Green loctite, has anyone used this stuff before?

[cleantune]

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Hi everyone, Just wondering if anyone has used this stuff before....



I think I'm having some trouble getting it to dry or cure. I say "I think" because I have not confirmed that 100% of the green loctite is dry, but the stuff on the surface is wet and it has been for about 4-5 days now. Let me know what you think, or what you would do.


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[airman]

Hmm, the TDS on Threadlocker Green says full cure in 24 hours.

What are you using it on?

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... een-detail

[cleantune]

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Yeah, thats what I read too. This is really weird. I was thinking it would just dry up eventually.
This green 290 loctite is being used on wheel bolts/nuts for 3-peice wheels. I noticed a green thread locker compound splashed on top of the bolts before they were disassembled and the bolt size and breakaway torque rating for the green 290 loctite was within range of the 27-28ft/lbs needed (permatex's breakaway torque rating was slightly lower on the package label if I remember correctly; not that it matters THAT much, it was just a deciding factor on which to pick up). In addition to this, you know how applying threadlocker prior to torquing can lead to overtorquing... I just figured green thread locker is "wicking grade" and usually always applied after torquing, so it was a pretty safe guess that the torque values given were for dry bolts/ nuts....maybe? idunno.

few short facts about this little project:
-loctite is new and bottle was fully sealed (exp 12/15)
-the loctite bottle was shook before it was used
-bolts and nuts are stainless m7
-bolts were meticulously cleaned one by one with isopropyl alcohol to remove oil and other contaminants and then again the same way.
-the wet green loctite on some of the bolts had changed to an amber color and also still wet

**tonight, the green loctite resting on the nut is still wet, so I tried adding some heat to the nut and bolt assemblies. The theory being that maybe the loctite needs more metal to react with? In the pdf about the product they mentioned heating the metal parts to open metal pores (during expansion) so that the loctite would take/ bond better to the hardware. So more pores, more surface area, more metal to react with.

After this It remained wet, so I dabbed off the excess loctite and put a little heat on the nut/bolt assemblies again (not much, just a few passes about 4-5 inches away with a heatgun). I noticed some possible dry loctite in the seam between the nuts and bolts, since some remained after the papertowel had soaked up the excess on top of the bolt. The plan is to leave it like this for about 24hrs and then check its dryness with a toothpick or something sharp. I'll post the results in a day or so.


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[cleantune]

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Alright, so, a day or so ago I stuck a piece of paper in between the nut and bolt (one of the nuts/bolts that I had dabbed off the excess and used a heat gun to help dry. The paper soaked the green 290 loctite right up. This stuff is STILL WET about 2 weeks later. The only thing I can think of is that the box and the loctite was warm when the mail was delivered, so maybe this spoiled it?

So, I'm kind of stuck on what to do. All the bolts/nuts (160) have been torqued in three stages in a quarterly fashion (like one would torque a 4 lug wheel, but then moving one bolt to the right after each 4-set...a serious PITA to do, making sure the nut doesnt spin and the bolt heads are not damaged by the socket). The nuts are "locking-type" nuts (see pic below). Half of me wants to just soak up whatever amount of loctite that will come off and then just put some new blue loctite around the top of the nut and let that seep into the threads, but then the other half of me says just take them apart and re do it, but this time test the locking compound first.

I dunno what do you guys and girls think? What would you do?



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[cleantune]

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Just wanted to add some CLOSURE to this thread.

I told a local hardware store about this "problem" so they tested it with some of their own new green 290 loctite and a stainless steel nut and bolt. The loctite was applied to the threads of the bolt and the nut was put on finger tight, so that it could easily spin off.

***After about 5 hours the green loctite on the exposed threads and around the top of the nut was still wet, BUT due to the the anaerobic (absence of oxygen) nature of this loctite (and most other loctite thread lockers), the once loose nut was now tight on the bolt to a point that neither of us could twist it off. Only the loctite between the threads had cured.****

Later, I tried this same "loose nut on bolt" experiment with a dirty nut and bolt as well as a clean nut and bolt using the excess green loctite that was left on top of the wheel nut and bolt assemblies. About 15 hours later the dirty nut remained on the bolt with light pressure, but eventually broke free; however the clean nut remained tight on the bolt with more pressure than was used for the dirty nut and bolt.

The cool thing too is that the clean nut and bolt used in this experiment were previously used as thread cleaners (bult had a groove cut down the length of its threads and the nut was missing a piece of one of its sides. These missing sections were set opposite to each other during the experiment. This experiment supports that the green loctite 290 doesn't have to be around a "continuous thread", it just needs to be between a tight thread junction, so that it can push out any air, allowing an oxygen-free environment for it to cure.

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[hersheskuirt]

I work for Trane as a HVAC mechanic, we use loctite 515 at work on chiller rebuilds as a gasket maker. It reacts the same way. Once you assemble the parts the 515 dries. If you leave it exposed it will never dry.

[cleantune]

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^ Thanks for the info. The more info the better. I called Henkel, the company that owns loctite, and left a message. They never got back to me. I'm assuming they only cater to larger businesses, not personal problems haha.

I guess the only way to really test the viability of the product is to check the date on the bottle, shake the bottle well and then use a small amount of the stuff on either the same or similar material.

Oh and just for the record (and to summarize), to correct misinformation out there on the internet about the 290 loctite:
-This stuff worked after about 4 hours of cure time for a new stainless steel larger (than m7) bolt/nut
-after about 10 hours of cure time this stuff worked on the 70% isopropyl alcohol cleaned surface of m7 stainless steel bolts and nuts
-partially worked on a dirty unprepared bolt and nut (after breaking the nut free and screwing the nut back on the loctite seems to be working to a strength similar to the cleaned nut/bolt; although I highly recommend cleaning the bolt first)

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[erich]

It's a common myth that loctite is anerobic. Put it in a vacuum and it won't cure either.
Loctite uses the free ions from certain metals (of which stainless has almost none) to trigger the cure.
If you try it on regular steel you'll find it cures just fine.

[Thomasd83]

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Alright, so, a day or so ago I stuck a piece of paper in between the nut and bolt (one of the nuts/bolts that I had dabbed off the excess and used a heat gun to help dry. The paper soaked the green 290 loctite right up. This stuff is STILL WET about 2 weeks later. The only thing I can think of is that the box and the loctite was warm when the mail was delivered, so maybe this spoiled it?

So, I'm kind of stuck on what to do. All the bolts/nuts (160) have been torqued in three stages in a quarterly fashion (like one would torque a 4 lug wheel, but then moving one bolt to the right after each 4-set...a serious PITA to do, making sure the nut doesnt spin and the bolt heads are not damaged by the socket). The nuts are "locking-type" nuts (see pic below) rachat de credit travaux. Half of me wants to just soak up whatever amount of loctite that will come off and then just put some new blue loctite around the top of the nut and let that seep into the threads, but then the other half of me says just take them apart and re do it, but this time test the locking compound first.

I dunno what do you guys and girls think? What would you do?



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However, do not over-tighten as this may break the bolt.

[fisunana56]

I have used it several times and it is too easy to use this product. I think you are not using it accurately or maybe you have no experience of how to apply it simply. Anyhow, let’s solve your problem then,
● Open it carefully.
● Apply 2 or 3 drops
● Move the equipment so that the liquid goes to the overall surface.
I hope this process will help you to use this product very effectively. Sill if you are facing any problems then you can get guidance on youtube. By watching the use of this product maybe you will be able to use it more productively. For more indexblogger visits this website.