DIY Emissions Removal SOHC

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sr20what?
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Post by sr20what? »

this is great info
one question, can i ditch the whole charcoal canister and the lines attached to it? I know you answer it but just wanted to check.
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Post by sidwin »

once u dump the charcoal canister there is going to be one line that is used for the gas can to vent. that line i would suggest you find a way to plumb it back into the intake if you don't want to smell the fumes.

I pulled my egr hose and capped it off. i also removed the solenoid that was on the top of the intake manifold.

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sid
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Post by sidwin »

can someone take a pic of the egr solenoid? i got the BPT off and capped all that stuff and i capped off the egr. I wish someone made egr block off plates like the do in the supra and then i could strip that guy off the intake and then plug the exhaust port too.

Thanks,
Sid
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Post by glacier985 »

sidwin wrote:can someone take a pic of the egr solenoid? i got the BPT off and capped all that stuff and i capped off the egr. I wish someone made egr block off plates like the do in the supra and then i could strip that guy off the intake and then plug the exhaust port too.

Thanks,
Sid

The EGR solenoid is about directly underneath the throttlebody if I remember correctly. It's hard to miss.
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nelson240sx
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Post by nelson240sx »

they do make egr block off plates for the ka24e check ebay. I just unbolted the top half of the egr the big ugly part and use the smaller piece that bolts to the throttle body. I took a piece of sheet metal and stuck it in between the intake mani and the egr and bolted it back down. I did that because i am cheap but you could spend i think it is 20$ on ebay and buy one.
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Post by Obsessed »

nelson240sx wrote:they do make egr block off plates for the ka24e check ebay. I just unbolted the top half of the egr the big ugly part and use the smaller piece that bolts to the throttle body. I took a piece of sheet metal and stuck it in between the intake mani and the egr and bolted it back down. I did that because i am cheap but you could spend i think it is 20$ on ebay and buy one.

I believe JGS sells a cap that screw into the exhaust mani to go along with the block off plate.


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Post by 8-bit »

Someone please confirm if most of this can be done on a KA24DE???

I realize that fiznat wrote the KA24DE removal one, but the pics are not there and his thread is reliant on the pics to know what is what...

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Post by Ipang »

4a. SCV actuator (not pictured), since the SCV solenoid was remove, this must be removed. This is located on the back of the intake manifold. It’s on the right side and controls the butterflies. Once it is removed you can do away with them as well. Each one is held in by two screws. Remove all four plates, the small screw in the middle of the intake and then pull the rod out. You can either have the rod holes welded shut or use JB weld.

So since I removed the SCV solenoid I have to remove this?? What happens if I don't??

Also is it neccessary to remove the butterflies as well??
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Post by deftones1868 »

from what i got out of it... yea i would... the butterflies are just gonna sit there... might as well remove them and get some more air flowing faster through there... im doing this tomorrow and just using some jb weld..... ill let you know how easy it really is......
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Post by deftones1868 »

it was a peice of cake
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Post by slydwayz »

i've never really dealt with emissions and vaccuum lines much before, but i jumped into it removing my aiv case except for the metal hose, and the charcoal canister. now im confused about what i do with the 4 lines that come over the fan shroud, and metal vacuum line that goes all the way back to the firewall and then down somewhere, and the little black hose plug that comes out by the opening of the stock bottom side intake box. do i just plug it all off/ i was thinking about using one of the lines as a vacuum source for my bov and wastegate. ive no idea what to do with the rest. any help is greatly appreciated
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Post by glacier985 »

the metal line needs to be left un-plugged and the other vacuum line can be plugged.
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Post by Ipang »

do you just have to shake the crap outta the intake manifold for it to come off

ive undone the 4bolts already
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Post by kingston »

Ok need help. Got the TB off fine (the top part is the throttle body right?)
I'm trying to take the rest of the intake manifold off...took the 4 bolts off on top. The 2 bolts mounted on the black bracket. Are there anymore I need to get? I saw some pics and looks like there are 2 more way underneath. How do you get to those? Help please.

Thanks
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Post by Ipang »

theres actaully 3 more bolts

one is close to the powersteering pump bracket
the other two is directly underneath the fuel rail mounting points
its kinda camoflauged with the manifold

i thought it was underneath too but yea kinda tricky that one


one question for you guys
if i didnt run the coolant lines to the intake plenum or throttel body
will that affect idle in anyway if i start it up in cold weather
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Post by ya0ya0 »

Newbie question;
These removals can apply to a DOHC rite? :D
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Post by merlin240s13 »

k to start off....

there are a number of people on here that be can dicks about questions like this...

not that you're doing anything wrong by asking but try this out.... there is a tab above your alias that says search consider it your best friend. it works like your normal search engine, type in what you want to know, and start reading. it works alot easier for you (not having to wait for replies), and everyone else (not having to repeat everything 100 times)! also I think you will learn alot quicker if you do it this way, as it works well for gathering a lot of general information that you need if you are new to alot of this.

if you type "emission removal" into this search you will find the "DOHC emission removal mystery revealed" thread this is the prominent thread. it has ALOT of useful information in it but the pictures are gone so its kind of a pain in the ass. So download a FSM (factory service manual) online for your chassis (also a must if you are a DIY'r) and use the emissions diagram in that to get the feel on what they are talking about. there are pictures later on in the thread too that will help.

welcome to KA-T.org :)

remember search, search, search, and if you can't find anything typing in varying definitive keywords then ask (trust me you'll learn alot more in a shorter timespan this way, think of it as an instant respond, and don't be afraid to read/scan a lot).
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Post by ya0ya0 »

thank you for being classy about it and not throwing me under the bus :lol:
Do most of you who removed EGR retard timing to compensate for predetnations?
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Post by Baja Bry »

caoboy wrote:for california cars, i believe you can wire up a resistor to fool the egr. even though im in california, i have a federal car (no CEL in the gauge cluster) and i think i could get away without having to put in resistors.
Has anyone had any codes come up when removing the EGR, if so, anyone wire up a resistor to fool the egr and does it wor??

Thanks,
Bry
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Post by Spike »

I am going to remove that stuff this weekend. I wounder how it will run once the engine is turboed?
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Post by merlin240s13 »

After the emissions removal, if you do it correctly, your engine should perform normally (if not better from what I've heard). Although after turboing (which causes more blowby) you should aim your concentration at the PCV system, there are numerous write-ups posted but I think you would gain a better prospective from looking at stock turboed engine in your power range and general operation, i.e. flat-four, inline four, inline six, V.E. ?...
If you tune it correctly you should have good overall emissions anyway. Visual inspections are a different story...
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Post by iamanonymous »

process of elimination....
removed everything in the write up except the parts pictured to keep. did an extensive overhaul to the engine, added turbo, etc, all at the same time. just want to make sure everyone is experiencing NO power loss, rough idling, or excessive popping through exhaust after emissions removal.
thanks
boosting
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Post by Truck »

When I first got my car, I was cleaning of the engine, and broke some wires that went to what I believe to be the pressure regulator solenoid valve. It's located on the back of the valve cover. There are two valves back their with different functions, and it would be the one towards the pass. side. About a week or so later, I was driving home from work, and my exhaust was ultra loud, I had a significant loss in power, and my car had trouble idling. Me and my dad rewired the plug and connected it, and it has happened since.

So when I first came across this thread I was a bit skeptical to put it into practice. I have not yet tried all this, but to be honest it isn't necessary, and it could cause potential problems. However, if one of these valves were to stop functioning, I would look into removing it, not replacing it.

Make sure your timing is correct, and since you are boosting, I don't have much more to say.
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Post by SAKURA »

.....
Last edited by SAKURA on Sun Dec 06, 2009 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by syncline803 »

Ull be hard pressed to keep the volitale emissions beside the exhaust manifold. unless you get a bottom mount....... and take the inlet at the bottom of the exhaust manifold from the stock headers and weld it to the turbo elbow after cutting a hole in it. Its the exhaust recirculating system.
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Post by trini tuner »

I was searching for something else and this came up, i know its an old thread but i have a question - what kind of hp figures can be realized by removing the emissions stuff?
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Post by undesiredshoe »

trini tuner wrote:I was searching for something else and this came up, i know its an old thread but i have a question - what kind of hp figures can be realized by removing the emissions stuff?
Little to none. The whole point is to just remove the clutter.
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Post by trini tuner »

^ :) ok got it. thanks
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Post by frosti108 »

im nominating this for a sticky.

when i 1st put a ka24e in my car, this is the 1st thread i read and the BEST thread as well.
this isnt only for turbo cars. this is good for just stock motors even.


STICKY!
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Post by stealthfighter1 »

i wish this thread was up a few months ago... would have saved me sooo much trouble.
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