Finally.... Finishing Up My 2 Year Project

Yup, post them single slammers here....
Sock-T
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Finally.... Finishing Up My 2 Year Project

Post by Sock-T »

Ok so i bought an S13 coupe awhile back, the ka24e in it ran ok but not the great. at first i had a decent paying job and parts were coming in a constant flow. Soon i lost that job and have had to just save up money and order parts hear and there. ANYWAYS back to the main reason for this thread.

when i got it, it was completely stock but i wanted to see how long it would last boosted.
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....................it lasted a week Image

so taken stuff apart it didnt look to pretty Image
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ordered these Image

so after this i took the block to a performance machine shop they resurfaced it, bored, honed, mag tested, crank balanced and journals coated, pistons married to the rods.
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paintedImage

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started assembly Image
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so now i need to find someone with an engine hoist and take out the other block that i bought from some guy for 300 that turned out to be bad. The rings on the first cyl were bad and it had no compression.
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and she sits.
Sock-T
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Post by Sock-T »

I also have 1 question about the oilfilter assembly.. in the block before i had them machine it there was a ball and bearing in there and when i got the block back it was like a bran new block nothign in it.. i used a dremil to get the other peice out of the other block but that peice is still stuck in there but the ball bearing and spring made it out.. so now i have the ball bearing and spring but nothing to keep it from poping out of the hole.. ive went to the near by auto shop and they said they have no idea what it is and dont think they stock it. then i went to the closest mechanic and he said he has no idea on how to get the actual part.

heres a pic. I also have all date and looked up the oil pressure regualtor valve but the pictures and location it shows is completely different to where this is ..

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its the top left hold you can see the bearing in there.. ive been looking for things all over the place that migt fit but i havent found anything
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Post by koukidriver »

Looking good
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Post by Sock-T »

thanks !!
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

That ball valve is a bipass valve for when you're filter gets clogged. I had problems with one of mine on an old motor when the ball blasted out of the housing. I just used a screw extractor to get it out and replaced it with a pipe plug.

If you do this, make sure you change your filter on schedule, otherwise you risk blowing up your filter. :lol:
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Sock-T
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Post by Sock-T »

Jordan Gladman wrote:That ball valve is a bipass valve for when you're filter gets clogged. I had problems with one of mine on an old motor when the ball blasted out of the housing. I just used a screw extractor to get it out and replaced it with a pipe plug.

If you do this, make sure you change your filter on schedule, otherwise you risk blowing up your filter. :lol:
thanks!! yeah i have about 3 extra oil filters laying around.. so its ok if its clogged ? I also have an oil pressure sensor i just ordered so if the oil filter suddenly clogged it should show up on the oil PSI right ?
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Post by Sock-T »

Sock-T wrote:
Jordan Gladman wrote:That ball valve is a bipass valve for when you're filter gets clogged. I had problems with one of mine on an old motor when the ball blasted out of the housing. I just used a screw extractor to get it out and replaced it with a pipe plug.

If you do this, make sure you change your filter on schedule, otherwise you risk blowing up your filter. :lol:
thanks!! yeah i have about 3 extra oil filters laying around.. so its ok if its clogged ? I also have an oil pressure sensor i just ordered so if the oil filter suddenly clogged it should show up on the oil PSI right ?
one more question.. what if i just left it unplugged... what would happen? like if i just straight up bolted the oil filter housing back on with the hole just open??/
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Post by di-devol »

Some oil will not be filtered. Don't do that.
SOHC-T: Arias 8.8 Pistons, AMS Sportsman rods w/ ARP rod bolts, Clevite main and rod bearings, Arp main and head studs, Portmatched head, Garrett TO4E 50 trim .60 .63 a/r, Cxracing FMIC-Intercooler piping, Greddy rs bov, Tial 38mm wastegate, Lc-1 WB, Jgs DP, circut sport sr downpipe, CXracing exhaust, O&J stage2 cam, Aem EMS.

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Post by Sock-T »

di-devol wrote:Some oil will not be filtered. Don't do that.
roger that. Ok im gonna go to the parts place one more time ask them the exact same part that was named earliar. If they dont have it ill just plug the hole up and call it a day. i appreciate it alot thank you !!!
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Post by Sock-T »

Hey guys... i have another problem now.... when i bolted the engine to the tranny it seems like the clutches piston that pushes against the fork is not reaching the actual fork.. when i was bleeding the system the fork was soo far out the piston actually popped out and fluid leaked all over.. Its a bran new clutch and the engine is flush with the tranny.. Im not sure why the fork isnt reaching the clutch. I even tried putting a bolt in between the piston and fork to make up for the gap and it almost seemed like the for was already pressed as far as it can go.. Any suggestions ??
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Post by Sock-T »

Ok, got the engine in !! everythings connected and grounded. Image

BUT.. so i was turning it over and it started up for alittle bit but then died.. idk if its timming needs to be done ? or if its just messed up... but ive spent along time on this engine and so much money i hope its nothing fatal. Also.. theres an oil leak that occurs when the engine is turning over. It leaks out right where the engine bolts to the tranny. Ive changed the oil pan gasket and made sure its all sealed.. Im really hoping its not the rear main seal. But i cant imagine what else it could be. but yeah i really would like to get this thing finished im excited but seems like one problem after another for me. Any ideas or suggetions i should do ???
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Post by Bubba »

Rear main is a cake fix and worth getting out the way had you put in a new one while it was out. I can't see why you wouldn't have.
Hoping I missed something and you changed it though. Otherwise I can't imagine what it would be except the pan gasket.
My car is dead stock.... ish

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Post by Sock-T »

BubbaBlak wrote:Rear main is a cake fix and worth getting out the way had you put in a new one while it was out. I can't see why you wouldn't have.
Hoping I missed something and you changed it though. Otherwise I can't imagine what it would be except the pan gasket.
it would be if i had a lift.. i dont wanna pull the engine all the way out again. Kinda sucks cuz my drive way is all gravel so when ever i jack up the car its never safe on dirt and the jack stands usually sink in the dirt. but ill have to figure somthing out.. tomorrow ima try to jack up safely as possible the and have someone crank it and im gonna see if theres anyway i can see exactly where its coming from. maybe i over torqued it and it cracked the gasket. my torque wrench only goes as low as 25 lbs so i just have to go by feel.
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Post by schmauster920 »

25 is wayyy too high for the pan gasket, I torque it down till the cork gasket just barely squishes. You probably bent the pan around the holes by going to 25 as well, not a big deal, and a good learning experience. Better straighten the pan out before reinstalling.



I have always put little squares of ply wood under my jack / stands. Also whats nice, is to get a sheet of used carpet to lay on, floor mat, tarp or something so you arent laying on rocks lol
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Sock-T
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Post by Sock-T »

schmauster920 wrote:25 is wayyy too high for the pan gasket, I torque it down till the cork gasket just barely squishes. You probably bent the pan around the holes by going to 25 as well, not a big deal, and a good learning experience. Better straighten the pan out before reinstalling.



I have always put little squares of ply wood under my jack / stands. Also whats nice, is to get a sheet of used carpet to lay on, floor mat, tarp or something so you arent laying on rocks lol
nah i didnt actually use my torque wrench on it. I just torqued it with hand till it was snug. yeah ive been using carpet. just kinda gets anoying after while just working in that drive way but i guess i have to work with what i got.

(EDIT) ok guys it has to be the rear main seal. i cranked it over this morning and it started to leak.. but then i filled it with more oil and cranked it again till it started up. then i saw it leaking out near the starter lol this sucks gonna need to find someone with a car hoist or somthing cuz i dont wanna pull the engine
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Post by Sock-T »

KA4LIFE
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Post by KA4LIFE »

thats leaking more than a little oil get that fixed asap and it sounds like you got yourself one of those special 2 or 3 cylinder motors. have you checked your timing? do you have fuel, spark, compression across the board? i wouldnt run that until you get it situated or at least fix the oil leak..
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Post by khmer1 »

how much boost was you running when it blew up also looks like the cxracing kit right also did you do any fuel management etc. i neeedd too know since im have that same kit but i mostly upgrade everything
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Post by XMcEvilson »

that sucks man, hope you get it figured out...
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Post by jburgess86 »

Hey build looks good. Where you able to fix that running issue yet? Are you able to get it running long enough to put a timing light on it?

If it fires up and sounds perfectly normal then quickly cuts off it might not be related to ignition timing. Does it hesitate real bad then slowly die out? If your still having some problems let us know more about it so we can help ya out. Like what ya changed since your last build, etc?

Looks nice though good luck
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Post by jburgess86 »

oh... just saw the video. Yea def not firing all cylinders. And which ever one is firing the timing is off. but still hard to tell if your not there.

If valve timing is perfect and you where 180 degrees out and installed dizzy and oil pump, you should just drop your oil pump and dizzy and redo it.

The oil pump and shaft are always a bi*ch to get on the dot, I usually have to drop mine twice to get it perfect.
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Post by Sock-T »

KA4LIFE wrote:thats leaking more than a little oil get that fixed asap and it sounds like you got yourself one of those special 2 or 3 cylinder motors. have you checked your timing? do you have fuel, spark, compression across the board? i wouldnt run that until you get it situated or at least fix the oil leak..
yeah i was just trying to be sarcastic but i guess it wasnt that funny... but yeah i have my timing off pretty bad.. when i put the head on i thought it was on the compression stroke but its the oposite so i basically turned it over till number 1 hits compression stroke and the distributar was 180 deg out so i just am gonna try switch spark wires around and hope that works for me. the rear main oil seal has to be out because when i poured more oil in it to crank it over again .. the oil started to leak out of the starter.. it has to be coming out the rear main and getting on the flywheel and tossing the oil onto the starter.



(EDIT) ok i wanna give a list of the cars specs so you guys know the car,

cx turbo kit t3t4 turbo

arais pistons ( slightly bored )

Eagle rods

rebuild head

welded diff

strut bar front/rear

255 lph fuel pump

tuned ecu eprom

gauges: boost/oilpressure/A-F ratio

fuel pressure regulator

370 cc injectors ( venom)

block and all internals were machined to work with each other perfectly. the block is refinished to new spec.

after martket oil cooler
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Post by jburgess86 »

ok I got ya.

Before you install your head, there really is no compression stroke. Your block doesnt know if the #1 piston is coming up to compress air and fuel or coming up to push out exhaust.

As long as #1 piston is all the way at the top, and your head is in its TDC compression postition your good (and you line up the marks on your chain).

If your number one piston is at the bottom then you installed your head and then turned it over to compensate for the 180 degress off, then your valve timing is gunna be off, plus ignition timing. Your #1 piston will be coming up to compress air and fuel but your exhaust valve will be open or opening. (not sure if this is what you did)

Chances are your #1 piston was at the top when you installed your head and you did that all correctly, Then turned it over 180 degrees because you thought you did it wrong. but now your #1 piston is at the bottom when you installed your dizzy and oil pump. and you are on the power stroke.


Rotate the engine back at TDC, check pulley mark, check that the cam gear notch is straight up. Take your cap off your dizzy and the rotor is probably pointing half way before number #1 position. like between 2 and 1 on your dizzy cap. As in a quarter turn off. Engine rotates 720 degrees for 360 degrees on you dizzy.

im sure ya did this, but did you check all your timing chain marks to your gear marks?
Let me know how it turns out hopefully this helped.
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Post by Sock-T »

jburgess86 wrote:ok I got ya.

Before you install your head, there really is no compression stroke. Your block doesnt know if the #1 piston is coming up to compress air and fuel or coming up to push out exhaust.

As long as #1 piston is all the way at the top, and your head is in its TDC compression postition your good (and you line up the marks on your chain).

If your number one piston is at the bottom then you installed your head and then turned it over to compensate for the 180 degress off, then your valve timing is gunna be off, plus ignition timing. Your #1 piston will be coming up to compress air and fuel but your exhaust valve will be open or opening. (not sure if this is what you did)

Chances are your #1 piston was at the top when you installed your head and you did that all correctly, Then turned it over 180 degrees because you thought you did it wrong. but now your #1 piston is at the bottom when you installed your dizzy and oil pump. and you are on the power stroke.


Rotate the engine back at TDC, check pulley mark, check that the cam gear notch is straight up. Take your cap off your dizzy and the rotor is probably pointing half way before number #1 position. like between 2 and 1 on your dizzy cap. As in a quarter turn off. Engine rotates 720 degrees for 360 degrees on you dizzy.

im sure ya did this, but did you check all your timing chain marks to your gear marks?
Let me know how it turns out hopefully this helped.
thanks, yeah the piston was TDC when i put the head on and im just glad theres no valve knock lol. Cuz this is basically my first project car so im learning as i go. the only engine ive ever complretely built was in auto class building a 350 engine witch is simple as it gets. so when i was building this motor i wanted to make sure im doing it right considering i have no professional help. after i torqued the head down i installed the oil pump and distributor with it tdc still. but so... the oil pump also is timed ? im just hoping i didnt ruin anything.
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Post by jburgess86 »

ok just try what I said about rotating the engine back to TDC, checking the cam gear position, and pulley TDC mark, etc. Then pull the dizzy cap and let me know what cylinder its pointing at or between.


Your oil pump does not having timing, but it directly drives your dizzy. The gear on crank runs the oil pump, and that shaft from the oil pump goes up threw the front cover to run your dizzy. You have to take both out to reset it correctly.

1) Did you align the 2 marks on your timing chain to the according marks on the cam gear and crank sprocket? (Because if you didnt do this you have to go back even further)

2) What cylinder is the Dizzy rotor pointing to when at TDC? (asked above)

3) Is the Cam Gear notch point up when you have engine at TDC?
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Post by Sock-T »

jburgess86 wrote:ok just try what I said about rotating the engine back to TDC, checking the cam gear position, and pulley TDC mark, etc. Then pull the dizzy cap and let me know what cylinder its pointing at or between.


Your oil pump does not having timing, but it directly drives your dizzy. The gear on crank runs the oil pump, and that shaft from the oil pump goes up threw the front cover to run your dizzy. You have to take both out to reset it correctly.

1) Did you align the 2 marks on your timing chain to the according marks on the cam gear and crank sprocket? (Because if you didnt do this you have to go back even further)

2) What cylinder is the Dizzy rotor pointing to when at TDC? (asked above)

3) Is the Cam Gear notch point up when you have engine at TDC?
dizzy rotor means the rotor in the distributor right ? its at tdc now and it was pointing the exact opposite of where i had number one when i was assembling the engine. i had to buy a new distributor cap cuz the last one broke. so when i put this one on, on the bottom right there was a number 1 sign on it so i put the first plug there.. but i asked my uncle he said to turn the engine over till the first piston pushes air out. then see where the rotor is pointing and it was pointing the opposite of where i had it. As far as timming marks on the chain. there wasnt any at all.. it was a bran new chain and there wasnt any silver marks or punches in it. ill have to check the cam gear in a few mins and see where its at cuz the engine is still tdc
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Post by jburgess86 »

Yea thats the rotor inside the dizzy cap.

hmm well the timing chain should have 2 different color links, or maybe a small indent on two of them. This is very important because you can be off by one link and it will still look normal, but your valve timing will be off.

was the chain a stock Nissan Chain?

Leave your engine at TDC and let me know if that notch on your cam gear is pointing striaght up, the notch is closest to the bolt that holds the gear onto the Camshaft.

**Dont confuse with the notch on the outer edge of the cam gear, by the teeth, used for aligning your timing chain**

Ill try and post some pics later for you.
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Post by jburgess86 »

Image



I have a feeling your off a tooth on your timing chain as well

But if not, leave your engine in this position then drop oil pump and DIzzy and reinstall.

Keep doin this untill your rotor lines up just before #1 spark position, with your dizzy clocked in the center so you have room each way to rotate your dizzy.
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Post by Sock-T »

jburgess86 wrote:Image



I have a feeling your off a tooth on your timing chain as well

But if not, leave your engine in this position then drop oil pump and DIzzy and reinstall.

Keep doin this untill your rotor lines up just before #1 spark position, with your dizzy clocked in the center so you have room each way to rotate your dizzy.
yeah the head came off of another ka but it was freshly rebuilt. when i was installing the chain i was looking for those 2 diff colored or indents on the links. i did not see any what so ever. now im nervious to look under there cuz if its something fatal like if the valve has been hitting the pistons im just gonna get rid of the car cuz i cant afford anything else really.
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Post by Sock-T »

ok guys, took the valve cover off and i thin its almost TDC. the reason i say that is cuz this is where the mark is.

Image

but also some dissapointment.
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im not happy about that cuz that means theres water gettin in my oil somewhere.... not happy about it at all.. and this is a pic of the head

Image
as you can see it is a bran new head and the chain thats on it did not have any marks or im pressions that allow you to align the chains indents with the cams indents.

ok guys i got my breaker bar out and turned the engine over by hand till the number 1 piston reached the very top. this is what it looks like.

Image

Image

im still worried about the white **** in the oil.. that does mean water right ?
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