i dunno what do you guys think
i dunno what do you guys think
well i had it idling tonight, i need to finish a few thing like tap the iat in and some other things but this is what i got so far. thank god for the ms2
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boost with itb's i might. boost yes, but with itb i dunno it will be a lot more work.Jackasknissan wrote:looks cool, thoughts on going boosted with the itb's
im honestly curious how different it sounds
your itb's dont have a iacv slider built in?
also what are they off of?>
and i pretty much wipped this up in a day.
look up vids of itb's on youtube. you will kinda get the idea but i will get a vid soon.
and for some reason after i put the header on. every body tells me the car sounds like a sti. but only till 3k. so im waiting to see how it will change the over all sound of the car.
no iacv, just cracked throttle plates.
and they came off 06-07 gsxr600 they are 40mm. i know they are a little small
but i know ill still see a gain no matter what. and i got them for dirt cheap, and they came with every thing on them. so after selling the injectors and fuel rail, map sensor secondary tps sensor i can make my money back
Good stuff. Like the ingenuity.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
well it runs and drive. most of the tuning is done.
it sounds really good. picked up some on the bottom end, mid range is awsome and it picked up some on the top end. so instead of falling flat on its face at 6,5 it pulls to 7 well.
i will get a video as soon as i can, cause all i have is a crapy phone witch i took the pic's with
it sounds really good. picked up some on the bottom end, mid range is awsome and it picked up some on the top end. so instead of falling flat on its face at 6,5 it pulls to 7 well.
i will get a video as soon as i can, cause all i have is a crapy phone witch i took the pic's with
- aaronlee97
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I'm interested in seeing the Dyno results. Usually replacing the stock intake mani drives the torque curve up the RPM band quite a bit.
Here's a link to another successful ITB setup
viewtopic.php?t=26472&highlight=itb
Here's a link to another successful ITB setup
viewtopic.php?t=26472&highlight=itb
i have seen that post a wile ago when i was looking around for info on this.aaronlee97 wrote:I'm interested in seeing the Dyno results. Usually replacing the stock intake mani drives the torque curve up the RPM band quite a bit.
Here's a link to another successful ITB setup
viewtopic.php?t=26472&highlight=itb
the only diff is i have 40mm vs. his 42mm and don't think their is gunna be that large of a diff.
and i want to get it to the dyno now my self just to see what this 196k motor can do lol.
the last compression test like a month ago cold was 160-164psi or so and the leak down test was 12%.
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- schmauster920
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they might be me and you would have to look more into that.Jackasknissan wrote:prnding how much you want for them i might be intersted in the injectors if there the same style as 03-04 r1
but i have both 1st stage and second stage injectors still in the fuel rail.
the only thing i would say they might not be large enough for a 1000.
i have already synced them. the exhaust note after the header is was made it sound more like an sti.schmauster920 wrote:If it sounds like an STI at low throttle the ITBs probably need to be synced, have you done this already? its pretty easy
before the install of the throttle body.
but i got more tuning in last night, the itb's setting in the ms are a little hard to understand at first. but i think i got it.
its idles better the crusing was a little lean 15-16 arf's but light accel is good and wot is a little to rich but i should be able to clear all that up today.
and i raced my brother gti this morning, it runs maybe low 14's high 13 or so.
i hang with him well now over him just walking the dog on me lol.
but this is on just about a stock s13 timming map. 2-3* over stock
Pretty cool. There's a guy where I work that has a ITB D16 Civic. He made decent power on it for such a small, N/A Honda motor, but the driveability is horrible. The thing won't even hold a steady idle. It goes up and down, up and down... he usually just shuts it off at stop lights because it "idles" at 10:1 AFRs. But that's probably because he doesn't know what the hell he is doing!!
Looking forward to those dyno numbers.
Looking forward to those dyno numbers.
lol well idle was good slight accel was a litte ruff. so was crusing. but wot was good as well. and to day i ran in to a little trouble.
THAT GOD DAMN F*CKING POS INNOVATE LC-1 WENT BACK OUT ON ME.
NO BODY KNOW HOW F*CKING PISSED I AM.
i tried to recalibrate it and so all the same junk i did before. and its been raining on and off all night so i can't finish the tune now.
so im gunna hook the laptop up to it tomarrow see if i can reload the firm ware,
and see what it gets me. but now innovate owe's me a new unit so if i can't fix it. i should be getting a new one from them.
THAT GOD DAMN F*CKING POS INNOVATE LC-1 WENT BACK OUT ON ME.
NO BODY KNOW HOW F*CKING PISSED I AM.
i tried to recalibrate it and so all the same junk i did before. and its been raining on and off all night so i can't finish the tune now.
so im gunna hook the laptop up to it tomarrow see if i can reload the firm ware,
and see what it gets me. but now innovate owe's me a new unit so if i can't fix it. i should be getting a new one from them.
- wheelman
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How did you hook up the vacuum line(s) to the MS and what did you do for a TPS?
Just curious, I've no plans to do what you've done, the KA-T is running very well and I have no desire to mess it up.
Just curious, I've no plans to do what you've done, the KA-T is running very well and I have no desire to mess it up.
Wheelman
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
lol i wouldn't change it eather if its running right. its a pain to tune this thing.wheelman wrote:How did you hook up the vacuum line(s) to the MS and what did you do for a TPS?
Just curious, I've no plans to do what you've done, the KA-T is running very well and I have no desire to mess it up.
up for the map i used the stock ports the itbs had already and drilled them out a little bit. to help lower the map reading witch is needed cause crusing reads 68-75kpa and part throttle accel reads like 85-90kpa and the idle is 38-43kpa
so its a lot higher than the factory single throttle body.
for tps it still had the sensor on it. and some how hyundai makes a pig tail, in are wiring repairs kits that matches the tps so i used that and wired it in the ms.
seems to work well. but tps/ par throttle accel reads 20-30%.
and crusing is like 6-9%. so to set the maps right to crusing is whats pissing me off lol.
- wheelman
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When I first started trying to tune the KA-T I had idle MAP readings like that, messing with the AFR (VE table) I was able to get it down into the high 20s. My motor likes to idle in the 12 - 12.5 AFR range, if I go higher the MAP readings increase into the mid to high 30s, just like you reported. What are your idle AFRs?
Have you logged a WOT run yet?
I'd be curious to see what the MAP readings are, if they don't exceed 101 then your sensor is working fine.
I'm thinking you're struggling with tuning the equivalent of a HUGE single throttle body. A small percentage opening of the throttle plates produces a huge change in air flow into the engine and a correspondingly large drop in the vacuum signal to the MS unit. It will make the vacuum to air flow ratio a non-linear relationship and more difficult to tune all across the MAP signal range.
Does that make sense?
EDIT: It sure looks cool though!!!!
Have you logged a WOT run yet?
I'd be curious to see what the MAP readings are, if they don't exceed 101 then your sensor is working fine.
I'm thinking you're struggling with tuning the equivalent of a HUGE single throttle body. A small percentage opening of the throttle plates produces a huge change in air flow into the engine and a correspondingly large drop in the vacuum signal to the MS unit. It will make the vacuum to air flow ratio a non-linear relationship and more difficult to tune all across the MAP signal range.
Does that make sense?
EDIT: It sure looks cool though!!!!
Wheelman
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
well yes i do under stand thats what itb setting is for. its mixing S/D tuning and A/N tuning into one table.
its suposed to help make tuning easier insted of blend tuning using two maps
one for S/D and one for A/N. but the load switch points is whats hard to get right.
i have logged a wot pull. the map is at just about 100 and tps is 101 or so.
afr and timing was good cause its under A/N. and idling was fine 35-40kpa or so.
but afr's where 13.9-14.2 thats was good. its the load switch point where under crusing
it switches between S/D to A/N thats whats f ing me up. it would cruse 14.5-15
then jump around to 13.5 or 16-16.5 on crusing and since the timing map is under this setting it was harder to get that right cause it would be holding a accel timing over a crusing timing. making things a little jumpy
and if i changed the switch points more for A/N it would hold a crusing timing on accel.
witch sucked as well lol.
EDIT:
i am not taking the itb's off now. i have stubled across a few thing and got crusing a lot better no more stubbling.
wot feels good but does kinda feel a little rich, but i wont see wot much eny more till i get a new wide band.
its suposed to help make tuning easier insted of blend tuning using two maps
one for S/D and one for A/N. but the load switch points is whats hard to get right.
i have logged a wot pull. the map is at just about 100 and tps is 101 or so.
afr and timing was good cause its under A/N. and idling was fine 35-40kpa or so.
but afr's where 13.9-14.2 thats was good. its the load switch point where under crusing
it switches between S/D to A/N thats whats f ing me up. it would cruse 14.5-15
then jump around to 13.5 or 16-16.5 on crusing and since the timing map is under this setting it was harder to get that right cause it would be holding a accel timing over a crusing timing. making things a little jumpy
and if i changed the switch points more for A/N it would hold a crusing timing on accel.
witch sucked as well lol.
EDIT:
i am not taking the itb's off now. i have stubled across a few thing and got crusing a lot better no more stubbling.
wot feels good but does kinda feel a little rich, but i wont see wot much eny more till i get a new wide band.
its cool bro its good to see sombody can see tuning at my level. to bounce ideas off of,
and is using a ms unit and im still runing the stock cas
i found out what happend, the pulse with on bank one would go nuts with a super high
msec number, then bank two would be normal then it would switch around only wile crusing.
well wile watching the dash board i noticed the map accel would be flashing crazy wile crusing. so i took out all map accel numbers and zeroed out all accel enrichment numbers. and fixed all the crusing problems. something i never seen on the data logs lol.
i just need the o2 back now to finish up fine tuning up top and crusing loads.
and is using a ms unit and im still runing the stock cas
i found out what happend, the pulse with on bank one would go nuts with a super high
msec number, then bank two would be normal then it would switch around only wile crusing.
well wile watching the dash board i noticed the map accel would be flashing crazy wile crusing. so i took out all map accel numbers and zeroed out all accel enrichment numbers. and fixed all the crusing problems. something i never seen on the data logs lol.
i just need the o2 back now to finish up fine tuning up top and crusing loads.
- wheelman
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How far from the exhaust ports did you mount the O2 sensor?
I've seen them very close to the turbine outlet on turbo installs but Innovate's documentation says not to put it that close. I can't remember if there was a distance number listed but the idea is to place it down stream a bit so the exhaust gases aren't so hot they damage the sensor.
Maybe thats what killed yours, or is it actually the controller?
I've seen them very close to the turbine outlet on turbo installs but Innovate's documentation says not to put it that close. I can't remember if there was a distance number listed but the idea is to place it down stream a bit so the exhaust gases aren't so hot they damage the sensor.
Maybe thats what killed yours, or is it actually the controller?
Wheelman
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn
1992 240SX SE Hatch, KA24DET.
1973 240Z, LT1, 5-speed, worked suspension.
DON'T TOUCH MY JUNK!!
Somewhere the Zebra dances
Time is the fire in which we burn