lsx adapter plate teaser

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beercandrifter
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lsx adapter plate teaser

Post by beercandrifter »

teaser

cnc machine up and running (yes i know the cables are there in the way during the video). sorry about the shaky video, its off my phone
http://youtu.be/zhknuUqD_zI

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going to be fabbing some prototypes this week and next, headed to the store here for some wood to make the test plates. just time to verify the gcode and how accurate i was with my measurements. so nice to have progress on something
Last edited by beercandrifter on Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by supakat »

Nice work! I gotta come check your setup.
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Post by beercandrifter »

supakat wrote:Nice work! I gotta come check your setup.
seems that it is growing every day. your welcome up anytime man
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Post by beercandrifter »

oo learning g-code is fun. pretty awesome that they have built in sequences for drilling bolt patterns. got the cnc moving on its own. just building a simple g-code output to drill my bolt holes and make sure its all good to go. nasty thunderstorm, so wrapped up playing out in the garage for the night
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Post by Super Coupe »

What are these for?

Z trans on a Lsx motor?



I am seriously contemplating selling off all my turbo stuff to go LSX. Then turbo that later down the road...
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Post by beercandrifter »

Super Coupe wrote:What are these for?

Z trans on a Lsx motor?
yes sir.

idea is to just have the ability to use the same z transmission that everyone here already uses and not need to get more machining done. that way everyone wins. especially when i decide i want to go back to my turbo ka for the awesome sound =)

found out my cnc machine has an inch less of a machinable footprint than they advertised. will need to mod the machine to gain another inch of travel. since the ls bolt pattern is practically at 17 inches and i only have 17 inches of play, not enough for the 1/4 endmill. got that figured out though, just need it to stop raining so i can do some cutting outside.

soon as i get this plate machined and tested, its on to making some other ones that people on here want for their ka's
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Post by slidewayzagain »

I like your stuff...
maybe a de to t5 or t56 plate later on like after i win the lotto or something
may your rods stay oiled and your nuts tight
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Post by beercandrifter »

slidewayzagain wrote:I like your stuff...
maybe a de to t5 or t56 plate later on like after i win the lotto or something
if you win the lotto, i would be happy to make you a plate to mount anything you want to the ka. right now, just focusing on one at a time =)


so I imported the gcode for my plate into the cnc machine yesterday, let it run through the sequence (with no plate in there) just to make sure all was well since it was my first time using a full gcode sequence on the machine. watched it go to each of my bolt holes and try to machine it. just trying to decide on how to mount the plates to the table at this point then its machine time. on target pretty much timewise for getting one done by next weekend.
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Post by supakat »

Awesome beercan.
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Post by Super Coupe »

So how does the plate work?

What clutch/flywheel/TOB/? What about the input shaft?
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Post by beercandrifter »

Super Coupe wrote:So how does the plate work?

What clutch/flywheel/TOB/? What about the input shaft?
its just a bolt pattern adapter, shave down the the top half of the z32 trans, bolt plate to trans, bolt trans/plate to engine. input shaft length is almost identical (for the area that extends past the bellhousing)


the gm pilot bearing utilizes the same id as the z32 does

tob will be nissan ka/z/d21

clutch will be d21/300zx/rb white bunny variants. not going to test it for anything else. I have found this to be the cheapest most effective route to get a 240mm clutch package on here which was the whole point

flywheel I am having a d21 flywheel machined to the gm bolt pattern, theres enough meat on them and the iron d21 flywheel is about 7 lbs lighter than the gm flywheel and its 40$ new compared to 300$

starter I am using the z32 starter. that is the only thing i would want to test, there are a tt/na variant of the bell housings and starters. same internal gearsets, just different starter location. the adapter plate doesnt effect the starter location, i would just need to check to see that the tt starter clears the engine block. only have a n/a trans at the moment in the garage


honestly though, i would love to make a full face adapter for the trans. tooling is the only limiting factor for that though (my 12x18 machining area). the semi circle adapter only effectively uses 4 bolts on the z32 trans. the lsx motors only have 5 bellhousing bolts total on the block. it will go through plenty of testing on my car
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Post by beercandrifter »

oh yeah, cnc drilled out the bolt hole pattern for the first plate. bolts right up.

need to move one bolt hole about a tenth of an inch over to get it centered a bit more, transfer punches had a little bit of play on tapered holes in the bellhousing.

Image

just a little bit more of playing with the gcode and getting associated with the machine and I will do the whole plate
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Post by superDorifto »

So basically this will let you"reuse" your mazzworx Z32 kit worth an LS1 swap?
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Post by beercandrifter »

superDorifto wrote:So basically this will let you"reuse" your mazzworx Z32 kit worth an LS1 swap?
thats what im aiming for (being able to reuse the z32 bellhousing that was machined for the mazworx adapter).

i have my 2 gcode files done for this, for the bolt patterns and for machining the exterior of the plate. just need to do some surgery on my cnc machine to get another half an inch out of the travel to cut the shape of the plate. been a super hectic weekend here

started making a cutting plate so I can take my router to the trans bellhousing and machine it down
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Post by beercandrifter »

well, i machined a piece with all the bolt holes, only one was off. made the corrections in my files, just trying to get time to put another plate into the machine to cut it out.

set the wood plate i put in the cnc on fire monday. awesome birthday present. just glad nothing in my garage caught on fire, filled the place with smoke and all. still reeks.

my feedrate was too slow for mdf, was doing an inch per minute. according to the cnc websites I should be able to run 80-120 inches per minute at .125" depth cuts, can see why i set it on fire.

I bought a engine stand to put the engine on that mounts to the stock motor mount locations so I can have access to the bellhousing bolt holes to test the adapter (the stand i have now uses the bellhousing bolt holes).

also made a plate to mount the router to so I can mill down the transmission housing. I will take pictures of that when I do mine for anyone who wants to save themselves some money in the future
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Post by supakat »

Sweet!
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Post by adamky »

This is very cool. I am sure I will go LSX one day.
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Post by beercandrifter »

a roughing pass of the adapter body (dont mind the drilled holes, was reusing a test board that I already had mounting holes in)
Image
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couple minutes of the machining, stuff is noisy in the little garage, forewarning,
http://youtu.be/rp2Zfu5S6yA

trying to get the machine to not do stupid cut passes like that. and there is no audio worth listening in the video except for screeech screech oh my ear drums
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Post by supakat »

Cool stuff.
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Post by klh6686 »

really nice, I lust for the day when I go after a cnc machine. Can you PM me any details on your machine?
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Post by superDorifto »

I like this idea, alot.

what program did you create the solid model in? I have some friends with access to pretty large 3 and 4 axis machines if you want to get some blanks cut.
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Post by airman »

I liked this when I first came to this thread. This is awesome. +Rep for you :)
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Post by beercandrifter »

klh6686 wrote:really nice, I lust for the day when I go after a cnc machine. Can you PM me any details on your machine?
machine is a probotix fireball v90. its really meant for lighter materials (i.e. wood, plastics, sheet metal) but have found several people who have made it work on thicker aluminum. will find out really quick.
superDorifto wrote:what program did you create the solid model in?
I actually created the model in draftsight (solidworks 2d freeware cad package), did some extrusions and exported to a stl model. for the final model where i actually have to machine out some of the material to clear the timing cover on the engine I will modify the model with blender (the first model on the thread is actually from blender). unfortunately draftsight wont let me perform boolean commands like autocad would (i.e. unions, subtracts), otherwise i would have done it all from that package. but using blender because im all about the open source stuff here.

utilizing meshcam for the cam software (bought it with the machine), lets me import 2d dxf files, stl files and a few other formats. there are so many options to play with when setting up the machine toolpaths.

using linuxcnc (emc^2) for the controller software. it works really well from what I have done with it.

the thought has crossed my mind of having a shop with a beefier machine punch out a few of these for me simply due to the noise my machine creates and having to buy bits etc, but in the end it just ups the cost/lowers the profit i would make on these. have some materials picked out to build a sound dampening enclosure for the shopvac and the cnc machine, just need the money to go pick it all up. would also keep the machined material from getting all over my car parts.
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Post by beercandrifter »

made a change to the design due to my limitations of only being unable to make a full faced adapter plate with my machine and after reading about some of the members here with their opinions on the matter.

opting for:
machining all the lsx bolt holes
machining 3 z32 bolt holes for alignment
changing the adapter plate shape to increase the efficiency of the machining process (cut the time down from 20 minutes to 4)
welding the adapter plate to the bellhousing after I machine it down. can always cut it off with a grinder after the fact if i want to switch its use.

went through several test plates, finally nailed the end product. soon as this hurricane stops dumping rain on me, going to go outside with my cutoff wheel and decimate my z32 bellhousing and bolt this sucker up. know the bolt pattern works on both sides now, its just getting them together.

seems the shopvac does not like being enclosed. it shutoff several times on me so the cnc machine was spewing mdf dust at me and probably cut 5 years off my life breathing that stuff in through a towel

now that we know how everyone was getting the z32 starter to work with the ka/rb/d21 flywheels its smooth sailing from here.

Image
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plate bolts up with just enough tolerance on the alignment pins that i could tap it on with a hammer. may open it up another 2-3 thousandths
Image

clears the rear timing cover (old design required some complex machining to clear that cover)
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Post by supakat »

Good stuff. Can't wait to see it mounted. As for the starter, I just used an 87 Pulsar auto starter. Just had to drill some mounting holes on the starter. Measure the diameter of the FW and see how it compares to the KA/D21 etc. I saw a thread on line where an SBC was using a Maxima starter.
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Post by beercandrifter »

supakat wrote:Good stuff. Can't wait to see it mounted. As for the starter, I just used an 87 Pulsar auto starter. Just had to drill some mounting holes on the starter. Measure the diameter of the FW and see how it compares to the KA/D21 etc. I saw a thread on line where an SBC was using a Maxima starter.
flywheel is a d21 flywheel, where did you pick up a pulsar starter?


ate a disc and a half cutting the trans. actually came out looking more flush than the pics lead you to believe
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Post by supakat »

AutoZone. It is $70. Good job on the cut.
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Post by beercandrifter »

supakat wrote:AutoZone. It is $70. Good job on the cut.
for anyone who trys to do this, the first lip on the trans is basically .5", its a really nice guide for doing the cut
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Post by beercandrifter »

o hai engine trans combo
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been trying to find some sound deadening material around town, seems i have to order most of it online. the lowes doesnt stock the building residential cork insulation material at mine for some reason
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Post by supakat »

That looks awesome. Great work. What about the two top bolts for the tranny? What if you were to make an L bracket that bolts to tranny then bolts to plate or do you have something already?
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