| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
irritatedmax
Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
Joined: 19 Dec 2005
Posts: 598
Location: Nebraska
|
 Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:27 pm Post subject: How To: Throttle Body Rebuild / Disassembly / Assembly |
 |
I couldn't find a write-up on how to disassemble and reassemble a KA throttle body when I started tearing mine apart to clean it up, so I thought I'd write one for anyone else out there who wants to clean theirs up. I just couldn't stand the thought of putting a dirty throttle body back on my cleaned up intake manifold.
I neglected to take many pics of the dis-assembly since I was more interested in keeping track of everything. I will write this as a guide to assembling a throttle body but just reverse the steps to take it apart.
Tools:
screwdrivers - flat and phillips
14mm wrench
small metric allen wrench - not sure what size
needle nose pliers
WD-40/Liquid Wrench
*Optional stuff*
6mm x 1.0 tap
6mm x 1.0 bolt (bolt from spark plug wire holder)
vice grips
Start with one dirty KA throttle body housing.
When you disassemble, keep the parts in order.
After it's disassembled, clean it up. In my case, I media blasted it and then clear coated it (powder coat).
Start by reinstalling the rubber seals on each side of the throttle body (TB). To remove these, use a pair of needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver. Lightly pinch the lip of the seal and pull it out of its groove. Just be gentle since its old rubber and especially if its cold since it will be brittle. To install, just gently work them into place.
Seal in place.
Reinstall the main shaft. I lightly greased the areas that were going to make contact with the rubber seals and housing. It will be snug going in (and coming out). To take it out, tap on the TPS end of the shaft with a hammer. To reinstall, make sure it is lined up and lightly tap it into place from the throttle cable side. It doesn't take a huge whack.
Make sure it is oriented in this manner so the extension part on the shaft makes contact with the housing as it rotates from closed to open (it will hit the set screws when they are installed).
Now, reinstall the throttle plate. This will help you line up the shaft in the housing as the throttle plate will not fit if the shaft it not centered. There is a slot in the shaft that the plate slides through. Orient the shaft as it is in the picture, then slide the plate through and line up the screw holes in the plate with those on the shaft. When removing these screws, be careful no to strip these screw heads. This is where I used the liquid wrench and patience. They are in there TIGHT. Work them out slowly but if you strip the heads, it is pretty much game over. I put a little lock-tite on the thread for reassembly.
Next, its the throttle cable side. These springs are what had me initially intimidated since I thought they would fly apart. Not the case. They really don't have much tension on them and are not "spooled" on there. The just sit in place and hook on where they are supposed to. There are a lot of little bits and pieces to this side, but there is only one way it will all go together. So, make sure you have the correct orientation as below.
Assembled in my hand
Half installed on the main shaft. Note that everything slides over that central black bushing.
The other half
Put on the cable wheel (I powder coated it black while it was off). Note it fits as a "dome" over the first set of springs. It is a snug fit to slide it on. It can only go on in two orientations - correct and 180* off. It's hard to mess up. Hook the springs on to the small shaft parallel to the main one (round end of spring) and hook the other side on the cable wheel and main shaft at the base (the square end of the spring). I'll post a complete shot at the end for reference. The bushing for the cruise control pulley is sitting on top of it for the next step.
Slip on the plastic spacer over the bushing. Remember this is old plastic. Fragile stuff.
Then, slip on the cruise control pulley over that...
then the bottom half of the spring keeper...
and finally, the spring and top side plastic keeper.
Before you put on the washer and nut, make sure you have all your springs hooked on and orientated as shown below.
If it's good, then slide on this rubber buffer/stopper...
and then the teeny tiny C-clip. You can use a flat screw driver to pop this off by pushing the open end with the flat surface of the screw driver. Just make sure you don't launch the clip.
Finally, put on the lock washer and tighten down the 14mm nut. The nut will tighten down against the main shaft which will hit it stopper set screw at the WOT position, so you don't have to figure out what to hold it with. The washer below the lock washer is oriented incorrectly in the pictures above. It is correct as shown below. Above, it will not let the TB open.
Install the set screws, one for idle and one for WOT. Try to remember what they were like before you took them apart. And now, you are done with the hard half.
On the other side, slip the TPS back into position and tighten the two screws. This will only fit on in one direction since it is a D-shaped end of the main shaft.
*OPTIONAL*
I also took the opportunity to plug another vacuum hole while the TB was off. On the under side of the TB, there is a small port that runs a vacuum line to the mess of emissions stuff at the back of the manifold. All my emissions stuff is gone and this port is no longer needed. I used a pair of vice grips to pull the metal port out of the TB housing. It came out pretty easy but just rotate it back and forth while pulling it out. I then tapped the hole with a 6mm x 1.0 tap. Like so...
I used one of the bolts that mount the spark plug wire holders to the valve cover which just happens to be the right thread pitch and the perfect length. I put some RTV on the bolt threads and tightened it into place.
And the finished product, ready to go back on the manifold.
I am sure the process is the same for any other TB with this design - Q45, SR, RB, 300ZX. I hope this gives someone else out there the confidence to tackle what seemed to be a daunting task.
_________________
Steve
 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
RunninMeBrokeS13
Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
Joined: 30 Jul 2009
Posts: 888
Location: the dirty jerz
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
aaronlee97
Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 795
Location: Houston, TX
|
| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:38 am Post subject: |
|
Wow, great! I might end up doing this sometime later as well.
_________________
Here's my car |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
street_240sx
Encyclopedia-Nissan
Joined: 10 Feb 2008
Posts: 1262
Location: 520 AZ
|
| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:38 pm Post subject: |
|
nice write up!!!
_________________
89 240sx s13 coupe:
-96 ka24de 5spd with aem intake
-5lug with 300zx stockers
-z32 front calipers
-lowering springs
-apexi n1 dual knock off
(project began march 15 and running jan18)
*ka-t on its way, almost started* |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DRFTPUNK
240sx Wannabe
Joined: 07 Feb 2010
Posts: 120
Location: Port St Lucie FL
|
| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:48 pm Post subject: |
|
good stuff, +1 to be put in the write up section.
my TB tends to stick when it's all the way closed (and only closed) is this due to the adjustment screw not being properly setup or does it need a cleaning?
_________________
F1 Flywheel,DSS Steel 1pc,DOHC 96 OBD1 convert,JGS Poly Eng&Trans,Energy Suspension bushings,AL Radi,Altima Efans,Cheep Intake, Full Exhaust N1Duals ripoff,Altima Cupholder
As much as doing all your own work is frustrating; it is x2 as much rewarding.
Will turbo this year!
Formerly Known as ISpentAllMyMoneyOnTires
RIP 480sx |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
R34SR
Encyclopedia-Nissan
Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 1453
Location: NYC
|
| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:53 pm Post subject: |
|
Nice of you to make the time and effort for photographing everything as you go.......+10 for sticky in write up section.
_________________
300zx Calipers+EBC pads
11" Drilled n Slotted rotors
Tein Drift spec HE coilovers
J30 LSD
5 lug conversion
5 speed tranny swap
1pc Aluminum Drive Shaft
XTD 11b FLywheel
EXEDY OEM Clutch
TURBO ONE DAY 
| TinyT wrote: | | for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
irritatedmax
Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
Joined: 19 Dec 2005
Posts: 598
Location: Nebraska
|
| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:35 pm Post subject: |
|
| DRFTPUNK wrote: | good stuff, +1 to be put in the write up section.
my TB tends to stick when it's all the way closed (and only closed) is this due to the adjustment screw not being properly setup or does it need a cleaning? |
I suppose it could be either. TB's get a lot of carbon build up on them. As for the set screw, it just tells it where to stop. I could see it causing your problem (try to follow this logic) if it is backed out almost all the way (or gone), and the TB is "over" closed. This could kind of bind the cable when it pulls on it to try and open it. That is a pure speculation and has never been verified or tested by me to see if it is even possible. Just was thinking about it.
Thanks for the kind words guys. It kind of makes my fingers going numb from the cold worth it. Haha.
_________________
Steve
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TanManS14
Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
Joined: 26 Apr 2006
Posts: 2661
Location: Orlando/Jacksonville, FL
|
| Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:43 pm Post subject: |
|
Def good write up. Me and Zxtuner were talking about how to do this (in order to powdercoat the tb), and thought it was impossible. Mainly because you cant (as far as i know) buy new seals for em. I think you have to buy the whole assembly. Crazy you can re use em and they dont leak. How many miles were on that particular one?
Very good write up though man, great plunge into the depths of the tedious, coming out triumphant.
_________________
It's always broken. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
irritatedmax
Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
Joined: 19 Dec 2005
Posts: 598
Location: Nebraska
|
| Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:37 pm Post subject: |
|
| TanManS14 wrote: | Def good write up. Me and Zxtuner were talking about how to do this (in order to powdercoat the tb), and thought it was impossible. Mainly because you cant (as far as i know) buy new seals for em. I think you have to buy the whole assembly. Crazy you can re use em and they dont leak. How many miles were on that particular one?
Very good write up though man, great plunge into the depths of the tedious, coming out triumphant. |
Thanks. That was about 150k worth of crud and filth. I have another stock unit on hand so I figured if this some how gave me troubles then I have a spare handy. But yeah, those are the only two rubber pieces on the unit. Just be gentle with them, and you should be just fine.
Once I post pics of the rest of my intake manifold (probably when I update my build), it will make sense why cleaning up the TB was a must. It's awesome. 
_________________
Steve
Last edited by irritatedmax on Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:44 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DRFTPUNK
240sx Wannabe
Joined: 07 Feb 2010
Posts: 120
Location: Port St Lucie FL
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:46 pm Post subject: |
|
btw just wiped the inside of the TB down with a rag and some cleaner, adjusted the set screw a bit and fixed my sticking problem. i'll do a full clean up later.
if the gasket is kinda shot when we remove the TB from the phlenum should we just use some RTV on it?
_________________
F1 Flywheel,DSS Steel 1pc,DOHC 96 OBD1 convert,JGS Poly Eng&Trans,Energy Suspension bushings,AL Radi,Altima Efans,Cheep Intake, Full Exhaust N1Duals ripoff,Altima Cupholder
As much as doing all your own work is frustrating; it is x2 as much rewarding.
Will turbo this year!
Formerly Known as ISpentAllMyMoneyOnTires
RIP 480sx |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TanManS14
Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
Joined: 26 Apr 2006
Posts: 2661
Location: Orlando/Jacksonville, FL
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 3:55 pm Post subject: |
|
Lol no, go get a new gasket at advance/ autozone for like 99 cents.
Huh good deal man, thanks again for the advice and the great write up. Plus 1 to be stickied as well, this is the first thread of this kinda that i've seen anywhere. Def deserves an archive.
_________________
It's always broken. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
fos240
Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
Joined: 21 Sep 2005
Posts: 405
Location: boonville, NC
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:37 pm Post subject: |
|
good job on taking nice quality pictures. a lot of people don't know how to take close up shots.
frankie |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dynamicck
Driving Mom's Station Wagon
Joined: 25 Jan 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Orange County
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:43 pm Post subject: |
|
awesome write up! Glad you put loc-tite on the throttle plate screws. Seen/heard way to many motors blow because they rattle out and get sucked in.
_________________
used AEM EMS for OBD2 for sale! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Super Coupe
240sx Wannabe
Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Posts: 186
|
| Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:11 pm Post subject: |
|
| Good ****. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Timeslips
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
