Built KA-T with Holset H1C dyno numbers

Dyno Sheets/Results Only! We have a separate forum about ECU Tuning and Theory
srblacks13
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Built KA-T with Holset H1C dyno numbers

Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:31 am

Im going to the dyno today. Anybody want to guess my numbers. I will post up this afternoon and let you know the results. Heres what I got

CP 9:1 pistons
JWT cams
850cc injectors
Z32 MAF
Enthalpy tune

Im gunna run 20lbs of boost..... any guesses are welcome...

killab18
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Post by killab18 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:59 am

im going with 400's

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Post by Doba » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:11 am

guessing by the injector size, and psi and turbo im guessing 448 whp
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Post by Miami240 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:58 am

at 20psi i say 380-390whp
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srblacks13
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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 10:23 am

sorry I forgot to say its on a mustang dyno too. Thanks for the replies, keep em coming

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Post by Spud5251 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:56 pm

im going to say 413 whp and 362lbs of torque
Too much to list.

KA26DE-T in the making. BC Stroker Kit, Kelford 272's, borg warner s258 (18-20 psi)9.5 to 1 compression, Full Race Twin Scroll, and a few more goodies.....

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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:48 pm

OK so heres the deal. Got on the dyno.

260ish whp and 240ish wtq

What the hell is wrong with my car. It sure as hell feels faster than that. The a/f ratios were in the 10.5's. But I dont think that changing that will affect it 100whp. What should I start checking. The guy at the dyno thought for sure it has something to do with timing. I have the timing set at 20 at idle like im supposed to but I can see anything from there. Any suggestions/theorys

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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:02 pm

on a side not. Ive read a couple threads on here about people being unhappy with their duno numbers because they had blow thru. I have blow through and it seems to be working fine. The MAF has nothing to do with timing correct??? Or Am I wrong

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nissanfanatic
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Post by nissanfanatic » Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:12 pm

Was Scott informed that this was a blow through setup?

Log total timing under a full pull. Pull AFR out of the 10s. Anything above 11 and below 12 works for your boost level.

BTW, what is your full setup?
-Cory

1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo [ GONE ]
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD [ OK ]
2000 Honda S2000 [ GONE ]
2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Coupe [ GONE ]
1986 Ford F-250 4x4 International IDI Diesel [ GONE ]
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution [ GONE ]
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2009 Honda Fit Sport [ OK ]
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srblacks13
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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:15 pm

I did mention it was blow thru and they just said they didnt recomment it. How am I supposed to log timing???? Thanks for the reply by the way. I know I need to adjust the af ratio but theres no way thats stealing over 100whp....

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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:16 pm

Full setup is

CP 9 to 1
AMS rods
JWT cams
850cc deautchwerk injectors
Z32 MAF
H1C turbo

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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:37 pm

ok, keep the thoughts coming but what about my cams. I just dropped them in, no adjustable gears or anything. Is that ok to do with the JWT cams???

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1wheelwonder
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Post by 1wheelwonder » Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:16 pm

Efeezi or Elks cannot remember which one had a similiar setup to you (subtract Enthalpy and add custom dsm engine managment) and had the same issue as you, he ran 25psi (I think) and made 275rwhp, If I'm not mistaken his cams were not correctly lined up, don't hold me too that, but find his dyno results page for further info.

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Post by nissanfanatic » Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:45 pm

Get the Blazt datascan software. Or just hold a timing light on it while you are on the dyno. You could also borrow some kind of monitoring tool(Techtom MDM-100) ect.

Manifold?
-Cory

1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo [ GONE ]
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD [ OK ]
2000 Honda S2000 [ GONE ]
2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Coupe [ GONE ]
1986 Ford F-250 4x4 International IDI Diesel [ GONE ]
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution [ GONE ]
2004 Subaru WRX Wagon [ GONE ]
2009 Honda Fit Sport [ OK ]
2002 BMW 325i Sedan [ OK ]

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efeezi
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Post by efeezi » Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:06 pm

1wheelwonder wrote:Efeezi or Elks cannot remember which one had a similiar setup to you (subtract Enthalpy and add custom dsm engine managment) and had the same issue as you, he ran 25psi (I think) and made 275rwhp, If I'm not mistaken his cams were not correctly lined up, don't hold me too that, but find his dyno results page for further info.
275 at 4000rpms maybe :lol: My H1C made 411whp at 15psi and 411whp at 20psi meaning the turbo is past its efficiency range at that psi.

Which exhaust housing are you running?
300zx single turbo
715rwhp GT42

srblacks13
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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:59 pm

Im running a 16cm housing. I had 20lbs of boost by 4600. I just dont know whats wrong. I was hoping for way better results. Anybody got any ideas for me. If the cams were off a tooth or something wouldnt it run like ass??

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Post by srblacks13 » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:00 pm

and I have an ssautocrack manifold

efeezi
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Post by efeezi » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:32 pm

I had the 12cm housing. Post up a pic of your turbo because there are a few different H1C's. Its possible you may have one of the less efficient H1C's.

Probably wouldnt hurt to go over your cam timing again either if your concerned.
300zx single turbo
715rwhp GT42

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Post by NateDogg » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:28 pm

I had my cams messed up once and I didnt even know it. I couldnt pass emissions and then I found out my cams were off a tooth. I forgot to use a monkey wrench to turn the cam before I installed the sprocket so the intake was off a tooth or two IIRC..This is a fairly common mistake :lol:

You dont really NEED cam gears for JWT cams but you must at least get the cams on the right tooth.

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Post by seanc » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:29 pm

hmmm maybe thats my problem.

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Post by elks240 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:08 am

Yea that was me with crower cams. I had issues with them they were off a 1/2 tooth and I lost 100whp from it. I put stock cams back in and gained the 100 horses back. When I installed them, I didn't have the intake lined up correctly and it smashed the dowel pin in. The cam must have turned a little bit when I was tightening up the bolt on the cam. So I would recomend at least double checking the cams and making sure the same thing didn't happen to you. And if it did I would order another cam cause it may have cracked it and you don't want it to come apart in the engine. My cam actually snapped in half when I took it to the machine shop to have a new dowel pin put in.

Or as efeezi says it may have something to do with the turbo, ( he knows his holset's :D )

Cause even with a/f's in the 10's that shouldn't cause a 100 horse loss. Maybe 40 at the most.

Just some thoughts.
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srblacks13
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Post by srblacks13 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:21 am

I dont know if its the cams. When I first started myt motor and drove it after rebuild, It would take forever to start and it was hella slow. I found out the cams were off. I moved each a tooth over and now it starts up right away and its got power. Is it possible they are still off. Will the car run " well " even if the cams are still off. I mean, it drives fine around town, seem to have some power. I got 28mpg last tank too on the freeway. I will check my cams again today if I have a chance. But like I said, my main question with this is. Even if they are still off, would the car run well?????

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Post by efeezi » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:23 am

If its off 1 tooth it will run fine, it'll just be lacking power.

Still wondering about your turbo. You got any pics of it?
300zx single turbo
715rwhp GT42

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Post by srblacks13 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:35 am

I can get some pics of it. I looked at it further and the comp housing says WH1C. Is there a difference????

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Post by srblacks13 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:38 am

If they are off. Which way should I move them. Im assuming if its lacking power they are retarded a tooth so which way should they go, or one go???? When I moved them before it looked exactly like the picture on JWT's page. But im down to not so many options here so this could be it[/img]

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Post by srblacks13 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:18 pm

nuther question. What if the inner chain is off a tooth or two???? what kind of conditions would that cause??

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Post by nissanfanatic » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:25 pm

Why would it be off..??

Just time it correctly the first time and that branch of the tree is gone..
-Cory

1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo [ GONE ]
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD [ OK ]
2000 Honda S2000 [ GONE ]
2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Coupe [ GONE ]
1986 Ford F-250 4x4 International IDI Diesel [ GONE ]
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution [ GONE ]
2004 Subaru WRX Wagon [ GONE ]
2009 Honda Fit Sport [ OK ]
2002 BMW 325i Sedan [ OK ]

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Post by efeezi » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:42 pm

Yes there is a difference, some have **** compressor wheels. If you have the one with a 4" surge ported intlet you probably have the correct one.

Does yours look like this Image
300zx single turbo
715rwhp GT42

srblacks13
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Post by srblacks13 » Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:56 pm

nissanfanatic..... Im just sayin, what if. When I put the motor back together I double and thriple checked the marks and made sure it was good. But its just a what if. Im just trying to get this figured out

efeezi..... No, it does not look like that. That thing is ugly

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Post by nissanfanatic » Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:03 pm

All the "what if's" in the world aren't gonna change anything. The only way you will know for sure is to re-time it... So, the question really is:

"Did I put this car together correctly..??"
or
"Do I trust my work..??"
-Cory

1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo [ GONE ]
1995 Subaru Impreza L AWD [ OK ]
2000 Honda S2000 [ GONE ]
2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Coupe [ GONE ]
1986 Ford F-250 4x4 International IDI Diesel [ GONE ]
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution [ GONE ]
2004 Subaru WRX Wagon [ GONE ]
2009 Honda Fit Sport [ OK ]
2002 BMW 325i Sedan [ OK ]

Use Linux...

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