hardbody DE swap (56k beware)

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schmauster920
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hardbody DE swap (56k beware)

Post by schmauster920 »

I picked up an S14 1998 DE to put in my truck, i got all the wiring in the dash and fuse blocks, ecus etc

I want to know if i can just chop off all the non engine wiring and find homes for the ECU wires using a pinout diagram (not worried about lights and gauges right now)

It has an auto still attached, will i need a different spacer (if equiped) for a flywheel off a similar year?

I get extra points for picking it up in work's astro van!
Last edited by schmauster920 on Sun Jul 13, 2008 6:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
IThaJokaI
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Post by IThaJokaI »

your trans will work, no need to use the DE trans...


as for the wiring, cut the interior harness off both your E and the DE harness, and match the colors... You will have a few wires on the DE that dont go to anything... Just cap them and your good to go.
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-Mike
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schmauster920
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transmission swap information

Post by schmauster920 »

Did some research on nissancustoms and it seems the tailhousing is longer on the 240sx trannies, so a driveshaft shortening would be in order... also the shifter would be about 4 or 5 inches further back... just wanted to put that info out there in case anyone was considering this
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tranny

Post by outlaw09 »

was there something wrong with your trans you can use the stock one from your truck and it should work just fine saves you some time and some money
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Post by IThaJokaI »

Yes The trans is longer, you will need a major shortening. I have a 240sx as well as a hardbody.

Thats why if your going to a DE you can just use your stock trans, both dohc and sohc KA24's use the same block casting. So they are all bolt in replacements...

But to be honest, I dont see a point in a DOHC swap when you gain less than 10hp...

a nice exhaust and a 240sx intake and your better off.
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schmauster920
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Post by schmauster920 »

well the reason for the swap is that my E died (i did the 16 year old girl overheat)

so 300 bucks later here i have a DE... now this was my plan from the beginning, just a little rushed now!

I would be crazy to swap it for the 10hp, i dont look soley at base HP when swapping motors, I would have gotten a frontier motor but they arent girdled. The real reason im doing DE is the turbo aftermarket support, of course the girdle, and 4 extra exhaust valves :D The auto tranny is for sale on this site

I have destroyed my 1st to 2nd gear syncros, it grinds like crazy from me trying to force it too fast, its got a limited life ahead but it works okay for now.. i was just hoping a 240 tranny would let me slam through the gears like i want. I will most likely be going with the 300zx tranny and an adapter / custom driveshaft if i ever rebuild the motor for 300+ but we will see


Here are some pics because i know everyone loves them, gotta love work vehicles / gas cards! 400 miles round trip @ 12mpg!
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anyone for some fried ka242e?
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Last edited by schmauster920 on Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:31 am, edited 10 times in total.
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Post by schmauster920 »

is there a spacer i will need for the flywheel? I picked up an ACT 6 puck today, we will see how much fun it is in california traffic

also what should i do about the 2 o2 sensors that came on the 240? should i just put 3 bungs in the downpipe? I already have a wideband
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Post by d21matt »

since you live in cali are you keeping all the smog stuff? i ditched all mine and am registering the truck in a neighboring county in washington. looks a lot cleaner inside the intake runners. just a couple block plates and boom done deal!
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Post by schmauster920 »

im registered in an exempt county of san diego so the smog junk / cat is all going, ive got a lot of E parts, and an egr/scv welded up sohc intake mani off my old setup ill be getting rid of one of these days, a lot of E parts sitting around

Im getting a full gasket set and changing basically everything but the head gasket


Can i use a frontier 4x4 oil pan? They are hard to find and frontiers are even harder to find at a junkyard


whats the year range of oil pan needed? I'd imagine any DE frontier thats not the newer style
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Post by IThaJokaI »

what are you talking about a flywheel spacer? all DE and E blocks are the same, the truck just uses a 240mm flywheel instead of a 225mm... you wont need anything to use a truck trans or a 240 trans... just a new driveshaft for the latter
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Post by schmauster920 »

I saw two different size flywheel shims online and i was wondering if it had to have one since it started life as autotragic i just wanted to check


I found out that i use the oil pan it came with, i have to get the pan off and welded sometime this week, ill be getting a filter relocation kit for oiling the turbo / pressure gauge / oil cooler

Anyone recommend a certian oil cooler?
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Post by IThaJokaI »

schmauster920 wrote:I saw two different size flywheel shims online and i was wondering if it had to have one since it started life as autotragic i just wanted to check


I found out that i use the oil pan it came with, i have to get the pan off and welded sometime this week, ill be getting a filter relocation kit for oiling the turbo / pressure gauge / oil cooler

Anyone recommend a certian oil cooler?
just pull one from a u-pull...

As for the pan, it should be fine if you use 240sx mounts... Not 100% positive on this though.
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schmauster920
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emit emissions

Post by schmauster920 »

ok so emissions and idle control junk now gone, looks so much better doesnt it?

If worse comes to worse and i cant get it to idle off the TB screw then ill just get a intake mani top from a junkyard, but i never had any problems with it on the E, and the check engine light doesnt bother me

Hope you enjoy my dirty hood


BTW 45 bux is well worth it instead of getting block off plates (unless you plan on going back)


Image

Image
Last edited by schmauster920 on Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:21 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by IThaJokaI »

damn those are some nice welds... I hope to send out my SOHC manifold soon, so I can get all emission ports welded up...
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Post by schmauster920 »

im going to put the oil pan back on and see where it needs to be clearanced, do some cutting and hitting and have the same shop weld it up for me... I need to make sure the oil pickup isnt going to be in the way either Plus adding the bung in the pan...

I need to do some searching about oil drain location and what size / thread bung


is 1/2 NPT a good size?

Im not sure what turbo i am going to be running but it will be some decent sized T3 most likely
Last edited by schmauster920 on Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by schmauster920 »

I did the same thing on my SOHC mani, if you want it you can have it for 40 bux + S&H with injectors and everything Plus its pretty clean inside, but It still has the idle control
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Post by IThaJokaI »

schmauster920 wrote:I did the same thing on my SOHC mani, if you want it you can have it for 40 bux + S&H with injectors and everything Plus its pretty clean inside, but It still has the idle control
no chip or retune required?
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Post by schmauster920 »

i wouldnt think so, you are going to have a check engine light on but if it doesnt work out within the next month you can return it, just pay for the shipping

BTW the SCV valves are removed and its welded up accordingly, all welding done by the same shop

I have some pace setter long tubes for sale also if anyone is interested i can take pics


gah im missing pressure plate bolts!! damn the small things that not let me put the motor in this weekend!!!!!!

Edit:

Cant i use my old ones off the E?
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yay it gave birth

Post by schmauster920 »

Image

First hardbody fwd e conversion haha


The E is telling the DE horror stories about my driving and the abuse

pic coming back soon


theres some proof .. these are about a year old with around 20k on them

pic coming back soon


Thats right folks, dont let me borrow your car! With the new found turbo power i wont have to beat up on the clutch so much! Anyone else drift their truck? We need a team here haha
so im waiting on my intake / lower gasket set from autozone,
Last edited by schmauster920 on Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:29 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by schmauster920 »

ACT 6 puck 240 flywheel/clutch ready for some KAbuse!



I did a little cleaning this evening, i might do a little more during the week but we will see I must wait for the gaskets autozone lost or forgot to order.. its not a show truck so i really just wanted to knock off the old crud so its cleaner to work on, and since the new motor shouldnt leak itll be nice to start fresh.. ill most likely hit the rest later with a pressure washer once i can drive it

Image
By shot with FinePix S3100 at 2008-07-12


Check out that fine drivers side motor mount! didnt even have to unbolt it!! Must have been that brute torque of the E! lol
Last edited by schmauster920 on Thu Nov 03, 2011 1:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Shouldnt the body and motor harness be seperate? I dont think the ECU controls anything on the body... is this why the S13 sensors/ecu are recomended?
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Post by schmauster920 »

Did some test fitting today, its not too bad.. the steering linkage and sway bar are directly in the way of the oil pan.. looks like ill be using the truck motor mounts, but im not 100% sure since the bellhousing wouldnt seat because of the motor not being able to come down low enough

Im going to have to remove the sway bar and steering to do some measuring and see how much lower everything has to go


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I was thinking of modding the steering with a drop pitman arm (thanks to the slammer community) since oil pan mods would have to be really severe and the oil pickup is down there somewhere close to those bars... I might be able to dent the oil pan a little to get around the sway bar or add some aluminum spacer blocks to move it down... i definately want a sway bar!
Last edited by schmauster920 on Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Post by julienmark »

The sway can be moved lower some , by installing spacers between the mount and the subframe.

Way back when i was dreaming of a VQ30DET swap the stumbling block was sump / steering clearance issues and although i checked fo other D21 models for different steering peices i had NO sucsess.

And NOBODY was interested in modifying the steering components.

I was pulling my hair out and getting nowhere.

Dont forget to keep us informed.
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Post by schmauster920 »

when are you going to get some power to put that drivetrain to use? Are you thinking about going det? Im hoping the nissancustoms community (slammer crowd) can help me out on some steering components
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Post by schmauster920 »

The shop i use for welding said the 240 pan was dual layer and they cant weld it, so im not sure if i should find a new shop for the pan or get a custom pan made somewhere else.. im thinking cut the flange off and switch it around to turn it into a rear sump then modify the pickup!

Picked up a fun part for the truck

shaft play is very minimal so i consider it a good craigslist deal for 300 bucks

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Image


its got a t3 exhaust side, some guy tried to use it on a 'drift miata' and it was too laggy.... i could imagine

60/63 AR i believe
Last edited by schmauster920 on Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by schmauster920 »

so heres the beginning of figuring out the oiling system... it sure doesnt look dual layer so the welding shop really didnt want to weld it, or they are dumb, oh well ill still go there because they are badass welders!

Time for some dropping in engine and checking whats going on before its welded up all the way.... Or should i leave it as is and not need a pcv? haha

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Ill be getting the oil drain welded once i get the turbo manifold and figure out where the oil drain will be... I had the pan welded at a classic car restoration / fabrication shop... I always get eye rolls when i tell people its for a nissan! haha not many old guys like wimp orts

I got motivated and started picking through my 98 obd2 engine/body crazy wiring and quickly decided that swapping to a pre obd2 harness and sensors would be a good idea
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Post by julienmark »

Keep going, i admire your persistance. We are whatching with intrest.

It seems like the sump may not be too bad, but what of the pick up. If you have some
time post a photo.

Myself, i have run out of money and the Australian economy is slideing down really fast, so my truck will just sit there.
It,s Winter now so i have been lazy anyway, soon i will test and try to finish the driveability issue i have with the U12 ECU / 240sx intake.( which is temporary anyway in this N/A form ).

One day i want a big turbo and as much RWHP as possible on pump gas.
This will require E85 which is just coming to Australia now.
I am hoping for 450 RWHP so i can easilly run a 10 sec 1/4
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Post by schmauster920 »

I took a bunch of pictures of the girdle and pickup location for the shop to make me an oil pickup tube... its going to have to hang all the way to the back of the pan from the front of the motor, i figure ill use thick wall tube and strong studs to secure it and i should be okay, i am uneasy with the sideways leverage the pickup would have during drifting and dirt road rallying...


Having the baffling flipped it hits the girdle near the rear... ill probably just have them cut out the stock baffling and make me some new better stuff for the abusive future
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Post by schmauster920 »

ok so i tried a little harder today and got the pan to fit on, it doesnt go on too straight because the girdle still gets in the way of the baffling ill have them move it down a bit

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Looks like everything clears, with a finger thickness for safety!

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it looks reeeaeaaaally angled to me but its still good! i hope
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Yay my trusty old safc2 and aem wideband

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182,000 and still going....... well its not going anymore but thats my fault! These things run forever in stock form
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I need to find a better place to mount that stuff

Still not sure what im going to do about motor mounts, looks like the truck mounts and engine bracket thingys will get me very close, i may drill the truck mounts to accept the 240 single stud style motor mounts.. we will see!
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Post by schmauster920 »

I got the oil pan back, got everything on, changed the front and rear main seals etc etc

Motor is sitting in the engine compartment with 2 bellhousing bolts holding it in just for the time being

I used truck engine mounts and brackets

not the prettiest of welds but im not complaining... i painted it black with header paint.. ill be removing it for the oil bung once i figure out where the turbo will be and what the most direct shot will be


had to change that sucker!


plenty of clearance everywhere so im thrilled

:D
feel free to post comments and suggestions
Last edited by schmauster920 on Thu Nov 03, 2011 1:50 am, edited 3 times in total.
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