My ****

This is for all those PICTURE THREADS ONLY. Motor installs, product writeups, showing off your car, put the thread in here.
mewantkouki
Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
Posts: 268
Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2007 5:46 pm
Location: Orlando, Fl

Re: My ****

Post by mewantkouki »

The upper one had a spring in it. I felt resistance when I pressed the pad. The lower tensioner didn't come with a spring. I noticed it used a spring after I removed the stock one. Both of my front covers are installed already. Is it necessary, as in I need to remove them and put the spring in? :angry-teeth:
adamky
SuperMod
Posts: 3511
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 6:40 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

It really doesnt apply a significant amount of tension. As long as you got your tensioner good and snug and put some thread locker on the set screw, I'm sure it will be fine.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Image
User avatar
Greaser
Master of Knowledge
Posts: 589
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:24 am
Location: chesapeake VA
Contact:

Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

Honestly i'm sorry you had some concerns and questions with the product. I found out why you didn't get a lower spring. It wouldn't fit around the adjuster on the lower tensioner.

If you are at all concerned even after I say you'll be fine without it, I will chuck another adjuster up in the lathe and turn it until the spring fits and ship it out to you.

The adjuster is there to protect you in the chance that :

the check ball in a factory tensioner fails or has a debris leak
or
the factory freeze plug in the tensioner has been popped out
or
you have ferrera or other full race valve springs and hit a limiter or back spin the engine.

The spring really only applies tension until the engine builds oil pressure. After that the oil pressure on the back of the piston tensions the chain until an event happens that chain tension overcomes oil pressure and thats when the adjuster saves you from bending intake valves. And the lower spring isn't even that important as its not "seeing" valve opening and closing events.

Truthfully i don't know how you guys are installing them with the cylinder head on and then installing the front covers.

I had to drill a hole in both front covers and then tap in a plug so i could have access to set the tensioners preload after all the covers were installed. The ka just begs to ding up the headgasket trying to put the lower cover on after the head is torqued.
adamky
SuperMod
Posts: 3511
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 6:40 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

Greaser wrote:I had to drill a hole in both front covers and then tap in a plug so i could have access to set the tensioners preload after all the covers were installed. The ka just begs to ding up the headgasket trying to put the lower cover on after the head is torqued.
That's what I would have done but that never occurred to me. I wish I would have seen it mentioned before now.


Anywho, what's the deal on the S13? Have you gotten a chance to mess with it lately?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Image
User avatar
Greaser
Master of Knowledge
Posts: 589
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:24 am
Location: chesapeake VA
Contact:

Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

Heading to a hydraulic service shop to look for some ptfe orings for forward and high clutch hubs. I just cannot get the slash cut rings that are supposed to go there to seal correctly. Look up air checking automatic clutch pistons and youll see wahat im talking about
User avatar
Greaser
Master of Knowledge
Posts: 589
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:24 am
Location: chesapeake VA
Contact:

Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

Got the hydraulic shop to find me o-rings in butyl rubber that could be bench air tested. 100% air tight seal on both clutch pistons (forward and high which is 1st and 3rd. 2nd and 4th are controlled by a whole other servo piston that is not going through a hub that has to rotate.

Ordering equivalent sized rings to replace the butyl rubber with PTFE or teflon orings. They will chemically hold up to the fluid as well as the temperature. Surface hardness is very hard and very resistant to abrasion. Pretty much the ideal material choice but it will be a continuous seal instead of "slash cut" or "curfed" rings.

mcmaster.com is the ****.
adamky
SuperMod
Posts: 3511
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 6:40 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

I found a great pdf on rebuilding automatic transmissions. Reading through it now.
http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781605252032_ch17.pdf

McMaster is awesome. I've never purchased anything from them that wasn't quality stuff.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Image
User avatar
trk240sx
240sx Wannabe
Posts: 131
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:32 am
Location: Greenville, Virginia

Re: My ****

Post by trk240sx »

Looking at your e-brake setup, I have to worry about your leg! Having done some dirt track racing before, I will tell you that if you smack the wall, or whatever,the bolt holding that lever is going to ruin your day!
User avatar
Greaser
Master of Knowledge
Posts: 589
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:24 am
Location: chesapeake VA
Contact:

Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

You know how i can tell you didnt read the post or watch any of the videos EXPLAINING what that handle is and does is because you think its a handbrake and it actually a sequential shifter for my automatic transmission. Also those "bolts" are below my kneecap by about 4 inches so if my kneecap is down there im having a bad day anyway. But thanks for the concern im good.
Post Reply