My ****

This is for all those PICTURE THREADS ONLY. Motor installs, product writeups, showing off your car, put the thread in here.
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Greaser
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My ****

Post by Greaser »

what up peeps

So I'm gonna share with you guys some of the tech that i've put into this test bed of an S13 chassis. It is a daily driver and I use it to test product development, tuning ideas and strategies. I bought the car a couple years ago completely stock with just the paint job like this from a customer of ours. It immediately went on the lift and the car got some suspension work done and 5 lug and some wheels. I picked up some trick megan racing coilovers SPEC-RS coilovers, a bunch of spherical bearings and some solid subframe mounts and went to town. The spec-rs megans are a remote resevoir dampening adjustment on rebound and compression. They are the **** and I love them. The other aspect of what makes this car ride and handle like it does is the spherical bearings. I removed all the factory rubber bushings and installed PTFE lined sphericals in the uprights, the lower control arms in the rear and put rod ends on the front lowers. Night and day difference on suspension feel and feedback. Put my race seat in, some hawk hp+ brake pads and steering wheel and took the car out to some track events on some hoosier slicks on evo 8 rims. 130hp stock automatic 240 was passing 600hp twin turboed 350z's and other high hp cars. No-one believed it was a stock car or even an auto. The car was soooo fast in the corners and under braking. I beat the **** out of the car and all it did was amaze me at how well it was performing for such a simple setup.

I think I decided to put the AEM ems in this car to get the stock auto to work with the aem. Got the AEM controlling the transmissions shift solenoids, lockup, overrun, and line pressure. Car drove around like this for a couple years all stock till i got sick of putting oil in it all the time cuz it burned it so fast. Car started smoking at stoplights and i said ***** it, i'm putting in the ITB motor i have laying in the garage. Got that running but wasnt making the power i wanted after it was all said and done so i pulled the itb setup off it and sold it. Some where in there I upgraded to the series 2 ems and burned it up the first night haha. Fixed the trace i burned and tuned the car and the trans.

I think this was like 3 years ago that I got to a point where almost every car i was tuning at the shop was very high hp on pump gas and i was sick of being worried about how long the cars lived after tuning. So i decided to put a small turbo on my stock piston KA and make it live for a year. Anyone running a T25 or small T3 on a stock piston ka knows how easy it is to break the ring lands cuz theyve done it 3 times or had friends go through motor after motor. This was the start of knock detection era and general data collection and analysis snowball. I got my hands on 2 RB25motorsets through the shop we had customers doing swaps, stole the turbo's as they were upgrading. Modded one of those ebay T25 manifolds (thats on the car to this day on the current setup) to a t3 flange, first setup was non intercooled and that lasted a day. 200degree air temps are never a good thing for pump gas and stock pistons. So I mounted up an evo8 intercooler (they are the ****!) and ran stock boost through stock exhaust and made 180whp for a whole year. Learned alot about detonation detection and correction and how to make a motor live, the trans.....well not so much. The 1-2 shift started to take longer and longer until the point came where i saw shift times of 2.5 seconds and made a decision to open up the trans and put in a shift kit. Never had one open, had no idea how they worked but knew I had to learn. Installing that shift kit really was a huge learning step for me in respect to the internals of an auto trans. I had a spare trans that was the intended victim for the install, and i had the trans coming out of the car. I could tear down the one that came out to see what failed and have it as a better visual aid in tearing down and putting back together the trans that would go in the car. Thank god i did it that way, i remember having to pull it apart 3 times before it went back together right. As I type this right now, my trans just failed yesterday so i have to go through it again I think it lasted 2 years and I beat the **** out of it. When they fail, they dont give you any warning. One day youre going to work and it shifts funny once. You get in it to drive home and theres no line pressure and its whinning like a cat dying. I'm pretty sure the stock clutches are worn and clogged the filter. They werent even new stock clutches, whatever was in the spare trans looked good and i threw it together.

250psi of line pressure and drilled out seperator plates and accumlator deletes make this trans shift like an R35 GTR. I shifts hard and it shifts fast. The drilled separator plates just allow higher volume of fluid to flow through the valve body and the accumlator deletes get rid of the cushion and time delay of the stock trans. The shift solenoids fill up the accumulator pistons first and then feed the clutches. So they act as pressure damper's/delays.

Decided after that year to put on an exhaust and turn it up. Thats when the first turbo blew up. Made 230 i think and broke the turbine wheel in multiple places. Second turbo lasted until i came across a deal on a built engine i assembled 7 years ago for a previous customer.

So a year ago i get a call from a friend that he's selling his backup chassis and built 50trim t3 ka'ed motorset. Its a simple piston rod motor i built for him several years ago. He beat it up and wrecked the car years ago and it sat since then. I buy the car and the throw the motor and t3 50trim on the same manifold i already have modded for the rb turbo. Where am i gonna put the wastegate? Everwhere i have access to put it i know its gonna creep and cause problems. This starts another chapter of the technology snowball. I decide to cut a hole in turbine housing near the flange and weld up some tubing parallel to exhaust flow and put the wastegate near the steering rack and marry it back into the exhaust. Its the **** and holds boost great. Put it on the dyno and its pushing coolant under boost. ***** me.

Motor comes out and i assess damage/issues. Decided to machine the block/head that came out of the car and scrap the block head and i just installed. I think one of the walls looked cracked and i didnt want to have to worry about it. So now i'm building an engine for my daily driver someplace i didnt intend to be. I said ***** it if i'm doin a built motor i want this thing to last 10 years so i'm throwing every sensor and datalogger at it. So i buy:
oil cooler
AEM AQ-1 datalogger
AEM 4 channel o2 controller w/ backpressure kit
AEM 4 channel EGT controller
line pressure sensor
trans temp sensor
oil pressure sensor
oil temp sensor
fuel pressure sensor
engine crankcase pressure sensor
coolant pressure

I port the head, using my raised exhaust port technique and normal intake technique. Decide to keep stock cam for now for fuel mileage.

Mod the exhaust manifold again for the 02's and egt's. Convert to COP with Vq35 coils. Get it all in the car last xmas and tuned up on dyno makes 240hp at the limit of 93octane.

Decide to implement the vacuum tank system from my ITB car onto this one. Decide to put a 4 point cage in the car and mount the logger and tank to it.

Decide to install 2 stages of Nitrous. A 50 shot for the street and a 100 shot for the track. How i use it i wont say as its kinda secret and took me a while to learn how to make best use of it.

Decide to make the sequential shifter project a reality. Spend 3 months researching and building a circuit and the result is the videos you see.

Decide to take it to an all day test and tune at a local track. Put 110 octane in it, tune it....it made 405hp @22psi, bolt up our spare 28" radials and setup the 2 stages which turned out to be larger than i calculated and results were 80 for small and 180 for big. The radials fit my car better than they do our s14. S13's have bigger wells than 14's. who woulda thunk it.

Towed the car to the track, tech in. Setup first test pass target 15psi no converter lockup and small shot only.
11.88@118 1.7 60ft
2nd pass target 22psi and converter lockup and big shot.
11.88@124 1.7 60ft
The car left in 2nd. I dont know how or why but i didnt shift it back into 1st on this pass and you would laugh if you saw the logs. 1300rpm, converter locked up shooting a 180shot in 2nd gear going 5mph. Pegged the knock sensor on all 4cylinders at 5 volts. Something i've NEVER seen on this car. It should have blown the ***** up. But we checked coolant pressure and the headgasket is still intact. I dont know how but we're still good. Decide to back up that pass's targets and run

11.44@120 1.59 60ft
I raced a 2012 BMW M6 it did a 11.45@120. Tree'ing and beating a $100k plus car is a little rewarding.

So me and my boss are like, lets get kicked out....put this bi*ch in the 10's today! Rules dictate anything faster than a 11.50 need a 5 point cage, 5 point harness, and fire jacket. None of which i had that day other than the 4 point cage which i can pass off as a 5 point if they dont stick their head in the car. He talks me into shooting the 2nd stage of nitrous during the pass. Not all the way through just to get it over the midrange hump where the car feels slow. Everyone has that asshole friend that says turn it up@!!!! he was that friend that day, and for some reason i listed to him and made the changes. As i'm lining up to the burnout box an official walks up and says SLOW IT DOWN, you dont have the safety equipment. *****. Tuneup is already installed sorry hahha What pulls up in the lane next to me is a 2013 Nissan GTR. We had talked to him earlier that day and its got a shep trans in it and an AMS 100 octane tune, intercooler upgrade and some other odd/ends. but stock turbos. I'm like, oh ***** its on.


11.01@124 1.59 60ft
I tree him and his car disappears out of my peripheral and doesnt return until the 1000ft mark. Car leaves hard for what it is, a stock 2200rpm converter and stock transmission. I can feel the 2nd stage turning on and off in 2nd and 3rd and decided to stay in it since i'm getting kicked out anyway. With a little tuning i can make that 2nd stage seamless. You can see it in the video too. kinda funny.

Put the car on the trailer and head home.

Decide to install dual fuel system and fab up 3 gallon tank for 110 octane on its own dedicated system pump, lines, injectors and have the aem controll both systems.

Got in the car yesterday to install some of the stuff and the trans problem is realized and thats where we're at right now.


Please enjoy the below pictures and videos. Took me alot of time editing them. Im sure i've forgotten some details since theres so many on this **** of a car.

Videos:
Vac tank explanation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AywraCmuZgs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6nGc8dfY_w

Sequential-Shifter explanation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74zh_bP_RPg

Driving in car
https://youtu.be/HbjuaXlD-ck

Outside 11.01@124
https://youtu.be/lpGKDz3S5QM

11.01@124 in car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7ehjdXqrzs

Shameless plug for our shop:

wheelie
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEdDuRpgFAY

8.26@166 in car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXO8b9rhsA4



Pics:
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Last edited by Greaser on Wed Dec 23, 2015 8:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
adamky
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

Wudup OG? That's some ****ing bad a** **** right there. Lots of **** going on in that little car with all of the **** sensors and ****ing monitoring. Just kidding with ya... getting owned by the net nanny software which doesn't like certain 4 letter words. :mrgreen:

Low 11's is very impressive for a 400hp car on a stock auto. Sucks about the trans, but it sounds like you weren't too surprised that it crapped out on you.
I saw the air tank PCV videos show up in my YouTube subscription feed earlier today. I'm definitely copying that setup. I'm excited to get it all working on the new motor.

I just watched the video with the data logged info overlaid on your little test drive. I'm a data nerd and love stuff like that. I couldn't hear what you were saying through the majority of the video but watching the gauge displays was pretty mesmerizing
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

buy an aem ems or a aem datalogger or any datalogger for that matter. They really are the ****.

Join the club

Pulling trans later this week pictures to follow.
adamky
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

I actually have a series 1 AEM but will not be installing it just yet due to time constraints and lack of familiarity with it. I know the series 2 is significantly better, so I'd love to ditch the series 1 and go that route, but there's no telling now if that will ever be in the budget or not.

While doing some reading on crank case vacuum setups, I saw some mention of too much vacuum actually lowering oil pressure. Have you ever noticed any changes to oil pressure when running your crank case vacuum setup?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

adamky wrote:I actually have a series 1 AEM but will not be installing it just yet due to time constraints and lack of familiarity with it. I know the series 2 is significantly better, so I'd love to ditch the series 1 and go that route, but there's no telling now if that will ever be in the budget or not.

While doing some reading on crank case vacuum setups, I saw some mention of too much vacuum actually lowering oil pressure. Have you ever noticed any changes to oil pressure when running your crank case vacuum setup?

yes but you have to remember that most oil pressure sensors are not inside the crankcase under vacuum so of course they are going to read "low"

My car idles at .7psi of oil pressure. Its been like that for a whole year. But the pressure transducer is not showing "absolute" pressure as it is not under vacuum itself.

The other way to think about it is say i put 15psi of air pressure on the crankcase at idle. Would you expect to see and oil "pressure" increase. An INDICATED increase but actual vs the pumps atmospheric pressure no. That airpressure is pushing the oil back into the crankshaft as much as its pushing it into the pump inlet.

Same theory with fuel pressure regulators. You think at idle your fuel pressure drops? as indicated externally it does but at the injector it doesnt as theres 12" of vacuum on the end of the injector sucking out fuel.

anyone saying anything about too much vacuum is spreading fears and myths. the oil is getting sucked out of the passages as much as its getting sucked out of the pump inlet. Its alllllll relative.



savvy?
adamky
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

Yes, that makes perfect sense. The fuel pressure regulator was a good example. So, when you say that you only see .7 psi of oil pressure at idle, you would probably see around 10-11 psi on the gauge without the crank vacuum, correct? I believe that 1 psi is about equal to 2 in HG. So, 20in HG at idle will make oil pressure appear to be about 10 psi lower?

I was trying to understand it earlier and I couldn't work out in my mind why oil pressure would be any lower given that the vacuum would be pulling equally on both sides (feed and pickup) of the oiling system. I'm glad that I asked because I would have freaked out if I started my motor after the rebuild and it read ~1 psi! I'll have to remember to have the PCV setup temporarily disconnected for the first start just to make sure I'm seeing "acceptable" oil pressure.
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

Aem has oil pressure protect strategies that i use! Haha. Yes i remember unhooking the vacuum tank the first time and checking oil pressure was good. But after reviewing logs, just because you have pressure at idle dont expect it to be there in the middle of hard accel, decel or cornering.


This is why you need a logger and logging all the time and reviewing logs. On my launches my oil pressure drops to 30psi and comes back middle of the way through 2nd. Anything more than .6g's and oil comes out of the oil sump and to the back of the motor.

Our 2j drag car does the same thing, we built more baffles in the sump and it helps. So we overfill it to handle the 2.6g's it experiences on the launch and through the 60ft.
Last edited by Greaser on Thu Dec 24, 2015 10:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
solo227
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Re: My ****

Post by solo227 »

what program, camera and sensors are you using to record your videos?
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

solo227 wrote:what program, camera and sensors are you using to record your videos?

old used cell phones. I think its an HTC S5. Used the front facing camera ziptied up to my cage. Program used to edit is video pad editor. Data overlay program is AEMDATA. Have to have other AEM products recording the data in order to overlay it.

The process to overlay data is long, and alot of decoding encoding to various formats. I stopped messing with Windows Movie Maker because of all the various video formats and codecs i had to mess with. Video pad editor could do all of them.
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

Pulled the trans tonight.

Fluid still blue with a touch of metal pearl look to it. Normal in my opinion.

Pulled pan to inspect bottom of pan, not a whole lot of indicators to a problem. Some more metal but nothing big....nothing more than looking like a 1st or 2nd oil change on a freshly built motor.

Then looked at the filter.
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So the pump was making some noise and the pressure gauge was showing very little pressure after about 30 seconds of running. The filter was sucking up this clutch debris and getting clogged.

Inspected all clutches (theres like 5 of them with about 6 clutches in each one) and they all looked like they did when i assembled the trans 2 years ago. So where did this clutch material come from?

The lockup clutch. About a year ago I started locking up the converter during full throttle use. I was monitoring very closely converter slip math channels. Thats a channel that compares driveshaft speed to engine speed referenced to gear ratio. It should always be at 0% or very close during lockup operation. Unlocked i see about 10-11% slip(full throttle high rpm). What I havent looked at yet is the data from the day i went racing. I'll have to review those logs to see if there was a failure then or what.

So I drilled a hole in the bottom of the torque converter to drain it and filtered it and took some pics.
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So tomarrow i'm chucking up the converter in the lathe and i'm gonna cut it apart and show you guys the pics when i get them.

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adamky
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

That looks like what you would hope to see if you were panning for gold! I know almost nothing about automatics transmissions, so looking forward to some tear down pics.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

Cut the converter apart tonight instead of waiting. Def delaminated the clutch lining in the lockup.

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scoobydo
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Re: My ****

Post by scoobydo »

Fantastic information and love the overlay stuff.
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240sx-venezuela
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Re: My ****

Post by 240sx-venezuela »

Did you have to rework the valve cover to make those coilpacks fit?
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Greaser
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Post by Greaser »

yes, not a drop in. Machining of the lips around each spark plug hole with some boring of each hole, then drill and tap some dowel for 6mmx1.25 and then weld that to the valve cover.
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Re: My ****

Post by 240Life »

That wheelie plug....man...**** is bananas

What is the benefit to the vacuum tank system to the pcv? Shouldn't the crank case still have a need for circulation? (i watch the two videos and i think i understand how the system works) I am trying to figure out what action to take on my pcv valve as I am building my street car with the intent *hah* of reliability.

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Greaser
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Post by Greaser »

No air in the crankcase means no windage loses. Also evacuates more effectively all the blowby gasses and doesn't contaminate the oil.

The idea started when it picked up 10rwhp on my all motor itb car years ago. Now its extending the life of the oil in my street car.
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

Greaser wrote:The idea started when it picked up 10rwhp on my all motor itb car years ago. Now its extending the life of the oil in my street car.
I was wondering if you picked up any power since I've seen claims of 15-30rwhp on V8 motors after installing electric vacuum pumps. That's just a bonus!
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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partytron69000
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Re: My ****

Post by partytron69000 »

The level of knowledge in this thread is WAY above me, so I'm not even going to try to sound as car intelligent as you guys. What would it take for a dude off the street to get that transmission setup?
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240Life
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Re: My ****

Post by 240Life »

Greaser wrote:No air in the crankcase means no windage loses. Also evacuates more effectively all the blowby gasses and doesn't contaminate the oil.

The idea started when it picked up 10rwhp on my all motor itb car years ago. Now its extending the life of the oil in my street car.

Interesting, I'm going to have to research this one a little further.
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

240Life wrote:
Greaser wrote:No air in the crankcase means no windage loses. Also evacuates more effectively all the blowby gasses and doesn't contaminate the oil.

The idea started when it picked up 10rwhp on my all motor itb car years ago. Now its extending the life of the oil in my street car.

Interesting, I'm going to have to research this one a little further.
Here's a good article on it: http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/en ... orsepower/. Don't pay much attention to the part about oil pressure issues though. Post #5 in this thread explains why.

The simplest way to understand how a vacuum reduces windage losses is the old classic "feather falling in a vacuum": https://youtu.be/frZ9dN_ATew. In a vacuum chamber, the feather falls just as fast as a bowling ball because there is no air resistance to slow it down. In the crankcase, less air from the vacuum means that the spinning crank and moving pistons have less air resistance to fight against as they are moving at very at high speeds. This frees up horsepower. There is also the benefit of improving ring seal, but most of your power gains come from less windage.

Also, by removing blow by gases before they have a chance to "settle" and contaminate your oil, your oil will stay cleaner for a significantly longer period of time.

I spent a lot of time researching different PCV vacuum setups, and all of the methods have pros and cons. No matter what method I looked at, I kept coming back to Greaser's setup because of its simplicity and effectiveness. It's a brilliant idea and I am amazed that I haven't seen more setups like it.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

partytron69000 wrote:The level of knowledge in this thread is WAY above me, so I'm not even going to try to sound as car intelligent as you guys. What would it take for a dude off the street to get that transmission setup?
TransGO sells a shift kit that I used in this trans. They say its for professional installers only but I got through it pretty easy with the very detailed instructions they gave. When i first did it, that was the 2nd time i'd had an auto opened up.

The shifter mechanism is a one off piece that i'm sure I could replicate for anyone or anyone could make their own. The logic circuit to control the solenoids took me 3 months to figure out.

But you'd still have to have some other form whether switches or an EMS to control the lockup clutch and line pressure solenoids. Or you could ride around and full pressure all the time and just have a switch for lockup. "lockup" is that little button on your shifter that says "overdrive" basically. Usually engaging the overdrive switch allows the last gear selection and then lockup a couple seconds later.(or however trans's in said example is programmed.)
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superDorifto
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Re: My ****

Post by superDorifto »

Your narrative makes me sorta wish for an auto transmission to ***** around with...almost.
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s14fiend
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Re: My ****

Post by s14fiend »

Very interesting thread and posts and thank you for being so direct in your responses. I like the fact that when you post its clear and direct you don't leave any open ended hypotheticals in the mix.

LoL, all the manual swap guys looking to get an Automatic transmission swap now. I remember reading back in the day how the turbo240/AMS Performance was running a 300zx Auto (possibly turbo model) in their car with the the KA bell housing swap on it and they put that car in the low 9 second range basically a 8 second car at 9.10. My main issue with the auto is the weight...... it seems like it's almost double the weight. For guys that have access to a lift, the labor is easier than for guys with to two jack stands on the floor in the yard..... but that's just my opinion.

I saw the video on the tank but what lines connect to where on the engine.... is it off the vacuum system on the intake port (the one before the throttle body ) and the back of the tank separator ? Also what sort of tank is it ? Is it the "cheetah" style tank used for sealing the bead on some tires?.... Also I know it may be far fetched but aren't you scared that Sh*T (tank) just blows up next to you one day? What psi is in that and do you have to bleed the system out?
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Greaser
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Re: My ****

Post by Greaser »

s14fiend wrote:
LoL, all the manual swap guys looking to get an Automatic transmission swap now. I remember reading back in the day how the turbo240/AMS Performance was running a 300zx Auto (possibly turbo model) in their car with the the KA bell housing swap on it and they put that car in the low 9 second range basically a 8 second car at 9.10. My main issue with the auto is the weight...... it seems like it's almost double the weight. For guys that have access to a lift, the labor is easier than for guys with to two jack stands on the floor in the yard..... but that's just my opinion.
*enable ramble mode*
I don't remember that car but i remember a green 300zx from z1 that was auto and drag raced a 600hp engine or so. Did some searching never could really find any info. This isnt really about drag racing. I just cannot cannot stand a clutch car. Leaving from a stop no matter how good a clutch is, human inconsistency and variability piss me off. oh how high am i going to let it revup before letting out some. Oh how long is it going to take to start to engage,oh how much further should i let out at this throttle angle to get a smooth yet still effective acceleration rate. oh **** i bogged it and feel like an asshole. oh **** i chirped it and feel like an asshole. oh **** i slipped it to much and i can smell the clutch.

Then there's the issue of under heavy accel oh look here comes a shift event coming soon. Yeaaa lets lose all that boost, unsettle the suspension to get back on the throttle to wait for boost to build back up. Oh i just let out the clutch to fast and it upset the grip. There are hundreds of decisions that your brain makes during simple driving with a clutch. After the 20 years of driving i got tired of making them and dealing with the 75% of the time reactions to those decisions being undesirable.

Guys have to realize that auto manufactures build autos to suit those that complain all the time. The build them with variable line pressures, wash plates, accumulators, and then there is the trans fluid. They add slip additives to smooth out the shifts. This gives the transmission slow shift times and smooth operation. Thats the perception that built the term "slush box".

I have a corvette customer that we put a edelbrock blower kit on his ls3 with a factory auto 6L80E. Car made 550rwhp on the dyno and the trans was not happy. The factory programming was designed around a 400hp engine (thereabout)...... with the new power level the trans was not reacting fast enough and hitting the rev limiter all the time and acting funny gear hunting on throttle stabs all customer complaints. So we tell customer that we have to modify trans to suit the new power level. His only only only concern was "its not going to shift hard is it?". Yes **** it is, it needs to do that to live because you're ramming another 150hp down its throat. So we opted to just change shift points earlier and line pressure a little higher and keep the dextron slippery fluid in it. Customer seems happy. No shift kit no type f and no modifications for durability at that power level. He'll be back in 6 months to a year with a blown up trans. He knows all this and is "happy" with how it runs.

Really after you modify the auto to shift fast and hard with hard parts ,programming changes, and fluid type changes, it shifts faster than a human, no inconsistencies, no missed shifts, no boost loss, no suspension unloading reloading. If i get tire spin its easy to manage because i know is power related and not clutch release variables. Because of the ecu i have and the programming knowledge i have, its easy to correct for any variable i encounter with an auto. I could keep rambling but. The ONLY downside I have is I cant rev it up and make it leave harder in 1st gear. I fix that with converter stall changes or nitrous.

*disable ramble mode*
s14fiend wrote: I saw the video on the tank but what lines connect to where on the engine.... is it off the vacuum system on the intake port (the one before the throttle body ) and the back of the tank separator ? Also what sort of tank is it ? Is it the "cheetah" style tank used for sealing the bead on some tires?.... Also I know it may be far fetched but aren't you scared that Sh*T (tank) just blows up next to you one day? What psi is in that and do you have to bleed the system out?

The vacuum tank is connected to the bulkhead under the intake manifold that connects all 4 intake runners to one pipe. This supplies with tank with vacuum pulses from each runner and its nicely tucked away and hidden. The other side of the tank is connected to where the factory pcv valve is located, the rear of the oil pump cover with a barb connection.

The tank is a 150psi portable air tank.

The tank is not under pressure, its under vacuum; so no i'm not scared of it blowing up next to me. Now as for the nitrous bottle next to me, i used to be scared of but kinda like standing under a lift, i got used to it. None of the pictures show the nitrous bottle but is mounted behind the center console on the driveshaft tunnel hump. Basically right next to the vac tank and my seat, and its got a blow down tube vented outside the car. So as long as I get the bottle inspected every 1-3 years.......
adamky
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Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

Updates?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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s14fiend
Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 7:53 pm
Location: Miami, FL

Re: My ****

Post by s14fiend »

Greaser wrote:
s14fiend wrote:
LoL, all the manual swap guys looking to get an Automatic transmission swap now. I remember reading back in the day how the turbo240/AMS Performance was running a 300zx Auto (possibly turbo model) in their car with the the KA bell housing swap on it and they put that car in the low 9 second range basically a 8 second car at 9.10. My main issue with the auto is the weight...... it seems like it's almost double the weight. For guys that have access to a lift, the labor is easier than for guys with to two jack stands on the floor in the yard..... but that's just my opinion.
*enable ramble mode*
I don't remember that car but i remember a green 300zx from z1 that was auto and drag raced a 600hp engine or so. Did some searching never could really find any info. This isnt really about drag racing. I just cannot cannot stand a clutch car. Leaving from a stop no matter how good a clutch is, human inconsistency and variability piss me off. oh how high am i going to let it revup before letting out some. Oh how long is it going to take to start to engage,oh how much further should i let out at this throttle angle to get a smooth yet still effective acceleration rate. oh **** i bogged it and feel like an asshole. oh **** i chirped it and feel like an asshole. oh **** i slipped it to much and i can smell the clutch.

Then there's the issue of under heavy accel oh look here comes a shift event coming soon. Yeaaa lets lose all that boost, unsettle the suspension to get back on the throttle to wait for boost to build back up. Oh i just let out the clutch to fast and it upset the grip. There are hundreds of decisions that your brain makes during simple driving with a clutch. After the 20 years of driving i got tired of making them and dealing with the 75% of the time reactions to those decisions being undesirable.

Guys have to realize that auto manufactures build autos to suit those that complain all the time. The build them with variable line pressures, wash plates, accumulators, and then there is the trans fluid. They add slip additives to smooth out the shifts. This gives the transmission slow shift times and smooth operation. Thats the perception that built the term "slush box".

I have a corvette customer that we put a edelbrock blower kit on his ls3 with a factory auto 6L80E. Car made 550rwhp on the dyno and the trans was not happy. The factory programming was designed around a 400hp engine (thereabout)...... with the new power level the trans was not reacting fast enough and hitting the rev limiter all the time and acting funny gear hunting on throttle stabs all customer complaints. So we tell customer that we have to modify trans to suit the new power level. His only only only concern was "its not going to shift hard is it?". Yes **** it is, it needs to do that to live because you're ramming another 150hp down its throat. So we opted to just change shift points earlier and line pressure a little higher and keep the dextron slippery fluid in it. Customer seems happy. No shift kit no type f and no modifications for durability at that power level. He'll be back in 6 months to a year with a blown up trans. He knows all this and is "happy" with how it runs.

Really after you modify the auto to shift fast and hard with hard parts ,programming changes, and fluid type changes, it shifts faster than a human, no inconsistencies, no missed shifts, no boost loss, no suspension unloading reloading. If i get tire spin its easy to manage because i know is power related and not clutch release variables. Because of the ecu i have and the programming knowledge i have, its easy to correct for any variable i encounter with an auto. I could keep rambling but. The ONLY downside I have is I cant rev it up and make it leave harder in 1st gear. I fix that with converter stall changes or nitrous.

*disable ramble mode*
s14fiend wrote: I saw the video on the tank but what lines connect to where on the engine.... is it off the vacuum system on the intake port (the one before the throttle body ) and the back of the tank separator ? Also what sort of tank is it ? Is it the "cheetah" style tank used for sealing the bead on some tires?.... Also I know it may be far fetched but aren't you scared that Sh*T (tank) just blows up next to you one day? What psi is in that and do you have to bleed the system out?

The vacuum tank is connected to the bulkhead under the intake manifold that connects all 4 intake runners to one pipe. This supplies with tank with vacuum pulses from each runner and its nicely tucked away and hidden. The other side of the tank is connected to where the factory pcv valve is located, the rear of the oil pump cover with a barb connection.

The tank is a 150psi portable air tank.

The tank is not under pressure, its under vacuum; so no i'm not scared of it blowing up next to me. Now as for the nitrous bottle next to me, i used to be scared of but kinda like standing under a lift, i got used to it. None of the pictures show the nitrous bottle but is mounted behind the center console on the driveshaft tunnel hump. Basically right next to the vac tank and my seat, and its got a blow down tube vented outside the car. So as long as I get the bottle inspected every 1-3 years.......


Just saw your post... lol at the ramble part.... I guess I understand your part, it's simply a personal preference of yours.

Because to counter your argument you can Program ECU to enable flat shifting or put PPG/dog gears to a manual transmission which essentially removes all the inconsistencies of letting go of the throttle for "unsettling the suspension." Also at that power level you can even create your own version of traction control to "settle" the car and its variables in the Programs and softwares that many Standalone Engine Management companies offer. To each his own, but I still believe its easier and less costly to build a manual for our cars. You simply need a good multi plate clutch and some upgraded gears a drive shaft and your good to go..... in an automatic like you expressed you have more variables like torque converter, fluid, and other transmission control module components to get it to function like the "perfect" machine which everyone knows there isn't such a thing.

So yes it's more comfortable to drive and I understand your opinion. lol
Last edited by s14fiend on Fri Feb 26, 2016 11:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
adamky
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Posts: 3511
Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 6:40 am
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: My ****

Post by adamky »

s14fiend wrote:Just saw your post... lol at the ramble part.... I guess I understand your part, it's simply a personal preference of yours.

Because to counter your argument you can Program ECU to enable flat shifting or put PPG/dog gears to a manual transmission which essentially removes all the inconsistencies of letting go of the throttle for "unsettling the suspension." Also at that power level you can even create your own version of traction control to "unsettle" the car and its variables in the Programs and softwares that many Standalone Engine Management companies offer. To each is own, but I still believe its easier and less costly to build a manual for our cars. You simply need a good multi plate clutch and some upgraded gears a drive shaft and your good to go..... in an automatic like you expressed you have more variables like torque converter, fluid, and other transmission control module components to get it to function like the "perfect" machine which everyone knows there isn't such a thing.

So yes it's more comfortable to drive and I understand your opinion. lol
A twin plate clutch and upgraded gears in the trans isn't going to be cheap at all. I'd be willing to bet the auto trans setup that he is running is a small fraction of the cost of that. A Z32 trans would be a better option since the gears are almost twice as thick as the KA trans gears. But, it's also about double the weight.

There's a good reason why everyone switches to an auto trans when getting serious about time slips. It's hard to get the same consistency out of a manual trans that you can get out of a well-setup auto.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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RosadoRacing
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Re: My ****

Post by RosadoRacing »

If your a good driver and have a shift light you can be just as consistant as an auto. I have won many bracket races and beat alot of auto cars. One event that i made to the finals n loss due to Breakin an axle. I dialed in 10.90 and ran 10.91 10.93 10.92 basically .003 of my time n beat 2 auto cars that day. Also to launch a auto ull need nitrous unless u plan on spending 20 sec building boost at the line.
User avatar
s14fiend
Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 7:53 pm
Location: Miami, FL

Re: My ****

Post by s14fiend »

adamky wrote:
s14fiend wrote:Just saw your post... lol at the ramble part.... I guess I understand your part, it's simply a personal preference of yours.

Because to counter your argument you can Program ECU to enable flat shifting or put PPG/dog gears to a manual transmission which essentially removes all the inconsistencies of letting go of the throttle for "unsettling the suspension." Also at that power level you can even create your own version of traction control to "unsettle" the car and its variables in the Programs and softwares that many Standalone Engine Management companies offer. To each is own, but I still believe its easier and less costly to build a manual for our cars. You simply need a good multi plate clutch and some upgraded gears a drive shaft and your good to go..... in an automatic like you expressed you have more variables like torque converter, fluid, and other transmission control module components to get it to function like the "perfect" machine which everyone knows there isn't such a thing.

So yes it's more comfortable to drive and I understand your opinion. lol
A twin plate clutch and upgraded gears in the trans isn't going to be cheap at all. I'd be willing to bet the auto trans setup that he is running is a small fraction of the cost of that. A Z32 trans would be a better option since the gears are almost twice as thick as the KA trans gears. But, it's also about double the weight.

There's a good reason why everyone switches to an auto trans when getting serious about time slips. It's hard to get the same consistency out of a manual trans that you can get out of a well-setup auto.

:violin: I'd be willing to bet he is wasting more time and money on R&D for a stock automatic ka trans and converter that is NOT going to support the power level and consistency of a "real" drag car/ "real serious time slip car." Whatever that means to you I don't know.... (is that what his goals are even or are you putting words in his mouth? I just figured he is just enjoying the versatility aspect of his build). All I know is that in the long run I consider that to be working double in the "real time slip drag race car" aspect..... but like I said "to each his or her own" I have been neutral the whole time. I stand by my previous comments of it being less costly going with what works and has been working for many years instead of potentially breaking sh*t and spending double to fix it to get it to work the way you want it to.

I DO think it's cool though this man has stepped up his game as far as configuring the stock transmission at one point that was going to be my goal also to make the most power out of the Stock KA transmission possible..... but then realized that those goals weren't realistic for me and the constraints in my life in addition to the readily available aftermarket i.e. GM auto trans adapter kits 300zx trans adapter kits VQ trans adapter kits. I can keep going on and on but I hope you get my drift.
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