Ponda's Single Slammer Build Thread
Few more months of progress. I haven't had much free time lately but every chance I get I've been trying to work on it. I'm getting really close - just need a few more things to finish it up.
Everybody loves pics...so here's a few.
Finally got the holes cut out for my piping and all of that mounted up.
My biggest obstacle was making a downpipe. I've never fabricated anything like this so it was a big learning experience. I never expected it to turn out as good as it did.
Plenty of clearance
QUESTION: I'm a little confused about where my MAF should go. I'm running an open BOV - so will my MAF still be okay on the intake?
Everybody loves pics...so here's a few.
Finally got the holes cut out for my piping and all of that mounted up.
My biggest obstacle was making a downpipe. I've never fabricated anything like this so it was a big learning experience. I never expected it to turn out as good as it did.
Plenty of clearance
QUESTION: I'm a little confused about where my MAF should go. I'm running an open BOV - so will my MAF still be okay on the intake?
BOV to Atmoshpere - Run after BOV typically on cold side.
Looking good. Keep it up.
Looking good. Keep it up.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
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- 240sx Wannabe
- Posts: 128
- Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:04 pm
- Location: Florida
Hey Ponda the build is looking nice! I met you on ebay you were asking about my JWT ecu. Did ya figure out what your going to go with?
With the Maf question it should be mounted around 18" from the inlet of the turbo, some run it a lot closer. But some mafs you can mount before the throttle body, what kind you using? When I used my JWT ecu with z32maf , recirculating the BOV was way a better option. Runs rich in betweeen shifts when you vent to atmosphere. Some times it would cut out. Try it out you could be fine I guess lower boost it wouldnt be as noticable.
well good luck with the setup. pm me if ya have any questions bout the JWT
With the Maf question it should be mounted around 18" from the inlet of the turbo, some run it a lot closer. But some mafs you can mount before the throttle body, what kind you using? When I used my JWT ecu with z32maf , recirculating the BOV was way a better option. Runs rich in betweeen shifts when you vent to atmosphere. Some times it would cut out. Try it out you could be fine I guess lower boost it wouldnt be as noticable.
well good luck with the setup. pm me if ya have any questions bout the JWT
QUESTION: I'm almost ready to bust this thing. Should I try and start the engine with the 550's and walbro with the stock ECU settings? Just wanting to make sure everything is somewhat working correctly before I send off my ECU.
Or should I drop the stock injectors and fuel pump back in and try and start it?
Or should I drop the stock injectors and fuel pump back in and try and start it?
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- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:35 am
- Location: North Jersey
all you need is stock injectors. walbro is fine as is.
just to be safe dont try and drive it . you can start and free rev it make sure all sounds ok. just dont try an drive it.
great work dude, finished product looks like its gonna be lots of fun once you get the tune and clutch setup broken in
just to be safe dont try and drive it . you can start and free rev it make sure all sounds ok. just dont try an drive it.
great work dude, finished product looks like its gonna be lots of fun once you get the tune and clutch setup broken in
'89 KAe-T Coupe - on the road to a goal of 400whp with A/C
'91 Hatch - VH45 powered, track duty
'05 Titan - I/H/E VK56 - Tow rig and Daily
Single Jingle love
'91 Hatch - VH45 powered, track duty
'05 Titan - I/H/E VK56 - Tow rig and Daily
Single Jingle love
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- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:35 am
- Location: North Jersey
the lil round sensor next to the maf on DS is usually scrapped,
the sensor that goes into the lower rad hose is the (oh snap) temp sensor for the stock SOHC a/c fan, usually replaced for an aftermarket temp sensor
the sensor that goes into the lower rad hose is the (oh snap) temp sensor for the stock SOHC a/c fan, usually replaced for an aftermarket temp sensor
'89 KAe-T Coupe - on the road to a goal of 400whp with A/C
'91 Hatch - VH45 powered, track duty
'05 Titan - I/H/E VK56 - Tow rig and Daily
Single Jingle love
'91 Hatch - VH45 powered, track duty
'05 Titan - I/H/E VK56 - Tow rig and Daily
Single Jingle love
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:35 am
- Location: North Jersey
yes the one the plugs in to the lower rad hose is useless sure you could plug it in but it will not do anything, infact 80% of the sensors on a stock ka can be removed and it would barely effect how the car runs, as long as its timed and idle is set car will run perfect with just O2/MAF/TPS installed
btw im sure you mentioned it but i must have missed it, whats your tuning solution going to be?
btw im sure you mentioned it but i must have missed it, whats your tuning solution going to be?
'89 KAe-T Coupe - on the road to a goal of 400whp with A/C
'91 Hatch - VH45 powered, track duty
'05 Titan - I/H/E VK56 - Tow rig and Daily
Single Jingle love
'91 Hatch - VH45 powered, track duty
'05 Titan - I/H/E VK56 - Tow rig and Daily
Single Jingle love
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- Learners Permit
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:52 pm
- Location: Medford
I believe I made a royal screw up. I upgraded to a stage 2 clutch and didn't install the new throwout bearing that came with the kit...I tried switching it but it was a pain to get out so I left the OEM one in.
Anybody else done the same?
While I was researching how to bleed my clutch I found a thread where a guy said he broke his fork because a guy installed an aftermarket clutch but left the OEM bearing in. Didn't say how beefy the new clutch was, though. The stage 2 isn't that much beefier over stock so maybe the OEM bearing will be fine?
Anybody else done the same?
While I was researching how to bleed my clutch I found a thread where a guy said he broke his fork because a guy installed an aftermarket clutch but left the OEM bearing in. Didn't say how beefy the new clutch was, though. The stage 2 isn't that much beefier over stock so maybe the OEM bearing will be fine?
Well...after finding out I had my fuel lines reversed I was able to start the engine. It wasn't idleing quite right and I believe it was flooding out / missing. However, it WAS starting every time I turned the key.
/begin troubles
I got out and started checking my grounds and hoses. Didn't change a thing. Got back in the car and it hasn't started ever since. Not one single thing changed - and I'm stumped.
Anyone care to verify I'm correct on the following? I'm starting to think my timing may be out of whack.
1). At TDC on the cam gear - my timing mark on the crank is at 15 degrees (second mark from the left). Is this correct?
2). If that is correct, once I take off the distributor cap - the rotor should be pointing at no. 1 cylinder, right? Mine is pointing about halfway between 2 and 1 so that's why I'm thinking I have a problem. I can only compensate by turning the distributor as far right as possible and that only gets me half way between 2 and 1 cylinder.
It's also backfiring through the intake so I guess it's definitely a timing issue.
/begin troubles
I got out and started checking my grounds and hoses. Didn't change a thing. Got back in the car and it hasn't started ever since. Not one single thing changed - and I'm stumped.
Anyone care to verify I'm correct on the following? I'm starting to think my timing may be out of whack.
1). At TDC on the cam gear - my timing mark on the crank is at 15 degrees (second mark from the left). Is this correct?
2). If that is correct, once I take off the distributor cap - the rotor should be pointing at no. 1 cylinder, right? Mine is pointing about halfway between 2 and 1 so that's why I'm thinking I have a problem. I can only compensate by turning the distributor as far right as possible and that only gets me half way between 2 and 1 cylinder.
It's also backfiring through the intake so I guess it's definitely a timing issue.
Just in case anyone is following, it was a timing issue. Running well now (won't idle unless I keep my foot at a constant throttle - probably need to adjust my idle now).
Here's what I did to correct it:
1. Set engine to TDC (top dead center). The crank should be on the 2nd tooth from the left and the cam keyway should be pointing at 12 o' clock. My engine timing was fine but my ignition timing was all screwed up.
2. Once I was at TDC I pulled off my dist. cap and the rotor was actually pointing between 3 and 4. It should be pointing at no. 1 spark plug wire. That explains the backfiring.
3. I removed my oil pump and distributor and aligned everything to point at no. 1 plug. Started right up.
Now I have to figure out where this horrible exhaust leak is coming from.
Here's what I did to correct it:
1. Set engine to TDC (top dead center). The crank should be on the 2nd tooth from the left and the cam keyway should be pointing at 12 o' clock. My engine timing was fine but my ignition timing was all screwed up.
2. Once I was at TDC I pulled off my dist. cap and the rotor was actually pointing between 3 and 4. It should be pointing at no. 1 spark plug wire. That explains the backfiring.
3. I removed my oil pump and distributor and aligned everything to point at no. 1 plug. Started right up.
Now I have to figure out where this horrible exhaust leak is coming from.
Hmm...having a little issue. Getting quite a bit of smoke when I rev the engine up a bit. I ran the engine until warm at idle, shut the car off and disconnected the oil feed. Oil was actually coming up out of the inlet. I disconnected the drain and no signs of blockage...I could also tell oil was making it's way down the drain.
So...I'm thinking I may need a restrictor? Any thoughts?
So...I'm thinking I may need a restrictor? Any thoughts?
Run a restrictor. Even with a restrictor, you will be amazed of how much oil still comes out.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
Generally, .035 is for BB and .065 is non BB. I run a .065 on my journal. I tried not running one on my 60 trim but smoked a little bit. Went to a .065 and no issues even after changing to another turbo.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
Hmm...I'm kind of confused now. Turns out I was running a restrictor so I'm not sure why it's smoking so bad.
Here's what happened:
Started engine and let run until warm. I'm having an idle issue so I've been feathering the pedal to keep it running. Motor sounded fine and then all of a sudden I was seeing a lot of smoke. Kept the car running for a bit and it kept smoking so I shut it off to inspect.
I bumfuddled around for a minute or two before pulling the oil feed line off. When I did, oil started overflowing out of the feed inlet - that part just seems odd to me. Shouldn't that be draining pretty quickly? I went ahead and took the drain hose off and oil was definitely passing through and there are no blockages.
Engine compression is fine so I'm almost positive this is a turbo issue. It's a cheapie turbo so I guess the seals could be bad. I'm not sure if it is a journal or ball bearing. Is there a way to check?
Here's what happened:
Started engine and let run until warm. I'm having an idle issue so I've been feathering the pedal to keep it running. Motor sounded fine and then all of a sudden I was seeing a lot of smoke. Kept the car running for a bit and it kept smoking so I shut it off to inspect.
I bumfuddled around for a minute or two before pulling the oil feed line off. When I did, oil started overflowing out of the feed inlet - that part just seems odd to me. Shouldn't that be draining pretty quickly? I went ahead and took the drain hose off and oil was definitely passing through and there are no blockages.
Engine compression is fine so I'm almost positive this is a turbo issue. It's a cheapie turbo so I guess the seals could be bad. I'm not sure if it is a journal or ball bearing. Is there a way to check?
Yea cheap chinese turbo. It happens. Get an HX35. I did.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel