O&J Performance 240SX Race Car

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O&Jperformance
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O&J Performance 240SX Race Car

Post by O&Jperformance »

Well guy I just started to get my car together.Nothing great or fancy but I think it will do the job.I'm going to try and keep you guys updated as much as I can with this project and let see if I could finish this by the end of the year.It will be tough but I'll try.

Here are some pics hope you like them nothing much but here we go.Let represent the Ka24-T

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Last edited by O&Jperformance on Sun Jun 27, 2010 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by s14fiend »

I am sure some members are wondering... will this be a KA24DE or KA24E?
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Post by TinyT »

im diggin this
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Post by O&Jperformance »

s14fiend wrote:I am sure some members are wondering... will this be a KA24DE or KA24E?
I have both choices but there is a 75% that will be a KA24ET
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Post by TanManS14 »

God please keep it with stock body and no s15 front. The car looks so good.
It's always broken.
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Post by tom550 »

O&Jperformance wrote:
s14fiend wrote:I am sure some members are wondering... will this be a KA24DE or KA24E?
I have both choices but there is a 75% that will be a KA24ET
YES! :cheers:

lets see that 2000hp E!!
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Post by s14fiend »

O&Jperformance wrote:
s14fiend wrote:I am sure some members are wondering... will this be a KA24DE or KA24E?
I have both choices but there is a 75% that will be a KA24ET
LOL... You guys sure love that KA24E up there huh? Is this the first build you guys do on a 240sx that you post on KA-T.org?
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Post by O&Jperformance »

TanManS14 wrote:God please keep it with stock body and no s15 front. The car looks so good.
It will stay with the stock front end.The only thing is it might be fiberglass front end to try and take some weight off.
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Post by O&Jperformance »

s14fiend wrote:
O&Jperformance wrote:
s14fiend wrote:I am sure some members are wondering... will this be a KA24DE or KA24E?
I have both choices but there is a 75% that will be a KA24ET
LOL... You guys sure love that KA24E up there huh? Is this the first build you guys do on a 240sx that you post on KA-T.org?
It is the first one I post on KA-T
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Post by z31-88 »

finally that thing goes into the shop....btw i sold u the five lug a yr or so ago
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Post by O&Jperformance »

z31-88 wrote:finally that thing goes into the shop....btw i sold u the five lug a yr or so ago
So you are Tyler.Yes it finally went to the shop for some work.I was at the drifting event the other day at CFRC it was ok.I have an S13 that I might go ahead and drift with it let you know later.
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Post by nelson240sx »

That stance is nasty....Will defintally be watching the build.
KA24E-T 06/06 to 10/09 (T25 then H1C Holset) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
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Post by O&Jperformance »

Time for some updates nothing pretty but we are making some progress.

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Post by O&Jperformance »

The Ladder are installed know gotta work on the shocks.

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Post by torch'd »

some day i will go there :D i love the solid axle without fully back halfing the car looks amazing. and slick on a coupe is so sexy. ill be running a 26" slick on stock suspension hoping to get a ka24e in the 10's with you guys's help on cam and a few other things. can't wait to see what this one runs. great job guys.
going fast, i can do that... this going sideways thing is tricky.....
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Post by O&Jperformance »

torch'd wrote:some day i will go there :D i love the solid axle without fully back halfing the car looks amazing. and slick on a coupe is so sexy. ill be running a 26" slick on stock suspension hoping to get a ka24e in the 10's with you guys help on cam and a few other things. can't wait to see what this one runs. great job guys.
All this work is being done at my friends shop CR Race Cars he does very good work and very reasonable when it comes down to prices.I went this rout with solid axles because when I put numbers together by buying new heavy duty axle and all the other stuff it was going to be around the same amount of money.I'm also running a clutchless G-Force G5 trans so I was a little skeptical about how much power the axle were going to handle.
Last edited by O&Jperformance on Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by torch'd »

i totally understand that. if i get to that level i will be switching to a solid axle as well. for now i can't afford it. hell im scraping bye on cherios and pb&j for the p[ast 2 weeks to afford the cam and solid lifter :D
going fast, i can do that... this going sideways thing is tricky.....
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Post by torch'd »

okay after looking it over few more q's, is there a reason u made the ladder bars so long? just looking at your work gives me ideas but idk if id make them so long without a reason too. also are u mounting the coilovers to those studs or to the stock shock mounting positions? with the way that the positioning is you could almost use a stock s13 coilover.
going fast, i can do that... this going sideways thing is tricky.....
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Post by TinyT »

torch'd wrote: is there a reason u made the ladder bars so long? just looking at your work gives me ideas but idk if id make them so long without a reason too.
so it does wheelies!! come on now
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Post by torch'd »

lol and how does that help it do wheelies???
going fast, i can do that... this going sideways thing is tricky.....
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Post by O&Jperformance »

torch'd wrote:okay after looking it over few more q's, is there a reason u made the ladder bars so long? just looking at your work gives me ideas but idk if id make them so long without a reason too. also are u mounting the coilovers to those studs or to the stock shock mounting positions? with the way that the positioning is you could almost use a stock s13 coilover.
The ladder bars are standard size 32" which is what 99% of the ladder bars are in the market.Be very careful with the short ladder bars because once the cars start making good power the suspension gets really aggressive and your 60' time start getting worst instead of better.I seen it happen a few times with different cars and chassis builders and its a little difficult to tune the suspension. The studs are where the stock suspension goes. All that is going to be cut and remove.The shock are going to be mounted where you see that plate in front of it.The stock might work it the stock suspension was there but once you remove it you need to do something else or something like I'm doing.
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Post by Mark Washington »

The four control arms on a four link type suspension, when adjusted correctly for whatever car can help launch faster and use less horsepower doing it. Compared to a ladder bar suspension a 4 link suspension has the added benifit of changing the length of the Instant Center to accomodate more or less front end lift without adding any more anti squat.ladderbar length should be related to wheelbase. Also, I notice that most ladderbars available are 33", Not sure what O&J is using? but the ends are somewhat adjustable on the ladderbar setup you just lose thread and strength the longhr you try to go since its not ment for wheelbase lengthaning its for pinion angle. A good pinion angle can
"stop wheelhop then you get good wheelies and better ETA's "

O&J do you think the 10 bolt will hold the torque of the monster E? and what ring and pinion ratio do you plan to use?
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Post by O&Jperformance »

The Chevy 10 bolt will be plenty for what I'm doing that's not a problem. I really wanted to use a 9" ford but I'm trying to be as light as possible and the 9 " is little heavier.As far as ring and pinion don't know yet it all depends what I do the gear ratio on the tranny.
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Post by Mark Washington »

What trans do you plan to use? Z32? TH400? Glide?
I have yet to see a powerglide on a KA :lol: I have talked about a 9'' in anything as the solution since I was 12, I have had more wheelhop with my 4 link than I ever had with the 10 bolt and mano leaf setup so its all how you set it up. More adjustments makes more things to go wrong if you dont take the time to set it up.

I put 275-40-17 mickey thompson drag radials on my S13 with S15 subframe in the rear with 20psi just to tune and see what she was about.(Not a drag car) I run .9 - camber in the rear and no toe. The traction rods are bottomed out and shortened battle versions. The subframe bushings are solid the only thing I dont have ball ends on is the knuckle and LCA but they are both Energy red and it still walked when it tried to grip the clutch starts to slip I feel stuff tweak but its never quick enough to know if it was smoking clutch. I got a new Spec stage 4 and its doing the same thing but I hope its just not broken in yet.
For drag the solid rear and ladder bars will save you time in the 60ft bigggg time no doubt about it. the pinion and thrust angle is all you have to deal with way less hasle and well worth the fab work.
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Post by torch'd »

ill be using my th350 since i already own it. should hold up to a ka24e just fine and again like he said is lighter and draws less power to rotate than the th400.

oh and awesome work on the tuck. i hate the drag s13's i keep seeing that are jacked way up to fit the slicks
going fast, i can do that... this going sideways thing is tricky.....
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Post by Mark Washington »

What converter and flexplate do you use on the E when this is done? and who makes a bell housing? I dont need to know since I will never do it just wondring.
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Post by torch'd »

i will be making my own bell housing adapter. not a full custom housing. as for flex plate im really not sure yet but ill find one that works and redrill it for a chevy torque converter pattern. ive always kinda done it a semi redneck way to make it work. eventually may have to have a custom flex plate made who knows. we shall see :D
going fast, i can do that... this going sideways thing is tricky.....
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Post by turbo ka »

theres a s13 ka24de down here with a glide its gone 9.7 so far
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Post by TinyT »

O&Jperformance wrote:The Chevy 10 bolt will be plenty for what I'm doing that's not a problem. I really wanted to use a 9" ford but I'm trying to be as light as possible and the 9 " is little heavier.As far as ring and pinion don't know yet it all depends what I do the gear ratio on the tranny.
how much power/torque are you looking for? the 10 bolts are weaker than you may think
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Post by O&Jperformance »

Ive seem that 10 bolt hold 750 hp to wheels with no problem and seen in car running anywhere from high 7 to low 8 in the 1/4 mile is pretty much the same thing as the 8.8 Ford
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