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SOHC ARP STUDS

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:02 am
by KA24ETZTM
Ok so I searched SOHC ARP in the search bar and this is a question that is brought up at least 3 times a month, lol. So lets clear up all confusion and vote to sticky this so future SOHC guys can get there answer quick. First off there is no ARP part number in the catalog for a single cam ka. Its an assortment of other studs, nuts and washers. Companies basicly measure call arp and get what they need. Usually sites will have the part number listed like (arp pt # custom)
The part numbers are below for the head studs

ARP KA24E headstud "kit" per Grimsta

Stud: 10 x AM5.100-1LB
Nut: 10 x 300-8344 $4.30
Washer: 10 x 200-8519

****The main studs are exactly the same as any kit for the DOHC****

You can get both main studs and head studs from the guys below

Where to buy
atomicspeedware Link
http://www.atomicspeedware.com/ka24esohc.aspx

O&J Performance Link
http://estore.websitepros.com/1636426/C ... +Fasteners

Phase2Motortrend Link *main stud only*
http://www.phase2motortrend.com/arpmastkitka.html


Hopefully this can clear up some confusion :D

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:08 am
by Jordan Gladman
PS. DOHC KA stud kit works, you just have to back the studs out 2 turns. :wink:

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:19 am
by Mark Washington
165-5401 ARP

Wow I vote yes!

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:18 pm
by KA24ETZTM
Jordan Gladman wrote:PS. DOHC KA stud kit works, you just have to back the studs out 2 turns. :wink:
That may be true but you can buy the set from the places I listed and not have to back anything out. Just tighten them down snug and you still have plenty of stud sticking out. :D

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:23 pm
by Jordan Gladman
True, but I got my cometic and studs for the same price as just the studs on the first link. Its much cheaper to buy a kit.

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:59 pm
by Mark Washington
When you bottom a stud out on any combustion engine the metals will expand
at different rates. This could cause the threads to pull or crack the block ect.

Please dont post how you bottom them out and how fine you have been,
the technacalities I mention are to help not cause drama and start a new subject

wich I kinda just did. :blah: The same goes for mains a turn or two back will be
fine.

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:45 pm
by KA24ETZTM
If you could show me where it says in building engines that you back out studs 2 or 3 turns I would like to see that. Im not saying your wrong just curious. The reason I put that was because people had problems with the studs being to short. How you choose to build your engine is up to you but I have never had problems with the engines Ive built. Lets just stay on topic like you said and get something accomplished that everyone needs. Jordan no offence taken I just wanted everyone to see what there options are. :D Now lets vote to get this stickied :D

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:52 pm
by KA24ETZTM
I asked turbo24sxt if he could sticky we'll see what happens.

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:04 am
by Jordan Gladman
Bottoming a stud is very different than bottoming a bolt. If you hand bottom a stud, you're fine because when you tighten the nut, the stud will pull up out of the block, you arent driving the stud deeper into the block as it tightens. The lubricated nut has much less friction that the stud so the nut will always turn vs the stud therefore this isnt really an issue.

Either way, you can run a SOHC stud kit or a DOHC stud kit, the SOHC kit will give you a few extra threads to play with and makes installing and torquing the nuts a bit easier as you arent having to maintain stud depth when you bring down the nuts.

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 12:32 pm
by KA24ETZTM
Couldnt have explained it better myself. Thanks Jordan :wink:

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 1:23 pm
by Mark Washington
After one install of the 10mm studs they are much longer.
My point was not to crank down on the head studs, hand tight with a slight turn back is good you wont loose any strength.

I use 12mm/12cm studs
AU4.800-1LUB (studs)
300-8307 (NUT)
200-8500 (WASHER)

So far its been ok

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 7:00 pm
by Jackasknissan
studs typially float by design, but by having different thread pitches n each end( by proper definition atleast)
they will have a tendancy to want to tighten a bit.

besides ultamately loosing thread strengh from not having the maximum amount of threads avalable to provide maxuim holding power their is no ill effect. as keep in mind oem head bolts dont bottom out in the hole, so it is likely still a better hold vs oem.

Posted: Sat May 01, 2010 2:10 pm
by Jordan Gladman
The DOHC studs are the exact same length as the OEM bolts, exact same threads into block. :wink:

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 6:58 am
by h240sx
so buying a set of dohc would work just fine for the sohc

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:58 am
by Mark Washington
Yes fine just make sure you have room for the washer and nut by backing off 3 turns or so.

Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 7:14 am
by tom550
O&J Performance Link not working

new: http://www.mcssl.com/store/oandjperform ... ry/5069344

Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:41 pm
by crazypete59
I am Wondering is there ARP studs for the stock intake manifold the reason i ask is because i need new bolts

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:32 pm
by Mark Washington
The thread is M8x1.25

So if ARP is what you think you need call them.

Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:02 pm
by Jordan Gladman
You dont need ARPs for that, just hit up fastenal for some 60mm X 8mm set screws.

Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 4:43 pm
by O&Jperformance
Here is our Main Studs Kit for KA24E

Image

Re: SOHC ARP STUDS

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:59 pm
by Two-Tone
Not one link in this thread works anymore. :/

Re: SOHC ARP STUDS

Posted: Fri May 08, 2015 5:56 am
by Liteemup39496
people should post part numbers not links

Re: SOHC ARP STUDS

Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 5:04 am
by UnknownNugget
I bought my ARP set off ebay part number. 202-4307.
Currently in my ka24et with no issues.