oem grade bearings or aftermarket

Yup, post them single slammers here....
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Supports
NooB
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:12 pm

oem grade bearings or aftermarket

Post by Supports »

I'm in the middle of planning out a standard rebuild (ka24e) D21, the engine has 270k miles on it, compression is 155/1, 153/2, 154/3, 155/4...not great but minimum is 144 so the rings or valve seats need attention, oil pressure is a little suspect also....worn bearings

I have a lot of lifter noise, even after pulling the lifters to clean them, oem rocker replacements are too spendy to justify their individual cost and one of the cam lobes is scored....so I opted to get a refurbished head instead, but the short block looks good, but the rings and bearing are worn and need to be replaced, but the crank journals are in good condition so I really do not see the need to have them machined, I'm here asking confirmation concerning oem graded versus aftermarket bearings, I know how to find the stampings on the block and crank.....if I choose not to have the crank machined I must use oem graded bearings specific to my crank, rods and block, correct? the aftermarket standard kits will not work unless I have the journals machined?

Thanks
Kat2in4the0hat
NooB
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Dec 25, 2013 5:02 am
Location: Brooklyn NY

Re: oem grade bearings or aftermarket

Post by Kat2in4the0hat »

Say spend the money on getting aftermarket acl bearings and having the crank machined, also get a better piston ring set with a nice coating for added protection. That answers your general question. Since your under there a nice set of arp head and rod bolts hopefully won't hurt the pockets for added strength and protection.
If man can build it, man can fix it, man can make it better!!!
Supports
NooB
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:12 pm

Re: oem grade bearings or aftermarket

Post by Supports »

Yeah I decided to just take it to a machinist and have the cylinders bored and honed, and the crank journals polished and mic'd for a some tri metal bearings, ummm arp head studs would be pretty over kill on a oe engine, I 'm just going to replace the ttyl head bolts, this engine will never see boost it is my parts getter and get to work every day vehicle that supports my seasonal hard parked 500whp boosted garage queen.

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for a boosted engine I use A1 h11 or ARP l19, the regular arp m10 studs will lift beyond 25psi
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