I was driving and my car just decided to die. So I pulled over and check fuel, plug blah blah. Then I checked my maf, and the car idles without the maf. The i put a multimeter to it and it reads 2.7 volts with the car off, and 3.7 volts with the car idling. Soo is there anyway to fix this?
I cleaned it with maf cleaner.
Regards
Rojo
Is there anyway to fix a maf?
Likely it has croaked - there is circuitry inside of it and it's likely that the board has gone bad. Not sure how to repair that.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
- R34SR
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throw it away, go map.
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AEM IGN1A COILS
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BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
^ Easier said than done - to the OP: going to a MAP would require a standalone ECU like Megasquirt, AEM, Haltech, etc which can be costly.R34SR wrote:throw it away, go map.
2.7v idle is a bad MAF. It will need to be replaced with a good one - sorry for the bad news!
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
- R34SR
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Yea I know, I god fedup with mafs, even reman ones would eventually die on me, just said eff it and got ms2 pnp, not sayin its feasable for everyone tho
MEGASQUIRT 2 PNP
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
- Walperstyle
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You can run both with MS but it does not make sense quite honestly especially when I am planning on throwing 25psi into my motor shortly. The MAF would blow its hat off. But I did epoxy my n62 and it held with 20psi just fine.
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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- SuperMod
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Hey you know that circular mesh type filter in the maf housing? Is that a necessity if theres going to be a filter at the end of the maf? Im trying to cut the maf down a it to make some room, I was thinking of removing the mesh and trimming away at the plastic.
Come at me bro
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Cheap;
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My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
I know on my NA '93 Altima, the mesh provides a laminar airflow that helps keep the MAF/readings happy.
I've run a 'hybrid' intake on the car for years with a KN cone filter bolted to a maf adaptor inside the airbox (to reduce heatsoak) but it required removing the mesh.
I finally ditched that setup late last year after finally realizing that it was causing my idle to fluctuate noticeably and car was going rich (after ruling out everything else over a few months and many gallons of unburned gas lol)
That's all I can say since I'm not FI currently....
I've run a 'hybrid' intake on the car for years with a KN cone filter bolted to a maf adaptor inside the airbox (to reduce heatsoak) but it required removing the mesh.
I finally ditched that setup late last year after finally realizing that it was causing my idle to fluctuate noticeably and car was going rich (after ruling out everything else over a few months and many gallons of unburned gas lol)
That's all I can say since I'm not FI currently....