Parts you will NEED:
Internally wastegated turbo, t25 or t28
Bov
Turbo manifold
Small Intercooler with piping
Downpipe
Oil pan bung
Tee fitting
Oil feed and oil drain line.
Safc 2 (this controls fuel)
Procedure:
1. Retard timing at the distributor (how-to link at the bottom)
2. Replace your exhaust manifold with your turbo manifold
3. Bolt your turbo onto your turbo manifold
4. Bolt your downpipe onto the exhaust portion of the turbo
5. Attach a filter at the end of your maf sensor, and attach the sensor onto the inlet of the turbo. Make sure the maf sensor is atleast 12inches away from the turbo inlet.
6. Mount your intercooler, and attach the piping from the turbo to the inter cooler and then to the intake manifold. You have to install your bov anywhere along the intercooler piping. Attach the vacuum hose from the bov to a vac source (diagram at the bottom).
7. Tee off your stock oil pressure sender and attach your oil feed line to the tee, and the other end to the turbo feed port.
8. Weld a bung onto your oil pan, and attach the oil drain line from your turbo oil drain port to the bung on your oil pan.
9. Start the car.
Average Build(~300-350hp)
Parts you will NEED:
Externally wastegated turbo
Wastegate
Bov
Turbo manifold
Intercooler with piping
Wideband O2 sensor
550cc or larger fuel injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump or larger
Clutch kit to hold around 350 hp
Z32 MAF
3 inch full exhaust
NGK BKR7E Spark Plugs gapped at around .031
3 inch Downpipe
Oil pan bung
Oil feed and oil drain line
Something to tune with, You can EITHER use a rom tune by enthalpy or JWT, OR use a stand alone engine management system like nistune, megasquirt, aem ems2, etc…
Procedure:
1. Replace your exhaust manifold with your turbo manifold
2. Attach your wastegate to the turbo manifold, attach the vacuum hose to the vac port on the wastegate and the other end of the hose to a vac point on the intake manifold
3. Bolt your turbo onto your turbo manifold
4. Bolt your downpipe onto the exhaust portion of the turbo
5. Attach a filter at the end of your Z32 maf sensor, and attach the sensor onto the inlet of the turbo. Make sure the maf sensor is atleast 12inches away from the turbo inlet.
6. Mount your intercooler, and attach the piping from the turbo to the inter cooler and then to the intake manifold. You have to install your bov anywhere along the intercooler piping.
7. Tee off your stock oil pressure sender and attach your oil feed line to the tee, and the other end to the turbo feed port.
8. Weld a bung onto your oil pan, and attach the oil drain line from your turbo oil drain port to the bung on your oil pan.
9. Install your wideband sensor and gauge
10. Install Fuel pump
11. Install Spark plugs
12. Install fuel injectors
13. Install clutch kit
14. If you have a tuned ecu from enthalpy or JWT, install it. Otherwise, you will need to tune your car.
15. Start your car
You might also want to consider having an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge installed as well.
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If you are looking to get more out of your car, you will have to build your bottom end to be able to handle the beating. Bottom end includes: Pistons, Piston Rings, Rods, Bearings, Head Gasket, Head Studs.
Trusted Parts Include:
Wastegates:
Most people stick with Precision or Tial
Blow off valves:
Tial, 1G DSM, Greddy, HKS, Precision, Turbonetics
Turbo:
Garrett, Borg Warner, Holset, Precision, Greddy, Turbonetics
Turbo Manifold:
Ebay Log manifolds work great for up to 350hp
RaceLab, AMS
Oil line kit:
JGS Oil lines
Intercoolers:
Ebay intercoolers work fine.
Injectors:
Deatschwerks injectors
Subaru Sti 550cc injectors
Sr20 370cc injectors
Fuel pump:
Walbro
Bosch
.
Helpful diagrams:
Basic Turbo Setup:
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Ka24de Vacuum Lines:
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Helpful Links:
Oil pan removal:
wtopic.php?t=11060&highlight=s13+oil+pan+removal
Fuel pump install
viewtopic.php?t=10417
How to build your block
viewtopic.php?t=4156
How to set ignition timing at the distributor
http://www.ka-t.org/dohc_basetiming.php
How to remove tranny/change clutch
http://forums.nicoclub.com/240sx-clutch ... 68578.html
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My Advice:
When starting a turbo project, just remember that the results will always have a direct correlation with the amount of work and money you put in. Expect to have at least 2000$ set aside for this project, if not more. You will have many hiccups, and there will be many frustrating road blocks, but don’t give up on the build.
The KEY to a reliable car, is the TUNE! I cannot stress this enough. People always ask, “do I have to tune the car, or can I just get an safc?” Believe me, the safc route is not going to allow your motor to be reliable. A rom tune only costs about 300$, so don’t blow your motor up over the 150$ extra that you could’ve dished out for a great tune.
You need QUALITY parts for your build to be reliable. The three key parts that you need to be most reliable are your wastegate, turbo, and blow off valve.
Have fun.
*Feel free to give your input.