to tune the car to a certain number then turn the power down on the street.I can't complain about 600 hp for $2 per gallon. Anything else in will go to race has for higher power on the street.
As for the fuel pump wiring I both pumps share the same ground. I can do this because my 2nd pump doesn't run until a certain boost pressure then cuts off below a level. If you run both pumps constantly I wouldn't do that but there is no need to run two 400+Liter pumps constantly.
As for the fuel pump wiring I both pumps share the same ground. I can do this because my 2nd pump doesn't run until a certain boost pressure then cuts off below a level. If you run both pumps constantly I wouldn't do that but there is no need to run two 400+Liter pumps constantly.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
- Greaser
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
I never had a the "street car time" to try and get e85 not to knock. Every time i pulled timing out of the race cars, they just broke up/missfired which is indicative of .......too low a timing value.
Ethanol fuels are funny because they get to a point in timing where they just work and any deviation from that either misses or drops power (when you add timing). Nearly every car I tune thats e85 i lock the timing maps to 22 degrees and call it good.
Is there heat in the rods? The pictures look like there is. I'm starting to aggree with you though. What does the head look like? Exhaust valve seats? Exhaust valves? A meltdown like that from long driving with no temperature control would extend to the rods, the seats, the valves, the valve stems and seals.....
my efforts here are to try to correctly diagnose the problem and let you enjoy a build for 5 years before having to go through it again.
Ethanol fuels are funny because they get to a point in timing where they just work and any deviation from that either misses or drops power (when you add timing). Nearly every car I tune thats e85 i lock the timing maps to 22 degrees and call it good.
Is there heat in the rods? The pictures look like there is. I'm starting to aggree with you though. What does the head look like? Exhaust valve seats? Exhaust valves? A meltdown like that from long driving with no temperature control would extend to the rods, the seats, the valves, the valve stems and seals.....
my efforts here are to try to correctly diagnose the problem and let you enjoy a build for 5 years before having to go through it again.
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Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
The back two rods aren't reusable due to heat. One is complete F**&^ Up. Bent and twisted a little. The other had discolor at the wrist pin which means the rod is compromised. There was aluminum EVERYWHERE in the head and valves. Cleaned it all out and straighten the head then resurfaced with valve job and new seals. I reviewed my logs from that night when I made my runs and confirmed no knock what so ever at 31.5 psi. Which I shouldn't have. I only had the timing at 14* before and at peak tq. I'm being conservative with timing at that boost level and just make up for power with boost. But honestly, like I said in previous post. I will make my number on the dyno then turn the car down on the street and enjoy myself with the car.
Thanks alot for your contribution and your help man. How are you doing up there anyway? I saw on the news the flooding going on but didn't know how close you are to that situation.
Thanks alot for your contribution and your help man. How are you doing up there anyway? I saw on the news the flooding going on but didn't know how close you are to that situation.
Greaser wrote:I never had a the "street car time" to try and get e85 not to knock. Every time i pulled timing out of the race cars, they just broke up/missfired which is indicative of .......too low a timing value.
Ethanol fuels are funny because they get to a point in timing where they just work and any deviation from that either misses or drops power (when you add timing). Nearly every car I tune thats e85 i lock the timing maps to 22 degrees and call it good.
Is there heat in the rods? The pictures look like there is. I'm starting to aggree with you though. What does the head look like? Exhaust valve seats? Exhaust valves? A meltdown like that from long driving with no temperature control would extend to the rods, the seats, the valves, the valve stems and seals.....
my efforts here are to try to correctly diagnose the problem and let you enjoy a build for 5 years before having to go through it again.
843whp @ 40psi
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
761/596 Tq 33psi 6766
http://www.enginerebuild.net
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"
Re: Duron's $$$ at Work
That's about what I was thinking. Considering that it seems designed for very high power setups, it just seemed weird that they are relatively thin gauge wire and short by one wire. If I go to dual pumps, I'll either do what you did, or maybe share a ground for the 2nd pump with the fuel level sender.duncan351 wrote:As for the fuel pump wiring I both pumps share the same ground. I can do this because my 2nd pump doesn't run until a certain boost pressure then cuts off below a level. If you run both pumps constantly I wouldn't do that but there is no need to run two 400+Liter pumps constantly.
I'm glad we still have a few people like yourself on here really pushing the limits of these motors. Keep up the good work!
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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