HowTo: S14 Walbro fuel pump install

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EstoMax
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HowTo: S14 Walbro fuel pump install

Post by EstoMax »

Hey Everybody, didnt see any threads on an s14 fuel pump install (there is an s13 one on NICO but s14's get a distinctly different situation)

This writeup here should cut the install time on a fuel pump easily in half. It took me over 2 hours of screwing around and unsureness to get the job done, but in reality i could probably do it in an hour or less if i had to do it 2nd time around.

So. you order a walbro fuel pump install kit for your car, you get the parts and you get a..
Shiney pump
Piece of hose with 2 clamps
Fuel sock and lock washer
And wire with 2 crimp connectors

BEFORE First: HAVE LESS THAN HALF A TANK OF GAS!

First: assemble the fuel pump
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If you want you can reuse the stock fuel pump sock which is way bigger (i pulled the walbro one back off, you gotta use a flathead to pop the lock washer out side to side if you already put yours on, do the same thing on the stock fuel pump to remove that one)

Then you wanna put the hose on top, this part you will probably have to cut to size once you're ready to install it, i had to cut over half an inch off the top
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Ready to go out to the car, you wanna turn on the car and then pull out the fuel pump fuse, this will turn off the fuel pump and your car will run the lines dry and die.

If you're like me and your motor is out then be prepared to spill a lot of gas all over the place :lol:

Then pop off the gas cap and let all the pressure out
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Locate your fuel pump cover, I dont know why the engineers at nissan decided to put ours in the thin cubby between the trunk and the rear seats but its right here:
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Takes a 10mm wrench to pop those off and then you're in.
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At this part i found it easier to work from inside the car because i didnt have to be bent over in the trunk :P

The vacuum lines are a real PITA to pull off, but move the crimpers out of the way, put pliers around the line and twist it left and right a bit to loosen it up (dont put too much pressure or fear crimping the opening the hose is on)

Also at this point fuel may start spilling out of the lines the vacuum hoses were on (especially if your tank is full like mine) Nothing much you can do here except try to catch it on paper rags.

Next you gotta take the big locking plastic cap off the fuel pump assembly. The FSM dictates the use of a big proper size Nissan Fuel Pump Removal Wrench or something, but since i didnt have this at hand and i could turn it with my hands i got something long with a blunt end, set it on the edge of the cap and pound it with my hand, a few inches of movement will make it twistable by hand.
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Now you can pull off the cap, and set it aside a bit, the rubber grommet around it may fall in the gas tank but luckily it floats.
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Here you can see why its a good idea to have less than half a tank of gas. I filled mine up to full before pulling the motor and I barely was able to get my hand in there and get the pump out without displacing enough gas to overflow into the car.

Anyways, Here comes the messy part so i have no pics, but you put a big rubber glove on (or in my case a plastic bag) and reach in the tank. If you're inside the car you wanna put your hand towards yourself because the fuel pump is on the wall (as you follow the fuel line into the tank)and you will find it is latched. You pull that up and it should come right out of the bracket with relative ease.

Whipped out a quick sideprofile of the tank of what it feels like to me anyway.
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When the bracket is out you pull off the old pump, cut the stock wiring harness and bring the new pump and wiring harness out. The red solid wire is + (to red)and red striped is - (to black).
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On the bottom of the pump when you assemble it to the fuel pump bracket it dont forget to put on the plastic grommet to absorb vibrations from the pump.

Now read backwards and reassemble everything.

If you're like me and spilled gas all over the place leave the place open and let it dry for a while :wink:
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your input is welcome,
Thanks,
Marko
Last edited by EstoMax on Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Voltron »

Nice write up! I had a full tank when I did the install too. Gas sucks, burns your skin.

I love the 315 tires in your drawing ahahah
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Post by JGSturbo »

Nice my 255 will be here tomorrow, that info will be handy...

+1 for sticky or tech section :) Good job 8)
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Post by klattr1 »

already added :D
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Post by EstoMax »

klattr1 wrote:already added :D
woot :D
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Post by jdm538 »

what is the best way to rewire the wire haness?
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Post by 9sec240 »

If you look at the top of your factory pump you will see the terminals are labled + and - ... The black wire from the Walboro goes to the - and the red wire to the +... You will have to cut the factory wires and use the butt connectors supplied with the kit to connect the wires....

One thing to note when installing an S13 Walboro pump kiy in an S14... The fuel pump will need to be positioned correctly to orient the fuel sock in the right direction.. Please see THIS thread for information...
Ivan
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Post by JGSturbo »

9sec240 wrote:If you look at the top of your factory pump you will see the terminals are labled + and - ... The black wire from the Walboro goes to the - and the red wire to the +... You will have to cut the factory wires and use the butt connectors supplied with the kit to connect the wires....

One thing to note when installing an S13 Walboro pump kiy in an S14... The fuel pump will need to be positioned correctly to orient the fuel sock in the right direction.. Please see THIS thread for information...
Can we get the stock Nissan sock to have the same effect :?:
Its bigger too :)
I've just back flushed the socks before and not had a problem...
I guess I'll find out this weekend....

:idea:
A good idea would be to hook a small charger to the FP terminals and connect a long hose to the outlet and feed all your $ gas in to a gas can to drain it completely before you take out the pump.
BUT make sure you have ~2-3 cans if your not on E :D

And I recommend soldering all connections that way you don't end up with a dead car in the middle of nowhere (@#$% happens).
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Post by s-x addict »

has anybody ever had any problems reusing the existing sock? it doesnt' starve the pump from fuel and/or cause extra strain on the pump or anything does it?

I already installed my pump with the exisitng sock but didn't think of these things till I was tightening the bolts on the cover. :?
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Post by EstoMax »

existing sock as in the stock one?

i reused my stock one too.. it should flow more than the walbro one because its bigger and therefore has less reistance per amount of fuel..

walbro one doesnt reach far and is tiny so if anyone needs a walbro sock i got one here for ya :shock:
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Post by BillKlineVT »

I bought a walbro kit that was adapted for the s14 for mine a while back.. I think it was only one place that offered it... longer sock than the s13 one, I believe it was from a prelude or something. Haven't had any issues for the past year and a half with it.
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Post by highoctane »

Stated by asad over at freshalloy:

"The S14 setup:
Take a S13 kit, and buy an extra sock from Walbro for the late model (~'97-'98) Honda Prelude."

and BlownDET adds the part number for the Prelude install kit:
"Honda part #400-865
S14 owner's will need to order this one. "
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Post by pandas14 »

Thanks for the write-up! It just took me like 35mins.
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Post by silviaks2nr »

thanks for the write up. took me less than an hour!
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Post by SHIFT_OneOffS14 »

Great write up! Followed it to a T and my pump is now in and it runs! Thanks for the help!
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Post by cheapster757 »

mucho help! thanks! (took me about 2 hours) i suck..
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Post by TanManS14 »

So what's the verdict. I dont have a prelude sock, should I use the walbro one oriented like ivan said, or reuse the stock one?
It's always broken.
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Post by Draginzuzu »

Use the walboro one, angle it the same way as stock. Should be good to go.
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Post by TanManS14 »

Ok, cool. Thanks.
It's always broken.
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Post by Aervine »

I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem as me but don't use heat shrink tubing unless they make some kind for gasoline. Mine ballooned up and left the wire exposed and would short out on me.
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Post by TanManS14 »

Hmm. Seems to me that would equal BIG BOOM
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Post by sdzeroone »

Aervine wrote:I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem as me but don't use heat shrink tubing unless they make some kind for gasoline. Mine ballooned up and left the wire exposed and would short out on me.
Use a Hair dryer thing (the thingy women use to dry hair with) for heatsrink, or use the side of your soldering iron against the heatshrink until it's nice and snug. double layer the heatshrink if you're paranoid of sparks.

As for reusing the stock sock, use your judgement if its clean then ok, if not I recommend using the Prelude sock listed above. the tiny one included with your walbro will starve the motor on low fuel levels. make sure you buy a new cap from nissan dealership.

Tre Performance sells some good pumps and can be found on ebay & website. Identical to Walbro. www.treperformance.com
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Post by makas14 »

good write up, thanks for the info, going to do this in a few days.
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Post by LigouriRd. »

Aervine wrote:I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem as me but don't use heat shrink tubing unless they make some kind for gasoline. Mine ballooned up and left the wire exposed and would short out on me.
-I found this out last night while replacing my fuel sock with the one for '97 prelude....dang little tiny s13 style sock making my pump cavitate at a ½ tank. I too had the polyolefin heat shrink on the one wire balloon up and slide off the wire connection. Luckily I used PVC heat shrink on the other wire and it held up fine over the two years that it has been exposed to gasoline.
If you feel the need to solder your fuel pump connections use ONLY PVC HEAT SHRINK TUBING it is the slightly harder plasticy type heat shrink tubing, not the soft rubbery type of tubing.
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Post by Berserker »

I got my pump, no Foam SLeeve or Tie Wrap come with it...also i got this 2 little connectors to snap the wires together, im guessing bare wire cant be exposed in the gassoline tank with a **** load of gass? arg this is anoying well im going in to see wut i find..

Also i would like to add, i finished my manual conversion, i take out the fuel pump fuse, and the fking pump still works, cant get the car to die out, has this ever happend to any1 else?
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Post by Berserker »

Any1 got any suggestions?
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Post by EstoMax »

its fine if the leads are exposed in the gas tank. as long as they dont get very close they wont spark anything. when you connect the wires use some crimp connectors that have a long piece of insulation around them.
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Post by TanManS14 »

I've done 3 or 4 walbro installs. And i did one in my NA car. The fuel pump didnt turn on when i went to start it. Everything is hooked up correctly but there's a connector coming off of the float and i cant for the life of me figure out where it goes. Is it somewhere in the tank? I never remember even touching that on my other ones but my buddies were working on that car as well so idk what they did. Anyone?
It's always broken.
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Post by fairladyguy »

great write up just used it to fix my car, turned out my floater was just float around in the tank.
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Post by memphis »

nice write-up ! yeah always have small amount of gas when changing it... it helps a bit.
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