Can't take off gt30r exh. housing

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chue240sx
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Can't take off gt30r exh. housing

Post by chue240sx »

So I bought a gt3076r and need to rotate the exhaust housing. Loosened all the bolts, 6 I believe, but it won't budge at all. Even tried tapping it all around to loosen it, PB Blasters, heating the housing. It's not moving at all.

Bought it from a subie guy off Nasoic. Came with his Perrin turbo kit.

Any ideas on what I can do? Take it to a machine shop?
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all shal perrish
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Post by all shal perrish »

you could soak it longer in pb blaster and hit it harder

dont be a puss*y
really wail on it
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Post by Kfred »

I had to literally beat the living piss out of my ball bearing 50 trim for the housing to break loose. Took me 3-4 hours to do it and i was pissed. At first I was being a vagina, but then I soaked it in pb blaster, heated it, and hit it as hard as i could with a dead blow hammer and it finally broke loose. It feels very wrong to hit a $1200 turbo with a hammer as hard as i did.
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Post by all shal perrish »

i used a rubber mallet, and soaked it in pb blaster for 2 days i think and that combined with heat and really whaling on it with that mallet broke that sucker ( hx35) loose

also, if your afraid of breaking the exhaust housing, you could put a 1x4 or a small peice of wood between the housing and the hammer to help spread the impact on the housing and lessen the chance of it breaking a hole in it or somehow messing it up
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Post by turbo2nr »

or take a torch and heat it up,.. take some thing (not your hand) and try twisting it back and forth to break it loose ..

be careful when knocking it off, it may clip a turbine blade then you'll be f*ed..
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Post by Kfred »

turbo2nr wrote: be careful when knocking it off, it may clip a turbine blade then you'll be f*ed..
Good point, I might not have been clear about this. Don't try and knock the housing off of the chra with a hammer, i'm talking about trying to get it to spin. Once you get it spinning it is pretty easy to get off. I had to really wack the sucker with heat and blaster to get it to spin. Once i spun the housing around a few times it was cake.
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Post by all shal perrish »

i suppose that i didnt mention i wasnt trying to bang it off the center section either, just trying to get it to spin..

what i did to hold the turbo was just clamp the t3 flange in a table top vice and heat it and wale on it from there,
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Post by Jackasknissan »

heat it ***** hot,m aka tot he point where the pb blaster, smokes profusly when sprayed on, and spray it heavily when its still hot,


i use a brass hammer and hit it to make the housing spin..

i also think pb blaster is junk, i use a product at work called nut cracker, or also a locaLLY MADE product called plc, its fantastic
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Post by Kfred »

Jackasknissan wrote: i also think pb blaster is junk
I think your old lady is junk.

Have you tried seafoam's deep creep? I am not real impressed with the blaster either...
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Post by Jackasknissan »

i agree.

I have, but these condonsate based pentrants are far far better, mine was suiper rusted from living on saltfy ocean air and sittting for 2 years, it free'd after leting it sit for maybe 20 seconds then one brass hammer tap.;
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Post by chue240sx »

So I did heat it hella hot, spray pb blaster on while it was hot, and sort of beat the heck out of it but still wouldn't budge. I guess I'll have to search for some stuff u guys mentioned or buy hella pb blaster and soak it. Do I soak the whole exhaust side in the pb? I kind of don't want to mess up my $1200 turbo. I'm afraid I might unbalance or creat shaft play. Which part do u guys hit to rotate the exhaust? The t3 flange?
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Post by all shal perrish »

i clamped my t3 flange in a desk vice, and then hit the compressor outlet but you want to hit it so the compressor and center section spins, not pops out, you dont want to try to lift the center section off with the hammer, just get it to spin, and i only soaked the section that the exhaust housing meets the center section..
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Post by chue240sx »

I tried the acetone/powersteering fluid mixture but it didn't work. Now I'm trying CRC's Freeze Off lubricant penetration. If I try to hit the compressor to turn, the compressor itself turns instead.
I called a couple of diesel shops around here and they say it'll probably take 1-2 hours and each hour cost about $80. I definitely don't want to go that route as of now.

I heard about some people sticking seized/rusted parts in the freeze to shrink the metal and kill the rust so that it's easier. Has anybody tried this?

Any other ideas?
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Post by Liteemup39496 »

this may sound silly but the first turbo i bought was a t3 flanged turbo off a 280zx,
when i got it, it looked liked it was resting at the bottom of a lake.

i tried everything. beat the living crap out of it. until an old timer at my buddies shop told me to bolt a 2x4 to the 5 bolt housing then clamp the cartridge minus the compressor housing. with the wood block hanging below it and whack the wood straight down. after a few whacks came right off

this sounds stupid but it worked for me. in the end the turbo was no good anyway. but i got it for free and i wanted to see if it would be worth rebuilding
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Post by Kfred »

Liteemup39496 wrote:this may sound silly but the first turbo i bought was a t3 flanged turbo off a 280zx,
when i got it, it looked liked it was resting at the bottom of a lake.

i tried everything. beat the living crap out of it. until an old timer at my buddies shop told me to bolt a 2x4 to the 5 bolt housing then clamp the cartridge minus the compressor housing. with the wood block hanging below it and whack the wood straight down. after a few whacks came right off

this sounds stupid but it worked for me. in the end the turbo was no good anyway. but i got it for free and i wanted to see if it would be worth rebuilding
That sounds brilliant, not stupid.
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Post by chue240sx »

I'll have to somehow find a way to clamp the cartridge and I will try that out. never thought about that. Thanks.
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Post by all shal perrish »

chue240sx wrote:I'll have to somehow find a way to clamp the cartridge and I will try that out. never thought about that. Thanks.
you could cut strips out of a 2x4 to make the "jaws" of the vice softer and deeper so that it oculd grab the cartrige
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Post by chue240sx »

^^^what do you mean? extending the arms of a vice grip and then using the vice grip to clamp down the cartridge?
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Post by Liteemup39496 »

chue240sx wrote:I'll have to somehow find a way to clamp the cartridge and I will try that out. never thought about that. Thanks.
the shop i did mine at had a vice that could be rotated 90deg left or right which made this feasible
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Post by all shal perrish »

chue240sx wrote:^^^what do you mean? extending the arms of a vice grip and then using the vice grip to clamp down the cartridge?
i meen put strips of wood on the "teeth" of the vice grip if you will, that way its not metal on metal on the cartrige

if that doesent make sense, there isnt any simpler way i can say it
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Post by chue240sx »

haha..got cha. I'll have to buy a big enough vice then.
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Post by chue240sx »

Good news. I was able to remove the exhausting housing. After a patience and a few trips to the auto parts store, I searched out some tools that worked perfectly that does not require any hitting or banging. It's a timing gear puller I believe.

Here's a link:
http://www.oem-tools.com/products/show/25258

I hope this helps others in the future instead of wasting around $80 at an auto shop. You can rent these from kragen or autozone and return for full refund.

Best
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Post by Kfred »

What did you push against? The turbine shaft nut?
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

My thoughts exactly, you shouldnt be pressing against the turbine...

I've had some pretty tight turbo's, I just hold the compressor housing and wack the inside of the turbine housing with a ball peen hammer, gets them every time.
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