D.I.Y Motor Mounts

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MiaS13
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D.I.Y Motor Mounts

Post by MiaS13 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:27 am

Mods Please Sticky
What: Homemade Engine Mounts
Why: Alternative to Hockey Pucks, Nismo Mounts or Stock Mounts
Time: 1 hour

Tools Needed:
Drill with 3/8th Metal Drill Bit
Table Saw or Hand Saw
Tape Measure
Chalk

Materials Needed:

1 - Tube of super glue
2 - 16oz Rubber Mallets
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1 - 2ft length of 3/8ths all thread
4 - 3/8ths Nuts
8 - Washers (only 4 pictured)
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Step 1
Take your drill and drill a hole straight through the rubber mallet width-wise.
(there's metal in the middle so make sure you have the proper bit)
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Step 2
Then Cut the handles off
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So they look like this
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Step 3
measure the rubber and cut off rubber it until it measures 3 inches
(you can go smaller to lower the motor if you have clearence issues)
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like so
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Step 4
Cut 2 5&1/4inch lengths of all thread
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Step 5
Super Glue your washers around the holes on the rubber
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Step 6
Push your 5&1/4inch lengths of all thread through the rubber
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Step 7
screw nuts on each side

Final Product
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i chose to leave them bare, you can also wrap them in heavy duty tape or what not.
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Jackasknissan
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Post by Jackasknissan » Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:53 am

those are better than pucks how?


pucks for the win.
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Post by Spud5251 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:32 am

How well do you think they are going to hold up to the heat from your engine? i can understand saving a few bucks here and there but damn.
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Post by TinyT » Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:54 pm

this is realhomemadeturbo.com style ****. haha.

" dude is that wood in your motor mount?"

good effort, but that might be a wee bit sketch
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Post by frankist » Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:58 pm

cool stuff. i like my nismo stuff but im sure this would work fine. =) tell us how much power your putting up against this, ride impressions, and life of these mounts. might help out another member =)
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Post by cmoody2006 » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:20 am

I think I might try this for my stock motor just to see how well it holds up

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Post by Jackasknissan » Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:44 pm

please use pucks instead.. instead of spending more for a hammer,
just buy 4 pucks....
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Post by 240tuned91 » Sun Sep 13, 2009 9:07 am

rubber malets tend to crack from hot/cold weather. maybe it will work fine. let us kno how it works for you and the vibration level. what are u setting ur idle at.
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Post by 200sxBoY » Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:19 am

ghetto lol

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Post by eazye2000 » Tue Nov 17, 2009 6:46 pm

Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it came out.

I just had a buddy give me two solid pieces of steel with a hole in them for my new solid mounts. I'd like some feedback on this before I add 12 pounds of steel to my car. lol
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Post by TinyT » Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:05 pm

eazye2000 wrote:Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it came out.

I just had a buddy give me two solid pieces of steel with a hole in them for my new solid mounts. I'd like some feedback on this before I add 12 pounds of steel to my car. lol
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Post by factory_option » Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:09 am

I have JGS Poly mounts and I hate life. I couldn't imagine solid mounts. Get the JGS Rubber and call it a day.

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Post by el tigre » Mon Nov 23, 2009 11:18 am

I wouldn't recommend this. I tried a similar setup, but with the rubber from dock stops for semi trucks. The engine eventually torques into the mounts and causes the studs to loosen, not to mention it greatly reduced the efficiency of putting power to the ground. The mounts were swapped to JGS Polys and it was night and day. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, period. Sorry dude.
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Post by Liger » Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:40 pm

eazye2000 wrote:Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it came out.

I just had a buddy give me two solid pieces of steel with a hole in them for my new solid mounts. I'd like some feedback on this before I add 12 pounds of steel to my car. lol

Yeah. I would not do this. I had solid aluminum mounts for about a week and it was hell. My dash vibrated a good inch or more and the gauges bounced around so much they were useless, let alone the vibration through the steering wheel. Plus, it was ridiculously loud inside.

So, cut them down and use some reinforced rubber bushings and you'll be good to go.

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Post by drivemarcusdrive » Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:39 pm

good thinking outside the box, but +1 for hockeypuckamoturmountsss. if its not broke dont fix it. i really wanna try full solid sometime, haha. btw MI loves hockey pucks!

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Post by 89SOHCvettehunter » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:43 am

I did the same thing but with the homemade polyurethane stuff. poured into a pop can with one end cut out and a whole in the other to put bolt thru works good no problems yet. i know i know ghetto

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Post by Jordan Gladman » Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:16 pm

Any DIY mount that uses a bolt that goes right through the mount is worthless IMO.... you might as well just run a steel puck.

The tension through the bolt will make for a very solid feeling mount and the rubber will have little effect. I was doing urethane mounts like this for a while and just wasnt happy selling them.

The only way to go is with an isolated engine mount where there is no direct line of steel between the motor and the subframe.

If you want a good DIY mount, buy 2 pucks and countersink enough room to put a bolt/washer under each puck facing outwards. Then screw the 2 pucks together at the perimeter. This will isolate the bolts from each other and still give a stiff mount without a solid contact line.

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Post by bassboy3313 » Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:09 pm

^^^+1

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Post by rob 2fast4u » Sat Feb 20, 2010 7:13 pm

Jordan Gladman wrote:Any DIY mount that uses a bolt that goes right through the mount is worthless IMO.... you might as well just run a steel puck.

The tension through the bolt will make for a very solid feeling mount and the rubber will have little effect. I was doing urethane mounts like this for a while and just wasnt happy selling them.

The only way to go is with an isolated engine mount where there is no direct line of steel between the motor and the subframe.

If you want a good DIY mount, buy 2 pucks and countersink enough room to put a bolt/washer under each puck facing outwards. Then screw the 2 pucks together at the perimeter. This will isolate the bolts from each other and still give a stiff mount without a solid contact line.
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Post by Jordan Gladman » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:39 am

Just because I dont want people wasting their time with crappy motor mounts, I drew this up.

You would want washers on the outside of the pucks, I just removed them to simplify. I think its self explanitory.


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Post by cmoody2006 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:26 am

Throwing my .02 out there.... I made a set of solid steel motor mounts for my ka. They are rediculous for anything except track use. I dont recomend this at all unless your building a track car everything rattles and it will beat you up to drive. My friend has a ca18det he picked up that someone had made the diy tutorial version mounts with 2 separate bolts not one solid all the way through. He ripped both motor mounts in half and snapped the bolts in the rubber section of his driveshaft the other day... I like the puck design posted here gonna try that out sometime

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Post by TinyT » Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:37 am

cmoody2006 wrote:Throwing my .02 out there.... I made a set of solid steel motor mounts for my ka. They are rediculous for anything except track use. I dont recomend this at all unless your building a track car everything rattles and it will beat you up to drive. My friend has a ca18det he picked up that someone had made the diy tutorial version mounts with 2 separate bolts not one solid all the way through. He ripped both motor mounts in half and snapped the bolts in the rubber section of his driveshaft the other day... I like the puck design posted here gonna try that out sometime
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Post by katrecipe » Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:50 am

That's clever i am not to sure if it will last but cool to see different things being thought up thumbs up for trying new things :D
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Post by secondtonone317 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:15 am

Nice idea, lots of better options out there but whatever floats your boat.

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Post by Aaj2k5 » Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:57 am

I'm sketching up something similar to double pucks like that but how are you keeping the countersunk bolt from turning while tightening..

And just have to make sure the external fasteners holding them together don't make contact with the mount bracket so that it will seat firmly.

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Post by je_decoy » Sun Jun 12, 2011 4:20 pm

Aaj2k5 wrote:I'm sketching up something similar to double pucks like that but how are you keeping the countersunk bolt from turning while tightening..

And just have to make sure the external fasteners holding them together don't make contact with the mount bracket so that it will seat firmly.
did you ever figure the answer to this?

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Post by The Bouncer » Sat Jun 18, 2011 12:22 am

TinyT wrote:
eazye2000 wrote:Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it came out.

I just had a buddy give me two solid pieces of steel with a hole in them for my new solid mounts. I'd like some feedback on this before I add 12 pounds of steel to my car. lol
your gonna hate your life
you will literally never want to use your car, i had solids in my car for a couple months and they put 3 cracks in my dash and vibrated almost everything loose, bolts have apeared in my floor board HATED THOSE THINGS
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Post by MRLuke » Thu Jul 28, 2011 3:23 am

Bringing up this thread.

I want to solid mount my engine as the car is mostly used on track.

I have previously run a car with poly engine mounts and was completely unfazed by the increased vibration at idle and very impressed with how much tighter the car felt.

The question is I guess just how much worse are solid mounts compared to poly? Is it a vibration at idle situation or is my dash going to bounce an inch up and down all the time?

I have read that if you solid mount the engine then you should only poly mount the transmission otherwise you risk breaking the casing. Is this true for the Ka?

Thoughts from anybody who actually runs solid mounts would be awesome :)
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Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=53366

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Post by Preston » Thu Jul 28, 2011 7:21 am

MRLuke wrote:Bringing up this thread.

I want to solid mount my engine as the car is mostly used on track.

I have previously run a car with poly engine mounts and was completely unfazed by the increased vibration at idle and very impressed with how much tighter the car felt.

The question is I guess just how much worse are solid mounts compared to poly? Is it a vibration at idle situation or is my dash going to bounce an inch up and down all the time?

I have read that if you solid mount the engine then you should only poly mount the transmission otherwise you risk breaking the casing. Is this true for the Ka?

Thoughts from anybody who actually runs solid mounts would be awesome :)
It's not that bad. I've been running Xcessives solid mounts for a year now no problems. It vibrates ALOT but nothing has fallen out or loosened up or broke. Your tach and speedo will bounce a little and anything plastic that isn't bolted (aka snap clipped in) will rattle but I have a stripped car so I have minimal plastic.

You can't beat the feel of immediate power transfer and I have had ppl at autocross think I'm an automatic from how fast and smooth I can grab gears.

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Post by MRLuke » Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:31 pm

Not sure if id be better of starting my own thread...

I need to make some mounts up for my KA.

On the drivers (right hand) side I am a little tight for space so would like to do this:

Using these 3 bolts on the block
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Mounting to this chassis plate (will be reinforced)

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only problem is that the mounts will run at this angle

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They are going to be made of 2" x 2" box section and solid mounted.

All input appreciated :)

Just realised the pictures arent great.. the chassis plate is right at the front of the engine and the mount would go to about the middle of the block.
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Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=53366

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