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Built KA-T with Holset H1C dyno numbers
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:31 am    Post subject: Built KA-T with Holset H1C dyno numbers Reply with quote
Im going to the dyno today. Anybody want to guess my numbers. I will post up this afternoon and let you know the results. Heres what I got

CP 9:1 pistons
JWT cams
850cc injectors
Z32 MAF
Enthalpy tune

Im gunna run 20lbs of boost..... any guesses are welcome...
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killab18
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
im going with 400's
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Doba
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
guessing by the injector size, and psi and turbo im guessing 448 whp
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Miami240
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
at 20psi i say 380-390whp
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
sorry I forgot to say its on a mustang dyno too. Thanks for the replies, keep em coming
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Spud5251
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
im going to say 413 whp and 362lbs of torque
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95 240sx SE (one day KA-T)

Engine: Z32 MAFS, Injen Intake, Pacesetter Header, 3 Inch Magnaflow Hi-Flo Cat, 3 inch RSR Exmag Exhaust, BC Stage 2 Cams
Brakes: Z32 30mm Brakes.
Suspension: Tein Superdrift Coilovers,Tein Pillowball Tension Rods, Tein Inner and Outter Tie Rods, Cusco Adj Rear Camber Arms, Cusco Adj Toe Arms, Cusco Adj Traction Rods, Nismo Power Brace,Splparts Solid Diff and Subframe Bushings.
Wheels: Stock and Z32 TT Wheels
DriveTrain: Kaaz 2 Way LSD, OBX Short Shifter
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
OK so heres the deal. Got on the dyno.

260ish whp and 240ish wtq

What the hell is wrong with my car. It sure as hell feels faster than that. The a/f ratios were in the 10.5's. But I dont think that changing that will affect it 100whp. What should I start checking. The guy at the dyno thought for sure it has something to do with timing. I have the timing set at 20 at idle like im supposed to but I can see anything from there. Any suggestions/theorys
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
on a side not. Ive read a couple threads on here about people being unhappy with their duno numbers because they had blow thru. I have blow through and it seems to be working fine. The MAF has nothing to do with timing correct??? Or Am I wrong
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Was Scott informed that this was a blow through setup?

Log total timing under a full pull. Pull AFR out of the 10s. Anything above 11 and below 12 works for your boost level.

BTW, what is your full setup?
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I did mention it was blow thru and they just said they didnt recomment it. How am I supposed to log timing???? Thanks for the reply by the way. I know I need to adjust the af ratio but theres no way thats stealing over 100whp....
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Full setup is

CP 9 to 1
AMS rods
JWT cams
850cc deautchwerk injectors
Z32 MAF
H1C turbo
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
ok, keep the thoughts coming but what about my cams. I just dropped them in, no adjustable gears or anything. Is that ok to do with the JWT cams???
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1wheelwonder
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Efeezi or Elks cannot remember which one had a similiar setup to you (subtract Enthalpy and add custom dsm engine managment) and had the same issue as you, he ran 25psi (I think) and made 275rwhp, If I'm not mistaken his cams were not correctly lined up, don't hold me too that, but find his dyno results page for further info.
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What's next, hmmmmmmmmm? Maybe whatever's in this huge crate holds the key to this answer.
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nissanfanatic
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Get the Blazt datascan software. Or just hold a timing light on it while you are on the dyno. You could also borrow some kind of monitoring tool(Techtom MDM-100) ect.

Manifold?
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efeezi
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
1wheelwonder wrote:
Efeezi or Elks cannot remember which one had a similiar setup to you (subtract Enthalpy and add custom dsm engine managment) and had the same issue as you, he ran 25psi (I think) and made 275rwhp, If I'm not mistaken his cams were not correctly lined up, don't hold me too that, but find his dyno results page for further info.


275 at 4000rpms maybe Laughing My H1C made 411whp at 15psi and 411whp at 20psi meaning the turbo is past its efficiency range at that psi.

Which exhaust housing are you running?
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Im running a 16cm housing. I had 20lbs of boost by 4600. I just dont know whats wrong. I was hoping for way better results. Anybody got any ideas for me. If the cams were off a tooth or something wouldnt it run like ass??
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
and I have an ssautocrack manifold
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efeezi
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I had the 12cm housing. Post up a pic of your turbo because there are a few different H1C's. Its possible you may have one of the less efficient H1C's.

Probably wouldnt hurt to go over your cam timing again either if your concerned.
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NateDogg
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I had my cams messed up once and I didnt even know it. I couldnt pass emissions and then I found out my cams were off a tooth. I forgot to use a monkey wrench to turn the cam before I installed the sprocket so the intake was off a tooth or two IIRC..This is a fairly common mistake Laughing

You dont really NEED cam gears for JWT cams but you must at least get the cams on the right tooth.
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seanc
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
hmmm maybe thats my problem.
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elks240
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yea that was me with crower cams. I had issues with them they were off a 1/2 tooth and I lost 100whp from it. I put stock cams back in and gained the 100 horses back. When I installed them, I didn't have the intake lined up correctly and it smashed the dowel pin in. The cam must have turned a little bit when I was tightening up the bolt on the cam. So I would recomend at least double checking the cams and making sure the same thing didn't happen to you. And if it did I would order another cam cause it may have cracked it and you don't want it to come apart in the engine. My cam actually snapped in half when I took it to the machine shop to have a new dowel pin put in.

Or as efeezi says it may have something to do with the turbo, ( he knows his holset's Very Happy )

Cause even with a/f's in the 10's that shouldn't cause a 100 horse loss. Maybe 40 at the most.

Just some thoughts.
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I dont know if its the cams. When I first started myt motor and drove it after rebuild, It would take forever to start and it was hella slow. I found out the cams were off. I moved each a tooth over and now it starts up right away and its got power. Is it possible they are still off. Will the car run " well " even if the cams are still off. I mean, it drives fine around town, seem to have some power. I got 28mpg last tank too on the freeway. I will check my cams again today if I have a chance. But like I said, my main question with this is. Even if they are still off, would the car run well?????
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efeezi
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
If its off 1 tooth it will run fine, it'll just be lacking power.

Still wondering about your turbo. You got any pics of it?
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I can get some pics of it. I looked at it further and the comp housing says WH1C. Is there a difference????
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
If they are off. Which way should I move them. Im assuming if its lacking power they are retarded a tooth so which way should they go, or one go???? When I moved them before it looked exactly like the picture on JWT's page. But im down to not so many options here so this could be it[/img]
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
nuther question. What if the inner chain is off a tooth or two???? what kind of conditions would that cause??
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Why would it be off..??

Just time it correctly the first time and that branch of the tree is gone..
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efeezi
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes there is a difference, some have **** compressor wheels. If you have the one with a 4" surge ported intlet you probably have the correct one.

Does yours look like this
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
nissanfanatic..... Im just sayin, what if. When I put the motor back together I double and thriple checked the marks and made sure it was good. But its just a what if. Im just trying to get this figured out

efeezi..... No, it does not look like that. That thing is ugly
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
All the "what if's" in the world aren't gonna change anything. The only way you will know for sure is to re-time it... So, the question really is:

"Did I put this car together correctly..??"
or
"Do I trust my work..??"
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I never said they were gunna change anything. I was just merely wondering what it would run like if it was off. I trust my work and putting it together correctly. Dont get me wrong there. Its not the first motor I have built. Sorry for sounding like a newb. I wont ask what if's anymore
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Got some new numbers today. Had the boost set to 20lbs. It made 340whp and 345wtq at 4500rpms and then the clutch let loose. So its making good power and its not even close to done. I have a clutchmasters stage 5, 4 puck version. I thought those clutches were supposed to hold like 500whp. Anyways, I think its good power for the rpms its at but I would have liked to seen it taken to 7 k. Any good input on clutches out there?? Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
ACT FTW!!!
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srblacks13
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
which clutch would I get thru them????
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
At your power level I would look into a "White Bunny SPL". D21 Flywheel and 280zx Turbo clutch (240mm). Search for it.
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