D.I.Y Motor Mounts
D.I.Y Motor Mounts
Mods Please Sticky
What: Homemade Engine Mounts
Why: Alternative to Hockey Pucks, Nismo Mounts or Stock Mounts
Time: 1 hour
Tools Needed:
Drill with 3/8th Metal Drill Bit
Table Saw or Hand Saw
Tape Measure
Chalk
Materials Needed:
1 - Tube of super glue
2 - 16oz Rubber Mallets
1 - 2ft length of 3/8ths all thread
4 - 3/8ths Nuts
8 - Washers (only 4 pictured)
Step 1
Take your drill and drill a hole straight through the rubber mallet width-wise.
(there's metal in the middle so make sure you have the proper bit)
Step 2
Then Cut the handles off
So they look like this
Step 3
measure the rubber and cut off rubber it until it measures 3 inches
(you can go smaller to lower the motor if you have clearence issues)
like so
Step 4
Cut 2 5&1/4inch lengths of all thread
Step 5
Super Glue your washers around the holes on the rubber
Step 6
Push your 5&1/4inch lengths of all thread through the rubber
Step 7
screw nuts on each side
Final Product
i chose to leave them bare, you can also wrap them in heavy duty tape or what not.
What: Homemade Engine Mounts
Why: Alternative to Hockey Pucks, Nismo Mounts or Stock Mounts
Time: 1 hour
Tools Needed:
Drill with 3/8th Metal Drill Bit
Table Saw or Hand Saw
Tape Measure
Chalk
Materials Needed:
1 - Tube of super glue
2 - 16oz Rubber Mallets
1 - 2ft length of 3/8ths all thread
4 - 3/8ths Nuts
8 - Washers (only 4 pictured)
Step 1
Take your drill and drill a hole straight through the rubber mallet width-wise.
(there's metal in the middle so make sure you have the proper bit)
Step 2
Then Cut the handles off
So they look like this
Step 3
measure the rubber and cut off rubber it until it measures 3 inches
(you can go smaller to lower the motor if you have clearence issues)
like so
Step 4
Cut 2 5&1/4inch lengths of all thread
Step 5
Super Glue your washers around the holes on the rubber
Step 6
Push your 5&1/4inch lengths of all thread through the rubber
Step 7
screw nuts on each side
Final Product
i chose to leave them bare, you can also wrap them in heavy duty tape or what not.
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- Encyclopedia-Nissan
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How well do you think they are going to hold up to the heat from your engine? i can understand saving a few bucks here and there but damn.
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KA26DE-T in the making. BC Stroker Kit, Kelford 272's, borg warner s258 (18-20 psi)9.5 to 1 compression, Full Race Twin Scroll, and a few more goodies.....
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I wouldn't recommend this. I tried a similar setup, but with the rubber from dock stops for semi trucks. The engine eventually torques into the mounts and causes the studs to loosen, not to mention it greatly reduced the efficiency of putting power to the ground. The mounts were swapped to JGS Polys and it was night and day. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, period. Sorry dude.
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1991 Miata, KA-T - Project
eazye2000 wrote:Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it came out.
I just had a buddy give me two solid pieces of steel with a hole in them for my new solid mounts. I'd like some feedback on this before I add 12 pounds of steel to my car. lol
Yeah. I would not do this. I had solid aluminum mounts for about a week and it was hell. My dash vibrated a good inch or more and the gauges bounced around so much they were useless, let alone the vibration through the steering wheel. Plus, it was ridiculously loud inside.
So, cut them down and use some reinforced rubber bushings and you'll be good to go.
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- Jordan Gladman
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Any DIY mount that uses a bolt that goes right through the mount is worthless IMO.... you might as well just run a steel puck.
The tension through the bolt will make for a very solid feeling mount and the rubber will have little effect. I was doing urethane mounts like this for a while and just wasnt happy selling them.
The only way to go is with an isolated engine mount where there is no direct line of steel between the motor and the subframe.
If you want a good DIY mount, buy 2 pucks and countersink enough room to put a bolt/washer under each puck facing outwards. Then screw the 2 pucks together at the perimeter. This will isolate the bolts from each other and still give a stiff mount without a solid contact line.
The tension through the bolt will make for a very solid feeling mount and the rubber will have little effect. I was doing urethane mounts like this for a while and just wasnt happy selling them.
The only way to go is with an isolated engine mount where there is no direct line of steel between the motor and the subframe.
If you want a good DIY mount, buy 2 pucks and countersink enough room to put a bolt/washer under each puck facing outwards. Then screw the 2 pucks together at the perimeter. This will isolate the bolts from each other and still give a stiff mount without a solid contact line.
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any pics to show examples ?Jordan Gladman wrote:Any DIY mount that uses a bolt that goes right through the mount is worthless IMO.... you might as well just run a steel puck.
The tension through the bolt will make for a very solid feeling mount and the rubber will have little effect. I was doing urethane mounts like this for a while and just wasnt happy selling them.
The only way to go is with an isolated engine mount where there is no direct line of steel between the motor and the subframe.
If you want a good DIY mount, buy 2 pucks and countersink enough room to put a bolt/washer under each puck facing outwards. Then screw the 2 pucks together at the perimeter. This will isolate the bolts from each other and still give a stiff mount without a solid contact line.
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supertech 8.6:1
eagle H-beams
272BC cams
BC Dual springs
has t3/t04e 60trim need a bigger one for 25psi ???? s366 maybe
custom exh & intake manifolds
ebay ssqv bov
2.5"hotpipe, 3"coldpipe, Blow through MAF
AEM FIC,Zeitronix wideband, z32 maf
Bosch 1000cc inj, Twin walbro's, -8AN feed line,.... and lots more
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Throwing my .02 out there.... I made a set of solid steel motor mounts for my ka. They are rediculous for anything except track use. I dont recomend this at all unless your building a track car everything rattles and it will beat you up to drive. My friend has a ca18det he picked up that someone had made the diy tutorial version mounts with 2 separate bolts not one solid all the way through. He ripped both motor mounts in half and snapped the bolts in the rubber section of his driveshaft the other day... I like the puck design posted here gonna try that out sometime
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turn up the idle and grow a paircmoody2006 wrote:Throwing my .02 out there.... I made a set of solid steel motor mounts for my ka. They are rediculous for anything except track use. I dont recomend this at all unless your building a track car everything rattles and it will beat you up to drive. My friend has a ca18det he picked up that someone had made the diy tutorial version mounts with 2 separate bolts not one solid all the way through. He ripped both motor mounts in half and snapped the bolts in the rubber section of his driveshaft the other day... I like the puck design posted here gonna try that out sometime
That's clever i am not to sure if it will last but cool to see different things being thought up thumbs up for trying new things
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
I was a moron and I got banned!
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did you ever figure the answer to this?Aaj2k5 wrote:I'm sketching up something similar to double pucks like that but how are you keeping the countersunk bolt from turning while tightening..
And just have to make sure the external fasteners holding them together don't make contact with the mount bracket so that it will seat firmly.
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you will literally never want to use your car, i had solids in my car for a couple months and they put 3 cracks in my dash and vibrated almost everything loose, bolts have apeared in my floor board HATED THOSE THINGSTinyT wrote:your gonna hate your lifeeazye2000 wrote:Any updates on this? I'm curious to see how it came out.
I just had a buddy give me two solid pieces of steel with a hole in them for my new solid mounts. I'd like some feedback on this before I add 12 pounds of steel to my car. lol
When life kicks you in the ass...punch it in the face
Bringing up this thread.
I want to solid mount my engine as the car is mostly used on track.
I have previously run a car with poly engine mounts and was completely unfazed by the increased vibration at idle and very impressed with how much tighter the car felt.
The question is I guess just how much worse are solid mounts compared to poly? Is it a vibration at idle situation or is my dash going to bounce an inch up and down all the time?
I have read that if you solid mount the engine then you should only poly mount the transmission otherwise you risk breaking the casing. Is this true for the Ka?
Thoughts from anybody who actually runs solid mounts would be awesome
I want to solid mount my engine as the car is mostly used on track.
I have previously run a car with poly engine mounts and was completely unfazed by the increased vibration at idle and very impressed with how much tighter the car felt.
The question is I guess just how much worse are solid mounts compared to poly? Is it a vibration at idle situation or is my dash going to bounce an inch up and down all the time?
I have read that if you solid mount the engine then you should only poly mount the transmission otherwise you risk breaking the casing. Is this true for the Ka?
Thoughts from anybody who actually runs solid mounts would be awesome
It's not that bad. I've been running Xcessives solid mounts for a year now no problems. It vibrates ALOT but nothing has fallen out or loosened up or broke. Your tach and speedo will bounce a little and anything plastic that isn't bolted (aka snap clipped in) will rattle but I have a stripped car so I have minimal plastic.MRLuke wrote:Bringing up this thread.
I want to solid mount my engine as the car is mostly used on track.
I have previously run a car with poly engine mounts and was completely unfazed by the increased vibration at idle and very impressed with how much tighter the car felt.
The question is I guess just how much worse are solid mounts compared to poly? Is it a vibration at idle situation or is my dash going to bounce an inch up and down all the time?
I have read that if you solid mount the engine then you should only poly mount the transmission otherwise you risk breaking the casing. Is this true for the Ka?
Thoughts from anybody who actually runs solid mounts would be awesome
You can't beat the feel of immediate power transfer and I have had ppl at autocross think I'm an automatic from how fast and smooth I can grab gears.
Not sure if id be better of starting my own thread...
I need to make some mounts up for my KA.
On the drivers (right hand) side I am a little tight for space so would like to do this:
Using these 3 bolts on the block
Mounting to this chassis plate (will be reinforced)
only problem is that the mounts will run at this angle
They are going to be made of 2" x 2" box section and solid mounted.
All input appreciated
Just realised the pictures arent great.. the chassis plate is right at the front of the engine and the mount would go to about the middle of the block.
I need to make some mounts up for my KA.
On the drivers (right hand) side I am a little tight for space so would like to do this:
Using these 3 bolts on the block
Mounting to this chassis plate (will be reinforced)
only problem is that the mounts will run at this angle
They are going to be made of 2" x 2" box section and solid mounted.
All input appreciated
Just realised the pictures arent great.. the chassis plate is right at the front of the engine and the mount would go to about the middle of the block.