Kee Klamp Alternatives?

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airman
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Kee Klamp Alternatives?

Post by airman »

Hello all,

What I am looking for isn't directly related to cars or anything, but I was hoping someone here may know what I'm looking for and try to find something a little more cost effective...

I am in the process of designing a large computer desk to fit three 24" monitors, and I'm looking into doing it as a tube-frame style. However, I want it to be modular to where I can break it down if/when I have to (so no welding).

What I am looking for are Kee Klamps - without the fancy brand name and even the "Klamp" portion of it. All of the ones that I can find use set-screws and market the fact that these things are "weldless". That's nice and all, but to get all of the fittings that I need I'd be spending over $130 for them.

So, imagine a Kee Klamp:

Image

In a cheap, galvanized, [chinese] version where the set screws aren't there, and instead I would place the pipe inside of the fitting, drill through both sides, (holes in the fitting already exist) and stick a bolt with a nut on the end of it through.

There has GOT to be something like this out there! I can't imagine not one company has made something between welding/threading ends and these fancy Kee Klamps.

Please, someone be my savior! LOL

Basic, incomplete idea:

Image[/img]
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sicks13
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Post by sicks13 »

Home Depot has this stuff for chain link fences:

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Mater ... ogId=10053
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schmauster920
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Post by schmauster920 »

You could get pipes and a pipe threader and make it really strong, wouldnt be that cheap or light though.. How about galvanized gas pipe fittings? Pretty cheap at any home improvement store

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airman
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Post by airman »

Yeah I saw the fencing stuff but they don't have them as small as I need (1" - 1.25" pipe) and don't really have all the different types that I need.

As far as threading the pipes go, I would have a LOT of threading to do that I'd like to avoid...
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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schmauster920
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Post by schmauster920 »

You could get them with threads on the outside or not at all (for strength) and drill a hole through? Or weld everything and have a few removable or folding parts.
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Aaj2k5
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Post by Aaj2k5 »

+1 for chainlink fence materials or plumbing . (I work weekends at Rona btw).

Top rail sections are 1.25" x 10' long ($15)

Use 1.5" posts cut to size as legs. Use 1.25" top rail sections for everything horizontal. Use rail end assemblies to tie it together.


Plumbing:

Use accessories (Tee's, 90's, flanges etc) that are next size up from the pipe you're running, they wont thread in but then u could use a set screw or bolt through it. No threading.
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airman
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Post by airman »

That's good thinking. The only thing about the threaded couplers is that they are quite thick and I hope that I wouldn't have much trouble drilling through them. I'll go take a look at Lowe's sometime this week and sniff around.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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Post by schmauster920 »

They are a decently soft metal as far as i remember, i dont think drilling through will be a problem

I have 2 straight female threaded sections welded on my oil pan for a turbo drain bung and also oil temp sensor lol
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress
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