Ponda's Single Slammer Build Thread
Ponda's Single Slammer Build Thread
Hey guys! I introduced myself a few months ago and then went into hibernation. During that time I thought about selling my project - but I just couldn't let it go.
So...here we are. I pulled the motor a while back with plans to swap in an SR or dual cam. After seeing some of the single cam builds here, I figured what the hay.
I've never built a motor before. Truth be told - I've never even tore one down so all of this is a first. I'll go ahead and thank everyone for all of the help now - I'm sure I'll need plenty of it!
First off - my engine has around 200k so I'm not sure if the following pics are good news or bad news. I done a compression test prior to pulling the motor and had around 140-150 across the board if I recall correctly.
^ As you can see...I tried zip tieing the chain to the cam sprocket but I just realized the chain slipped off the crank. I did set everything to TDC prior to pulling the head so I guess I'm okay as long as I make sure the crank is at the proper mark when reinstalling the chain?
Everything look like it's in pretty good shape here?
Would it be okay for me to go ahead and disassemble the head? I really want to clean and paint everything and it would be a lot easier with all of that out of the way.
I have a gasket kit on the way along with a new oil pump. Hoping to have everything cleaned, painted and reassembled in the next few weeks.
So...here we are. I pulled the motor a while back with plans to swap in an SR or dual cam. After seeing some of the single cam builds here, I figured what the hay.
I've never built a motor before. Truth be told - I've never even tore one down so all of this is a first. I'll go ahead and thank everyone for all of the help now - I'm sure I'll need plenty of it!
First off - my engine has around 200k so I'm not sure if the following pics are good news or bad news. I done a compression test prior to pulling the motor and had around 140-150 across the board if I recall correctly.
^ As you can see...I tried zip tieing the chain to the cam sprocket but I just realized the chain slipped off the crank. I did set everything to TDC prior to pulling the head so I guess I'm okay as long as I make sure the crank is at the proper mark when reinstalling the chain?
Everything look like it's in pretty good shape here?
Would it be okay for me to go ahead and disassemble the head? I really want to clean and paint everything and it would be a lot easier with all of that out of the way.
I have a gasket kit on the way along with a new oil pump. Hoping to have everything cleaned, painted and reassembled in the next few weeks.
man i haven't posted here in YEARS... but good to see another sohc going up!
if you're going to be stripping everything down you might as well send it to a machine shop to have all the tolerances checked. while you're at it you could get some new main and rod bearings and pick up some new rings too.
there's no need to try to "save" the timing. in the picture below, the small red circle shows a punch mark on the cam gear and the larger oval shows a discolored chain link. you'll find another link like that on the chain and another punch mark on the crank gear. just line the discolored links up with the punch marks and voila you're in time (just make sure you have the cam gear at tdc, which it is in that picture.
you should make sure to get some new giming chain guides too (NISSAN ONLY!!) because if your old ones are broken the chain will wear through the timing cover and mix oil and coolant. i have 4 covers that i had to weld because of it. i have a fresh cover and some welded ones if yours has already started to wear through too
good luck
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if you're going to be stripping everything down you might as well send it to a machine shop to have all the tolerances checked. while you're at it you could get some new main and rod bearings and pick up some new rings too.
there's no need to try to "save" the timing. in the picture below, the small red circle shows a punch mark on the cam gear and the larger oval shows a discolored chain link. you'll find another link like that on the chain and another punch mark on the crank gear. just line the discolored links up with the punch marks and voila you're in time (just make sure you have the cam gear at tdc, which it is in that picture.
you should make sure to get some new giming chain guides too (NISSAN ONLY!!) because if your old ones are broken the chain will wear through the timing cover and mix oil and coolant. i have 4 covers that i had to weld because of it. i have a fresh cover and some welded ones if yours has already started to wear through too
good luck
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A. Co 1-172nd AR OIF '05-'06 Camp Junction, Ar Ramadi, Iraq
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^ Hehe. Glad I can help!
Here's a little update:
I haven't made a whole lot of progress but I'm slowly getting there. Things should pick up in the coming weeks. Hardest part of the cleaning process so far were the stubborn gaskets that were stuck to the intake side of the head. Gasket remover wasn't cutting it so I had to use a razor blade and a lot of patience.
The exhaust side has been cleaned and painted.
Turns out Jay D Emm was right...my timing chain guide was broke in half. The upper half was still attached so I couldn't really see that the bottom half was gone until I pulled the front cover. Thanks a lot for the advice Jay - I was close to not even removing the front cover because I thought the guide was still intact.
My front cover appears to be fine. I can't see any places where the chain was rubbing so maybe the upper half of the guide was still working.
*QUESTION* I was cleaning the head gasket surface/pistons and noticed this...
What exactly do those numbers mean? "30R - 06"
Also - any suggestions on what to use to clean the head gasket surface?
Here's a little update:
I haven't made a whole lot of progress but I'm slowly getting there. Things should pick up in the coming weeks. Hardest part of the cleaning process so far were the stubborn gaskets that were stuck to the intake side of the head. Gasket remover wasn't cutting it so I had to use a razor blade and a lot of patience.
The exhaust side has been cleaned and painted.
Turns out Jay D Emm was right...my timing chain guide was broke in half. The upper half was still attached so I couldn't really see that the bottom half was gone until I pulled the front cover. Thanks a lot for the advice Jay - I was close to not even removing the front cover because I thought the guide was still intact.
My front cover appears to be fine. I can't see any places where the chain was rubbing so maybe the upper half of the guide was still working.
*QUESTION* I was cleaning the head gasket surface/pistons and noticed this...
What exactly do those numbers mean? "30R - 06"
Also - any suggestions on what to use to clean the head gasket surface?
The 30r i believe refers to the part number, the 06 has something to do with the exact tolerance of the wrist pin, if i'm not mistaken. it doesn't matter if you're using the original parts anyway. about the headgasket - the best thing is patience and a good scraper. i don't think a razor is good, esp on the bottom of the head because the razor will mar the deck.
A. Co 1-172nd AR OIF '05-'06 Camp Junction, Ar Ramadi, Iraq
Finished my valve cover today. Pretty happy with how it turned out. I used Rustoleum textured paint from Wally World and air craft remover to get rid of that old yucky finish.
After a few coats of paint...
Then I polished out the lettering...
Will have more updates this week. Waiting on my timing chain kit to come in along with the manifold I ordered from Jordan. Going to try and get the front cover and intake manifold cleaned and painted this week.
After a few coats of paint...
Then I polished out the lettering...
Will have more updates this week. Waiting on my timing chain kit to come in along with the manifold I ordered from Jordan. Going to try and get the front cover and intake manifold cleaned and painted this week.
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- 240sx Wannabe
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- Jordan Gladman
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You dont need much, just a decent array of hand tools, a good torque wrench, and maybe some feeler gauges. If you're fitting your own rings, get a decent ring grinder.
Build looks good, good job on the valve cover. If you want me to send you a powder coated one, I can ship it with your manifold.
Build looks good, good job on the valve cover. If you want me to send you a powder coated one, I can ship it with your manifold.
Last edited by Jordan Gladman on Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
WWW.GLADFAB.COM SOHC Turbo Manifolds
Not really doing anything to the bottom end - I didn't have any signs of wear and tear prior to pulling so I decided to just leave it be.rowdy wrote:im sorry if i missed this, but what are you doing with the bottom end? stock rebuild?
$50 isn't bad, Jordan. I've been thinking about buying a powder coat system for a while now and after seeing your intercooler piping I think I may pull the trigger. I'm excited to see how the manifold turns out!
As far as tools go - if you have the basics you'll be fine. Torque wrench is a must and you'll need some extensions as well. Your basic $100 Craftsman wrench set will have everything you'll need (except the torque wrench).
I've been slacking the past few days. I need some motivation to finish cleaning the lower portion of the intake manifold and start putting everything back together.
Small update...finally had some time the past few days to work on the car. I've cleaned and prepped everything to start reassembly. So far it seems like I've done more bad than good this week, though.
I hadn't used my torque wrench in a while so I decided to do a few test torque's prior to bolting the head down. I tested it on a motor mount bracket bolt and ended up breaking the bolt off in the block - then I broke two extractors trying to back that bolt out. Guess I"m going to have to tap a bigger hole and use a larger bolt - should that be okay?
On top of that - I was installing the timing chain, guides, and tensioner and broke one of the two bolts holding the tensioner in place. I was able to get that broken bolt out of the block, though. So I just need to buy a new bolt.
Anyone else had problems breaking bolts off? I didn't put a tremendous amount of pressure on either bolt - especially the tensioner bolt. The motor mount bolt was pretty rusted so I see how that one broke but the tensioner bolt looked fine. It snapped really easy - definitely under 15 lbs. of pressure is all it took to snap it.
I hadn't used my torque wrench in a while so I decided to do a few test torque's prior to bolting the head down. I tested it on a motor mount bracket bolt and ended up breaking the bolt off in the block - then I broke two extractors trying to back that bolt out. Guess I"m going to have to tap a bigger hole and use a larger bolt - should that be okay?
On top of that - I was installing the timing chain, guides, and tensioner and broke one of the two bolts holding the tensioner in place. I was able to get that broken bolt out of the block, though. So I just need to buy a new bolt.
Anyone else had problems breaking bolts off? I didn't put a tremendous amount of pressure on either bolt - especially the tensioner bolt. The motor mount bolt was pretty rusted so I see how that one broke but the tensioner bolt looked fine. It snapped really easy - definitely under 15 lbs. of pressure is all it took to snap it.
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Haha - sorry for no updates. I have been working on the car, though. I have painted the engine bay and right now I'm working on getting everything wired up to drop the motor back in.
I've decided to put everything back together N/A to make sure the motor is working fine. I'm sure there will be plenty of headaches so I'm trying to make them as easy as possible to deal with.
I somehow misplaced the stock manifold for my SOHC. I'm starting to think it may have accidentally made its way to the scrap yard. Anybody have a stock manifold they could part with?
I've decided to put everything back together N/A to make sure the motor is working fine. I'm sure there will be plenty of headaches so I'm trying to make them as easy as possible to deal with.
I somehow misplaced the stock manifold for my SOHC. I'm starting to think it may have accidentally made its way to the scrap yard. Anybody have a stock manifold they could part with?
- glacier985
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Wow...I'm such a slow poke.
FINALLY dropping the engine back in. Just have to fab up a downpipe. I feel a headache coming on.
*Question* On the intake side of my block - I have a bolt that I obviously removed. It's right in the middle of the motor mount bracket but I can't figure out what it was for. Any ideas?
FINALLY dropping the engine back in. Just have to fab up a downpipe. I feel a headache coming on.
*Question* On the intake side of my block - I have a bolt that I obviously removed. It's right in the middle of the motor mount bracket but I can't figure out what it was for. Any ideas?
- nis720
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That bolt is for the intake bracket.
Still plays with trucks
http://members.cardomain.com/nis720
All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car... most people settle for the car - Titus.
http://members.cardomain.com/nis720
All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car... most people settle for the car - Titus.
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Kind of at a stand still for now. Downpipe material should be in next week so until then I've been trying to get the car as close to complete as possible.
I've searched and searched but I can only find mixed opinions...
If you look at the pic above ^ you can see where my BOV mounts. It's right behind the driver side headlight. Now, I'm going with the JWT/Enthalpy tune so where would be the best place for my MAF? On the intake?
I've searched and searched but I can only find mixed opinions...
If you look at the pic above ^ you can see where my BOV mounts. It's right behind the driver side headlight. Now, I'm going with the JWT/Enthalpy tune so where would be the best place for my MAF? On the intake?
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Good job keep it up I like to see more and more KA SOHC being built
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