Lowering motor mounts

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Mark Washington
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Lowering motor mounts

Post by Mark Washington »

I decided to make Lowering motor mounts to fit my intake plenum and throttle body
from hitting my hood.

this is a pic of them.

Image

Image

I painted them black then installed them now my hood does this,

Image

Quite an accomplishment for the day. My Pan hangs down so a skid plate is next.
I can only do so much with my little lincoln.
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Post by Mark Washington »

Image

Before

Image
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Post by Mark Washington »

After,

Image
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Post by ILuvS13s »

not bad. i like it. my JGS urethane mounts lowered my engine just about right.

On the other hand, those welds look a little suspect to cracking though. They are thin high beads and it looks like you pulled the weld. You should crank up the heat a little bit, slow down, and push the welds. Id want a nice wide flat weld for a joint like that. Might want to go over them with a cover pass. But thats just my opinion.
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Post by Mark Washington »

I hope they hold up.
The more I look at the back of the motor and bell housing,
I realize I could bring the motor back an inch or more but the driveshaft,tranny mount,
and front subframe will have to be slightly modified. I think it will make the car handle better G wise and If I was doing a trans swap I would opp to have th head almost hit the firewall.
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Post by Liger »

How is your oil pan clearance now?
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

Isnt there limited space between the oil pan and subframe as is? I wonder if the pan will touch the subframe when the engine torques?
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Post by Mark Washington »

Yes, When the motor wat out I seam welded the front subframe and notched out the front where the power steering lines, and oil pan live.. I was going to relocate the PS reservoier but I just layed some flat stock over it. I cant wait to flex it.
I can still lay my palm under the pan where the rack is.

The clearance as far as bottoming out on speed bumps ect yes Its bad. I need to make
a skid plate to protect the sr20 sump.

Its not a rally car and I dont let dumb people drive it, but dubb things happen
to the best of us and I have cracked enough oil pans on slammed rides with stock motor mount mounts. My old motor mounts were solid poly chunks with threads through the middle. They were weak and broke, but after puttind my nismo ones in my valve cover hit my strut tower bar, so the nismo mounts raise a hair. So if I needed to lower it more,
I could get some bad ass motor mounts and It might stop wagging back and forth.
I drove with a broken motor mount's and nismo are smooth.
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Post by Mark Washington »

So I had issues with my throttle cable not being long enouph to reach the Q45 throttle
body that is now upsidedown so that I can use the powersteering pump and keep the factory location.
I have seen other people relocate the pump and reservoier but didn't look into that.

So rather than order a brand new shinny one from lakar or krimping the cable to make it fit I mad it easy and just as ugly. If I didn't mention it (longer throttle cable)
It would be overlooked along with so many other factory Nissan/Datsun/mercury/Infinity parts from other models
that have been utilized.

I know its not a sleeper so why go ugly and cheep?
I got it done the Day I thought of it and wanted to help the next guy (KA single slammer)
get it done with a factory Nissan part.
I went to the junkyard and found a Stanza with a KA24e in it. Perfect length maybe too
long but it was tattered so I looked around for long throttle cables.
to make a Short story shorter I found a hardbody KA24e powered with just the extra couple of inches I was looking for.
I still have to make a bracket since the cable is on the other side now.
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Post by Mark Washington »

Image

The next thing is the pipping

Image

Thanks Turbopipping.com for the good quick service.
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Post by Mark Washington »

I still need to weld the BOV flange and make the bracket for the throttle then its startup time.

one other thing I think I need to address is the downpipe hitting the ground/trailer
My downpipe was hitting as is and I dont want to crack the header or pull threads
off the block when it hits. I am also considering oversizing the header studs but not
this time around.
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Post by sloka-t »

i didnt read the thread, but, why didnt you just get lower engine mounts?
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Post by Mark Washington »

I like to make it myself If I can help it. That is a funny question to ask in the welding section.
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

Its the welding/fabrication section, technically you could just just "fabricated" a thinner engine mount...

I guess if you do custom runners you can jack the motor back up though anyways.
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Post by Mark Washington »

If I have to go back to stock cool, but as far as other motor mounts, I had
the poly chunk with the threaded rod through I think touge factory, and they broke,
so I got nismo's (regret) and they made the stifness in other area'a come out.
Like the suspention, and chassis itself motor, the nismo ones raised the motor so the strut bar hit the valve cover. now it is about an inch away.

I made a skid plate but it is going to hit alot at this ride hight 8cm
I dont think the straight runners will give me issies, but they wont do any good
for anyone else. My plan was to only hold the new runners flange to the head
and skrap the stock mount that makes it so you could jump on the plenum.
If I feel its week or you guys think It should be held other than just on the intake ports,
I guess we'll go down that road shortly.
Thanks for the input, It keeps me motivated. :D
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